The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

With winter’s cold settling in, I find myself craving heartier foods and heartier wines to accompany them. If you are looking for full flavored wines, too, especially ones that provide a lot of wine for the money, consider Petite Sirah and Syrah.

Until the last decade or so petite sirah was a largely unknown grape, used mostly for blending. Now, DNA testing has proven that the vast majority of what has been known by that name in California is actually durif, a variety that was propagated in the south of France in the 1880s by crossing the noble Rhone variety syrah and the obscure grape peloursin.

But the grape thrives in California. It often has been commented that there is nothing petite about Petite Sirah wines. While they often display a flavor profile similar to their parent syrah – dark berries, tobacco, leather, earth, mineral and pepper, with an ability to age well, they typically are wines of deep color, dense structure, rustic body and agibility.

A good introduction to the style is the 2013 Chronic Cellars “Suite Petite” ($15) with its big, brash fruit. Josh and Jake Beckett, whose parents own Peachy Canyon in Paso Robles, created this wine company focused on casual wines in 2008. And this wine delivers.

More serious is the 2013 Parducci “True Grit” Reserve ($30). In Mendocino County since 1932, Parducci was an early adopter of petite sirah and True Grit is their flagship wine. This vintage is meaty and woodsy with plenty of rustic tannins suggesting it’s best to let it evolve for a few years before enjoying.

Another pioneer of modern winemaking in Mendocino, Edmeades is best known for its Zinfandels. But their admirable 2012 Mendocino County Petite Sirah ($35) shows smoky, concentrated aromas and bright, spicy fruit, while a lush texture balances the initially tough tannins.

Since its establishment in 2005, Fulcrum Wines has distinguished itself as a Pinot Noir specialist. As the name Fulcrum indicates, the stated goal for the wines is balance, a quality that is a challenge to achieve with Petite Sirah. But, even while petite sirah is unusual for the pinot noir and chardonnay dominated Russian River Valley, Fulcrum has pulled it off with the 2012 “Landy Vineyard” ($45). Its ripe fruit is balanced with firm acidity, while its lush texture reveals ample tannins. It should gain complexity with time.

Syrah is widely recognized as one of the world’s great red wine grapes. At its best, its wines provide great concentration, complexity and elegance, with characteristic pepper, meat, and leather accents and an ability to develop for many years. Even a lower priced syrah will deliver forward fruit and a smooth texture that is just right for everyday drinking.

The 2013 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” Santa Barbara County ($17) is a good example of a value drive syrah. It has notes of resin, smoke and earth balanced with solid fruit, while its solid structure is presented seamlessly.

Bob Lindquist founded Qupé Winery in 1982 with a name to honor the Chumash, the indigenous people of the California’s Central Coast and Channel Islands. His 2012 Qupé Santa Barbara County Syrah ($30) is admirably suggestive of a French Rhone’s bold textural qualities. It is deep and spicy but also savory and elegant with a solid structure.

Finally, here’s a fantastic syrah-dominated blend from Washington: the 2012 Buty Walla Walla Valley “Rediviva of the Stones” Rockgarden Estate ($60). Buty Winery is the fifteen-year-old project of Nina Buty that has quickly taken a place among the state’s best. A blend of 78% syrah, 13% cabernet sauvignon and 9% mourvedre, this wine entices with its intense aromatics and flavors that deftly blend fruit and savory elements into a wine of lively elegance, yet enough structure to improve over the next ten years.

So, whether it is “sirah” or “syrah,” these substantial reds are ideal candidates for you’re your winter meals.

One of my favorite things about the holiday season is it provides prime opportunities to open special bottles of wine. And what makes a special occasion even more special? For many people, it’s a bottle of sparkling wine. Whether for parties, toasts, or even better a holiday meal, the holidays are prime time for indulging a bit if bubbly.

Of course, Champagne gets most of the buzz but effervescent wine is so popular, there are versions made in virtually every wine region. This column focuses on these other effervescent wines.

There is a lot of good French sparkling wine beyond Champagne (designated Crémant) and most are made using the “Methode Champenoise” (the Champagne Method where the second fermentation occurs in the bottle) but still much more affordable.

Crémant d’Alsace is one of the best of these. It typically is light and fruity but offers a nice measure of complexity. I found two Brut Rosés from two of the most important Crémant producers in Alsace, both 100% pinot noir. The Lucien Albrecht ($22) offers a crisp taste of strawberry and has finesse. The Pierre Sparr ($19) has fresh aromas of soft red berries and delicate, fruity flavors and lively acidity.

