The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

Ancient grapes, centuries old producers, 2000-year history of wine growing, modern techniques, French identified grapes, modern architecture, that’s Italian wine today.

Le Marche in Central Italy is such a region. Still largely undiscovered by tourists and US wine drinkers, it has experienced notable improvements in quality and a great boom in organic viticulture. It’s not a region flooded with commercial tourism like its neighboring Tuscany, Umbria or even Abruzzo to the north.

Small estates like Ciù Ciù still maintain tradition emphasizing indigenous grapes like Sangiovese and Montepulciano in the reds and Verdicchio and Pecorino varieties in the whites. They also reflect a sort of “back to the future” trend throughout the region as the winery has a range of certified organic and vegan wines that feature indigenous grapes.

The result: 2014 “Gotico” Rosso Piceno Superiore ($20), a blend of 70 percent montepulciano and 30 percent sangiovese grown on the slopes of Ascoli Piceno territory. Its berry fruit is wrapped with vanilla and earthy tobacco notes and it drinks firm with chewy tannins. And the 2016 Lacrima di Morro D’Alba ($18) whose lacrima grapes are grown around the town of Morro D’Alba and vinified using modern techniques. It is closed with a recyclable synthetic cork.

And speaking of that neighbor Tuscany, the region also has been a center of innovation over the last several decades even as it preserves many of its winemaking traditions. Ever hear of a “Super Tuscan”?

Ornellaia is one of the original Super Tuscans from the Bolgheri region on the Tuscan coast, which has gained world renown over the years for Bordeaux-style blends. At $240 per bottle, it can be out of reach for many. However, its sibling, Le Volte, is an affordable alternative. Le Volte can be considered a first step into the world of Ornellaia. The 2015 Le Volte ($30), a blend of 67 percent merlot, 20 percent cabernet sauvignon and 13 percent sangiovese, was aged partly in barrels used for Ornellaia and partly in cement tanks to preserve freshness. It offers bright aromas, sweet and juicy fruit, herbs, leather and earth. It is easy to drink but still presents noticeable tannins.

Also in Bolgheri, Aia Vecchia is the winery of a family of growers for several generations who decided to bottle some of their harvest about twenty-one years ago. The winery focuses on Bordeaux varietals to produce a portfolio of small-lot, high-quality Super Tuscan blends.

The 2015 Lagone ($15), a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc shows toasty, spicy oak, with earth, yet a succulent mouthfeel, structure. It is a very good value. The 2014 “Sor Ugo” Bolgheri Superiore ($35) is more formidable. It is a Bordeaux-style blend of 50 percent cabernet sauvignon, 30 percent merlot, 15 percent cabernet franc and 5 percent petite verdot. It is broadly fruitful with a sophisticated texture accented with spice, licorice and oak.

But it was in the heart of the Chianti region in the 1970s where the Super Tuscans came into being as a reaction to what some considered rigid traditional regulations for making Chianti wine. Many of these “modern” wines are quite expensive but there was a quite affordable one in my tasting, the 2014 Brancaia “TRE” ($23), named for the winery’s three estate vineyards (Brancaia Estate, Poppi Vineyard and Brancaia in Maremma) and for the wine’s three varieties, 80 percent sangiovese, 10 percent merlot and 10 percent cabernet sauvignon. Founded by a Swiss couple thirty years ago and now own by the Gallo family, it is balanced, with bright fruit, hints of spice, tobacco and leather, soft and round.

A more recent entry into this category showed well in my tasting – the 2015 Lucente ($30). Lucente is the second wine of Luce, which was first created in 1995 through a partnership with the Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi and Robert Mondavi, and is produced from Frescobaldi’s vineyards in Montalcino. A blend of sangiovese and merlot, it has concentrated, juicy fruit, licorice and a hint of coffee. It is quite lively with tobacco, and toasty and spicy oak.

And how about the medieval hilltown of Montepulciano in southern Tuscany, not far from Siena? Best known for its famed namesake wine, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, it is one of the classic appellations for sangiovese (known locally as prugnolo gentile). And yet, two of the region’s leading producers today are only several decades old and they are building a reputation for making fine Merlot, both from vineyards in the nearby Cortona DOC, in addition to Vino Nobile.

Though its first vineyards were acquired in 1961, Poliziano winery began producing wine in the 1980s. While focused on the traditional sangiovese-based wines of Montepulciano, Poliziano becan producing a 100 percent merlot in 2006. The 2013 “In Violas” ($27) has focused fruit that is balanced broadening oak. It drinks elegant but finishes with strong tannins.

Avignonesi was established in 1974 and was purchased in 2009 by a Belgian woman who has converted the property to organic and biodynamic viticulture. The 2012 “Desiderio” ($58), which was first produced in 1988, is 85 percent merlot and 15 percent cabernet sauvignon. It is intense and concentrated, with a hint of smoky, spicy notes. It’s structured but has a luscious mouthfeel.

And in Chianti Classico itself, tradition and modernity have developed a mutually beneficial relationship. Consider Chianti Rufina, arguably the most reliable of the seven Chianti subzones after Chianti Classico and often a better value. Castello di Nipozzano, a property that dates to the 11th century and now is owned by the Frescobaldi family, has been producing wine in the Rufina subregion for 700 years. The primarily sangiovese 2015 Nipozzano Riserva ($19) follows the more traditional Tuscan winemaking approach, which is reflected in loads of cherry fruit finishing a bit of spice.

