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DRINK BEAUJOLAIS TO CELEBRATE CHANGING OF THE SEASON

Rich Mauro The Peoples Palate

Rich Mauro The Peoples PalateIf it’s been a while since you had a glass of Beaujolais, now is the time to rediscover this refreshing red. Beaujolais is what we wine writers call “accessible;” it’s food friendly; and one of the best values around. It’s also an ideal wine to celebrate the harvest and coming of fall, which also signals its candidacy for your Thanksgiving dinner.

Beaujolais comes from the so-named French region north of the city of Lyon. The only legally approved red grape is gamay and the traditional vinification technique is the whole bunch fermentation process called carbonic maceration. The characteristic feature of this uncommon type of vinification is what is called intra-cellular fermentation, where fermentation occurs within the berries in an anaerobic – oxygen free – atmosphere.

This combination yields wines known for a distinctive flavor profile of fresh, mostly bright red fruits, with floral, herbal and mineral notes, and lively acidity. As a bonus, most are moderate alcohol (12.5% to 13%). The wines are best served slightly chilled and, as I suggested, they are great with food, especially bistro-style cooking and the earthy dishes of the season.

Beaujolais Nouveau, the fresh, quaffable celebration red released every year on the third Thursday of November, is probably the best known wine from the region and I did enjoy the 2011 Georges Duboeuf ($11). But it is the “regular’ Beaujolais that interests me most. I’ve recently enjoyed several good ones from the highly touted 2009 vintage and a few from the nearly as good 2010 vintage.

One of the best vintages in memory, the 2009 vintage grapes achieved ripeness but also higher alcohol, though still lower than the typical California wine. The best still achieve balance, with generous fruit and notable richness and complexity but more structure. 2010 generally was picked later than usual and yielded more typically refreshing wines – quite crisp, ripe and forward fruity.

Wines labeled simply “Beaujolais” come from vineyards in the southern half of the region and typically are light and fruity. They emulate the simple, exuberant style most often associated with Beaujolais. Next in the quality hierarchy is “Beaujolais-Villages” indicating wines blended from vineyards near specifically authorized villages in the central area of the region. These wines generally show more character.

A reliable option here is the 2009 Beaujolais-Villages ($13) from the great Burgundy négociant Louis Jadot. This wine shows a typically lighter but fleshy character with touches of licorice and lively red fruits. Also look for the 2009 Domaine de la Madone ($14) produced by the Bererd family from vineyards with steep slopes, old vines, and low yields that provide fresh and nicely concentrated juice, with good acidity.

Next try a wine from one of the ten most important villages (or “cru” located in the hilly northern half of the region): Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, Chénas, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Régnié, and Saint-Amour. Here, a great place to start is with the “Flower Label” wines of négociant Georges Dubeouf, probably the most respected and certainly the most widely available purveyor. I recently enjoyed Duboeuf’s 2010 well-packed Brouilly ($15) and juicy, welcoming Fleurie ($16).

There also are single estate Beaujolais that are a special treat for their distinctiveness. A good example from Duboeuf is the 2010 Morgon “Jean Descombes” ($17) – quite full and rich, yet balanced and velvety. Another excellent choice is the 2009 “Domaine de la Voûte des Crozes” ($19). Nicole Chanrion produces this Côte de Brouilly by blending several old vine lots. Its intense red berry fruit is offset with spicy herbs and modest tannin.

In some ways, an even more impressive example is the 2009 Cuvee Traditionelle Vielles Vignes ($18) byPierre-Marie Chermette, proprietor of “Domaine du Vissoux.” As suggested in the name, a traditional winemaking approach using grapes from old vines yielded a wine with character well beyond what is expected from its simple Beaujolais designation.

From another estate worth seeking out, this one in Fleurie, is the 2009 “Clos de la Roilette” ($20). The Coudert family owns a small parcel on an eastern facing slope that yields wine with more aging ability than most Beaujolais. It’s admirably complex, with mixed herbs and spices complementing dark fruits and a sleek texture.

Finally, a rarity I must recommend: a white Beaujolais, the 2010 Domaine des Terres Dorées Beaujolais Blanc ($16). From his estate in the south just north of Lyon, owner and winemaker Jean-Paul Brun produces a number of top reds but it is this unique Chardonnay that demands attention. Wonderful citrus, melon and tropical fruit are enhanced with delicate minerality and good structure. It will stand up to any other French or California Chardonnay at twice (maybe even three times) the price.

So, the basic theme here is incredible value. Also, with a couple of notable exceptions, the best usually come from small, artisan, family-owned estates. But most of all, it’s Joie de vivre – the joy of living that this region exemplifies.

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CELEBRATE COLORADO WINES!

It’s been a good year for Colorado Wine.

For the first time since the repeal of Prohibition, Colorado wineries reported more than one million liters of wine to the Colorado Department of Revenue, an increase of 10 percent over the previous year. Over the past five years, production has increased 70 percent and Colorado wines’ market share, though still comparatively small, has grown 30 percent.

Mt. Garfield & the Bookcliffs Overlook the Grand Valley

Doug Caskey, executive director of the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board noted, “In the face of a small, difficult harvest in 2010 [production down one-third from 2009] and ongoing economic uncertainty, our wineries continue to expand.”

There are now 100 licensed wineries (compared to six in 1990 and 64 in 2006) in Colorado.  Front Range wineries contributed 41 percent of the wine volume reported to the Department of Revenue, while the wineries in the Grand Valley American Viticultural Area (along the Colorado River between Palisade and Grand Junction) accounted for 47 percent.  Eighty percent of the grapes grown in Colorado come from the Grand Valley AVA, though grapes also are grown in Delta, Montrose, Montezuma, Fremont, Pueblo, Boulder, Larimer, Weld and Kit Carson counties.

