The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

May 27, 2011May 30, 2011

CABERNET SAUVIGNON STILL KING OF CALIFORNIA RED WINE

Ever since Bordeaux wines reached star status a few hundred years ago, cabernet sauvignon has been one of, if not the most important and revered of red wine varieties. This has definitely been the case in California over the last fifty years. And even with more attention being paid to a number of other varieties in recent years, it still is California’s most popular red grape and red wine.

According to The Wine Institute, cabernet sauvignon continues to be the most widely planted red grape in California. This bounty is translated into wines in a wide range of price categories. While Bordeaux is the traditional benchmark and notable Cabernet Sauvignon wine is produced all over the planet, California arguably is the contemporary standard bearer. This post provides a wide variety of California Cabernet recommendations in several price ranges. My favorites in each category are listed in bold.

As with most wine, the vast majority of Cabernet, namely those in the lower price range (say $10-$20), is meant to be drunk within the first 1-3 years. Look for a focus on varietal fruit characteristics – aromas and flavors of dark berries, plum and currant. The appeal of these wines is that they are immediately accessible, good values just right for everyday drinking. The wines below are straightforward but show good varietal character and also are affordable restaurant choices.

2008 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve

2007 Parducci Mendocino County

2007 Sledgehammer North Coast

2007 Souverain Alexander Valley

In addition to tasty fruit, a quality cabernet sauvignon is characterized by medium- to full-body, good structure, and noticeable oak and tannin. As prices increase, expect more character, depth and concentration. The selections below (all $20-$30) provide a lot of wine for just a little more money.

2007 Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Creek Valley

2008 Folie à Deux Napa Valley

2008 Rodney Strong Alexander Valley Estate

2007 St. Francis Sonoma County

What most captivates aficionados of Cabernet Sauvignon, though, is that it is capable of developing enticing layers of complexity. You may encounter an array of nonfruit characteristics, including herb, olive, mint, tobacco, spice, cocoa, cedar, anise and earth. These are best in small accents, not as dominant qualities. Although this complexity comes at a premium and requires a little patience (say five to nine years), with the wines below (all $30-50) it is worth it.

2007 Dutcher Crossing Cooney Vineyard

2006 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley

2007 Hess Collection “19 Block Cuvee” Mount Veeder

2007 Kendall-Jackson “Jackson Hills” Knight’s Valley

2007 J. Lohr “Hilltop Vineyard” Paso Robles

2007 Pali “Highlands” Napa Valley

2006 Souverain Alexander Valley Winemaker’s Reserve

In certain prime locations (especially in Napa and Sonoma), Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the few wines capable of combining all of the components mentioned above into a complete package. When all these qualities come together, as they do in the wines below, you find a great balance of fruit, structure and richness providing depth, concentration, complexity, and an ability to improve beyond ten years. High prices (I’m taking over $50) mean high expectations, which, in these wines are met.

2007 Joseph Phelps Napa Valley

2007 Pine Ridge Napa Valley

2006 Jordan Alexander Valley

2007 Grgich Hills Napa Valley

2006 Dry Creek Endeavor

2006 Duckhorn Napa Valley

2006 Sbragia Rancho del Oso

2006 Sbragia Cimarossa

2006 Sbragia Monte Rosso

2006 Sbragia Wall

With all this going for it, I think we can expect Cabernet Sauvignon to continue its huge popularity for a long time.

April 25, 2011

WASHINGTON, D.C. DISHES UP, YES, POLITICS BUT ALSO GOOD FOOD AND DRINK

This article originally was written for Out Front Colorado. Featured image courtesy of Destination D.C.

Planning a trip to our nation’s capitol, maybe to lobby for repeal of the deceptively named “Defense of Marriage Act” or to support passage of the Employment Non-Discrimination Act” or to encourage the Joint Chiefs to expedite implementation of the repeal of “Don’t Ask, Don’t Tell?” After a day of political activism, you’re going to need sustenance and something to quench your thirst. I’ve traveled to D.C. at least once each of the last five years – just got back from my most recent trip – and can help guide you to some worthy choices.

The Dupont Circle neighborhood has been the center of the city’s GLBT community since the 1970s. You’ll find an impressive mix of restaurants, bistros, and bars boutiques, shops, hotels, B&BS, galleries and museums. I (and many others) have especially enjoyed the New England-style seafood at Jamie Leeds’ Hank’s Oyster Bar, as it has become one of the neighborhood’s most popular establishments.

On my most recent trip, my disappointment one day in finding that Café Green (which specializes in vegetarian food) was closed for the lunch turned to culinary joy with the lunch I had at Pizzeria Paradiso. My 8-inch special served up a toasty, crispy crust slathered with olive paste topped with cherry tomatoes, Kalamata olives, basil, and Parmesan, and hedonistically finished with Prisciutto di Parma. It was admirably accompanied by a pint of New Holland’s “The Poet” Oatmeal Stout.

On this trip, though, I spent most of my time exploring the offerings in the Penn Quarter, an area of downtown not far from Union Station, Chinatown and Capitol Hill that has seen a transformation into one of the city’s most talked-about restaurant destinations. The neighborhood has long been essentially the city’s theater district. It also has become an entertainment center with numerous clubs, the sports arena, and numerous world-class museums.