The 2013 “Vecchie Viti” Riserva (The 2013 “Vecchie Viti” Riserva ($30) is made with grapes from the oldest vines (hence the name) on the Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi’s Castello Nipozzano estate. It ironically is a tradition in the Frescobaldi family to dedicate thia wine to newborn babies. It is aromatic and drinks with elegance and brisk structure, offering bright berry fruits, herb, licorice and spice. An excellent value.

Another estate, Selvapiana has been owned by the same family for five generations but its wines show me fresh fruit and lush textures that seem more evocative of New World styles. Its 2015 Chianti Rufina ($17) offers lively cherry offset with hints of earth, a straightforward, satisfying drink. The 2013 Chianti Rufina Riserva “Bucerchiale” ($35) is much more serious and complex. A single vineyard wine produced only in the best vintages, it is fermented in stainless steel and aged in small French oak casks. Smooth with intense red fruits and savory notes, it also suggests leathery and licorice accents.

Just to the north of Tuscany, Tommasi, a 110-year old family winery based in Valpolicella in the Veneto is known for their Amarone, made using the ancient “appassimento” process. Because of the appassimento process (drying grapes to concentrate the juice) unique to Amarone production, its production yields a unique style of wine than better known red table wines. The 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico ($83) amply displays the power and opulence typical of this raisiny, complex wine. It tastes ripe and suggests sweet cherry, pepper, tobacco and mocha.

And then there is the young winery Tenuta Sant’Antonio founded in 1995 by four brothers whose family had tended vineyards in the Valpolicella area for years. Over those years, the winery has earned its reputation as a premium and progressive producer of 100 percent estate-grown, traditional Veneto DOC wines (Amarone, Ripasso, Valpolicella, and Soave, Passito, and Recioto della Valpolicella).

Being in tune with modern tastes, though, they created, Scaia a separate family estate that produces wines utilizing the traditional grapes of the area, as well as international varietals with higher acidity and bolder fruit characteristics intended to appeal to contemporary tastes. The 2013 Paradiso ($18) is a fruitful blend of corvina (60 percent), corvinone (15 percent), rondinella (15 percent) and cabernet sauvignon (10 percent). The 2014  Torre Mellotti ($15) comprised of 100% cabernet sauvignon, with half of the grapes dried for 1 month, that would rival any California Cab at that price.

In the far northeast corner of Italy, in the shadow of the Dolomites, Italy’s Alto Adige is largely known for producing crisp and aromatic white wines from a range of indigenous varietals. Red wines from the region’s native grapes, such as lagrein, are growing in recognition as well. And who better to make an enticing wine of this distinctive grape than Alois Lageder, a family owned winery with six generations of winemaking history in the region near Bolzano that has emerged as arguably the most influential producer in the region respecting traditional winemaking methods, while working to advance biodynamic farming. His 2014 Lagrein ($25) is dense and dark with spicy notes.

It has always impressed me that South America’s two best-known wine production regions – Argentina and Chile – are separated by just about 112 miles (and about one hour) by air. It’s worth noting, though, that straight line is over the majestic Andes Mountains, which is why the trip is 226 miles and 5+ hours by car.

While Argentina’s wine production is quite varied, Malbec has become its signature grape, especially those from the high altitude (roughly 3000 to 5000 feet) vineyards of Mendoza, Argentina’s most important wine region. Founded in 1902 in Mendoza, Bodeas Catena Zapata arguably is the most important winery in Argentina. They produce high quality and good value at every price level. The 2013 Catena Malbec ($24) is a beautiful wine at a fair price, with loads of fresh dark berries, spice, and mineral notes. This is precisely what makes Malbec so popular.

From the northern region of Salta, Bodega Colomédates even farther back to 1831. Owned since 2001by the Hess Family, who has several wineries in California, Coloméproduces wines in a pure, precisestyle from vineyards at 6,000 to 10,000 feet above sea level. These are the highest vineyards in the world (Colorado’srange in elevation from 4,000 to 7,000 feet). The 2014 Malbec ($25) is another dandy with fresh, floral aromatics, lively red berries, minerality, and elegant tannins.

Amalaya, the sister winery of Colomé in Salta is focused on fruit forward wines with crisp acidity. The 2016 Amalaya Malbec ($16) is a good representative for its surprisingly intense character.

Bridging the mountainous divide, the Montes family of Chile produces fine wines using biodynamic production methods. Their 2015 Kaiken Malbec Ultra “Las Rocas” ($20) offers deep forest berries, a well structured but lush texture, and spice notes.

I also was impressed with the 2013 Antigal “Uno” ($18), from a property that dates to 1897, it is well-structured and refined with concentrated fruit, spice and a creamy mouthfeel.

California’s Gallo family also has interests in two Mendoza wineries. From the 133-year-old Gascón winery, the 2015 Reserva Malbec ($25) is savory with dark berries, tobacco, and woodsy notes. The 100-year-old Alamos winery produces accessible, softer wines that still deliver lots of flavor. The 2016 Malbec ($13) is a fine everyday wine, while the 2015 SelecciónMalbec ($20) as expected is more complex and intense.

Ruca Malen by comparison is a young winery as its first harvest was 1999. But they are making fine wines like the 2014 Malbec Reserva ($19), a plump, spicy wine with toasty notes and chocolate accents. Another reliable name for good values is Bodega Argento. The 2015 Malbec ($14) and 2014 Reserva Malbec ($18) are solid choices at their price points.

Argentina also produces distinctive white wines, most notably from the torrontés grape. My favorite in my tasting was the 2016 Colomé ($15) with its great freshness, lively grapefruit, touch of bitterness, and white pepper notes. If you prefer your wines with a hint of sweetness, you will enjoy the 2016 Alamos ($13).

