The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

Over the last 30 years, Central and Southern Italian wines have risen in consumer interest, largely because of increased quality and reasonable pricing. Further, an emphasis on resurrecting rare native grape varieties coincided with increasing consumer interest in new flavor experiences. In a world of increasing costs, these wines deliver distinctive, bold, expressions of their origins, at impressive price points. 

MARCHE

Just east of Tuscany, Marche is bordered by the Apennine Mountains on the west and the Adriatic Sea on the east. While best known as a white wine region, notable reds from the subregion of Rosso di Picenzo, feature enticing blends of montepulciano and sangiovese. A favorite is the 2021 Garofoli “Farnio” ($13) for its lively dark berries, hint of vanilla and powdery tannins. 

ABRUZZO

Bordering Marche to the south, Abruzzo is notable for its Apennine mountains, national parks, and sunny Adriatic coastline. Though not well-known, its Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wine is quite popular as the montepulciano grape here makes an ideal everyday wine. The 2017 Nestore Bosco “Pan” ($20) is robust, with ripe fruit, hints of spice and earth, and powerful tannins. The 2017 La Valentina “Spelt” ($23) from some of the top estate vineyards, delivers bright red fruits with an assertive presence. 

CAMPANIA

Enjoying a prime location south of Rome and east of Naples, Campania is the source of several notable white and red wines but Taurasi (the region and the wine) is the most prestigious. Crafted from aglianico grapes, it is the one exception to my low price theme. The 2009 Case d’Alto Taurasi Riserva ($80) is complex showing smoky dried cherry, prune, balsamic, star anise, spice, oak, and an age worthy structure.

PUGLIA

Visualizing Italy as a boot, Puglia runs from the calf down to the heel. A relative of zinfandel, primitivo thrives in the warm vineyards of Salento in the heel. One of my favorites is the ebullient, juicy 2021 Li Veli “Orion” ($15). Another flavorful, good value is the organic 2019 Antica Enotria “Vriccio” ($15). Also in Salento, the 2019 Li Veli Susumaniello ($21), an ancient grape resurrected, packs a deep, red fruited punch. The 2012 Apollonio “Divoto” Riserva ($28) synergizes negroamaro and montepulciano for ripe red fruit, clove, and fresh tannins.

CALABRIA 

Geographically, Calabria lies west of Puglia in Italy’s toe. A largely mountainous region with a fascinating history and a stunning coastline, it’s experiencing something of a winemaking renaissance. The 2017 Casa Comerci ‘A Batia ($27) from magliocco canino, a variety exclusive to this area, and vinified using indigenous yeasts, is rich and full. The full bodied, tannic 2013 Ippolito 1845 “Ripe del Falco” ($30) is an impressive expression of Calabria’s most respected wine, Cirò Superiore Riserva, based on gaglioppo, another ancient local variety. 

As our planet continues to experience the effects of climate change and extreme weather events occur with increased frequency, more and more wineries worldwide are committing to be good employers, good neighbors and good planetary citizens. Here are just a few. 

Inman Family Wines is committed to cherishing the land through ethically produced wines – regenerative farming practices, natural winemaking, and environmentally responsible business practices – that are restrained, elegant, structured in style, and pair well with food. Its Olivet Grange Vineyard (OGV) is farmed organically. 

Sequoia Grove Winery is certified sustainable by Napa Green, a third-party, sustainable winegrowing program focused on climate action, regenerative carbon farming, and social equity. The winery is a 1% for the Planet member, supporting Save the Redwoods League.

Mill Keeper prioritizes sourcing fruit from family-owned farms in Napa, Sonoma, Solano, Lake and Mendocino counties with sustainable land management programs while creating high-quality, environmentally conscious wine at a value. The winery also is a partner of National Parks Conservation Association.

Ancient Peaks farms its Santa Margarita Ranch in Paso Robles to promote a biodiverse ecosystem that maintains wildlife habitat and native oak trees. The winery eschews synthetic pesticides and herbicides, instead promoting native predators. Water and energy conservation practices include bottling most wines in lighter glass.

Fulldraw Vineyard produces estate-grown Rhône varietal wines in Paso Robles. Emphasizing organic and regenerative farming practices – flocks of sheep mow cover crops, weed and fertilize the vineyard – along with water and energy conservation practices.

Symington Family Estates, in Portugal, is an international leader in sustainability – member of International Wineries for Climate Action and partner in United Nation’s Race-to-Zero, mobilizing credible climate action – and a certified B Corp. It is shifting to lighter glass bottles for most of its wines to reduce carbon emissions. 