"Divinity" by The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey

And you can find wineries located pretty much all over the state. At last count, the Grand Valley on the Western Slope is home to 24 wineries surrounding the cities of Palisade and Grand Junction, while Delta and Montrose counties to the south, including the West Elks AVA, hosts 19 more. Surprisingly, there also are five producers further south in the state’s Four Corners area. And there are even 12 more wineries and tasting rooms scattered throughout our Rocky Mountains. On the Front Range, there are nine more wineries and tasting rooms dotted around Colorado Springs and Cañon City. Finally, in the Denver/Boulder/Ft. Collins region, wine hunters can choose from 38 wineries and tasting rooms.

Around the state there are now several well worth the trip wine festivals that offer fun opportunities to experience Colorado wines throughout the year. In the Grand Valley, the 20th Annual Colorado Mountain Winefest, the state’s premier wine festival, was just completed. And the Mountain Winefest organizers successfully hosted the first annual Colorado Winefest held last June at The Shops at Northfield Stapleton in Denver.

A Celebration of Premier Colorado Wines was an elegant tasting event held two days earlier at the Governor’s Residence. The event featured wines given the awards from the Colorado-only wine competition judged by national and local wine experts under the auspices of the American Wine Society.

There also are two great Colorado wine festivals off the I-25 Corridor south of Denver. The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey in Cañon City just celebrated the 10th Annual Harvest Fest and Winemaker’s Dinner. The Ninth Annual Manitou Springs Colorado Wine Festival was held in June. In addition to excellent wine and food, these are special community events anxiously anticipated each year.

As the Colorado industry has grown into a fine adolescence, as I have heard Caskey describe it, it seems the challenge for its journey to adulthood is to find an identity. One of the most interesting things to me about the Colorado wine

Ag Commissioner John Salazar and Gov. John Hickenlooper Survey the Bounty

industry is that most growers and wineries for a long time focused on the “Big Three” French varietals – cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and chardonnay. Merlot is the most widely planted red grape in the state, with cabernet sauvignon close behind, but plantings of syrah, cabernet franc and pinot noir are increasing, as wines from these varieties show real promise. As for the whites, riesling is now the most widely grown, which makes sense to me, since I’ve long thought it made the state’s best wine. After chardonnay, there are small but significant amounts of gewürztraminer, viognier and pinot gris.

As for the future, with the diversity of soils and climate in Colorado, I expect to see further experimentation. And as vintners learn more about which grapes grow best where and about what has made other wine-producing region successful (maybe a topic for another column), I expect the already improving quality will advance even further. Finally, let’s hope more restaurants will find room on their wine lists for Colorado wines

And you can help promote Colorado wine during the fourth annual Regional Wine Week. The blog DrinkLocalWine is hosting the event from October 9 through October 15. Wine writers, bloggers and consumers are encouraged to share information about wine from what organizers call “The Other 47” states (no California, Washington or Oregon). Share a story or personal anecdote about a Colorado wine, winery, wine region, or wine event. The only catch is you have to do it in 47 words. For more information about Regional Wine Week and the contest, check out www.drinklocalwine.com.

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GREAT AMERICAN BEER FESTIVAL CELEBRATES THIRTY YEARS OF GREAT AMERICAN CRAFT BEER

The 30th Great American Beer Festival (GABF), held a few weeks ago at the Colorado Convention Center, stands as a testament to the intrinsic appeal of craft brewed beer … and to the vision and hard work of the people at the Brewers Association (which organizes it) and to the craft brewers that have proliferated across the country over these years.

While most everything else in the American economy is contracting, it seems the craft beer world just keeps expanding. Attendance, volunteers, and the number of breweries, beers on the floor, beers in the competition, categories judged (83), beer styles (134) and judges all increased! The GABF remains the largest commercial beer competition in the world, with 3,930 beers, an 11 percent increase over last year, submitted from 526 breweries for 248 medals.

Colorado brewers brought home 44 medals, second only to California. Salute the following breweries:

  • Amicas, Salida
  • Backcountry, Frisco
  • Blue Moon, Denver
  • Boulder Beer Co., Boulder
  • Bull & Bush, Denver
  • C.B. & Potts, Ft. Collins and Westminster
  • Colorado Boy, Ridgway, CO
  • Copper Kettle, Denver
  • Coors, Golden
  • Crabtree, Greeley
  • Del Norte, Denver
  • Denver Beer Co., Denver
  • Dostal Alley, Central City
  • Dry Dock, Aurora
  • Durango, Durango
  • Equinox, Ft. Collins
  • Funkwerks, Ft. Collins
  • Glenwood Canyon, Glenwood Springs
  • Grimm Brothers, Loveland
  • Mountain Sun, Boulder
  • New Belgium, Fort Collins
  • Odell”s, Ft. Collins
  • Oskar Blues, Longmont
  • Rock Bottom, Westminster
  • SandLot, Denver
  • Ska, Durango
  • Strange Brewing Co., Denver
  • Upslope, Boulder
  • Wynkoop, Denver

It was particularly fun beer to try a “new” beer style this year: pumpkin beer! Obviously tailored for fall, these earthy, deeply flavored beers were most interesting. And Colorado did extremely well in the category with Upslope won gold and Bull & Bush won bronze.

I was glad to see the festival continued its emphasis on matching beer with food. This was prominently on display in the more intimate Farm-to-Table Pavilion where chefs created dishes using Colorado products to pair with selected beers from around the country. Even some of the Colorado farmers and ranchers were there to talk about their products.

As a “wine guy,” I’m well versed in the affinity between wine and food. So, I have been pleased to see craft brewers in recent years put more effort into making beers that are best drunk with food. The Farm-to-Table Pavilion presented a fine opportunity to discover how much local foods rendered by skilled chefs have in common with craft beer from small and independent breweries. This innovative event is destined to become a perennial highlight of the GABF.