Crémant de Limoux comes from vineyards surrounding the town of Limoux in the Languedoc-Rousillon region, which lays claim to producing sparkling wine by a second fermentation in the bottle long before Champagne. Domaines Paul Mas “Cote Mas” Brut ($16), a blend of 60% chardonnay, 20% chenin blanc, 10% pinot noir and 10% mauzac, has enticing flowery, citrus and toast on the nose and pleasant pear, apple and lemon flavors.

Spanish Cava, also is produced by the traditional method. Long an affordable alternative to Champagne, it uses indigenous grapes (macabeo, xarel-lo, parellada) grown in the Penedès Valley in Catalonia not far from Barcelona.

Two of the most reliable producers are Codorníu and Paul Cheneau. Anna de Codorníu Brut ($15) celebrates the life of Codorníu’s last heiress. It was the first Cava to use chardonnay in its cuvee, 70 percent in this release that reveals some richness with a solid structure and a creamy texture. The Paul Cheneau Brut ($14) suggests a French influence with a creamy elegance and structure.

One of the best California sparkling wine producers, Gloria Ferrer, actually has a Spanish connection:it was founded by owners of Freixenet, the world’s largest producer of Methode Champenoise. Its impressive line of sparklers includes the Sonoma Brut ($22) is dominated by pinot noir with a touch of chardonnay. It best reflects the house style of fresh white fruits and mildly toasty elements delivered with a delicate, sleek texture. As a contrast, the Blanc de Blancs ($22) is all chardonnay. It’s crisp with citrus, apple and creamy vanilla. The Blanc de Noirs ($22) tantalizes with sweet sensations of pretty red fruits. Then presents a luscious palate that finishes with zest. Finally, the 2007 Royal Cuvée Brut Late Disgorged ($37) composed of 2/3 pinot noir and 1/3 chardonnay is the peak of Gloria Ferrer production. Apple, citrus, cherry, and vanilla make delightful appearances with a rich, creamy texture and a crisp finish.

Prosecco, from the hills north of Venice around the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, is made predominantly using the native glera grape using the Charmat Method. The bubbles are produced in large stainless steel tanks to preserve glera’s fresh aromas and clean, delicate fruit. Prosecco. With its soft bubbles and low alcohol it makes a great aperitif, probably why it is the traditional base for the famous Venetian cocktail, the Bellini.

One of its premier producers boasting a tradition in the area to 1542, is Bisol whose Desidero JEIO Brut ($17) shows delightful fresh apple, apricot and citrus. A real treat, the 2014 Crede Brut ($25) is an impressive single vineyard selection with a delicate mousse but intense fruit.

Other fine Prosecco worth seeking out: Mionetto Brut Treviso ($15) is a bit floral, with intense, fresh fruit; Mionetto Gran Rose Extra Dry ($15) is a fun alternative with red currant and pomegranate; Villa Sandi ($) produces another fine Prosecco from Treviso with ripe apple; Valdo Brut “Oro Puro” ($20) offers a fresh, lively style with evidence of greater complexity and fuller flavors.

With all its holidays and the associated parties and family gatherings, December may be the biggest month of the year for adventurous wine drinking opportunities. This also presents challenges deciding what (and what you can afford) to drink. Not to worry; I’m here to help.

For white wines, I prefer crisp, fruity, fragrant and food friendly. For reasonable prices, these wines also provide a refreshing combination of acidity and moderate alcohol.

Riesling, with its enticing aromatics, bracing acidity and apple, citrus and stone fruit flavors, is one of my favorite choices this time of year. One of Germany’s best, Dr. Loosen offers entry-level Rieslings produced with grapes from contracted growers. The 2012 Dr. L Dry ($14) is crisp and refreshing; the 2012 Dr. L ($14) is off dry, light and pleasantly fruity.

Pinot Gris, with fresh citrus, melon and more weight, provides a different drinking experience. The fruit forward, brisk and easygoing 2014 Willamette Valley Vineyards ($16) and the impressively rich and complex 2014 Raptor Ridge ($20) prove why this grape has emerged as the premier white wine of Oregon.