Root:1, from Ventisquero, Chile’s first certified sustainable winery, emphasizes extreme value from sustainably farmed vineyards, and eco-friendly packaging. 

The wines:

2021 Inman “Pratt Vine Hill” Chardonnay ($73) citrus, apple, luscious nuts, baking spice

2019 Inman OGV Estate Pinot Noir ($75) rich, black cherry, cola, savory spices

2019 Seqouia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon ($55) fresh plum, cassis, iron savory herb

2021 Seqouia Grove Chardonnay ($36) crisp citrus, pear, mineral notes, juicy

The Mill Keeper Cabernet Sauvignon ($25) lively red fruits, toasty oak, vanilla, 

The Mill Keeper Chardonnay ($24) tropical fruit, apricot, vanilla, juicy 

2019 Ancient Peaks Chardonnay ($20) crisp, tropical notes, pear, citrus, easy

2020 Zinfandel ($22) lively, juicy raspberry, nice weight, toasty, black pepper

2018 Fulldraw FD2 ($55) 60% grenache, 40% syrah, sumptuous, concentrated, firm

Graham’s “Six Grapes” Reserve Port ($29) aromatic, mixed berries, chocolate, almond 

2021 GEA by Root:1 ($24) cabernet sauvignon and país (Chile’s ancestral grape); fresh berries, toast, easy drinking; 3-liter box 

Winegrape vines were brought to Australia in the late 1700s and commercial winemaking began around 1820. Mostly growing French varieties, the Australian wine industry expanded significantly over the last 30 years. And while this popularity has given rise to countless cases of inexpensive simple wine, the industry also produces ample qualities of truly fine world class wine.

Shiraz (known as Syrah just about everywhere else) is the most grown variety, most often produced as a single varietal wine but also blended with other grapes. Here I recommend several very good wines at affordable prices from several of the country’s most significant growing regions to give you a flavor of the quality available.

New South Wales. In the southeastern corner of Australia, the its most important area, Hunter Valley runs along the coast 2 hours north of Sydney. Tyrell’s has been family-owned from its founding in 1858 and today is one of Australia’s elite wineries: 2018 ($23) bold cherry, plum, baking spice, anise, espresso. 

Western Australia. On the other side of the continent, the coastal city of Perth is the main urban area; Margaret River, about three hours southwest, the major wine region. Forester, family-owned and a highly-regarded since its establishment in 2001: 2019 “Lifestyle” ($25) dark berries, bright acidity, spice, anise, fine tannins. 

The Great Southern on the south coast experiences more continental and cooler climates. Howard Park, established in 1986, owns vineyards throughout Western Australia: 2017 “Flint Rock” ($20) intense dark cherries, vanilla, peppery, earthy, soft. 

South Australia. In the lower center of the continent, this is arguably the most important region. One important subregion is McLaren Vale about an hour south of Adelaide on the coast. Handpicked makes wines from select estate vineyards and emphasizes organics, sustainability, and biodiversity: 2020 “Regional Selections” ($25) juicy black fruits, licorice, savory, peppery, satiny. Just off the coast, Kangaroo Island is home to The Islander, established 20 years ago by prominent Bordeaux vintner Jacques Lurton: 2021 “The Red” ($19); straightforward, juicy red berries, plum, minty, supple.

Barossa Valley. About an hour north of Adelaide, South Australia’s most revered wine region. Dating to 1842, it has the longest unbroken lineage of winegrowing families. Barossa is nirvana for shiraz. 

• 2019 Schild Estate “Prämie” Narrow Road Vineyard ($40) pioneering family of Barossa with very old (1847) plantings of shiraz vines; concentrated, brilliant red berries, juicy, black pepper, toffee oak accents, classy 
• 2017 Langmeil “Valley Floor” ($30) family-owned since the 1840s, farm the world’s oldest shiraz vines (1843); rich, luscious cherry, currant, savory, baking spices, firm, dusty tannins
• 2021 Alkina “KIN” ($26) with founding connections to Argentina and Chile, certified organic and biodynamic; mixed berries, lively, savory, intense tannins

As recent wine industry sales reports show blended wines gaining popularity, I have wondered how much of that is Bordeaux. I suspect little. Largely because of price but likely also because there are so many alternative wines and growing regions these days. 

Red Bordeaux wines basically are assemblages of mostly cabernet sauvignon and merlot, with varying amounts of petit verdot, cabernet franc, and malbec. The Médoc is the prime area, especially the Haut- Médoc subregion. Its Left Bank (of the Gironde estuary) communes of Margaux, Pauillac, St. Estèphe, St. Julien, and Graves and its Right Bank communes of St. Emilion and Pomerol get most of the attention. This is where the most famous château, namely those included in 1855 Classification (something that has been changed little since!) are located.