Also impressive was that the festival continued its efforts to remain on the cutting edge of sustainability initiatives. In partnership with ZeroHero (a Colorado company that works across the country reducing the impact of major events and festivals through zero-waste management, alternative energy and education), the Colorado Convention Center, Centerplate Catering, Governors Energy Office, Colorado Carbon Fund, A1 Organics, and Renewable Choice Energy, the GABF worked to reduce its carbon footprint and come as close to a zero-waste event as possible.

Here are some of the programs implemented at the festival:

  • At least 85% of the waste to be diverted away from the landfill
  • Most disposable items were recyclable or compostable
  • All glass and plastic bottles, cans, paper and cardboard to be recycled
  • Use of styrofoam at food outlets in the event was banned
  • Bulk condiments used at concession areas
  • All compost processed by local company
  • Carbon production offset by purchasing wind credits
  • House lights kept at 50% during the show

Great beer, good food, and helping the environment, what more could we ask?

Well, how about continued growth in the craft beer industry. According to the Brewers Association, the craft beer industry in 2010 achieved growth rates of 11% by volume and 12% by dollars. And by August 2011, there were 1829 breweries operating, the most in 100 years, with at least 760 more in planning.

Let’s all raise a glass … or two!

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AMERICAN BORDEAUX-STYLE RED BLENDS WORTH A TASTE

Napa vineyards peoples palate rich mauro

Napa vineyards peoples palate rich mauroGiven the international prestige of Bordeaux, it is not surprising that other winemakers would have an interest in imitating that region’s successful winemaking formula. The Bordeaux tradition of blending different grape varieties to create a complete, more multidimensional wine has long captivated the imagination of winemakers and the taste buds of wine drinkers.

This is also true in California, even though varietally labeled wines have dominated the market. Certainly, winemakers and wine drinkers have had and continue to have something of a love affair with Cabernet Sauvignon. And many still appreciate a good Merlot. But most of the wines labeled as such are likely to include at least a small percentage of the other, as well as the other traditional Bordeaux varieties: cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot.

In this column, I focus on wines that are intentionally Bordeaux-style blends, not varietal wines with dollops of the other varieties. Most of these wines carry a proprietary name, although some are labeled “Meritage” (a designation established for such California blends in the late 1980s and pronounced like “heritage”). While Cabernet Sauvignon usually is the dominant component, the other varieties will show up in larger quantities than for a varietally labeled wine.

And these wines may be growing in popularity. In my research, I found a market analysis of wine trends reprting that the “red blends/Meritage wines grew by 14% over all price categories. It was the fastest growing varietal category” over the year.

My favorite wine from my recent tasting came from Seven Hills Winery in the Walla Walla Valley. When Casey and Vicky McClellan founded the winery in 1988, it was only the fifth in the area that now boasts over 100 producers. And Seven Hills has become one of Washington state’s most highly regarded wineries crafting exceptional merlot, cabernet sauvignon and syrah, riesling and pinot gris.

The Bordeaux blend is labeled “Pentad.” The 2006 ($50) combines 65% cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, carmenère, cabernet franc and malbec from Walla Walla vineyards. It is a great example of the type, full-bodied, rich, andcomplex. Abundant fruit of dark berries and currants are accented with spicy herbal notes and balancing acidity.

The entry from the Dry Creek Vineyard was nearly as good. Founded by David Stare in 1972, this is one of the modern day pioneers of Dry Creek Valley wine. While a variety of wines are made, the winery built its reputation on Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel. But don’t ignore its Meritage wine “The Mariner.” The 2006 ($40) is 50% cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, petit verdot from Dry Creek Valley vineyards. Its ripe dark fruits (plum, black cherry, currant, berries) meld with layers of black licorice, mineral and spice. It has a somewhat dry and rustic feel, though, that is a nice counterpoint.

Not far behind and a particularly good value is Bennett Lane’s “Maximus Red Feasting Wine.” Bennett Lane is the project of Randy and Lisa Lynch, owners of a successful marketing company and a NASCAR West team, who purchased the property in 2002. The 2006 Maximus ($35) blends 64% cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, malbec, cabernet franc and petit verdot from vineyard sources up and down the Napa Valley. It is fairly full-bodied with firm tannins and shows deep fruit, including currant and blackberry but also hints of wood, licorice and cocoa.

Finally, a pleasant surprise came from Ironstone Vineyards. Owned by the Kautz family, who were long time farmers in the Sierra Foothills between Sacramento and Lake Tahoe, the family decided in 1988 to make their own wines. The 2006 Reserve Meritage ($45), which is 80% cabernet sauvignon plus equal parts merlot and petite verdot, opens with intense leafy notes (mint, forest, tobacco). This is followed by black cherry and blackberry flavors delivered in a dry, firm structure.

Try any of these wines and you will get a good sense of the balance and complexity that can be achieved through the craft of blending different varietals. And you will taste the synergy winemakers can achieve in creating a product that embodies the classic sentiment of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts.

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NOTHING PETITE ABOUT PETITE SIRAH

These days I find consumers are more interested in experiencing wines with unfamiliar flavor profiles and more reasonable prices. If you are looking for full flavored wines that provide a lot of wine for the money, consider Petite Sirah. I don’t think you will be disappointed.

The roots of the petite sirah vine can be traced back to the south of France in the 1880s, where Dr. Francois Durif propagated a crossing of syrah and the obscure variety peloursin. The resulting vine naturally was designated “durif.” Although the grape never caught on in France, it was brought to California and became valued as a blending grape to give wines structure, body and color. In fact, many of the generically labeled red wines produced during the following century contained large amounts of petite sirah. Now, DNA testing has proven that the vast majority of what has been known by that name in California is actually durif.