I ate breakfast and dinner here all three days I was in town. Breakfast was coffee and pastries alternating at Firehook Bakery and Chinatown Coffee Company.

Dinner the first night was at celebrity chef José Andrés’ Jaleo. This trend-setting tapas restaurant did not disappoint. I enjoyed a traditional fisherman’s “sopa,” a wild mushroom studded “arroz,” and homemade “chorizo,” all washed down with a satisfying Ludovicus Terra Alta (a fine blend of garnacha, tempranillo and syrah). I was particularly impressed with the high quality olive oil served with bread to start the meal.

For my second dinner, I decided to indulge both the “winie” and the “foodie” in mewith a meal at the popularwine bar Proof. They have great looking charcuterie and cheese menus but I went right to the main menu. My garlicky escarole salad, and roast organic chicken breast with mushrooms, rapini and polenta were soul satisfying. My wines were pricey but very good – a crisp, refreshing Gran Cardiel Verdejo for my aperitif and a Bergstrom Cumberland Reserve Pinot Noir with thdentrée.

My last dinner was at the elegant Ristorante Tosca. I settled on the popular pre-theater menu (something many of the restaurants in the Penn Quarter offer, though none offer as many choices as Tosca) as a more affordable way to sample the menu. As a bonus, ten percent of the price is donated to “Food and Friends,” an organization that delivers meals and groceries to people living with HIV/AIDS and other life-threatening illnesses. I enjoyed whole-wheat square spaghetti, sea bass with spinach and balsamic syrup, and finished with bites of three cheeses. The wines, a melony Kris Pinot Grigio and a full-bodied, rich Novelli Montefalco Rosso (sangiovese, sagrantino, merlot, cabernet sauvignon), were good companions.

After a morning visiting several of Colorado’s Congressional offices, I took an opportunity to explore Capitol Hill along Pennsylvania Avenue Southeast. The area has long been a social and residential center for DC’s gay and lesbian community. I walked to what many consider Capitol Hill’s “town hall” – Eastern Market, the oldest operating public market in the city (since 1873!). It is a great place to stock up on fresh produce, meats, flowers, baked goods and unique arts and crafts. I enjoyed a simple but juicy chicken sandwich at Market Lunch. Nearby Eighth Street SE, with its concentration of shops, restaurants and bars (including Phase 1, the nation’s oldest lesbian bar) is a center for alternative nightlife.

On my way back to the Capitol for more meetings, I couldn’t resist stopping by Peregrine Espresso for a jolt, followed by a stop at Good Stuff Eatery. I passed on a gourmet burger, instead enjoying excellent hand cut fries.

There are many more tantalizing options in the Capitol city. For valuable travel advice, go to the Destination D.C. website. Whether you are traveling for business, politics, culture or entertainment, Washington, D.C. is a special travel destination.

March 17, 2011April 6, 2011

CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR CONTINUES ITS EVOLUTION

There is something about pinot noir that seems to inspire an almost mad passion about the grape and its wine. It probably has to do with the grape’s notoriously temperamental nature, as well as its legendary ability to reflect the characteristics of the soil, climate and environment in which it is grown (what the French call ”terroir”).

Winemakers seem to be drawn to the dual challenge of making good wine from such a difficult grape that is also a uniquely expressive wine. Unfortunately, most winemakers fail at one or both of these challenges more often than they succeed. But when they do succeed, for winemakers and consumers, it’s like finding the Holy Grail.

The Burgundy region of France has long been prized as the source of the most spectacular Pinot Noir in the world. Pinot Noir from Oregon (which I reviewed in my last post) is now considered by many to be the second best place in the world to grow the grape. However, knowledgeable wine consumers know that California can produce Pinot Noir that rivals and even exceeds that of Burgundy and Oregon.

With producers identifying more appropriate growing sites (namely cooler climates with longer growing seasons that enable the grapes to ripen while retaining good acidity), matching better quality clones to particular sites, cultivating with extra care, and employing improved vinification techniques, there are countless good to outstanding wines now available for consumers. Yet my recent tastings of California pinot noirs from the 2007, 2008 and 2009 vintages demonstrated the quixotic nature of the quest for the Pinot Noir grail.

California Pinot Noir producers still have a challenge in getting the price/quality relationship right. Certainly, California Pinots are good in their own right and are (often significantly) less expensive than Burgundy. It’s just that Pinot Noir generally is not the wine to choose if you are looking for a good price/quality ratio. Still, my tastings did turn up more good values than the last time I did a major review of California Pinot Noir.

Style wise, most California Pinot Noir is vinified darker, fruitier, more concentrated and larger scaled than Burgundy’s reference point. But I think I detected the beginnings of a stylistic shift among winemakers. The best wines in the tasting delivered more elegance, finesse and earthy complexity than I’ve tasted previously, while still containing mouthfilling flavors and intense perfume.

My recent tastings included a representative sampling of California’s major pinot noir growing regions. Recommendations are presented moving from north to south. My favorites are in bold but all wines are recommended in their price range.