Briefly, Pauillac, an important port throughout history, houses some of the most famous estates, including three of the five Bordeaux First-Growth wines. Margaux is the largest area, with the most cru classé properties. Saint-Estèphe, the northernmost appellation of the Haut-Médoc, has slightly different soils leading to highly structures wines. Saint-Julien a small appellation, has the highest percentage of surface area/wines that are classified. 

When I first became interested in wine, I occasionally was able to afford one of these top Bordeaux. But today most of their prices are beyond what only a few anywhere can afford. But Bordeaux values do exist. On the Left Bank, particularly wines carrying the Cru Bourgeois (especially Cru Bourgeois Supérieur and Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel) and especially those from the communes of Listrac and Moulis label offer admirable quality for significantly lower prices. 

More inland and east from the Gironde, the satellite region of the Côtes de Bordeaux notably the appellations associated with the villages of Blaye, Castillon, Cadillac and Francs – can deliver good value. Also, many of the producers pursue organic and biodynamic practices. Francs is the farthest east and most rural growing area. It also is known for prehistoric Lascaux cave paintings. 

Moulis-en-Médoc means the commune (town) of Moulis in the Médoc. Moulis is somewhat central in the peninsula, halfway between Margaux and Saint-Julien, but slightly off the main route. Listrac-Médoc is located at the highest point of the Médoc peninsula. Its geography results in a cooler climate than the other communes. 

This column mostly features wines of the Left Bank, usually emphasizing cabernet sauvignon. Try them and you will be convinced Bordeaux can be counted among the world’s great wine values. In fact, all wines featured in this piece are under $50. 

The wines:

2018 Château de Pez St.-Estèphe ($60) Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel; 49% cabernet sauvignon, 49% merlot, 1% cabernet franc, 1% petit verdot, vibrant dark berries, fresh red berries, black olives, forest notes, firm texture, will excel with aging 

2019 Château Fourcas-Dupré Listrac-Médoc ($26) 2/3 cabernet sauvignon, 1/3 merlot, 1% petit verdot; lively cassis, black currant, spice, full-bodied, concentrated, youthfully structured, fine tannins, will develop nicely 

2018 Château Petit Bocq Saint-Estephe ($28) Cru Bourgeois Superiore; equal parts cabernet sauvignon and merlot, with cabernet franc and petit verdot; dense black fruits, currants, mint, chocolate, earth, chewy texture

2018 Château Bellegrave Paullac ($40) 2/3 cabernet sauvignon, 1/3 merlot; dense black currant and berries, plum, spicy herbs, full-bodied, rich, rustic tannins, potential to evolve nicely

2019 Château LaTour de Bessan Margaux ($38) 58% cabernet sauvignon, 32% merlot, 10% petit verdot; dense dark berries, currants, hints of violets and graphite, earthy, soft but firm tannins 

2018 Château du Retout Haut-Médoc ($28) Cru Bourgeois; ¾ cabernet sauvignon, with petit verdot and merlot; dark berries, herbal, earthy, spice, firm, chewy tannins 

2016 Château Puyanché Francs Côtes de Bordeaux ($16) 80% merlot, 20% cabernet sauvignon; the lone Right Bank wine; fresh, red currant, plum, lightly chalky, solid and balanced

2018 Château Dargan Moulis-en-Médoc ($23) merlot, cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot; red fruits, earth, herbs, vanilla, pleasant acidity, velvety

Of the seven major officially recognized winegrowing regions in New York, the Finger Lakes may be the best known, but with fresh sea air, boutique lodgings and a creative local food scene, the venerable coastal stretch that is Long Island is proving to be a big draw for the serious wine drinker and traveler. 

The North Fork of Long Island, with the majority of the island’s nearly 90 wineries, is of particular attraction. Just over 100 miles from Manhattan, these producers benefit from the moderately cool maritime climate and influences from the Long Island Sound above and protection from Peconic Bay and the South Fork (think The Hamptons) below. 

While winegrowing here dates at least to the 1820s, commercial winegrowing didn’t take hold until the 1960s and 1970s but really began to take off in the 1980s. Unlike many eastern US wine regions, mostly vinifera grapes (like merlot, cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and riesling) are grown. 

The wines below were uniformly impressive and notable for moderate alcohol ranging from 11% to 13%.