I also really enjoyed two torrontés blends: the 2016 Trivento “White Orchid” Reserve ($11) with 15% Pinot Grigio shows crisp, juicy citrusand tangy herbal notes. The 2016 Amalaya Blanco ($12) with 15% riesling, shows juicy, racy lime fruit, floral notes and refreshing acidity.

Finally, I was surprised at how good the 2016 Kaiken “Terroir Series” Sauvignon Blanc ($15) was. But I probably should have been given the experience the Montes family has with the grape at their signature winery in Chile.

And, speaking of that, on the other side of the Andes in Chile, you can find some of the best Sauvignon Blanc values on the planet. I was really impressed with the 2017 Montes “Spring Harvest” Sauvignon Blanc ($15). That’s right, 2017, as the grapes were harvested in March. The epitome of freshness, delightfully juicy citrus and spicy herb notes dance on the palate.

Nearly as good is the 2015 Ritual Sauvignon Blanc ($18), from a winery part of the Veramonte portfolio of producers. Ritual wines use grapes grown organically and vinified using native yeasts and low impact practices in the cellar. This wine showed some richness on the palate to accompany concentrated grapefruit, tangy acidity, and a hint of white pepper.

But Chile, like Argentina, has built its reputation on its red wines. For instance, there are countless solid, everyday Cabernet Sauvignons, like the 2016 Casillero del Diablo ($11) from Concha y Toro, Chile’s largest wine company.

Also from Concha y Toro’s stable of wineries, Viña Maipo reaches high with the 2013 “Protegido” Cabernet Sauvignon ($50), a fine, concentrated, oaky, toasty wine with firm dark fruits, classic herbal notes, and hints of chocolate.

And, as I wrote in a column earlier this year, Carmenère is making a bid for the status as Chile’s signature wine. The 2015 Montes Alpha ($22) is a fine example with red and black fruits, chocolate, minerals, and toasty oak.

Finally, Chile also has shown it can produce tasty Pinot Noir, like the 2015 Ritual ($20). While it is quite light, it shows really tasty tart red fruit and lightly herbal notes but also some freshness and a supple finish.

Blended wines are hot. I’m not sure why but consumer surveys have identified a growing trend, especially for red wine blends. So, more and more producers are proudly proclaiming their blended status in ever more prominent marketing efforts. Whether you realize it or not most wines you drink are blends – of multiple grapes from different vineyards – even the wines varietally labeled.

For many, the Bordeaux formula of blending various percentages of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, and petit verdot is the template. For others, the “Super Tuscans” of Italy are the benchmark, though usually substituting zinfandel for sangiovese. Still others take southern France as their inspiration, blending grapes like syrah, grenache, mourvedre, and petite sirah. Finally, some mix and match various grapes to achieve a desired style.

Yes, certain grapes are popular for a reason, usually something to do with distinctive aromas, flavors or overall character. But just as cultural diversity be a societal strength, so winemakers of all stripes have found varietal diversity to have unique benefits. Try any of the wines below (reviewed in order of preference within each category) and you will taste the synergy in a product that embodies the classic sentiment of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts.

Excellent

All these are variations on the classic Bordeaux-style blend. Each should improve and drink well for the next ten to fifteen years

2012 Duckhorn Howell Mountain ($95). Blending two high elevation vineyards and four of the five traditional Bordeaux varieties (dominated by cabernet sauvignon, with merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot)this wine has it all: Deep, intense, bold, ripe, dusty, firm tannins, power and richness.

2013 J. Lohr Cuvée St. E ($50). This Paso Robles beauty emulates Saint-Émilion with a majority cabernet franc, buttressed with merlot, cabernet sauvignon and malbec. It achieves layers of complexity built on a well-structured wine but soft palate.

2013 Dry Creek Vineyard The Mariner ($45). Navigating prime Dry Creek vineyards and the five Bordeaux varieties (mostly cabernet sauvignon, though), this is a really big wine with intense, dusty tannins but a lush texture.

2013 Rodney Strong Symmetry ($55). The name clues us in on this one’s goal of balancing those five Bordeaux varieties (again mostly cabernet sauvignon) creating a harmonious wine, supple yet firm, with concentrated fruit, yet elegant tannins.

Very Good

2014 Bootleg “Prequel” ($35). This one is an exception to my Bordeaux statement above in that it’s formula is 92 percent syrah and 8 percent petite sirah. From Kendall-Jackson’s Sonoma County vineyards, it is complex, spicy, silky, plush, and broad, with deep, nicely focused fruit.

2013 J. Lohr Cuvée Pau ($50). Fashioned after Pauillac, with cabernet sauvignon dominating, its inviting savory character and tight but smooth tannins are impressive.

2013 Duckhorn “The Discussion” ($135). This conversation among a majority cabernet sauvignon with merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot from the best lots of Duckhorn’s six best vineyards is rich and concentrated, with inviting oak and savory accents, though it needs time for this dialogue to resolve into a balanced conclusion. Time in the bottle will further resolve this discussion.

2013 Leviathan ($45). How about some syrah with your cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc? The addition makes for a bold, savory, earthy, brambly, tannic wine that needs a couple of years to come together.

Fine Values

These wines emphasize fresh fruit and approachable tannins making for immediate enjoyment.

2014 Purple Heart ($20). Made by a Vietnam War veteran and an Iraq War veteran and dedicated to the men and women in the military. Mostly merlot, it also happens to be a very good wine.

2013 Hess Select “Treo” Winemaker’s Red Blend ($19). At three-fifths petite sirah, syrah, and zinfandel (the rest cabernet franc and merlot) you get a ready to drink, fresh, spicy quaffer.