First, I found two wines labeled with just a “California” designation. Such wines are most likely to sport an every day price. The 2008 Murphy-Goode ($14) and 2009 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($18) of good varietal character for the money.

Mendocino County is best known to this palate for fine Zinfandel and Gewurztraminer but in recent years has taken its place among the top sources of Pinot Noir, especially from the Anderson Valley. The 2007 Paul Dolan, made from organic grapes, ($30) was the only Mendocino wine in my tastings but it showed admirable depth, richness and balance.

Sonoma County contains arguably the most abundant sources for Pinot Noir in the state. Combined, the Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast and western part of Carneros account for probably more outstanding Pinot Noir than anywhere else in the state.

The Russian River Valley, which stretches through central Sonoma County, produces many of California’s most celebrated and expensive Pinot Noirs.

2009 Rodney Strong ($20). This pioneering Sonoma winery is making the best wines in its 40+ year history, up and down its extensive portfolio.
2009 Davis Bynum ($35). Making Pinot in the valley since 1973, now part of the Jess Jackson empire.
2008 Sequana Dutton Ranch ($40). This winery is anther successful venture from the owners of the Hess Collection in Napa Valley.
2007 Patz & Hall Chenoweth ($55) This 20 year-old Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialist sources fruit from around the state to make almost exclusively single-vineyard bottlings.

The Sonoma Coast is California’s newest “hot” region for Pinot Noir. It is a large area but already contains several of the state’s most respected vineyards.

2009 La Crema ($24). This thirty year Pinot and Chardonnay specialist continues to craft fine examples of the grape.
2008 MacRostie ($30)
2007 MacRostie Wildcat Mountain ($40). Winemaker Steve MacRostie, who established his own operation in 1987 in Carneros, now is making impressive wines from this new vineyard.
2007 Patz & Hall ($42)

Carneros straddles southern Napa andSonoma and has become a popular source of chardonnay and pinot noir, thanks to the moderating influence of the San Pablo Bay.

2008 Domaine Carneros ($35). This excellent sparkling wine producer has fashioned this wine from organic grapes.
2007 Patz & Hall Hyde ($60)

California’s Central Coast also has emerged as a wellspring of outstanding, though often outstandingly expensive Pinot Noir. Several regions deserve attention.

Certain microclimates of Monterey County have been cultivated successfully by small, quality minded producers. Two wines crafted from selected vineyards within Monterey – 2009 La Crema ($24) and 2008 Pali “Summit” (Monterey and Santa Barbara blend, $29), from a fairly new negociant and Brian Loring, one of the state’s most respected pinot winemakers – are a good introduction to the region.

The Arroyo Seco region in the southwestern corner of the county has produced some good Pinots, like the 2008 J. Lohr “Fog’s Reach” ($35), a fine single vineyard wine from one of the state’s larger wineries. But its the Santa Lucia Highlands overlooking the Salinas Valley that especially has emerged as prime Pinot country, producing some of the state’s most dramatic and sought after Pinot Noirs.

2008 Kali Hart ($21). This is a second label for Talbott Vineyards, one of the stat’s most prestigious Chardonnay producers. Named after the owner’s youngest daughter, this Pinot is made in an approachable style using estate fruit.
2008 Alta Maria ($25)
2008 Sequana “Sarmento” ($32)
2008 Highflyer “Doctor’s” ($38). This comes from the same group that is producing exciting wines under the Sommerston and Priest Ranch labels.
2008 Talbott “Sleepy Hollow” ($40). The is the signature vineyard from this Monterey winemaking pioneer and fine clothing purveyor.
2007 Patz & Hall “Pisoni” ($80)

Farther south, in San Louis Obispo County, the Arroyo Grande Valley and the Edna Valley often are overlooked but produce some fine Pinot Noir. Unfortunately, none were included in my tasting.

Next to Sonoma, Santa Barbara County has emerged as one of the state’s premier Pinot Noir regions, with two great Pinot Noir AVAs. The 2009 Byron Santa Barbara County ($17) offers a good preview of the structure concentration, and ripe flavors typical of the area.

At the northern end of the county, the Santa Maria Valley is home to the famous Bien Nacido Vineyard and a growing number of impressive vineyards. The valley also sources a growing number of wineries. My tastings revealed an impressive portfolio from Byron, one of the pioneers of the area. Byron planted the first vineyard to vinifera grapes in Santa Barbara County in 1964 and has been in the forefront of winemaking achievement in the area ever since.

2008 Santa Maria Valley ($26)
2008 Nielson ($34)
2008 Bien Nacido ($40)
2008 Sierra Madre ($40)
2008 Julia’s Vineyard ($40)
2008 Monument ($60)

Santa Barbara County not surprisingly has experienced the Sideways effect more than any other region, not surprising given that the movie was set there. But the Santa Ynez Valley and the Santa Maria Valley in particular had become recognized for some of the state’s best Pinot Noirs long before the movie. Certain growing areas within Santa Barbara County recently have produced such quality that the county can now contend with Sonoma as California’s best Pinot Noir region.

At the northern end of the county, the Santa Maria Valley benchlands are home to the famous Bien Nacido Vineyard and a growing number of pinot noir vineyards.