Nonvintage Sparkling Pointe Brut Nature ($42) dedicated to the exclusive production of Méthode Champenoise Sparkling wines; sustainably grown using the classic Champagne varieties; Brut Nature is 68% pinot noir, 32% chardonnay, principally from aged reserve wines with over three years sur lie; very dry, precise pear, apple, citrus, salty, toasty 

2020 Peconic Bay Riesling ($30) one of the oldest Long Island wineries (1979); focused on sustainable viticulture; slightly sweet but more tangy, nicely balanced, crisp acidity, peach, honey 

2021 Bridge Lane Sauvignon Blanc ($20) small farm-winery, grapes grown sustainably on estate vineyards and sourced from other local vineyards; no oak, revealing energized freshness, juicy flavors of citrus and appealing herbal notes; fresh, light, dry, fruit-forward style meant for casual sipping; the eco-conscious, informal approach extends to offerings in 4 containers – 750ml bottle, 3L box, 250ml can and 20L keg

2019 Baiting Hollow “Pink Satin” Rosé ($35) conveniently located at the western-most cusp of the North Fork, this farm and vineyard produces estate blend of merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon; pleasantly dry, fresh apple and citrus, bright and elegant

2021 Macari “Horses” Sparkling Cabernet Franc ($29) from a family with a tradition of home winemaking, and planted vineyards in 1995; focus on biodiversity and biodynamic practices; This is a “pétillant naturel” (Pet Nat) – fermentation is finished in the bottle; result is frothy and lively, with deeply juicy red berries

2019 Pellegrini Chardonnay Stainless Steel ($23) one of the pioneers of the modern Long Island wine industry, Pellegrini planted its vineyards in 1982 on the eastern tip of the island; limited release unoaked wine; vivacious and fresh offering citrus, pear and honeydew. 

As in other areas of life, it’s easy for us to get in a rut drinking a small number of types of wine. But as in life, so in wine: experiencing a diversity of grapes and their flavor profiles is enriching.

My recent tasting of “alternative” white wines (that is, no Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc) was one of the most enjoyable of recent months. Generally, you should find the wines in this column are bright, food-friendly and meant to be enjoyed at any time. A surprisingly winning array of wines, even though mostly unfamiliar grape varieties.

Riesling. Although it still has a reputation of being only a sweet wine, Riesling – the iconic wine of Germany and Alsace – often delightfully balances residual sugar and bracing acidity. But more and more, dry or off-dry Riesling is taking its place at the table. The best wines delightfully balance juicy, dramatic expressions of apple, grapefruit or peach (and sometimes peach or apricot) with bracing acidity, occasionally with steely, mineral components. It is intensely aromatic, impressively structured, and amazingly expressiveness of its terroir.

2021 J. Lohr Arroyo Seco “Bay Mist” ($13) sourced from Monterey; good everyday sipping, touch sweet

2020 Argyle “Nuthouse” ($30) from Oregon’s Willamette Valley; vibrant fruit; creamy texture from barrel fermentation and aging

2019 Penner-Ash Hyland Vineyard “Old Vine” ($40) also Oregon’s Willamette Valley; dramatic fruit, floral qualities, light spice, off dry

Pinot Gris. This grape – generally noted for full bodied, sumptuous stone fruit, melon, and citrus – is genetically a clone of pinot noir and is believed to have originated in Burgundy yet these days is more prominent in Alsace, Germany, Italy (pinot grigio) and Austria (where it is known as grauburgunder or ruländer), and, of course, Italy (where it is known as pinot grigio). It’s the leading white variety in Oregon and increasingly popular in California. Its name also refers to the greyish color of its skin. 

2021 FEL Anderson Valley ($32) Founded in 2014, Canadian vintner Cliff Lede named FEL Wines in honor of his mother, Florence Elsie Lede; bright citrus refreshing acidity in this succulent, lush, tight honeysuckle, peach melon 

2020 Alma Rosa La Encantada Vineyard ($32) planted by Alma Rosa’s founder (and Santa Barbara icon) Richard Sanford in 2000 in Santa Barbara County’s east-west traversing mountain range in the Sta. Rita Hills; precise, full-bodied, stone fruits, balanced acidity

Pinot Blanc. Another mutation of pinot noir, is associated with Alsace, Austria (weissburgunder), Germany (weissburgunder) and Italy (pinot bianco). It tends to offer peach, pear, lime, melon and apple and present with have good weight. 

2020 Alma Rosa La Encantada Pinot Blanc ($35) bright acidity, subtle aromas of ocean breeze

2021 Lucy “Pico Blanco” ($24) here’s a combination of 70% pinot gris and 30% pinot blanc! Named by the Pisoni family after a mountain peak in Montery County; pear, apple, lemon, creamy; one dollar of every bottle donated to Monterey Bay Aquarium for ocean conservancy. 