Concannon Vineyard is credited as the first California winery to bottle a varietal Petite Sirah in 1961. Foppiano Vineyards, another Petite Sirah proponent, followed soon after. Interestingly, these prescient families staked their reputations on a grape that had declined (from about 7500 acres in the 1930s to around 4500 during the 1960s). It paid off because acreage subsequently grew to a peak of about 14,000 acres by 1976, as the grape often was used to improve the quality of many generic red wine blends. Then the grape went into decline again during the 1980s and 1990s and acreage dropped to around 2400 in 1995. Since then, though, many vintners again have come to realize the quality possible from the grape and plantings almost tripled by 2005 and reached about 7500 acres in 2010.

Wineries up and down the state now are making varietal Petite Sirah wines. And a promotional organization, P. S. I Love You (www.psiloveyou.org), which was founded in 2002 with 39 charter members, has more than doubled to 81 winery members in 2011. I think it’s fair to say that organization and its founding director, Jo Diaz deserves much of the credit for the grape’s growing popularity.

Despite its name and origins, petite sirah grape is not a lesser version of syrah. It is a distinct variety that happens to have syrah as one of its parents. Thus, it can display a similar flavor profile to syrah – dark berries, tobacco, leather, earth, mineral and pepper, with an ability to age well. But there are differences – it often produces bigger, denser, more rustic wines that generally age quite well.

Petite Sirah also is a good companion for full flavored foods, including red meats, game, strong cheeses, mushroom dishes, stews and the like. It also would be a fine companion for grilled foods and barbeque. One serving note, though. These wines generally are so full flavored and tannic they will stay fresh for several hours and, in some cases, even a few days after opening a bottle.

I wrote my first review of Petite Sirah in 2003. Although most of the wines were quite good and showed nice dark berry fruit, they also revealed the rough edges and strong tannins of the grape’s rustic nature. I often appreciate rustic wines but many took it too far. With my second tasting report in 2007, I noticed more refinement in the wines but many were still big and tough, a bit exhausting to drink. This time, I was impressed that as a group (20 producers and 24 wines tasted blind), the wines showed more abundant fruit, more complexity, smoother textures, more manageable tannins, and overall better balance. My favorites most clearly reflected these qualities on my palate.

To the extent any of my tastings are representative of California Petite Sirah in general, I perceive this as a positive evolution in style and quality. My favorites most clearly reflected these qualities on my palate. One thing that hasn’t changed, though: Petite Sirah still delivers a lot of character for the money.

I have to say the biggest surprise of my tasting is that Miro Tcholakov made my two favorite wines. His 2008 Miro Cellars ($30) uses fruit from Rockpile, a northern Sonoma County appellation. And tons of fruit there is, along with subtle complexities like licorice and a concentrated, yet elegant impact. The only downside is there are just 50 cases. Miro also is responsible for the 2009 Trentadue Alexander Valley Estate ($18). I really loved this wine’s berry pie fruit, silky texture and powdery tannins. I should add I also liked the reserve style 2009 Trentadue “La Storia” ($28), which showed more woodsy, tobacco notes but also strong acids that suggest a long life.

And there were other good wines from Sonoma. The 2007 Field Stone “Staten Family Reserve” ($35) from and Alexander Valley vineyard planted in 1894 that is now farmed organically and sustainably, was rather brooding and tough at first but eventually yielded to time and revealed deep fruit to go along with the strong tannins. From one of the earliest Petite Sirah advocates, the Foppiano Russian River Valley ($20) had nice blueberry fruit accented with cinnamon and tobacco aromas and toasty, peppery flavors.

And then there was another surprise. Two of my other favorites came from Cabernet country, the Napa Valley: 2008 R & B Cellars “Pizzicato” ($28) and 2008 Ballentine “Fig Tree Vineyard” ($25). Both wines come from single vineyards and both are concentrated, tannic wines that would benefit from cellaring. The R & B adds black licorice, pine and tobacco notes, while the Ballentine goes more to ripe berries and spice.

Other northern California wine regions also were well represented. From El Dorado County in the Sierra Foothills, the 2007 Lava Cap “Granite Hill Vineyard Reserve” ($30) began big and brash with touches of mint and cinnamon but later opened up to reveal lovely sweet fruit. From nearby Lodi, the 2007 McCay ($24) seemed reticent to show its fruit at first. Burnt notes and tight tannins dominated the wine but that dissipated and later the wine showed good rasiny fruit and hints of cinnamon and mint. By contrast, the 2007 Shannon Ridge ($24) from Lake County, although finishing with tough tannins, immediately displayed its intense blueberry fruit. Despite considerable size and weight, it had an enticing texture.

I also enjoyed two wines from Paso Robles. A 2007 Clayhouse Red Cedar Vineyard ($25) offered spice and coffee in the nose but lots of fruit and soft tannins on the palate. The 2007 Vina Robles “Jardine Estate” ($26) was dominated by dry forest and spicy herb notes but presented a nice core of red fruit with black licorice followed by a hint of bitterness.

Finally, there also were several notable values.

• 2009 The Crusher “Grower’s Selection” ($14). One of three wines in my tasting from Don Sebastiani & Sons, a company that offers an extensive portfolio of wines made with grapes from numerous regions in the state. This one benefits from Clarksburg fruit that yields tasty currant and raisin fruit balanced with soft tannins. Their 2008 Smoking Loon California ($9) is a bit too syrupy for me but that is offset with tobacco notes and fresh tannins. It should be a crowd pleaser.
• 2008 Bogle ($11). This winery, well known for its value priced wines, has been producing Petite Sirah since 1978. Juicy black fruits are offset with minty peppery notes.
• 2007 Parducci (Mendocino) ($11) is made with organically grown grapes from the oldest winery in Mendocino. Parducci is deeply committed to sustainability from the vineyard to the winery and has produced a juicy wine with fresh fruit and admirable intensity.
• 2008 Concannon “Conservancy” ($15). This winery, founded in the Livermore Valley 1883, has sourced the grapes for this wine only from growers who have placed their land in a legal trust that protects the vineyard from urban develop. That’s especially good for consumers because this wine is full flavored and large scaled.