From a narrow opening near the Pacific Ocean, the Santa Ynez Valley broadens inland encompassing the vineyards and wineries that inspired the movie “Sideways.” The Santa Rita Hills in the western end of the valley, the home of the celebrated Sanford & Benedict vineyard, has garnered special attention in recent years. The ten-year-old hillside vineyard of Sea Smoke is producing some of the area’s best grapes. Rather than focusing on bottlings of individual blocks, Sea Smoke crafts different expressions of the site. These two new releases, while different (Southing is more elegant and seductive; Ten is more powerful and extracted) are both breathtaking.

2008 Sea Smoke Southing ($52)
2008 Sea Smoke Ten ($80)

March 1, 2011April 6, 2011

OREGON’S 2008 VINTAGE ELEVATES PINOT NOIR

Over the last decade, Oregon has emerged as one of the world’s great Pinot Noir producing regions. Now, with around 400 wineries, the state has developed into a world-class wine tourism destination.

The Oregon wine industry also has become a leader in the sustainable agriculture movement. This is seen in the increasing number of growers and wineries participating in four related certification programs.

LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology, Inc.) certification promotes responsible stewardship of the land by recognizing practices that reduce reliance on synthetic chemicals and fertilizers and maintain biological diversity.

“Salmon Safe” certification recognizes practices that help restore and maintain healthy watersheds.

Organic certification from Oregon Tilth is awarded to those that meet biologically sound and socially equitable criteria. Many wineries also employ organic and sustainable farming practices without official recognition.

The Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Green Building certification acknowledges achievement in sustainable site development, water savings, energy efficiency, materials selection, and indoor environmental quality.

Most of the wines in my tastings were from the highly touted 2008 vintage and confirmed the vintage’s reputation. As a group the wines show intense fruit and ripeness – yet only one had more than 14 percent alcohol – resulting in wine with power and elegance. They aren’t cheap but most have avoided the price inflation of comparable wines from Burgundy and California. My recommendations from recent tastings are listed below.

Arcachon. This second label for Oak Knoll is named after a community southwest of Bordeaux, which was the home of the founder’s ancestors. The 2008 Willamette Valley ($12) is a very good value; quite flavorful for the price.

Cana’s Feast. Also known for their Italian varietal wines from Washington grapes, the 2008 Meredith Mitchell Vineyard ($48) is supple and balanced with a sense of earth and brown spices with fresh acidity lifting the finish.

Carabella. Owned by a Colorado trained winemaker, Carabella’s first vintage was in 1998. The vineyard, located in the Chehalem Mountains of Oregon’s Willamette Valley has produced an excellent 2008 ($39). Expect admirable complexity from berry fruit, spice and even minerality, carried with good weight and a supple texture.

Four Graces. Established in 2003, The Four Graces is named in honor of the founders’ four daughters. Half of the vineyards are farmed sustainably; the other half using Biodynamic principles. The 2008 Willamette Valley ($29) combines blackberry fruit with earthy, mushroom notes in a firm and, well, graceful frame.

King Estate. Founded in 1991 by the King family, King Estate has grown into one of Oregon’s largest wineries and most popular wine tourist attractions. They also have been pioneers of organic and sustainable farming. The flavorful and firm 2009 Signature Collection ($27) continues a successful streak for this wine.

Ponzi Vineyards. Established in 1970, the Ponzi family and have been leaders in Oregon’s wine industry and the responsible stewardship movement. Truly a family winery, production now is being carried on by a second generation. The vineyards and winemaking are LIVE certified. The winery is a sustainable, gravity-flow facility. And the complex and silky 2008 Willamette Valley ($35) is one of the rewards.

Sokol Blosser. Ever since the first vines were planted in 1971, this family has been leaders in the sustainable agriculture movement utilizing a variety of stewardship practices, including organic farming, sustainable business practices, energy efficiency, and low impact packaging, a LEED certified winery, Salmon-Safe, and Carbon Neutral Challenge. The 2008 Dundee Hills ($34) is 79% organic, with black cherry, earth, spice and good structure with supple tannin.

Stoller Vineyards. The Stoller family has farmed this property since in 1943. Bill and Cathy Stoller became owners in 1993 and began the gradual conversion to vineyards. The new winery is solar-powered and gold-level LEED status. Add Salmon Safe and LIVE certified. The 2007 Dundee Hills “JV” ($25) shows bright cherry fruit and spice in an early drinking style.

Toii Mor. Although founded in 1993, the estate vineyard was planted in 1972. The owners are focused on farming sustainably (LIVE certified); reducing carbon and energy usage; and employing solar energy and a gravity flow winery (LEED Gold). The 2008 Willamette Valley ($22) was fermented using indigenous yeasts and shows dark cherry, earthy mushroom and toast with crisp acidity.

February 19, 2011April 6, 2011

Chile Another South American Source of Excellent Values

As I wrote in a previous post, the popularity of wine from Argentina and Chile with American consumers has been growing for a good decade now. And it seems to have escalated since the beginning of the Great Recession. The main reason for this popularity seems to be that most of the wines remain modestly priced, even as the quality has improved.