Viognier. Viognier once upon a time was quite rare but is now the most-planted white Rhone varietal in the United States. It produces wines with intense aromatics of peach, apricot, apple, and floral notes, as well as viscosity and lushness. 

2020 Cristom Louise Vineyard ($30) since 1992 in the Eola-Amity Hills of Oregon’s Willamette Valley; organic and biodynamic farming; structured, honeysuckle, anise, peach, apricot

Chenin Blanc. Originates from the Loire Valley where it makes fascinating, complex, luscious (dry or sweet), yet underappreciated wines. It also has been increasingly successful in South Africa. In California, it used to be produced in a fruity, slightly sweet style, though a few brave souls now make a dry style inspired by the fine wines of Savennieres. 

2021 Dry Creek Vineyard “Dry” ($16). From a choice vineyard in Clarksburg in Lodi, it is aromatic and brisk, balanced with bright apple and honey.

Grüner Veltliner. Austria’s signature grape has become so popular we have begun to see small but increasing plantings in California. It produces outgoing, lively wines, with succulent fruit – citrus and tropical – and hints of mineral and spice. 

2015 Fiddlehead Cellars “Bebble” Fiddlestix Vineyard Reserve ($42) from a pioneer of the grape in California, a selection of the most expressive barrels from Sta. Rita Hills in Santa Barbara County; delicate fruit, pleasing acidity, mineral, lightly peppery, surprising weight, elegant but rich palate balance by acidity .

Albariño. Primarily identified with northwest Spain and Portugal (where it is known as alvarinho) it can make invigorating, floral and citrus-flecked wines. There also are some interesting, successful examples in California, notably in the central coast regions. 

2021 Vara ($30) a new wine project from partners highly regarded winemakers Laurent Gruet (founder of Gruet sparkling wine producer), Bob Lindquist (founder of Qupé in Santa Barbara) and his wife Louisa Sawyer Lindquist (founder of Verdad Wine Cellars) based in Albuquerque, New Mexico, to produce wines from Spanish grape varietals grown in Spain, New Mexico and American vineyards; honeysuckle, melon, stone fruit and the essence of wet stone, rich fruit amazing acidity, tropical and stone fruit minerality, limestone lime. 

Riesling is an enigma. The grape can make some of the planet’s greatest white wines. But it also may be the most underappreciated white wine. It’s subject to misperceptions, such as “all Riesling is sweet” and “it’s only grown in Germany”. Well, contrary to the assumptions of many, not all Riesling is sweet. And, as great as German Riesling is, Riesling from Alsace can reach equally majestic heights. And most Alsace Riesling is dry. 

Located in northeastern France between the Rhine River and the Vosges mountains, on the borders of Germany and Switzerland, Alsace has a history of invaders occupying it as a strategic geopolitical position. In addition to Strasbourg and Colmar, much of its charm is in the many small villages that have been preserved throughout that history.

Farming of grapes began with the occupation of the Romans in the second century. Over the next 1800 years, the wine of the region suffered many inconsistencies, largely a result of war, occupation and overproduction. It wasn’t until after the first world war that a tentative renewal of the region began. It coincided with a switch from German to French control. (Alsace has alternated between German and French control over the centuries and reflects a mix of those cultures.) Efforts to improve quality finally began to take hold after the second world war. But didn’t really advance until the 1970s. Today, many would say it is one of the highest quality, not to mention one of the most beautiful, production regions of France. 

The diversity of Alsace terroirs (including granite, sandstone, calcareous limestone, and slate) is ideal for riesling, which is widely regarded as one of the most transparent grapes, a medium through which terroir can be expressed. But cool climate, especially on the hillsides, also is important. Records suggest riesling was introduced during the 9th century in Germany’s Rheinghau and made it to Alsace at the end of the 15th century. But its growth really only developed in the second half of the 19th century. It was after the 1960’s that it reached the top position of production in Alsace, where 90% is white wine. 

Typically, Riesling d’Alsace wines are enticingly aromatic, fresh, elegant, and most importantly dry. Expect to find lemon, citrus, peach, apricot and pear, occasionally with delicate floral notes. Sometimes, there even is a touch of anise and the Grands Crus (highest classified vineyards) and lieux-dits (other single vineyard wines) can reveal mineral elements. On the palate, the wines drink quite energetic, with racy precision. Intense fruit is presented with finesse but enough weight to balance the brisk character. The wines (usually a blend of selected vineyards, unless otherwise noted), age well. The Grands Crus and lieux-dits are best five-to-ten years after harvest and can mature nicely twice that long. They are relatively low alcohol and terrific values.