Although Cabernet Sauvignon is by far still the most popular red wine, producers and consumers alike have become interested in alternatives both for more reasonable prices and to experience different flavor profiles. If you haven’t tried it lately, I suggest you consider Petite Sirah. If you are looking for full flavored wines that generally provide a lot of wine for the money, I don’t think you will be disappointed.

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TRY WASHINGTON RIESLING TO BEAT THE HEAT

rich mauro the peoples palate

rich mauro the peoples palateI’m sitting here writing this column on the seventeenth straight 90°+ day glad that I have a glass of Riesling next to me to keep me refreshed.

I think the riesling grape makes the greatest white wines in the world. Especially in Germany and Alsace, it produces aromatic wines of bracing acidity and potentially long life. Typically, fragrant, floral aromas lead into fresh green apple and stone fruit – pear, peach, or apricot – and occasionally pineapple. Most intriguing, there often is a distinctive mineral component. Cooler climates in Australia, Canada, California and Oregon also produce good examples. But today I’m drinking and writing about Washington State Riesling.

You may be surprised to read that riesling was one of the first varieties grown in Washington and still is one of the state’s favorite wines. St. Michelle Wine Estates is the dominant player in the Washington wine industry. And the company has been in the forefront in establishing Riesling as the state’s premier white wine grape. And with Chateau St. Michelle, Columbia Crest, and Snoqualmie wineries it is the largest Riesling producer in the world.

Chateau St. Michelle, which was established in 1967 and pioneered contemporary fine wine making in Washington, is the state’s largest producer, yet consistently delivers quality at remarkable prices. And there is a style to fit your preference. The 2010 Dry ($9) sports refreshing peach notes. The 2010 Riesling ($9) is just slightly sweet, with juicy apple and pear. The 2010 Harvest Select, ($10) is quite sweet but balanced with crisp pear and apple.

Ever since its opening 35 years ago, it seems Columbia Crest perennially is recognized for providing outstanding value. This certainly true of the 2010 Grand Estates ($11) which impressed me with its juicy apple and pear fruit delivered with lively acidity that balances a slightly honeyed sweetness.

I also enjoyed the two Snoqualmie wines I tasted. The 2010 Winemaker’s Select ($10) is fairly sweet but crisp and refreshing and bursting with pear and apricot fruit. Snoqualmie has distinguished itself as a leader in sustainable farming and winemaking in Washington. The 2009 “Naked” Columbia Valley ($12) is made with certified organically grown grapes in a certified organic facility. It’s bright off-dry apricot fruit is off set with mineral and spice.

St. Michelle’s premier Riesling and arguably America’s best Riesling is Eroica, a collaboration with Germany’s renowned Dr. Loosen winery. The 2009 ($24), its tenth vintage, harmonizes succulent peach with crisp citrus, spice and mineral notes. As good as this outstanding wine is now, it will improve in the cellar.

Not far behind St. Michelle in production and influence is Pacific Rim. The brand was created by Randall Grahm of California’s Bonny Doon Vineyard in 1992 using Washington fruit and was sold to new owners who established it as its own winery in Washington in 2006. I believe these folks when they say they are passionate about Riesling, as 90% of their production comes from that grape. They make countless bottlings, including single vineyards, an organic Riesling and the three tasted for this report: a floral, citrus, 2010 Dry; a 2010 Riesling with slightly sweet pear and apple; and a luscious 2010 Sweet that revealed tropical and peach fruit. All are a wallet friendly $10.

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, Hogue Cellars is another large Washington winery that is known for great values. For 30 years, Hogue has made an extensive line of well-priced wines delivering good quality. Their 2009 Columbia Valley Riesling ($10) did not disappoint. Juicy green apple and a touch of orange come through with a nice balance of cleansing acidity and medium sweetness.

Finally, I must emphasize that numerous smaller wineries make excellent Riesling worth seeking out. Such as Seven Hills Winery, where Casey and Vicky McClellan have been making wine from their Walla Walla home since 1988. Casey crafts exceptional merlot, cabernet sauvignon and syrah, often considered at the top of the Washington quality ladder. He also makes excellent Riesling and Pinot Gris. I was extremely impressed with the 2009 Seven Hills Columbia Valley ($14). It was made in a refreshing low alcohol style that is slightly sweet but bursting with juicy apple, citrus and pear with an enticing mineral note.

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COULÉE DE SERRANT SEMINAR EXPLORES THE MEANING OF TERROIR AND AUTHENTICITY

What is special, even unique about wine? What distinguishes wine from other beverages, both alcoholic and non? How do we determine quality in wine? Why does wine matter?

To me these were the essential questions at the heart of a fascinating reserve wine tasting seminar I attended at the recent Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. The seminar was billed as a discussion with Nicolas Joly, owner of Coulée de Serrant, and featured a vertical tasting of his iconic Loire Valley wine, Clos de la Coulée de Serrant.

I describe the wines as “iconic” because Coulée de Serrant is an almost 900 year-old vineyard originally planted by Cistercian monks; because the tiny 17 acre vineyard is its own appellation growing only (the little known) chenin blanc within the larger (but also little known) Savennières appellation; because Nicolas Joly is arguably the leading proponent of biodynamic viticulture; and because the wines regularly receive high praise and high prices (around $90-$100, something pretty rare for wines made from chenin blanc); but also because Joly, his methods, and his wines are revered by many but also invite controversy.

Bobby Stuckey (Sommelier at Frasca Food and Wine) introduced Mr. Joly as a visionary who has spent more time thinking about and practicing biodynamic viticulture than anyone. Mr. Joly began by saying, “It’s all about how energy becomes matter,” a statement that succinctly encapsulates the biodynamic philosophy. He added that the main goal is to fully express the place, in this case the Coulée de Serrant vineyard. Hence, the importance of hat the French call terroir.