2015 Jamieson Ranch Whiplash ($15). With this one, petite sirah and sangiovese join malbec and cabernet sauvignon to deliver a surprisingly multifaceted, pleasantly juicy drink.

2015 Decoy Sonoma County ($25). Quite a hodgepodge here as zinfandel and petit sirah join those five Bordeaux varieties. But it works to yield an approachable but firmly structured wine.

Finally, a unique blend for your consideration. Right now, there are only a handful of bourbon-aged wines on the market. That’s right, the wine is aged in barrels once used to age whiskey. I guess if brewers can do it and if whiskey makers can use pre-owned wine barrels… Luckily, this doesn’t taste too much like whiskey, though it adds that layer to the flavor profile. The 2014 Cooper & Thief Cellarmaster Select($28) – three-fourths merlot and syrah, the rest other red blenders – offers up a deep jammy wine that, at 17 percent alcohol is assertive, big and bold but still drinks with a velvety texture, though with noticeable heat. While some critics think these wines are a stunt for the U.S. millennial market, I found this one to have a lot of appeal.

I know it’s a cliché, but I do tend to drink more white wine in the summer that any other time of year. But I also drink my share of whites throughout the year. This article suggests a tour of Europe before heading the U.S. West Coast to find just the wines for any time.

German Rieslingis my go to white wine year round but especially in warm weather. Its fresh fruit, bracing acidity and moderate 8%-10% alcohol make for a refreshing drink and a food-pairing paradise. Here are some suggestions at different price levels and different ripeness levels (though I would describe each as moderately sweet).

The 2016 Urban($15), from Nik Weiss, owner and winemaker at the celebrated estate-bottled St. Urbans-Hof in the Mosel River Valley, is a non-estate wine including grapes from vineyards owned by family friends. It centers on juicy green apple and tangerine with a racy backbone. From the Rheingau, the 2015 Schloss Vollrads Qualitätswein ($20) shows nice, ripe peach and apple, while the Kabinett ($24) offers citrus and apple with a touch of mineral. Back in the Mosel, the 2015BischöflichesScharzhofberger Spätlese ($30) is an impressive single vineyard expression showing more complexity with honeyed peach, apple and apricot.

Alsatian Gewürztraminer has always been my favorite white wine after German Riesling. I love the citrus and lychee fruit and especially the light spiciness, presented along with more body than the typical white wine. These are good introductions:

• 2013 Emile Beyer “Tradition” ($22) off-dry, honeyed citrus
• 2012 Trimbach ($26) dry with citrus, mineral, forest notes and waxy texture
• 2011 Pierre Sparr Mambourg Grand Cru ($44) pear and tangerine, creamy and succulent, firm acidity

To my delight, I also found that Italy – in its Alpine northeast – does Gewürztraminer surprisingly well. Gewürztraminer from Alto Adige tends to be more delicate and crisp than in Alsace. But high altitude vineyards with terraced slopes and gravelly soil impart an intense, refreshing character to these wines.

• 2016 Colterenzio ($15) lively and floral, quite spicy and dry, will age
• 2015 Castelfeder Vom Lehm ($19) strong acidity and mineral with honeyed citrus
• 2015 St. Michael-Eppan “Sanct Valentin” ($32) dry, complex, spicy, flavorful and textural

Two other Alto Adige whites worth seeking out are Sylvaner and Sauvignon (what we know as Sauvignon Blanc). The 2015 PacherhofSylvaner, from a grape also grown in Germany, is structured with robust acidity and earthy tropical fruits.The 2015 Tiefenbruner“Turmhof” Sauvignon leans to the fresh apple and citrus, with freshly cut grass side of the grape.

Italy’s best-known white wine import, though, certainly is Pinot Grigio. Also from northeastern regions, Pinot Grigio can be produced in a variety of styles but the generally light, brisk melon and citrus notes have been a winning combination with consumers.

• 2015 Luna Nuda Alto Adige($15), crisp, lean and mineral edged
• 2016 Ecco Domani Delle Venezie ($12) bright, fresh style ideal aperitivo
• 2016Cantina Riff Delle Venezie($10) from Alois Lageder, bracing and flavorful
• 2015 Tommasi “La Rosse” Delle Venezie ($17) a single vineyard wine in a somewhat richer style

Italy is a distinctive source of diverse grape varieties. There are many mostly regional-focused, small production wines well worth seeking out. Following are just a few.

Soave from the Veneto may be the largest production white wine in Italy and most of it is insipid and uninteresting. But in the hands of an attentive winery like Pieropan(2016 Soave Classico, $20) it can be delightfully aromatic and mouthfilling. In Piemonte, Viettihas led a resurrection of the arneis grape from obscurity and we benefit with wines like Vietti’s floral, briny 2016 Arneis ($24).

If your adventurous (and even if you are not) I suggest you try these rare varietal wines from other Italian regions. First up is the pecorino variety indigenous to central Italy. The 2015 Ciù Ciù“Merlettaie” ($18) is from the still largely undiscovered region Le Marche. It is a fine example of the region’s boom in organic viticulture, offering a nice balance between quality, tradition and price. The 2016 Niro($18) comes from neighboring Abruzzo and is a bit fuller bodied yet well balanced with refreshing tropical fruit and herbal notes.

Vermentino is another rather rare variety, grown mostly on the island of Sardegna (Sardinia). The 2015 Olianas($15)is a worthy proponent, with bright citrus, a toasty note and lightly spicy. The 2016 Cecchi“La Morra” ($20) by the well-regarded Chianti estate supplies nice floral and savory stone fruit from Tuscany.