Chilean wines have been good values as long as I can remember. What is different now is that the quality has improved rather dramatically in recent years. Just as I proposed in my post last month on Argentina, there are good wines under $10 and in some ways even better values in the $10-$20 range.

Another similarity with Argentina is the fairly recent emergence of an otherwise lesser-known variety – in this case Carménère – as the country’s signature wine. This red grape was widely planted in Bordeaux in the early 1700’s but virtually disappeared in the late 1800’s. As immigrants and others brought European varieties to Chile in the mid 1800’s, it showed up there; seemingly disappeared again over time (actually it apparently was often mistaken for merlot); then was discovered again in the 1990’s and rather quickly recognized for its potential in this new environment.

Typically, Carménère is a deeply colored wine that displays appealing berry, coffee and spice notes. The Colchagua Valley, south of Santiago, is considered the primary source as it is for these wines recommended from my tastings: 2009 Cono Sur “Bicycle” ($11), 2009 Mont Gras Reserva ($15), 2008 Arboleda ($19).

But Carménère is not just a “value” wine in Chile. Numerous wineries are producing refined, complex Carménère. A good example is the 2007 “El Incidente” ($50) from Viu Manent. This inaugural vintage contains the finest grapes from their Colchagua vineyards. Translated as “the incident,” the name refers to a balloon accident from the family’s history. This complex wine shows dark berries, brown spice, and hints of chocolate. It also clearly benefits from the addition of Petit Verdot and Malbec. This 75 year-old family owned winery also produces a wide variety of wines at modest prices.

Despite the excitement for and promise of Carménère, Cabernet Sauvignon still dominates the reds. It tends to show more ripe fruit than, say, Bordeaux but more structure and herbal notes than California. Look for wines especially from the Maipo (just north of Santiago) and Colchagua valleys. My favorites from the tastings: 2008 Los Vascos Reserve ($20) from a winery managed by the Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite), 2007 Santa Rita “Medalla Real” Single Estate ($20), 2009 Cono Sur Organic Cabernet Sauvignon/Carménère ($14).

As for the whites, Chardonnay still rules by volume but Sauvignon Blanc, especially from the Casablanca Valley (west of Santiago near the coast), may turn to be the best white overall. The finest are fresh and crisp and quite aromatic. They tend to display lively fruit and occasionally mineral notes. These showed well in my tastings: Los Vascos $11, 2010 Santa Rita Reserva ($12), 2008 Arboleda ($18).

Actually, like California, Chile has quite a diverse landscape and climate – in this case the Pacific Ocean borders to the west, the Andes Mountains line the east, and the Atacama Desert defines the north. This allows many different grape varieties to be grown successfully. Beyond the varieties already mentioned, there is a lot of merlot and I’ve been reading about the improving Syrah (although neither of these were included in my tastings).

Chile also is turning into a good source of Pinot Noir. One of my favorite producers is Cono Sur, the pioneer of Chilean Pinot Noir. They seek a Burgundian style, with a Chilean accent. The 2009 “Vision” ($15) is a fine expression of the Block 68 Old Vine Vineyard in Colchagua Valley. The 2008 “20 Barrels” ($28) is a limited edition special selection that rewards the effort to select the best lots from their Casablanca Valley vineyards.

Another good Pinot Noir is the Bodegas Corpora 2008 “Llai Llai” ($13). Llai Llai (which means “wind” in the indigenous Mapuche) is a new brand featuring two wines, a Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the Bio Bio Valley in the remote southern part of the country, whose cool climate and significant coastal influence offers excellent conditions for these varieties.

Interestingly, Chile is emerging as an innovator in sustainable agriculture. Several of the wineries mentioned in this column employ a variety of sustainable practices – Arboleda (sustainable viticulture, environmental and worker protection), Cono Sur (integrated vineyard management, organic vineyards, carbon neutral delivery), Santa Rita (sustainable viticulture), Bodegas Corpora (organic and biodynamic viticulture, solar energy), Viu Manent (environmental protection, carbon neutral).

One of Chile’s most socially and environmentally responsible businesses is Emiliana, a 25 year-old winery from the family that also manages the iconic Concha y Toro winery. Emiliana is dedicated to producing wines

made from organic and biodynamic grapes. And the winemaking has transitioned to using indigenous yeast. They have earned carbon neutral certification for many of their wines; use recycled and recyclable materials; have reduced packaging; and recycle waste products. Beyond production values, the company certifies good and fair working conditions and supports community projects. They even share profits in ancillary honey and olive oil ventures with the workers.

In addition to the top-of-the-line Coyam and “G” biodynamic wines and the organic Natura and Novas lines, Emiliana has introduced a new line called Eco Balance (from sustainably farmed vineyards in transition to organic status). Priced at an inviting $9 and delivering equally attractive quality, the whites include 2009 Sauvignon Blanc and 2009 Chardonnay (both Casablanca). The reds include 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo), 2008 Merlot (Rapel), and 2008 Carménère (Colchagua).

All in all, my tastings revealed a diverse and impressive showing. For the most part, Chilean wine delivers high quality at reasonable prices, a good combination in any economy.