That terroir is the middle of the Loire Valley, the region of Anjou-Saumur (just to the west of Angers) where the appellation Savennières (a little further southwest) is the epicenter for dry chenin blanc. The steep, south facing slopes of volcanic soils infused with schist (coarse-grained, layered, mineral and crystal heavy metamorphic rocks) yield wines that, as Karen MacNeil (in “The Wine Bible”) writes, “taste like nothing else.”

That’s why Joly emphasized he is a strong supporter of the French “appellation controlee” system, the whole point of which is to “guarantee” that wines produced in a particular place uniquely reflect that place of origin. It’s also why he says, “I don’t only want a good wine but also a true wine.”

A Savennières typically asserts itself with tight acidity that grips the palate on entry. This and an impressive intensity of fruit enables these wines to live longer than almost any other white wine and even most red wines. The most common descriptors include quince, chamomile, honey, cream, citrus, and stone.

To succeed at his goal to be true to the terroir, Joly explained, requires understanding the farm as a biologically diverse system (even part of larger systems – the earth, solar system) and trusting those natural systems to facilitate the operation of their various components to grow the best grapes possible in a given place.

Once I grasped this fundamental orientation, it made sense when Joly said he is “not a winemaker but a nature assistant.” I’ve often heard the statement that “great wine is made in the vineyard.” At times, it has seemed rehearsed, designed to tell consumers and wine journalists what they expect to hear. Not so with Joly.

So how is the wine “made” in the vineyard? The central tenant of biodynamics, as Joly tells it, is to channel the energy of the vineyard to express itself through the vines into the grapes. As a caretaker of the process, the vigneron’s (or wine grower) role is to assist that energy flow to enable the grapes to achieve optimum balance and ripeness.

Similar to organic agriculture, the vines are tended without pesticides, herbicides or synthetic fertilizers and bioengineering and irradiation are off limits. Mr. Joly explained these destroy the “living agents” in the soil. But, like other practitioners of this approach, Joly will employ homeopathic or herbal preparations that are made using substances found in nature and are intended to act on certain aspects of the plant or growth cycle to release the flow of energy.

Then Joly said something that would be heretical in most oenology schools (and caused nervous giggling in the audience): “If the right decisions are made in the vineyard, there actually isn’t much to do in the cellar.” It made me think of an analogy to the world of high fidelity (vinyl) music reproduction, where audiophiles often point out “true” sound quality depends first on the quality of the phonograph (and especially the cartridge/stylus). In other words, if you don’t get it right at the beginning, you have to engage all manner of adjustments down the line to cover up the imperfections.

Mr. Joly continued, with high quality fruit, all he need do is press the grapes; keep the juice in neutral wood barrels; rely on indigenous yeast for fermentation; and pretty much let it all alone until March, only monitoring development and maybe stirring the lees occasionally. Then, he generally does one racking (transferring the wine from one barrel to another leaving sediment behind) and one light filtration right before bottling.

When all is said and done, though, it still comes down to what’s in the bottle. And to me, the eight wines I tasted (admittedly not blind) were a revelation. Joly told us to not expect Clos de la Coulée de Serrant to taste the same each vintage. And the wines in the tasting didn’t. Sure, there were similarities. Each wine to varying degrees showed strong acidity, luscious texture, honey, and an abundance of mostly stone fruits and citrus. Maybe that was the vineyard speaking.

But each wine did have its unique characteristics. An intriguing salty sea breeze quality reminiscent of Spanish Manzanilla Sherry distinguished the 2009. 2008 was the most highly focused. 2007 revealed tangy butterscotch notes, while for 2006 it was caramel apple. I found the 2004 to have the most intense fruit and honey. For 2003, it was the waxy, lanolin-like texture. 2001 was really different showing fennel and tobacco. Finally, orange notes emerged from the 1999, a 12 year-old white wine still incredibly vibrant!

Some have criticized biodynamics as too mystical and weak scientifically (particularly with regard to the more esoteric practices) but Joly argues it requires a deeper understanding of nature and of farming than assumed with the conventional scientific wisdom. Regardless, the most important benefit of biodynamics, at least as practiced by farmers like Nicolas Joly, is it also gives a guarantee of truthfulness in farming and “winemaking.” You know what you are getting, pure, unadulterated produce that is born of a certain place and no other. And we as consumers should be thankful for committed souls like Nicolas Joly for caring enough to assist nature on our behalf.

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FOOD & WINE PRESENTS ANOTHER AMAZING “CLASSIC” IN ASPEN

For the 29th year in a row, Aspen was party central for the food and beverage industries as the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen and its 5000+ attendees took over for town for four days in June.

On the first night, the trade group Wines from Spain sponsored a huge barbecue hosted by celebrity chef Jose Andres that, besides great food, featured many other celebrity chefs, including such luminaries as Mario Batali and Jacques Pepin. I tasted too many good Spanish wines to mention here but I especially enjoyed a 2005 Bodegas Roda “Roda 1” Reserva ($60) and 2007 Condado de Haza ($30).

Later, I fought my way through the crowds at Jimmy’s restaurant to visit with folks from Ferrer Wine Estates and taste wine with Gloria Ferrer winemaker Bob Iantosca. Gloria Ferrer is the Spain-based family’s Sonoma Carneros winery. I enjoyed the delightful bubbly “Va di Vi” ($22) and especially the 2007 Pinot Noir ($22).

We began Friday night at a reception hosted by Christina Mariani of Banfi Vintners, the esteemed Tuscan winery and international wine importer, and Purple Wine Company, which has a portfolio of several good value California wines. I enjoyed the 2009 Bex Riesling ($10) and 2008 Four Vines “Old Vines” Zinfandel ($12) but Chile’s 2006 Emilana “Coyam” ($30), an innovative blend of syrah, merlot, carmenere, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, and mourvedre made with biodynamic grapes, had the most impact on me.