And if you want a really unique wine, try the 2015 Li Veli Verdeca ($18),the fruition of a special Le Veli project to revitalize ancient grapes of the region of Puglia (in the heel of the boot). Here, the verdeca is blended with fiano minutolo to produce tropical fruit notes that mingle with fresh spices and pear.

On to Spain, where the region of Rias Baixas in Galicia just north of the border with Portugal, has been making waves withalbariño. If you like Sauvignon Blanc but not the herbaceousness so much, you’ll love the bracing citrus and savory qualities of albariño.Here are five fine ones for you I’ve listed in order of preference:

• 2016 Pazo Señorans ($20)
• 2016 Fillaboa ($20)
• 2015 Gran Vinum “Nessa” ($17)
• 2015 Eidosela “Néboa”($15)
• 2015 Lagar de Bouza ($15)

Verdejo from Rueda, an area neighboring the esteemed Ribera del Duero, may be the best kept secret in the wine world coming from Spain. Another grape whose wine has been compared to Sauvignon Blanc and sometimes Pinot Grigio, it is typically lighter with pear, citrus and pleasantly bitter qualities. Two good examples are the 2014 Beronia($14) and 2016 Vega de la Reina($14).

Finally our last stop in Europe, Hungarian Furmint is making a bid for consumer attention. Furmint is the main grape in Hungary’s famous dessert wine, Tokaji but increasingly producers are making dry versions. The 2015 Oremus“Mandolás”($25) is fresh and crisp but oaky with textural richness. Oremus was established in 1993 by Vega Sicilia, Spain’s most iconic wine estate.I also enjoyed its lightly spicy character.The 2015 Patricius($16), whose origins date to the 18^thcentury, is driven by minerality and complex stone fruit flavors.

Now, on to the American the West Coast; I have a variety of “alternative” whites for you to try.

Pinot Gris/Grigio has grown in popularity in recent years. I prefer the drier, more full flavored style, usually labeled Pinot Gris. Here are four 2016 favorites listed in order of preference:

• Nine Hats “Benches Vineyard” ($15) Washington
• Left Coast Cellars “The Orchard Vineyard” ($18) Oregon
• J Vineyards ($20) California
• Cline ($13) Sonoma Coast

But you are missing out on a lot of good wine, if you drink only the most popular varieties. There are interesting wines all over the state.

In Edna Valley, Ninermakes an intense 2016 AlbariñoJesperson Ranch ($20) and Zockerproduces a savory 2014 GrünerVeltliner Paragon Vineyard ($20). By the way, if you must have one of those light, fruity Pinot Grigios, Edna Valley Vineyards (2016, $14) makes a nice one.

From Napa Valley, Priest Ranchoffers a delightful, stony Grenache Blanc(2016,$22). For 45 years, Dry Creek Vineyardhas made a highly regarded Loire Valley style Dry Chenin Blanc (2016, $15) from vineyards near Clarksburg.

If you are one of those consumers I have read about who is showing more interest in blends, check out the 2014 Conundrum($25), a juicy, aromatic mélange. Another good one is the rich, honeyed 2014 Murrieta’s Well“The Whip” ($24) from Livermore Valley.

Finally, I was especially impressed with the 2014 Buty($25) labeled simply “60% Semillon, 22% Sauvignon, 18% Muscadelle” from Washington’s Columbia Valley. And from Oregon, I enjoyed the light cherry notes of the 2016 Left CoastWhite Pinot Noir ($24).

With all these intriguing wines to try, you should have a white wine available for any occasion.

Finally. Finally, Rosé is coming into its own with the American consumer. This easy drinking, refreshing, yet flavorful style of wine finally seems to be gaining the appreciation in this country it deserves.

And wineries have responded. Wine industry publications are reporting double digit growth in the category and even triple digit growth in some price ranges. I have received significantly more pink wine samples this year than any previous year. So much so that I have reserved a report on imported Rosé’s for a future column.

I have been touting the pleasures of dry rosé for years. So, I am gratified it is finally getting its due.

There are essentially three ways to make a pink wine. The most common method is to press red grapes and leave the juice in contact with the grape skins (the source of a wine’s color) only briefly. The second technique is a process called saignée, a by-product of red-wine making in which a certain amount of juice is “bled off” shortly after red grapes are crushed. The third approach involves blending white and red wines to the desired effect.

Note this column focuses on dry rosés, not the sweet “blush” wines that have been popular for years. Expect bright, fresh fruit aromas and flavors of strawberry, cherry, raspberry, cranberry or even watermelon. The best display fresh fruit aromas and flavors that approximate the profile of their red siblings but drink more like white wines. Because of their vibrant freshness and lively fruit, pink wines are almost always best drunk young, so look for the most recent vintages available.

While these wines are ideal for enjoying on their own, they also are quite versatile, making nice accompaniments for vegetable dishes, light fish and seafood, charcuterie, sandwiches and salads.

First, I will cover American rosés. As far as the grapes used, Rhône varieties like syrah, grenache and mourvèdre are popular but so is pinot noir, zinfandel and sangiovese. My tasting (all wines from 2016) was dominated by pinot noir (a surprise to me).

