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Highlights from the Food and Wine Classic in Aspen

Check out some of my pics from the event.  Click here!

Once again, the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen (the 28th) provided numerous prime opportunities to meet winemakers

and winery owners and to discover new wines. While there always are discoveries to be made in the Grand Tasting Tent and enlightenment to be gained from the seminars, this year I especially enjoyed the special events that typically surround the main program.

As always, the Classic kicked off Thursday evening with the Welcome Reception, hosted again by Trinchero Family Estates. It’s always fun for people watching and celebrity sighting and, of course, for a chance to say “hi” to Gabby and

Mark. As for the wines, Amador County Zinfandels from Terra d’Oro and a Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc from Joel Gott (Napa winemaker and owner of Taylor’s Refresher gourmet burger joints) were particular standouts. The Gott wines showed good varietal fruit, while the Terra d’Oro wines were typically hearty and intense.

Next, Wines from Spain sponsored a Spanish-style barbecue at an amazing Aspen home that was hosted by acclaimed chef Jose Andres. So, of course, we got another chance to see Gabby and Mark. Wonderful Spanish cheeses, tapas and even a roast pig were accompanied by a half dozen crisp, Albarinos from Rias Baixa and several flavorful, tempranillo-

based reds from Ribera del Duero. My favorite reds were 2006 Emina, 2004 Protos Reserva, and 2004 Pago de los Capellanes. Spain has had a strong presence at the Classic for many years, both through seminars and The Spanish Tent, which featured many great wines too numerous to cover here.

Thursday night’s dinner at Jimmy’s was hosted by Ferrer Wine Estates and featured several sparklers from their extensive

line of Cava. It is, after all, the success of Freixenet Cava that made the Ferrer family fortune. The workhorse Feixenet Cordon Negro Brut and the Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad (love that pewter trimmed bottle) were solid appetizers, while the new Elyssia ultra premium Cava from Feixenet (Gran Cuvee Brut and Pinot Noir Brut) showed themselves as good additions to the portfolio. We also were treated to bubbly from the family’s Gloria Ferrer California operation. The new “Va di Vi” was full of fruit and I couldn’t help but take second and third helpings of the tête de cuvee 1999 Carneros Cuvee.
Friday lunch was all about beer, or I should say bière. “Tails and Ales: Where Belgian Beers meet Louisiana Crawfish” hosted by Stella Artois provided a distinctive and actually welcome respite from hours of wine tasting. Hosted by Chef John Besh (his Besh Restaurant Group owns six restaurants in southern Louisiana) and Master Beer Sommelier Marc

Stroobandt, we were treated to six courses featuring differing preparations of crawfish! As good as they all were, I was quite relieved dessert came sans tails. As for the beers, it was fun to experiment with matching the different styles – Stella Artois (light, crisp European Pilsner), Hoegaarden (citrusy, malty unfiltered Belgian white) and Leffe Blonde (spicy, malty Belgian Abbey Ale) – with each dish.

And Friday night? Three more parties! The night began with Banfi Vintners, “Five Great Chefs & Stellar Wines” party at the Grand Aspen. I especially enjoyed Banfi’s new wine called Belnero (Tuscan sangiovese), Emiliana’s Coyam (a

biodynamic Argentinean blend of mostly syrah, cabernet sauvignon, carmenere, and merlot), and Banfi Rosa Regale (a delightful Brachetto d’Acqui that paired beautifully with Jacques Torres handmade chocolate).

Then it was off to the Aspen Art Gallery to “cleanse” my palate with The Macallan Scotch, specifically the Fine Oak line of single malt scotches. For the Scotch drinker, you can’t do much better than the highly praised 12, 18, 21, and 30 Years Old

Fine Oak Single Malt Scotches. The Fine Oak Scotches are matured in European and American casks that previously held Sherry or bourbon. I found this produced an amazingly elegant, complex whiskey suggestive of dried fruit in the nose and vanilla, almond and honey in the mouth.