Next, a stop back over to Jimmy’s where I sipped 12-, 18-, and 25-year-old Macallan Scotches with two of America’s greatest chefs: Thomas Keller and Daniel Boulud (okay, I was just standing next to them). Macallan’s smooth flavorful Scotches are among the world’s best but honestly these were just a prelude to the next party.

This was an exclusive, electrifying bash hosted by Voli Light Vodka at the hip Sky Hotel that featured a much anticipated performance by internationally known pop star Pitbull. Guests lingered in the lounge and gathered around the pool sipping cocktails made with the vodkas, which include Lemon, Orange Vanilla, Raspberry Cocoa, Espresso Vanilla, and the original Lyte. And Pitbull gave an energized performance covering several of his hits, which include collaborations with Enrique Iglesias, Jennifer Lopez, Usher, and Ne-Yo. The Latin rapper is a major investor in and the official spokesman for Voli Light. What’s unique about the Voli Light line is its low-calorie vodkas, which average 25 to 45 percent fewer calories than other vodkas.

And there’s more! The next stop was an event hosted by Penfolds of Australia, where the amazing 2003 and 2006 Grange Shiraz (price range $250-$500 per bottle) understandably received the most attention. But I have to say the real discoveries were the 2006 Yattarna Chardonnay (a mere $115) and the 2004 RWT Shiraz ($82). The night concluded with a visit to a gathering hosted by the importer Wilson Daniels. I couldn’t pass up an opportunity to taste the iconic Champagne Salon. The ethereal 1997 Blanc de Blancs, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger ($500) actually is the current vintage.

Five parties in one night! Good thing Aspen is a walking friendly city.

There also were numerous celebrity sightings in the Grand Tasting Tent, where producers from all over the world set up to display their wares. Chefs Giada de Laurentiis, Marcus Samuelson, Rick Bayless, Tom Colicchio, David Chang, Art Smith, and John Besh were among the most notable.

Of course there also was a cornucopia of foods and fine wines. I was glad I stopped to experience Oregon’s Domaine Serene collaboration with Chef Sam Talbott (of Imperial #9, a sustainable seafood restaurant in New York’s Mondrian Hotel SoHo) – a pairing of the 2007 Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir ($58) with amazingly fresh raw tuna with grapefruit on toast.

I also was impressed with several Italian wines.

• 2008 Querciabella Mangrana (sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon merlot, $20)
• 2008 Querciabella Chianti Classico (sangiovese, $30)
• 2007 Querciabella Camartina “Super Tuscan” (cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese, $120)
• 2007 Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico (sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon, $65)
• 2004 Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino (sangiovese, $60)

This column can only touch on a relative handful of all those tasted but you’ll get the idea. If you’re intrigued, check out foodandwine.com and consider joining the festivities next year!

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Watch the Live Webcast with TGIC’s Shawn Loggins at the Food & Wine Classic

I enjoyed the tasting with TGIC’s Shawn Loggins (VP, Sales & Marketing) Very impressive new Malbecs from Argentina’s Kaiken and Syrahs from Star Angel of Paso Robles. Watch and learn, take notes, and if you have it, open a bottle of one of these wines, and taste along.
Tweet your comments @peoplespalate or @TGICImporters
Tune in http://tgicimporters.com/tgics-live-webinar-from-the-aspen-food-and-wine-classic/ and be part of the Aspen Food and Wine Classic festivities virtually!
· Kaiken Corte 2008
· Kaiken Mai 2007
· Star Angel “Aurelio’s Selection” 2008
· Star Angel Syrah 2008
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RED, WHITE AND SUMMER: WINES FOR WARM WEATHER SIPPING

Fresh, Fragrant Whites Are Perfect For Warm Weather

What I like most about spring and summer is the blossoming of aromas and how that signals the awakening of life after the rest of winter.  And a cool white wine is just the compliment for the warmer weather. But not just any white wine and certainly not Chardonnay, which is fine but I’m looking for alternatives that are generally lighter and more refreshing.

For my purposes here, that mostly means the so-called “aromatic whites” Riesling and Muscat. These delightful wines are crisp, fruity, and fragrant. And they are natural matches for the lighter foods of summer. It also means the white Rhone varietals – Viognier, Roussanne, and Marsanne, which admittedly are more “Chardonnay-like” but offer intriguingly different flavor profiles.

For generally reasonable prices, these wines also provide a refreshing combination of acidity and in many cases moderate alcohol – perfect for warm weather. They are great as aperitifs or with food. They are especially good with Asian food but would work well with spicy foods, picnic fare, salads and even simple grilled foods.

I’m one of those who think that, all things considered, riesling makes the greatest white wines in the world. In Germany and Alsace it produces aromatic wines of high acid and, unusual for a white wine, potentially long life. The fragrant, flowery aromas lead into fresh green apple, pear and occasionally peach, apricot, pineapple, or mineral flavors are delivered with bracing acidity.

No Alsatians in my recent tastings but a tasty 2009 Rudolf Müller Riesling from Germany (2009, $10 or $24 3L Octavin) offers good everyday drinking. From Australia, the 2009 Chateau Tanunda Grand Barossa ($16) from a cool climate estate vineyard is a good example of how well this grape can do down under. In the U.S., Washington State is making world class Riesling. A recent favorite is the 2009 Seven Hills Columbia Valley ($14). It is made in a refreshing low alcohol style that is slightly sweet. From California, the 2009 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($12) and 2009 Carmel Road Monterey ($14) also are tasty options.

Much to my pleasant surprise, a recent market report announced that moscato is the fastest growing varietal with sales last year almost doubling. I have long been a fan of Italy’s Moscato d’Asti. This floral, fruity, slightly effervescent wine from the Piedmont is made from the partially fermented juice of white muscat grapes. It is sweet, delightfully aromatic and delicate on the palate, low alcohol (6%) and equally comfortable as an aperitif or a dessert wine.