February 6, 2011April 6, 2011

BUBBLES AND ROSES FOR VALENTINE’S DAY

I have to admit my wife and I aren’t big on most holidays or special occasions. Frankly, we’re put off by the commercialism. That’s especially true this time of year. Having just made it through Halloween, Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Years, we’ve been facing the Valentine’s Day onslaught for a month now.

It’s not that we have anything intrinsically against these holidays. It’s just that it is hard to find the meaning behind all the commercialism and we prefer to take the road less traveled.

For example, if we go out at all on New Year’s Eve, we go early and come home early. We’re more likely to stay home; make dinner for ourselves; and, of course, open a bottle or two of wine. The same goes for Valentine’s Day, our anniversary, and our birthdays.

Of course, one thing about holidays and special occasions is that they do provide prime opportunities to open a special bottle of wine. For many people, and I count myself among them, Champagne (or other good sparkling wine) is a classic choice for making any special occasion even more special.

Certainly, it is a prime choice for toasting the occasion but Valentine’s Day also is the perfect time for drinking bubbly throughout the meal. The combination of good acidity, intense fruit, and, of course, effervescence make for a most versatile combination. And don’t forget that some of the best sparkling wines are rosés (which in Champagne typically are a blend of red wine from pinot noir/pinot meunier and white wine from chardonnay).

A fine choice for Champagne would be the Nicolas Feuillatte NV Brut Rosé ($36). It reveals an intensity of red fruits to the senses that signify the passion of the evening. But the NV Brut ($36), which relies more on pinot noir and pinot meunier than many NV Brut, also is a fine choice. It offers cherry notes but also pear and citrus, accented with floral and hazelnut elements that all merge to suggest the fresh flavors and elegance that tickle the palate. A fun option for those going casual or who just want one glass each is the inexplicably named One Fo(u)r, a 2-pack of mini bottles (one Brut & one Rosé, $30).

Sparkling Wine from California can be a god alternative. The Domaine Carneros NV Brut Rosé Cuvée de la Pompadour ($35) opens up with a delightful strawberry cream bouquet that creates a sense of anticipation more than realized in the racy, playful palate.

Gloria Ferrer’s NV Blanc de Noirs ($20) tantalizes with sweet sensations of red fruits. Then presents a voluptuous palate that finishes with a delightful zest. The NV Brut ($20) goes more for the smooth, sleek approach. It balances perky fruit with a stylish texture that invites you to indulge.

Of course, Champagne and California sparklers are the obvious choices. If you like to shake things up and experiment, you could try an Alsatian bubbly, known as Crémant d’Alsace. But these bubbles are no consolation prize. Crémant typically is light and fruity but offers a nice measure of complexity.

The best place to start is Lucien Albrecht, the largest Crémant producer. The Brut Rosé ($20) is all pinot noir and has the finesse and flexibility to assume any position throughout a meal. The all pinot blanc Brut Blanc de Blancs ($20) is lithe and supple and would do nicely as a prelude to the main course.

Another adventurous selection would be Prosecco (also the name of the grape) from the Veneto. Prosecco makes a great aperitif but can perform well all evening. The attraction is in its light, fresh aromas and clean, delicate fruit, and low alcohol. I’ve recently been enamored of Valdo’s Nerello Mascalese Rosé ($14) in which the nerello grape adds color and spice to the blend and Valdo’s Brut ($15) for its tart green apple flavors.

Actually, now that I think of it, with all this great wine to drink, maybe having all these holidays and special occasions isn’t such a bad idea after all.

January 28, 2011

WORTHY NEW SEASONAL BEER FROM DESCHUTES

Once in a while, this wine guy gets an opportunity to sample new craft beer releases. I’m happy to have one now to recommend: Red Chair NWPA (Northwest Pale Ale), the new seasonal beer from Deschutes Brewery of Bend, Oregon.

Deschutes says Red Chair (6.2% ABV) is named after the oldest operating lift at Mt. Bachelor. They call it their debut Northwest Pale Ale, though not unlike the last year’s Red Chair IPA. I never tasted the IPA; so, I’ll take their word for it.

This one sits in the glass with a copper color and a loosely foamy head. As I sniff, I pick up hints of citrus, bread, caramel, and herbal lemongrass. Sipping reveals more toast and citrus. Dry, bitter hops emerge but don’t overpower. A malty counterpoint asserts itself then gives way to more hops in the finish.

I relate to it as a cross between an IPA and an American pale ale. It is medium bodied and well balanced, with a hoppy personality moderated by malty qualities. I’m told Red Chair began as an experimental beer to test new hops and hopping techniques. Additionally, seven European and domestic malts are key to the formula. The success of the experiment shows in the final product.

Maybe I shouldn’t be surprised Red Chair cleaned house the World Beer Awards. The brew will be available from January until April in six- and twelve-packs and on draft throughout the 16 states where Deschutes beer is distributed.

January 23, 2011January 23, 2011

LOOK TO SOUTH AMERICA FOR VALUE – PART ONE, ARGENTINA

The popularity of wine Argentina and Chile with American consumers has been growing for a good decade now. And it seems to have escalated since the beginning of the Great Recession. This past year I have read numerous reports in the wine press about the growth in exports of wine from Argentina and Chile worldwide, especially in the U.S.