Here were my favorite Pinot Noir Rosés:

• Clos du Val Carneros ($30) the most expensive of the tasting but it delivers
• Stoller Dundee Hills ($25) pretty, high toned fruit
• Martin Ray Russian River Valley ($20) savory and creamy
• Barrymore Monterey County ($18) plush and spicy
• La Crema Monterey ($20) soft, hints of cream and spice
• Cambria Santa Maria Valley ($25) juicy with cinnamon
• Meiomi ($25) watermelon, lime and minerals
• Angeline ($13) attractive citrus and succulent palate

And for Rhône fans: Halter Ranch Paso Robles ($21) 2/3 grenache, zesty, spicy

Plus two very good pinot noir and syrah blends:

• Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($17) delicate apple and watermelon
• Decoy ($20) creamy and spicy

And a longtime Zinfandel favorite: Pedroncelli Dry Creek Valley Signature Selection ($15) easygoing with cinnamon

Three every day values:

• Sterling Vintner’s Collection ($14) syrah, tempranillo, zinfandel
• Dark Horse ($9) 40% grenache, 20 barbera, 20 tempranillo, 20 pinot gris
• Apothic Limited Release ($9) tempranillo and grenache

Of course, rosé has been a popular drink throughout the rest of the world for a long time. The world of rosé is incredibly diverse, with many varieties and many styles. Explore this diversity on a journey around the world with the wines below.

France clearly is the leader with a dizzying array of Rosés from all over the country (including Alsace, Loire, Champagne and Bordeaux) but most notably the Mediterranean south – Rhône Valley, Provence, and Languedoc-Roussillon. Provence wines probably are the best known. And sales show it with a nearly 7300% increase in exports to the U.S. from 2001 to 2016, based on numbers from the Wines of Provence Council.

Rosés from Côtes de Provence dominated my recent tastings. Characterized by extremely light salmon color and generally dominated by grenache with additions of syrah and cinsault and sometimes a touch of mourvèdre or carignan. I noticed a characteristic flavor profile of delicate red berries and occasionally watermelon and citrus, juicy freshness and a hint of creaminess.

• 2015 ChâteauD’Esclans “Rock Angel” ($35) a historic estate now owned by a Bordeaux native
• 2016 M de Minuty ($19)an 18^thcentury estate using sustainable methods
• 2015 Domaine de la Sangliere ($19) an estate whose production is 80% rosé
• 2015 Domaine Sainte Marie “Vie Vite” ($18) a 17^thcentury estate with 80 year old vines
• 2015 Hecht & Bannier ($18) a boutique negociant based in Aix-en-Provence
• 2016 Fleur de Mel ($18) a cooperative near Saint Tropez

Rhône Valley Rosés, similarly based primarily on grenache, syrah, and cinsault, tend to be richer in color offering more intensity and robust character. The 2016 E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone ($15), from a topRhône producer,and 2016 Chateau de Campuget Costières de Nimes “Tradition” ($10), from a property that dates back to 1640, are fine choices.

From Roussillon, another Rhône Valley powerhouse – Michel Chapoutier – produced the 2016 Les Vignes de Bila-Haut ($15) citrus

Keeping with the Mediterranean theme, Italians, Spanish and Portuguese also love dry rosé. In Italy, as in France, many regions have their own style. One of my favorites from my tastings comes from Puglia in the heel of the boot. From a cooperative established in 1962, the 100% primitivo grape 2016 Cantine San Marzano “Tramari” ($17) is a ripe, juicy drink.

Another favorite is Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, a typically more structured rosé made with montepulciano, the main grape of Abruzzo. The nonvintage Villa Gemma is a must try example. And from Tuscany, the famous Frescobaldi familyproduced the delightful 2015 Tenuta dell’ Ammiraglia “Alie” ($18) using syrah (not the local sangiovese) and vermentino.

Spain wasn’t represented in my tastings but there was a super value from Portugal. The 2015 Esporao Alandra ($8), primarily aragonez (the Portuguese version of tempranillo), is amazingly concentrated, fresh and spicy for its price.

Our planet’s southern hemisphere also was ably represented:

• New Zealand, which produces delicate Pinot Noir Rosés like the 2016 Wither Hills Marlborough ($14)
• South Africa and the 2016 Mulderbosch Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon
• Chile and the 2016 Casillero del Diablo Rosé ($11) primarily syrah, with cinsault and carmenere

With the blistering weather, it’s natural for wine drinkers to think about cooling off with a refreshing white wine. While most U.S. consumers still turn first to Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc is an ideal alternative.

Sauvignon Blanc’s flavor profile comes in several styles. Generally expect brisk green citrus (lime, gooseberry) but also other citrus, especially grapefruit and a distinctive herbaceousness. Some also are evocative of fresh cut hay or oats. Occasionally, a sample is reminiscent of peach, melon or even tropical fruits. It’s typically quite aromatic, with refreshing acidity. These qualities make it an exceptional accompaniment to food, especially the lighter foods of summer.

It has a noble heritage as a parent (with cabernet franc) of cabernet sauvignon. It is responsible for the Loire Valley wines of Sancerre and Pouilly Fume and, with semillon, the white Bordeaux of Graves and Sauternes. The grape also has found hospitable surroundings in New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and Chile. Here I focus on California.

Most of the wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel to emphasize varietal characteristics, while some use small amounts of mostly neutral oak to round out flavors and texture. Somewhat of a surprise to me, I found a large number of wines worthy of recommendation.

There are a number of good everyday values at $20 and under. These tend to be lighter with the focus on varietal fruit. Think of them as everyday patio sippers. Choose among (listed in order of price):

• 2015 Kendal-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($13) succulent lemongrass
• 2016 Dry Creek Vineyard Sonoma County Fume ($14) pleasantly bitter, like tonic water
• 2015 Benziger North Coast ($15) brisk minerality
• 2016 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($15) crisp herbal
• 2015 Tom Gore ($15) lively grassy
• 2015 Kunde Magnolia Lane ($17) peach, melon
• 2016 Hanna Russian River Valley ($20) brisk, fruit forward
• 2016 Charles Krug St. Helena-Napa Valley ($18) gentle, herbal
• 2016 Martin Ray Russian River Valley ($20) lush citrus/tropical blend
• 2016 Decoy Sonoma County ($20) melon, herbal, soft
• 2016 Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Creek Valley ($20) tropical lemongrass

As consumer friendly as these wines are, I found more complexity and flavor interest as prices escalated. The wines below are listed in order of price.