The 2010 Paolo Saracco Moscato d’Asti ($16) is exemplary of the style from a favorite producer. Camposaldo makes a similarly enjoyable 2010 Moscato ($14) from grapes grown in Lombardy. And what better proof do I need of the grape’s newfound popularity than the delightful 2010 Moscato ($7) I just tasted from none other than Australia’s [yellow tail]. The mass producer actually has done a decent job of imitating Italy’s signature style.

One of California’s leading producers of Rhone-style wines is Santa Barbara’s Zaca Mesa. Zaca Mesa was one of the first vineyards in the region, having been established in the Santa Ynez Valley in the early 1970’s. They have released a 2009 Viognier ($20) that offers honey and loads of exotic fruits and a silky texture with a vibrant finish. Their 2007 Roussanne ($25) deals in apricots and figs laced with zippy acidity, full body and an intriguing waxy texture.

Another fine choice is the 2008 Treana White ($25), from one of the leading Paso Robles grower/winemaking families who here has blended Marsanne and Viognier mostly from Monterey’s esteemed Mer Soleil Vineyard into a juicy wine of honeyed citrus and tropical fruits. Washington also is excelling with Rhine varietals. I was especially impressed with Seven Hills 2009 Viognier Talcott Vineyard ($20). The wine explodes with ripe, juicy peach and honeysuckle, with hints of citrus and stone fruits.

Chenin Blanc, native to the Loire Valley, also is a personal favorite. In California, it is usually produced in a fruity, slightly sweet style, though a few brave souls (like Dry Creek Vineyard) make a dry style inspired by the fine wines of Savennieres. I recently tasted for the first time an innovative chenin blanc blend from Pine Ridge, one of the pioneering wineries in the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley. The winery has a reputation as a master at blending. Its 2009 Chenin Blanc + Viognier ($12) is a unique and uniquely successful combination of Clarksburg chenin blanc and Lodi viognier.

The recommendations above are a good start on the summer white wine search. Next comes a quest for Gewurztraminer, Albarino, Verdejo, Torrontes, Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache Blanc, and Pinot Blanc and other good reasons to look forward to spring and summer.

European (And One South African) Reds For Summer Grilling

Although it’s common to think more about white wines as the weather warms, many of us still enjoy a good red, even in summer. I’ve come across several good candidates to match with the season’s grilled and more casual foods.

A fine place to start, maybe to toast the season, is with a bottle of red bubbly. That’s right, red. I suggest the unique Italian sparkler from the Piedmont region known as Brachetto d’Acqui (signifying first the grape, then the town). The 2010 Rosa Regale ($20) from the highly regarded Banfi family is deeply fruited (cherry, strawberry) and exuberant, with refreshingly low alcohol.

As a wine that is generally best slightly chilled, Beaujolais is the ideal red for warm weather. From the northern French region of the same name, Beaujolais is made using a special whole bunch fermentation process solely with the gamay grape, known for a flavor profile of mostly bright red fruits, floral, herbal and mineral notes, and lively acidity. I’ve recently enjoyed several good ones from the highly touted 2009 vintage. Whichever level you choose, Beaujolais represent s one of the best values around.

For a good introduction to the region sample a wine labeled “Beaujolais-Villages.” These are blended from specifically authorized vineyards in the northern of the region. A reliable option here is the 2009 Louis Jadot ($13), which shows a typically lighter but fleshy character with touches of licorice and lively red fruits.

Next try a wine from one of the ten most important villages (or “cru”). Here, a great place to start is with the “Flower Label” wines of Georges Dubeouf, probably the most respected and widely available producer. A good one is the 2009 Morgon ($14), which has richness and depth not often found with many other crus.

There also are single-vineyard Beaujolais that are a real treat for their distinctiveness. Two more from Duboeuf: 2009 Moulin-a-Vent “Tour du Bief” ($17) – quite full and rich, with many layers – and especially 2009 Fleurie “Domaine des Quatre Vents” ($17) – floral, full of ripe fruit, yet balanced and velvety.

From the southern France region of Rousillon near the border with Spain comes another option, this time a blend of so-called Rhone varietals. The 2008 Chateau de Jau Cotes du Roussillon Villages ($16) combines syrah, mourvedre, carignan, and grenache to produce an easy drinking wine of darker fruits and soft tannins.

This time of year, I’m especially fond of Portuguese table wine. While the region surrounding the Douro River in northern Portugal is famous for Port, table wine from the area has become a go-to choice for excellent value. The wines are made with the same varieties used to make Port and even sourced from the same vineyards as each winery’s Port.

The 2008 Dow’s “Valle do Bomfim” ($12) offers bright mixed berry fruit, spicy intrigue and a balance of structure with mellow tannins. The 2008 Quinta de Roriz “Prazo de Roriz” ($17) delivers deep fruit, mostly black cherry, and an appealing mineral note in a stylish frame that also finishes with soft tannins. It probably shouldn’t be a surprise that the region known for making the great Port wines would emerge as a contender in quality table wines.

Finally, for those of you who insist on a Cabernet Sauvignon, I submit the 2008 Glen Carlou “Grand Classique” ($20). South African wines have improved significantly in recent years and this one, Glen Carlou’s signature red wine, is a really fine example of a Bordeaux-style blend. The addition of merlot, petit verdot, malbec and cabernet franc results in a wine with impressive complexity for the price. Strong black cherry and plum wrapped in an oak blanket are accompanied by touches of tobacco and mint. The velvety texture compliments a tight structure.

Whether it’s a classic cab, a hearty Douro, a bottle of Mediterranean sunshine, a refreshing Beaujolais, or an effervescent Italian, you can’t go wrong with red this summer.