Another fun choice would be crisp, dry Alsatian versions of these grapes, like these from Hugel, a family owned company since 1639! The 2013 Riesling ($12) is aromatic and refreshing; the 2012 Pinot Gris “Classic” ($24) is a special selection revealing impressive weight and enticing nutty qualities. Also, check out the spicy lychee of the 2012 Gewürztraminer ($24) and the 2014 “Gentil,” a delicate but aromatic blend.

Sauvignon Blanc typically sports zesty white and green fruits (often grapefruit or gooseberry) and distinctive herbaceousness that pairs with multiple foods. The 2014 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($13) is notable for its lush texture. The 2104 Avant ($13) is lighter and fresher with more forward fruit.

Chardonnay continues to be the most popular wine among American consumers. So, expecting many of you will be looking for modestly priced but still flavorful Chardonnays, I suggest the juicy apple and light cream of 2013 Talbott “Kali Hart” ($20), the toasty, delicate apple of 2013 Old Soul ($14), and the brisk citrus of 2013 La Merika ($13).

Diversity is the message of the season for red wines, too. While I drink mostly full-bodied wines during cold weather months, I still find a place for light reds, especially when faced with a wide variety of foods to match. The 2014 Willamette Valley Vineyards “Whole Cluster” ($22) uses whole cluster fermentation of pinot noir to promote freshness and fruit. Light but still flavorful, the 2014 Balletto Rose of Pinot Noir ($18) shows delightfully crisp strawberry notes.

Zinfandel is always a good choice this time of year. Its brash red fruit and peppery accents compliment many foods. The 2013 Renwood Premier Old Vine ($20) reflects hefty, dense Amador fruit. The 2013 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($17) bursts with bright, fresh Mendocino berries. And two: 2013 OZV “Old Vine” ($11) and 2012 Concrete ($20) reveal jammy Lodi fruit.

Cabernet Sauvignon is the most popular red wine in America, second overall only to Chardonnay. These will satisfy your craving: 2013 Joel Gott “815” ($18) for its luscious red fruit, 2013 Decoy ($25) for its intense fruit and lush texture, and 2013 Our Daily Cab ($11) for its fresh tasting organic fruit (also vegan, gluten free and no added sulfites).

Finally, a multi-varietal red blend can be a fun alternative for any occasion. Different aromas and flavors from different grapes come together to make a whole that is better than the sum of its parts. I like these two from Chronic Cellars (by brothers Jake and Josh Beckett who worked for their family’s Peachy Canyon Winery). The 2014 Purple Paradise ($15) shows lots of nice juicy red fruits from zinfandel, syrah, petite sirah and grenache. The 2013 Dead Nuts ($24) bursts with berry flavors thanks to zinfandel, tempranillo and petite sirah. Also delightful is the 2013 Charles & Charles “Post No. 35” ($12), a voluptuous blend of cabernet sauvignon and syrah.

When it comes to American wine, most of us tend to think of California. Certainly, California wine dominates production and store shelves. But we would be remiss if we did not seek out wines from other states. In this case, I’m thinking of Washington, the second largest wine producing state in the nation.

It’s amazing, in 1996 there were 80 wineries; today there are over 850. But more important has been the dramatic increase in quality. Here I have assembled just a few examples to hopefully encourage you to embark on your own exploration.

Buty Winery, the fifteen year old project of Nina Buty, has quickly taken a place among the state’s best. Notable for its commitment to a natural winemaking, Buty also focuses on crafting innovative blends. Such as the 2010 “Rediviva of the Stones” ($60) – syrah, cabernet sauvignon and mourvèdre, which entices with its intense aromatics and flavors of red and black fruits, pepper, baking spices, finesse, and lively mouthfeel.

Another signature of Buty wines is a lively, vibrant character as seen in the 2013 Semillon, Sauvignon and Muscadelle ($25), which entices with lively citrus and fig while also displaying creamy richness. Buty also produces a lower priced line called BEAST that sources a wider variety of grapes and  vineyards. The 2012 “Wildebeest” ($25) is a fine value combining syrah, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, malbec and mourvèdre to produce abundant plum and berry with leafy notes and a sleek texture.

The Middleton family has worked the land in Washington since 1898 but only established Cadaretta in Walla Walla in 2005.  Their dedication and experience shows in the 2011 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($40), fairly full-bodied with dense, ripe currant, hints of herbs and supple texture. Firm tannins should help it develop for 10 years.

Even more impressive is the 2011 “Springboard” ($50). Essentially Cadaretta’s reserve, it is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Petit Verdot. It exudes dark berries and plum accented with touches of earth, herbs and spice. While it is fairly full-bodied, with a welcoming mouth feel, strong tannins and abundant fruit suggest a long life.