In keeping with this value theme, the main reason for this popularity seems to be that most of the wines remain modestly priced, even as the quality has improved. In this column, I review Argentina; next month it’ll be Chile.

In Argentina, the star is Malbec, from a minor blending grape in Bordeaux (though important in the southwestern France region of Cahors) that experiences some sort of alchemy in these South American soils. Mendoza is the primary source, though other regions have gotten into the act successfully. The warm days and cool nights of this high desert climate (not unlike Colorado) drape the alluvial soils of the high altitude vineyards in the shadows of the Andes Mountains, making an ideal home for the grape.

Much good quality Malbec can be had for $15 or less. Good options from my recent tastings include the 2009 Arido ($10), 2009 Portillo ($10), 2009 Budini ($13), 2009 Tomero ($14), and 2008 Trapiche “Broquel” ($15). While I enjoyed those, the 2008 La Posta “Cocina” ($15) and 2009 Trivento “Amado Sur” ($15) stood out for their solid structure, fine fruit, and unexpected (for the price) complexity.

For just a little more money expect more fruit and intensity from the 2009 Layer Cake ($16), 2009 Michel Torino “Don David Reserve” ($15), 2007 Rutini ($18), 2009 Bodegas Salentein Reserve ($19), 2008 Cruz Andina ($20), and 2008 Trivento Gold Reserve ($21).

The most expensive Malbec in these tastings, the 2008 Mendel ($30), did turn out to be the best. With it’s firm structure, pure fruit, and refined texture, it may be the best value of all.

Other regions are getting into the act, too. The 2009 Ruta 22 ($13), from the southern region of Patagonia, also showed well. Route 22 is the main road used to travel from the East to the West in Argentina. The vineyards lie in the Neuquen Valley located in the southern region of Patagonia. Keep an eye out for wines from Patagonia.

Those who prefer Cabernet Sauvignon also will find something to love from Argentina. For instance, Andeluna Cellars, near the town of Tupungato in Mendoza, has turned out a 2008 that delivers an amazing amount of cabernet character for a measly $10. Another $10 winner is the 2008 Trapiche Oak Cask. And the 2006 Andeluna Reserve also delivers admirable quality at $20, as does the 2005 Navarro Correas Allegoria Gran Reserva ($19).

Many producers also have found success blending Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2008 Amancaya Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon ($20) easy going and flavorful, while the 2006 Andeluna Reserve Celebracion ($20) is more elegant and complex. Although pricier, the 2004 Navarro Correas “Ultra” ($30) delivers added measures of earth, spice and cocoa, while the 2006 Caro ($50) is intense and firm with good depth.

A great surprise in the tasting was the 2009 “Barda” Pinot Noir ($25) from Bodega Chacra in Patagonia. Surprising in that who would have expected such a delicious pinot with a fine balance of ripeness and grace from Argentina?

The most interesting white wine comes from torrontés, which grows most successfully in the northern regions of Salta and La Rioja. The grape makes typically very aromatic wines, with a bit of spice, and floral notes. Expect stone fruits, melon, pear, or tangerine and a light body. The best of my tastings was the 2010 Crios de Susanna Balbo ($15), followed by the 2009 Trivento “Amado Sur” ($15). The 2009 Michel Torino “Don David Reserve” ($15), 2010 Tomero ($14), 2008 Trivento Reserve ($11 ) also merit attention. The 2009 Trapiche ($8) and 2010 Callia Alta ($9) are good values under $10.

All in all, an impressive showing. For the most part, Argentina wine delivers high quality and flavor interest at reasonable prices. As producers learn more about Argentina’s terroir and work to reflect that ion their wines, we should expect even more improvement.

December 31, 2010April 6, 2011

Have a Sweet New Year!

Something about the cold weather and holidays always gets me in the mood for a good dessert wine. I’ve discovered a few that I am looking forward to helping me get through the rest of winter. Of course, the new year is celebrated in many cultures. So, herewith sweet new year accompaniments from four countries.

Happy New Year!

I believe late harvest wines are the most common dessert wine. Leaving the grapes on the vine past normal harvest until they become super ripe, results in concentrated sugars and a luscious wine. In certain cases, producers leave grapes to hang on the vine until they freeze, thus making “Eiswein” in Germany and “Icewine” in Canada.

Rather than wait for Nature, some producers actually freeze the grapes themselves after harvest. Iconic Joseph Phelps winery in Napa Valley makes a very special dessert wine from the scheurebe grape using this method. The 2009 “Eisrebe” (.375ml, $50) shows amazingly unctuous honey, peach, apricot and citrus. Try it with fruit, blue and creamy cheeses, nut or fruit based desserts, cookies, cheesecake or crème brulee.

Some California producers make a Port-style wine using zinfandel because of its ability to develop naturally high alcohol levels. The 2008 Dashe Late Harvest Zinfandel (.375ml, $24), though not fortified, certainly conjures the character of a Ruby Port. It has fine structure and acidity, with aromas and flavors of raspberry and black pepper.

Feliz Ano Novo!