• 2016 Star Lane “Happy Canyon” Santa Barbara ($22) gooseberry, herbs
• 2015 Cadaretta “sbs” Columbia Valley ($23) with 20 percent semillon, steely minerally, melon
• 2016 Cliff Lede Napa Valley ($25) rounded, juicy melon, lemongrass, fig
• 2016 Clif Family RTE Blanc ($28) expressive persistent melon, peach,fig
• 2016 Ladera Napa Valley ($30) touch of oak, piney note 2016
• 2015 Galerie “Naissance” Napa Valley ($30) delicate, lychee, stone, citrus
• 2016 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($30) lush oak, licorice, melon, fig
• 2016 Clos du Val Napa Valley ($30) brisk, green fruits, mineral
• 2015 Stonestreet Alexander Valley Estate ($35) complex grassy, lemon citrus

Finally, here are two wines with prices in the stratosphere but plenty of intrigue to tempt consumers to open their wallet.

The 2014 Chimney Rock “Elevage” ($48) features a unique blend of sauvignon blanc and sauvignon gris, which is variously described as a clone, cousin or genetic variant of sauvignon blanc.

Occupying rarified air for Sauvignon Blanc is the 2014Michael Mondavi Family “Animo” Heritage ($65). The inaugural vintage of this wine sources fruit from a special cutting of what are believed to be the oldest sauvignon blanc vines in North America. The wine finds balance between vibrant peach and citrus fruit and firm acidity with a fairly austere finish.

Every winemaker says they believe “wine is made in the vineyard.” They talk about terroir and vineyard expression. But that expression ultimately depends on decisions made by the winemaker in the cellar. Whether they admit it or not, winemakers generally try to achieve a certain style. California Cabernet Sauvignon is a good example.

I have tasted over 60 Cabernets in the last year and recommend the following (listed in order of preference within each category) as exemplars of their styles.

Especially from the Napa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon has become a phenomenon in recent decades with a general style that emphasizes richness and concentration. While there are variations on the theme (and whether the wine is blended from multiple sources or a single vineyard), the style is recognizable in pronounced fruit, lavish oak (much of it new), full body, and supple texture. Ideally, all this results in a wine enticing to drink now but that can be aged and enjoyed for years.

2013 Galerie “pleinair” Napa Valley ($50) pure, ripe fruit, charmingly soft mouthfeel and tannins

2014 Jamieson Ranch “Double Lariat” Limited Production ($55)sweet fruit, plush tannins buttressed with refreshing acidity

2014 Clos du Val Hirondelle Vineyard ($120) deep fruit and moderate tannin come together in a seamless whole

2013 Clif Family “Kit’s Killer Cab” ($75) rich, concentrated, focused

2013 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($50) full-bodied, intense, balanced with lively structure and firm tannins

2013 Martin Ray “Synthesis” Napa Valley ($50) firm and full, yet lavish, lithe and well-proportioned

2013 Freemark Abbey Rutherford ($70) large-scaled, full-bodied, dense, solid tannins, bright acidity

2014 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($75) complex, balanced, immediately appealing

2013 Dry Creek Vineyard “Endeavour” ($70) serious, bountiful, concentrated, solidly structured (from Dry Creek Valley but fits the Napa style)

2013 Fortress Knights Reserve ($40) bold fruit, elegant palate, noticeable oak (from Knights Valley in Sonoma but fits the Napa style)

But not everyone has jumped on the bandwagon. For a style contrast look to what generally is described as an Old World (meaning typical Bordeaux) style. There is less emphasis on opulent fruit, more on lively acidity and firm structure. This is still California, so there is a sense of fresh fruit but balanced with earthy and dried herb notes.

2013 Grgich Hills Napa Valley Estate Grown ($69) firm, fresh tannins, tight core of pure fruit, certified organic

2013 Jordan Alexander Valley ($55) refined, silky, savory throughout

2013 Chimney Rock Stags Leap District Estate Grown ($85) elegant, yet structured, full-bodied, strong tannins

2014 J. Lohr Hilltop Vineyard Paso Robles ($35) medium-bodied, dense flavors, balances vibrant acidity with soft texture

2014 Stonestreet ($45) herbal and forest notes, deep flavors, solid tannins

Many wineries try to strike a balance between the two styles. They combine the ripeness of California fruit with the nuances of Bordeaux. Neither the fruit nor the oak hit you over the head. Instead, they join together to caress your palate.

2014 Michael Mondavi Family “Animo” Atlas Peak($85) concentrated, full, muscular tannins but manages a graceful palate

2014 Chateau Montelena Napa Valley ($58) lots of fruit buttressed with a lively energy, powerful but with a sense of elegance

2014 Michael Mondavi Family “Emblem” Napa Valley ($35) deep, juicy fruit, lush texture (merlot, petit verdot, syrah, zinfandel and petite sirah comprise 20 percent of the wine)

2013 Rodney Strong Reserve ($40) full-bodied, fresh fruit, supple tannins

2014 Clos du Val Estate ($52) medium body, intense fruit but precise texture, delicate tannins

Don’t forget that many fine Cabernet Sauvignons are produced in the state of Washington. Here are two fine Washington Cabernet Sauvignons you really should take the time to track down.