And Riesling is a fine food wine. A great match for fish and shellfish, poultry and white meats. It cuts through creamy and other rich sauces, refreshing each bite. Its character makes for a particularly successful combination with oysters and even caviar. It also is one of the most versatile wines with cheese, from fresh goat to soft Brie to salty Parmesan. 

Recommended Wines

2017 Mélanie Pfister “Engelberg” Grand Cru ($48) small estate began life in 1780 in northern Alsace; limestone laced marl soils currently farmed by the eighth generation now fully organic; full, rich intense, searing lemon, structured elegance, luscious and stony character lively and earthy

2017 Domaines Schlumberger “Saering” Grand Cru ($36) founded in 1810 on vineyards originally planted by the Romans; 100% estate-bottled wines near Guebwiller, 6th and 7th generations carry on the family tradition; the largest Grands Crus producer in Alsace; sandstone, marl and calcareous (limestone) soils; still youthful mixed citrus fruits, apple, focused and mouthwatering, touches of stony mineral, and spice 

2020 Meyer-Fonné Reserve ($29) family owned near the village of Katzenthal since founding in the late 19th century; blend of vineyards of mostly granite with alluvial, sandstone, clay and calcareous soils, includes fruit from Grand Cru vineyards and other single vineyards; juicy orange, concentrated, elegant, stony mineral notes and anise

2019 Kuentz-Bas ($22) over 225 years old property; made from biodynamic and sustainably farmed fruit with minimal-intervention cellar practices; very dry, intense, energetic, aromatic, green apple, anise, apricot, fruity

Domaine Christophe Mittnacht 2019 Terres d’Etoiles ($29) family-run estate founded in 1958 near the town of Hunawihr; early pioneers of the biodynamic movement, officially certified biodynamic in 1999; terroir is clay and limestone; delicate, fresh and floral 

2019 Cave de Ribeauvillé ($17) founded in 1895, vineyards surround village of Ribeauvillé; oldest wine co-operative in France, currently with 110 members; from a patchwork of different soils and subsoils; fresh lemon citrus, flint

Portugal, with a winemaking heritage of around three thousand years, today is best known for Port, a wine with over a three hundred year history and considered among the great wines in the world. 

From the Douro Valley, world renowned for its dramatically sloping hillsides and terraced vineyards, this red dessert wine is made in two basic styles – ruby and tawny – with a number of variations within each style. But all typically are high alcohol (fortified with brandy to around 20% ABV) and bursting with red and black fruit flavors, richness, a hint of almond, and natural sweetness balanced with refreshing tannin and finished with a kick that always warms my soul. 

Vintage Port sits at the pinnacle of the Port ladder. It is highly praised for intensity and ability to develop over many decades. It is made only in exceptional years and bottled after only two years in wood. It is distinguished by power and concentration. 

• 2020 Kopke ($85) the oldest Port house, established in 1638; displays characteristic structure and intensity; expressive, balanced, and refined 

• 2010 Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos ($65) house founded in 1820; rare single vineyard; finely structured and forward, but more elegant and ready to drink, yet its eucalyptus notes can be enjoyed for many more years

Port houses have developed variations over the decades to make their wines more accessible in taste and affordability.

As with most pinnacle wines, Vintage Port is beyond the reach of many consumers, either because it is too expensive or its incredible depths of flavor and complexity are overwhelming. Thus, Port houses have developed variations over the decades to make their wines more accessible in taste and affordability.

Late Bottled Vintage Port offers a taste of Vintage Port character, as it is made from very good wines that didn’t quite make the severe selection for Vintage Port but at a much more affordable price. Bottled after four to six years and ready to drink upon release, it will hold for several years.

• 2016 Fonseca ($24) founded in 1815; unfiltered; touch of licorice, full-bodied, balances with lush tannins

• Cockburn’s Special Reserve ($20) fruity, luscious, smooth, mellow 
• Graham’s Six Grapes ($27) youthful, complex, structured, balanced

Ruby Port is the youngest, freshest and most accessible style, both in taste profile and price. Reserve Port – with exuberant fruit, intensity and richness is a bridge between Ruby Port and Vintage Port. 

• Cockburn’s Special Reserve ($20) founded in 1815; the first Reserve Port in 1969; luscious fruity character and a smooth and mellow finish

• Graham’s “Six Grapes” ($27) house established in 1820; classic youthful finesse, structured and balanced

Tawny Port is distinguished from Ruby Port by a process that marries multiple vintages for average periods ranging from ten to forty years in cask. Extensive aging results in a gradual transformation creating mellow wines known for complexity, purity of fruit and elegance. This also mellows the wines color from deep red to, well, tawny. And it balances the intense fruit of the base wine with wood character. As a result, the wines retain berry freshness even as they develop enticing qualities like almond and fig. Ready to drink upon release, expect a distinctive almond nuttiness, admirable balance, and a silky texture. 