Speaking of Port, “Port” from Northern Portugal’s Upper Douro Valley (where the growing region is extreme with long hot summers, very cold winters, low average rainfall and rugged, rocky soils) is a different sort of sweet wine. High alcohol (fortified with brandy) and bursting with red and black fruit flavors, it is a powerful wine, even in styles that manage to fashion a sense of elegance. The richness of intense dark fruits and natural sweetness balanced with refreshing tannin and finished with an alcoholic kick always warms my soul.

Ruby/Reserve Ports are blended from several different vintages and bottled young to preserve the fresh, assertive style that is ready to drink upon release. Graham’s “Six Grapes” Reserve ($23) is a delectable choice with concentrated black-ruby color and aromas of ripe plums and dark cherries.

Tawny Ports also marry several vintages but have spent extensive time in casks, periods ranging form ten to forty years (the year on label refers to the average age of blended wine). Tawnies mellow in the barrel and are released when their peak of maturity is reached.

For me, the 20-year tawny is ideal, showing the complexity of age but amazingly with the freshness of youth. For instance, Graham’s 20 Year Tawny ($60) has a complex nose of nuts, honey and fig with an impressive purity of fruit. Rich, mature fruit flavors beautifully meld with a luscious texture that exudes delicacy and elegance, while retaining, structure.

Dow’s 10 Year Tawny ($33) is quite fine in its own right but is a little sharper and not as complex, though still quite tasty. Smooth and delicate with a nose of brown spices, nuts and cherry, it exhibits elegance, with hints of dried fruit.

Late Bottled Vintage Port is similar to Vintage Port but spends a longer time in oak cask, typically four and six years and is considered ready to drink when bottled. Dow’s 2005 Late Bottled Vintage ($20) is full-bodied, with rich ripe blackberry fruit but balanced with good acidity and soft tannins. Tasty now, it would drink well for a few years.

Vintage Port is made only in exceptional years from a producer’s top vineyards and bottled after two years in barrel. These wines are highly praised for their intensity and ability to develop over many decades. The 2007 Smith Woodhouse ($56) from very low production, very old vines is a bargain exhibiting enticingly candied and mineral scented aromas, is well balanced, and should mature well.

Although some experiment with Port during a meal, it is best enjoyed chilled at the end of the meal, either with dessert or as dessert. Dark chocolate or blue cheeses are ideal matches but other desserts, cheeses, and nuts can work, too.

Felíz Año Nuevo!

Sherry is another fortified wine made in neighboring Spain. There are dry and sweet styles. Among the dessert styles, Cream Sherry, made by blending a dry wine with a very sweet wine, is the best known. Pedro Ximenex, made solely from the Pedro Ximenex grape, is the thickest and sweetest. The raisin, fig, caramel and date qualities of the third style, Olorso Dulce, is on display in the Gonzalez Byass Solera 1847 ($20). Oloroso is a special strong, well-aged Sherry and Oloroso Dulce is sweetened with Pedro Ximenex. This one is rich and dense, with a velvety palate and concentrated flavors of caramel, raisin and fig, with a touch of almond. Pair with desserts of similar flavors or pour over vanilla ice cream.

Bonne Année!

Finally, I present a ginger liqueur from French producer Domaine de Canton ($32). This unique liqueur is crafted from baby Vietnamese ginger, VSOP and XO Cognac, Provençal honey, Tunisian Ginseng, and fresh vanilla bean. It bursts with flavor, the distinctive ginger enhanced by the Cognac. Domaine de Canton is handmade in small batches and eschews artificial additives, preservatives, or colorants in any stage of production. It is a fantastic compliment to cookies and biscotti.

December 27, 2010

19 Reasons to Consider Wines Made in Colorado

I recently attended “A Celebration of Premier Colorado Wines” at the Governor’s Residence and came away with renewed confidence in the quality of Colorado wines. Hosted by first lady Jeannie Ritter, Gov. Bill Ritter, the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board and the American Wine Society, proceeds from benefit the Governor’s Residence Preservation Fund.

The tasting showcased award winners from a competition judged by experts including Doug Frost (Master Sommelier and Master of Wine), Jeff Siegel (Fort Worth Star Telegram), Bill Nelson (WineAmerica) and local experts from Johnson and Wales University, the International Wine Guild, Denver AWS Chapter, the chef of Charles Court at The Broadmoor, and the sommelier at Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House in Greenwood Village.

Of 213 wines entered by 35 wineries, judges awarded 147 medals.

Some of my favorites:
Alfred Eames Cellars (red blends)
• 2007 Carmena
• 2008 Collage
• 2008 Sangre del Sol
Bookcliff Vineyards
• 2009 Riesling
Boulder Creek Winery
• 2009 Riesling
Creekside Cellars
• 2007 Cabernet Franc
• 2005 Merlot
Desert Sun Vineyards
• 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
Guy Drew Vineyards
• 2009 Riesling
• 2009 Gewurztraminer
Plum Creek Winery
• 2009 Sauvignon Blanc
Reeder Mesa Vineyards
• 2008 Merlot
Talon Winery
• 2008 Wingspan White
• 2008 Wingspan Red
Two Rivers Winery & Chateau
• 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
• 2006 Ruby Port
• 2007 Vintner’s Blend
Woody Creek Cellars
• 2008 Cabernet Franc
• 2008 Tempranillo