Tom Hedges and Anne-Marie Liégeois established Hedges Family Estate in 1987 and are considered pioneers of Red Mountain appellation, which has become one of Washington’s most highly regarded regions. Today, their daughter, winemaker Sarah, and son, General Manager Christophe, carry on the family tradition. The 2012 Red Mountain ($27) – 60% cabernet sauvignon and 26% merlot with dabs of syrah, cabernet franc and malbec – shows bright cherry and red currant with herbs and tobacco balanced with fresh tannins that keep it all lingering on the finish.

The Hedges family also is respectful of their history, as is seen with the 2012 Descendants Liegeois Dupont “Cuvée Marcel Dupont” Les Gosses Vineyard ($27). A tribute to Anne-Marie’s grandfather, this Syrah tilts to the earthy and spicy side of the grape with fennel and black pepper dominating the sweet/tart cherry flavors.

Speaking of pioneers, for 53 years Columbia Winery has been a leader in the development of Washington wine. Now owned by Gallo, new Winemaker Sean Hails has replaced the late, iconic winemaker David Lake. Working closely with several well-established growers, Hails crafts wines that are more than anything just good values.

Wines like the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay ($14) are varietally correct, with lively fruit and an easy drinking style ideal for everyday enjoyment. On the other hand, the “Composition” Red Blend ($14), a multivintage blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, plus syrah, malbec, and petit verdot, has juicy blackberry and cherry with hints of spice, soft tannins and a lingering finish.

Finally, more good values are available from the Middleton family’s Buried Cane label. Try the 2013 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($14) for its sweet dark berries with hints of chalk, mint and pepper delivered on a soft palate with good grip on finish. The

2011 Columbia Valley Red Wine ($25) is more complex with dark fruits and forest notes, black licorice and black pepper.

Wine grapes have been grown in Oregon since the mid-1800’s but it really wasn’t until the 1960’s when the seeds, actually the vines, were sown for the development of the internationally renowned wine industry we know today. With nearly 700 wineries, the state has become synonymous with world class Pinot Noir.

Oregon also has blazed the trail in the sustainable agriculture movement with increasing numbers of wineries participating in certification programs like LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology, Inc.), “Salmon Safe”, organic and sustainable farming practices, and Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Green Building certification.

But it still comes down to what’s in the bottle. As a group, the wines in this report show pure fruit, admirable ripeness and solid acidity. They aren’t inexpensive but most have avoided the price inflation of comparable wines from Burgundy and California.

When it comes to American Pinot noir, few possess the rich history and experience of Ponzi Vineyards. Dick and Nancy Ponzi planted their estate in 1970 within view of the nearby Chehalem Mountains and quickly became leaders in growing the Willamette Valley and Oregon wine in general to international recognition. Daughters Luisa and Maria Ponzi, Winemaker and President respectively, now continue the family tradition. The family also has been in the forefront of the responsible stewardship/sustainable agriculture movement.

And their wines are a fail-safe introduction to the Willamette Valley. The entry-level Tavola (2014, $25), made from younger estate vines and fruit from nearby growers, is a great value. The signature 2013 Willamette Valley ($40) has good balance and length with juicy black cherry and hints of vanilla, anise and sassafras, delivered with a sleek texture. The flagship 2012 Reserve ($60) is complex with abundant aromas and flavors of red berries and oak-imparted vanilla and spice but harmonizes power and elegance.

In 1983, Jim Bernau began planting what became Willamette Valley Vineyards. Since then, he and his partners have displayed innovation and forward thinking – from an intriguing community based funding model (today we call it “crowd funding”) and leadership in the responsible stewardship movement to grow into one of Oregon’s premier wineries.

An example of that creativity is the 2014 Whole Cluster ($22), made using partial carbonic maceration like Beaujolais and stainless steel fermentation. It is bright and fruity with appealing fresh berries. The 2013 Estate ($30) is inviting with lively red cherry and plum and light herb and tobacco notes, finishing with a fine grip. The 2012 Bernau Block ($55) is a single vineyard expression showing admirable complexity with bright red fruits accented by light touches of spice and licorice in a nicely structured frame.