10 Year Old tawnies are a good introduction to the style; you can discern these elements of age and a certain finesse. They are aged in wood an average of ten years and delightfully mellow with succulent fig and plum, with a little bitter almond.  

• Croft ($37) founded in 1588; wonderfully aromatic, complex and luscious 

• Kopke ($35) succulent, bright, intense and full

A 20 Year Old Tawny should provide more complexity and intensity. You experience the freshness, elegance and pure fruit with intense complexity, often with cinnamon, licorice and caramel. 

• Taylor Fladgate ($50) established in 1692; opulent, enticing raisins, honey, and date 

• Kopke ($70) luscious, graceful, deep, mellow 

Colheita Port (kohl-YAY-tah): Tawny Port from a single vintage year and quite rare; aged in cask for a minimum of seven years but often released long after that; tend to be surprisingly fresh, elegant and refined.

• 2012 Kopke ($40) rich, intense, nutty, spicy

Colheita (kohl-YAY-tah) Ports are tawny Ports from a single vintage year and are fairly rare. Aged in cask for a minimum of seven years but often released long after that. They tend to be surprisingly fresh, elegant and refined.

2012 Kopke ($40) rich, intense, nutty, spicy

While sparkling wine is usually the wine of choice for special occasions, I suggest bubbly is to be enjoyed any time of year and at any occasion, including tonight’s meal. sparkling wine is made just about everywhere on the planet and at a variety of price points. Here is just a sampling. (All are nonvintage, unless otherwise state.)

One method for producing bubbles is the Charmat Method: bubbles come from the second fermentation in large, pressurized stainless steel tanks. Italian Prosecco is arguably the most popular example, and an especially good value. Expect fresh, delicate pear, apple, citrus, and peach complimented with a frothy palate.

Gancia, which lays claim to being the first Italian sparkling wine producer and also is known for its popular Vermouth, produces delightful Prosecco Brut (delicate, fresh citrus and pear) and Rosé ($14) are delightful choices. 

Villa Wolf, a premier estate in Germany’s Pfalz region, offers a Pinot Noir Rosé ($16) that is fresh and elegant with strawberry and cherry. By the way, German bubbles are  known as “sekt”.

The Champagne Method or Traditional Method, where bubbles form during a second fermentation in the bottle, usually generates the more prized (read expensive) wines. Italy also produces what they call Metodo Classico. While Franciacorta and Trentodoc are the best known examples, these delightful Sicilian bubbles should convince you to look south. 

• Tenuta Nicosia “Sosta Tre Santi Etna”($30) from nerello mascalese grown at high altitude on the volcano, expect brisk lemon, pear, lychee, saline, mineral and saline 
• Planeta Carricante Brut Sicilia DOC ($44) from carricante, fresh citrus and peach, delicate, and honeyed

How about an unlikely Traditional Method from Argentina? The 2020 Mascota Vineyards “Unánime” Brut ($20) from chardonnay and malbec, has good intensity and finishes creamy and elegant.

Arguably the best value in Champagne Method bubbly is Spanish Cava, primarily from the Penedès region near Barcelona, mostly native grapes. 

• Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad ($30) its portfolio’s crown jewel, made with macabeo and parellada, is full and rich, yet elegant
• Los Dos Brut ($13) from macabeo, xarel-lo, parellada, lemon, green apple, pear, and fresh bread
• Mercat Brut Rosé ($14) from macabeo, xarel-lo, parellada, and monastrell, fresh red berries and crisp citrus

Of course, there also is an abundance of fine California Champagne Method sparkling wine. 

• 2016 Frank Family Blanc de Blancs ($55) chardonnay; lively citrus, delicate, rich; 2017 Brut Rosé pinot noir; complex, red berries, refined
• 2018 Cuvaison Brut Cuvée ($50) pinot noir, chardonnay; luscious citrus, brioche;
• 2017 Cuvaison Brut Rosé ($60) pinot noir, chardonnay; raspberry, pink grapefruit, succulent 
• 2019 Sosie “Bare Necessity” Rosé ($36) syrah; apple, strawberry, almond
• 2019 Goldeneye Brut Rose ($70) Anderson Valley, 100% pinot noir, intense cherry and strawberry with pleasant yeasty notes
• 2019 Sonoma-Cutrer Grand Brut Rose ($55) Russian River Valley 70% pinot noir, 30% chardonnay

And from Oregon, especially Argyle in Willamette Valley, one of the state’s premier sparkling wine makers since its founding in 1987. 