2012 Cadaretta Columbia Valley ($50) a really fine, balancedblend of 89% cabernet sauvignon, 6% petit verdot and 5% merlot; ripe dark fruits, toasty oak, a full body and refined palate

2014 Canvasback Red Mountain ($40) another excellent wine ofdark fruits and complex earthy and light spice notes with alush, full palate and firm tannins

I know some of you will be asking, “what about wines under $10?” Well, every one I tasted in the past year just didn’t make the cut. It is disappointing that solid quality is getting harder to find for less than $20 a bottle. But I did find a few good ones just under $20 and a few more just over $20 (you might find them on sale for less than $20). Here are several solid values for everyday drinking.

2014 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Sonoma County ($24) silky, easy drinking, with firm black fruits and herbal touches

2014 Dry Creek Vineyard “Hillside & Benchland” ($26) well-balanced with blackberry, a touch of mint and fresh tannins

2014 J.Lohr Seven Oaks ($17) lush fruit, velvety tannins

2014 Castoro Cellars Paso Robles Estate Grown ($16) fresh berries and hints of spice are straightforwardly flavorful

So, I have written before about white and rosé wines for summer sipping to beat the heat but it occurred to me we shouldn’t forget completely about red wines. I still crave the character of red wine but in this case it’s usually the types of reds that can be enjoyed chilled.

First, a few clarifications: by chilled, I mean 50-55°F, a little warmer than the typical white wine. Choose young, ready-to-drink wines with higher acidity, softer tannins, moderate alcohol,andlittle or no oak to bring the refreshing, primary fruit flavors to the forefront. And expect prices $20 and under.

Given these criteria, there are many options from just about every wine region. Some examples: garnacha/grenache (Spain/southern France), gamay (Beaujolais), cabernet franc (Loire Valley), lemberger (Austria), pinot noir (New Zealand), pinotage (South Africa), and malbec (Argentina).

As I searched through my sample notes, though, I realized that Italy is especially deft at this. So, in this column, that’s where I focus. Chianti, a wine with many affordable and elegant styles, is a good place to start, especially basic Chianti and Chianti Classico. Mostly sangiovese, these wines meet all the criteria listed above. They are fresh and tangy with cherry and forest-like notes, and sometimes white pepper and a hint of star anise.

• 2015 Badia a Coltibuono “Cetamura” Chianti ($11) Cetamura is the name of an Etruscan settlement on the Coltibuono property. This entry level Chianti is typically fresh, accessible and ideal for daily drinking.
• 2015 Castello del Trebbio Chianti Superiore ($15) Sporting a 12^thcentury castle on a historic estate in the Chianti Rufina district, this wine is offers nicely balances earthy and fresh fruit nuances.
• 2014 Selvapiana Chianti Rufina ($17) With a history dating to medieval times, this organic winery, which has been in the same family for nearly 200 years, has produced a juicy wine, with intriguing minty and woodsy notes.
• 2013 Castello di Albola Chianti Classico ($19) This property located near Radda has passed has passed through noble hands for about a thousand years. Today it is owned by the Zonin family and is consistently one of Chianti’s best values.
• 2014 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico ($20) From this 11th century “Abbey of the Good Harvest” estate vineyards near Gaiole, grapes are organically grown and vinified using natural yeast.

North of Tuscany in the Veneto region, corvina (usually combined with other local grapes) is used to make the ultra-light Bardolino and the more characterful Valplicella. The Alpine region of Alto Adige, best known for distinctive whites, also sources light, fresh reds.

• 2014 Tommasi “Rafaèl” Valpolicella Classico Superiore ($19) This wine is a bit of an exception to my rule, as it is aged 12 months in large oak casks. However, use of these neutral containers results in a fresh but elegant wine with aromas of dried spices and leather.
• 2015 Scaia Corvina ($12) A special Veneto project by Tenuta Sant’ Antonio, this 100 percent corvina wine is brisk and bold.
• 2016 Castel Sallegg Bischofsleiten ($14) From the Alto Adige/Südtirol in view of the Italian Alps, this single vineyard wine is 100 percent schiava, an indigenous grape that is a signature of the region. It is typically light bodied, low in tannins and effusively fruity.
• 2015 Peter Zemmer Pinot Noir ($18) Also from Alto Adige, this is soft, flavorful and elegant.

And from the south, three wines from Masseria Le Veli in Puglia (the heel of the boot) are ideal choices. Established in 1999 on a property in the province of Salento originally founded by a prestigious Italian economist at the beginning of the twentieth century, the wines are made from certified organic native varieties.

• 2015 “Contrade” Negroamaro ($10). Li Veli’s second label, produced in collaboration with select local grape growers, shows surprisingelegance, structure.
• 2015 “Orion” Salento ($13) From one of the primary grapes of the region, this 100 percent primitivo (a relative of zinfandel) is exuberant and lightly spicy.
• 2014 “Passamante” Salice Salentino ($13) features the region’s other principal grape, negroamaro. Spicy and characterful, it’s a lot of wine for the money.

Finally, two wines from either end of the boot.

• Lambrusco from Emilia-Romagna – not the cheap, sweet sparkling wine but the refreshing, juicy and balanced one from a caring producer like Cleto Chiarli, whose nonvintage Vecchia Modena Premium ($15) will cool even the warmest summer days.
• Etna Rosso from the slopes of Mount EtnainSicily – the 2014 Alta Mora ($24) from just beyond the toe of the boot and produced by the Cusamano family, is a fresh but velvetynerello mascalese.