Raptor Ridge is a location in the Chehalem Mountains and the name of the winemaking project Scott Shull founded just 20 years ago. He oversees winemaking and his partner Annie directs marketing and sales. Their 2013 Barrel Select Willamette ($30) is a nice cuvée from multiple vineyard sites; very approachable red and dark fruit, with suggestions of mint and tannin. The 2012 Estate Vineyard ($45) is excellent with ripe and round plum and red cherry scents, noticeable oak, fine tannin, and savory mocha notes on the finish.

Left Coast Cellars is another young winery, in this case founded in 2003 by Suzanne and Robert Pfaff. And they are another Oregon winery dedicated to sustainability and community. Also, the wines are made from estate fruit, even the entry-level 2013 Cali’s Cuvee ($24). Intended for early enjoyment, it’s light flavors of plums and strawberries benefit with a bit of earth. The signature single vineyard wine, 2013 Latitude 45° ($36) displays dark cherry, baking spices and tea leaves delivered in a graceful palate.

Finally, enjoy the first foray into Oregon by California’s Jackson Family Wines, under the moniker of their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay specialist, La Crema. The 2013 Willamette Valley ($30) sports plum and cherry fruit compote in an easily enjoyable style with enticing oak and a lush texture.

Burgundy. It’s a word that for many came to be synonymous with red wine – as in, “May I have a glass of Burgundy?” – like “Champagne” came to refer to any sparkling wine. As with Champagne, though, Burgundy (Bourgogne in French) is a specific geographic reference and in the wine world, it is a term that is legally regulated.

Also, with a few small exceptions (notably the gamay-based wines of Beaujolais), it is only two grapes – chardonnay for the whites and pinot noir for the reds. Geographically, the province stretches from Chablis in the north south to Dijon and on to Lyon. The most celebrated growing region is the Côte d’Or (slopes of gold), referring the color of the vines in the fall just south of Dijon.

It is this small area that has made Burgundy the benchmark for the concept of terroir. Over centuries, growers (initially Benedictine and Cistercian monks) came to delineate ever smaller demarcations of vineyards. In recognition of differences in soils, weather, climate and vegetation, these two grapes are seen as the best vehicles of expression for each site. The winemaker, of course, is important but in this view secondary.

For the purposes of this column, my recent tasting of the wines of Maison Roche de Bellene is a good illustration. Maison Roche de Bellene is the négociant business (makes wine with fruit purchased from other growers) of Nicolas Potel, a highly regarded winemaker in Burgundy, who also owns Domaine de Bellene (all estate-owned vineyards). The emphasis is on old vines – usually 40-80 years old and the wines are labeled Vieilles Vignes – that are farmed sustainably, in some cases organically and some even biodynamically.

Three of the four wines in my tasting are what is known as “village wines,” meaning they were sourced from vineyards surrounding the designated village. Village wines are considered to be of higher quality and cost more that a regional wine (simply labeled “Bourgogne”). While not cheap by any definition, they represent relative good values compared to the next levels in quality – Premier Cru and Grand Cru – as those wines can reach a cost of several hundred dollars a bottle (which also explains why there were none of these in my tasting).

The first thing I noticed with all these wines was the relatively light, translucent color, especially when compared to California and Oregon Pinot Noir. The second was penetrating aromatics of mostly red fruits (mainly cherry, also strawberry) with brown spice and an earthy quality. Third, in tasting the wines, higher acidity gave a sense of fresher but drier fruit, while that earthy quality also was present, often with an enticing note of black licorice.

The first two wines came from prestigious communes in the Côte de Nuits, the name for the northern half of the Côte d’Or that many say produces the epitome of pinot noir. I found the 2011 Chambolle-Musigny ($86) typical of the area, balancing elegance and finesse with power and depth. The 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin ($64), from a nearby commune, had a more intense aroma with tea and tobacco notes. Surrounded by possibly the greatest collection of vineyards in all of Burgundy, its intensity and firm structure complimented a purity of fruit and loamy shadings.

But it was the 2011 Volnay ($64), from a highly regarded village in the Côte de Beaune, the southern part of the Côte d’Or that many prize more for its whites, that impressed me the most. It started out with dark fruit and spice notes, even cayenne followed by a round, lush palate with a solid structure finishing fresh. While the Volnay is immediately enjoyable, the Chambolle and Gevrey are more likely to improve over time.

If even these are too rich for you, seek out the 2012 Bourgogne ($21). It is the most affordable and accessible and delivered a lot for a wine for the money. It’s worth the search for a taste of real Burgundy.