• 2018 Brut ($30) chardonnay with pinot noir and pinot meunier, rich with juicy lemon custard 
• 2019 Blanc de Blancs ($30) chardonnay; intense, energetic citrus, stone fruits, toasty, light spice, lush texture 
• 2012 Extended Tirage Brut ($85) pinot noir, chardonnay; specially produced from extended aging is impressively complex and full flavored.

Finally, an impressive new sparkler from Laurent Gruet, who is well-known for world class bubbles under the Gruet label from his unlikely base in Albuquerque, New Mexico. With 40 years of sparkling wine making experience, he is breaking boundaries with Silverhead Brut ($25), a new release from Vara Winery & Distillery. Collaborating with respected California winemakers Bob Lindquist and Louisa Sawyer Lindquist to blend chardonnay and syrah from Washington with xarel-lo and macabeo from Spain. Produced by the Traditional Method Silverhead is delightful with lemon, apple and toast. 

If you are looking for a wine splurge for the holidays, consider these California Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Bordeaux-style Blends. The following wines are among the best wines I tasted this year. And whether you gift yourself or someone else, these wines showcase a pursuit of excellence regardless of price.

Cabernet Sauvignon

2019 Brandlin Estate ($90) fruit grown on Brandlin’s Mt. Veeder estate on a ridgeline high in the Mayacamas mountains; with petit verdot, cabernet franc and malbec; rich, full-bodied, firm texture; abundant dark berries, balanced with bay leaf, anise and graceful tannins 

2019 Spottswoode “Lyndenhurst” ($90) widely regarded as among Napa Valley’s elite, with the Estate Cabernet Sauvignon among the valley’s best each vintage; Lyndenhurst, the estate’s second wine, is nearly as good; with cabernet franc, petit verdot, merlot and malbec; succulent red and black fruits, earthy and tobacco notes, and refined, texture. 

2019 Sullivan Rutherford Estate “Coeur de Vigne” ($120) established in the 1970’s in a prime location in the Napa Valley, since 2018, new owners have elevated the winery’s already high reputation; with petit verdot, cabernet franc and merlot; concentrated cherry, cassis, with cedar and tobacco notes and a pleasantly dense texture 

2018 J. Lohr “Signature” ($100) tribute to founder Jerry Lohr’s pioneering efforts in Paso Robles; an expression of the high elevation Beck Vineyard in the Creston District of Paso Robles, represents the winery’s ultimate red wine; with a small addition of the rare Bordeaux variety Saint-Macaire and a dollop of malbec; dense dark fruits, toasty and chocolate notes, elegant tannins 

Merlot 

2019 Duckhorn Three Palms Vineyard ($115) once again this “grand cru” vineyard on the Napa Valley floor has produced a top-notch wine; succulent black cherry, currant, toast, herbs and spice, balanced with olive, tobacco, and oak; structured with richness and depth and polish

2019 Sullivan Rutherford Estate “J.O. Sullivan Founder’s Reserve” ($290) a tribute to James O’Neil Sullivan who founded the modern winery in 1972; with merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and petit verdot; tightly focused structure yields to concentrated dark currant and plum, dried herb, savory spice and cedar, with a silky palate 

Blends

Hamel Family Wines. From a leading organic and biodynamic producer, two Sonoma Valley special vineyard reserve wines ($160), each blends cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc: 2018 Nuns Canyon Vineyard – high elevation site, concentrated wild berry, black plum and licorice, savory accents, rich yet graceful, balanced with firm structure; 2018 Hamel Family Ranch – juicy dark berries, mineral and chocolate notes, hints of anise and a cedary element; full bodied, yet supple 

2019 Brandlin “Henry’s Keep” ($110) with malbec, petit verdot and cabernet franc; similar in many ways to the Cabernet above but more complex with slightly more oak and concentration, yet a silky finish 

2016 Sequoia Grove “Cambium” ($150) another winery established in the 1970s in the heart of Rutherford; blend of the winery’s best lots; with cabernet franc and petit verdot; bold red berries and cassis, with touches of fragrant, mocha, licorice, earth and oak, with a powerful structure 

2018 Chalk Hill “Estate Red” ($85) a selection of the best lots of grapes grown on the estate’s steep, hillside vineyards located in the appellation of the same name in Sonoma; cabernet sauvignon with malbec, petit verdot and carménère; rich with flamboyant black fruits, tobacco, baking spices, bay leaf, in a full-bodied frame and lush new oak, finishing with soft tannins