I began this series on Pinot Noir with the Burgundy region of France, the historical benchmark for the grape; followed with Oregon Pinot Noir, considered by many to be the Burgundy of the New World. Now it’s California, which knowledgeable consumers know rivals and sometimes exceeds Burgundy and Oregon.

With numerous appellations along a 500-mile stretch from Mendocino to Santa Barbara sourcing fine Pinot Noir, I have had to pare down my report to a shopping list of the best from my recent tastings.

While it remains a challenge to find California Pinot Noir with a consumer friendly price/quality relationship, my tastings did turn up several values. I was especially impressed with the 2012 Alta Maria Santa Maria Valley ($28) and 2013 Jackson Estate Anderson Valley ($30). Each is a spectacular value. The following are solid everyday wines that deliver good quality at a reasonable price:

• 2013 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($20)
• From Russian River Valley

2012 Frei Brothers Reserve ($27)

2013 Rodney Strong ($25)

2013 Ron Rubin ($25)

• From Monterey

2013 Chloe ($17)

2013 Liberated ($20)

2013 J. Lohr “Falcon’s Perch” ($17)

2012 Wente “Riva Ranch” ($25)

2013 Talbott “Logan” ($25)

Mendocino County: especially the Anderson Valley, and Goldeneye is one of the best. Each of these wines is excellent.

• 2012 Anderson Valley ($55) intense but focused
• 2012 Gowan Creek Vineyard ($82) inviting fruit, enticing herbs
• 2012 Confluence Vineyard ($82) complex, layered
• 2012 The Narrows Vineyard ($82) rich, full and tannic
• 2012 Split Rail Vineyard ($82) wild berry and dried herb
• 2012 Ten Degrees ($115) complete and balanced

Russian River Valley: one of two top Sonoma County sources of world class Pinot

• 2012 MacRostie ($42) like cherry pie with baking spices
• 2012 Patz & Hall “Chenoweth Ranch” ($60) structured opulence from one of the best of the tasting

Sonoma Coast: California’s newest “hot” region for Pinot Noir but Cobb Wines was one of the first there 26 years ago.

• 2012 Diane Cobb: Coastlands Vineyard ($85) a spectacular wine of vivid fruit, enticing texture and dramatic earthbound complexity

Two other Cobb wines were remarkable for their abundant flavor despite low alcohol:

• 2012 Emmaline Ann Vineyard ($75) subtle but extremely well defined
• 2012 Rice-Spivak Vineyard ($75) deep with a bright beam of red fruit

Other top notch Sonoma Coast:

• 2012 MacRostie Goldrock Ridge ($54) dominant earth and spice nearly equaled by concentrated fruit
• 2013 Patz & Hall “Jenkins Ranch” ($60) top tier for its impressive complexity, packed with layers of fruit and savory qualities
• 2013 Patz & Hall Sonoma Coast ($46) lush, lively fruit
• 2013 Patz & Hall “Gap’s Crown Vineyard” ($70) powerful sweet oak and fruit with the right touch of earth

Carneros: Straddling the southern end of Sonoma and Napa

• 2012 Patz & Hall “Hyde Vineyard” ($70) an amazing rich, complex, harmonious, and pure wine, one of the most remarkable wines of my tastings
• 2012 Frank Family Carneros ($35) deep, ripe black cherry accented with light oak and sleek texture

Monterey County: From one of the region’s Pinot Noir pioneers, several of Talbott Vineyards wines starred in my tastings.

Two wines from their first vineyard reflect different selections of Dijon clones:

• 2012 Diamond T ($52) distinguished by deep, dark fruit, strong spice and heady alcohol
• 2012 Diamond T “RFT” ($75) red berries and sharp acidity, less herbal but plenty of richness

Santa Lucia Highlands: a highly regarded Monterey sub-appellation

• 2013 Talbott “Sarah Case” Sleepy Hollow Vineyard ($75) dramatic savory mushroom and bracing acidity
• 2012 Patz & Hall Pisoni Vineyard ($90) a complete portfolio of fantastic fruit, oak, earth and texture, highly recommended

Santa Barbara County: rivalling with Sonoma as California’s best Pinot Noir region

• 2012 Alta Maria “Bien Nacido Vineyard” Santa Maria Valley ($48) rich, layered, full flavored and extremely spicy
• 2012 Sea Smoke Santa Ynez Valley “Southing” ($60) elegant and seductive, rich and full bodied with beautifully concentrated fruit, a stunning wine