After that, it was back to the Hyatt for Old Bridge Cellars’ “Infamous Aussie Winemaker” party. The festivities were hosted by Chester Osborn (Fourth Generation Winemaker of d’Arenberg Winery, John Duvall (Founder/Winemaker John Duvall

Wines and former Winemaker for Penfolds Grange), and Nathan Waks (Proprietor/Managing Director of Killikanoon). It was a real privilege to be able to engage in casual conversation with these icons of Australian wine. And there wines didn’t disappoint. There was an amazing array of fantastic juice to be had. Just a few of the ones that stood out to me included Duval’s Plexus (GSM), Entity (old vine shiraz), and Eligo (the flagship shiraz); Killikanoon’s Prodigal (Grenache), Killerman’s Run (shiraz-grenache), Oracle (shiraz), and Black’s Road (cabernet sauvignon); and last but certainly not least d’Arenberg’s Mourvedre, Ironstone Pressings (GSM), Magpie (shiraz viognier), and The Dead Arm

(shiraz).

The climax of the event Saturday night, of course, was the Best New Chefs Dinner. It was especially fun this year to see Denver’s Alex Seidel honored for his work at Fruition Restaurant. It was also a treat that the dinner featured wines from Beringer. The Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir showed well as usual, as did the Alluvium Blanc. But it was extra special to be able to drink a few of Beringer’s top-of-the-line wines: Bancroft Ranch Merlot, Private Reserve

Chardonnay and Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.

The real treat though was being able to celebrate Alex Seidel for his achievement in being recognized by Food & Wine as one of America’s Best New Chefs. I had a sought an interview with Alex and was glad I did. I’ve always appreciated the purity and impeccable simplicity of his food and the amicable attentiveness of Fruition’s staff. This clearly comes from Alex’s (and his partner Paul Atardi’s) commitment to quality. That commitment really came through in the interview. He

long has worked with local producers to source top quality ingredients and now has partnered to purchase a farm near Larkspur to help supply the restaurant. Two other elements came through in the interview that attest to Alex’s (and Fruition’s) current and future success: his focus on every situation as an opportunity to learn and improve and his relationship with his cooks and wait staff as one of a community all working together for the same purpose.

Finally, I very much enjoyed another interview opportunity with Bob Mosby, General Manager for Benovia. Bob is a retired psychologist who joined his friends Joe Anderson and Mary Dewane (who had purchased the Cohn vineyard in Sonoma’s Russian River Valley and supplied grapes to others for several years) in 2005, when they purchased a prime Pinot Noir vineyard (it had previously supplied Williams Selyem and Kosta Browne) with an existing winery and decided to produce their own wine. Importantly, Mike Sullivan, who had great success at Hartford Court before coming to Benovia, joined the project as co-owner and Winemaker. They now produce about 3000 cases of Pinot Noir (65%),

Chardonnay (25%) and Zinfandel (10%).

I sampled several 2008 wines: Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, La Pommeraie Vineyard Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, Cohn Vineyard Pinot Noir, Bella Una Pinot Noir, and La Pommeraie Vineyard Pinot Noir. Bob (and his charming wife Jeannie who had joined us) proved a delightful interview. And from the taste of the wines, I fully expect Benovia to

emerge as one of California’s top Pinot Noir and Chardonnay producers. And I can’t wait to try their Zinfandel someday. There were many more amazing experiences at the Classic but I think you get the idea. Once again, the Food & Wine brought an amazing world of food and wine to Aspen, combining education and pleasure in the magazine’s unique way.

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Paso Robles Emerges As World Class Wine, Food, Travel Destination

Five years ago when I first visited Paso Robles I thought the area showed great promise as a viticultural zone. A recent visit as part of a group of journalists assembled by the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance showed me how much the area has matured as a grape growing, winemaking and culinary destination. And how much promise there is for even more progress.

Paso Robles is the largest American Viticultural Area (AVA) in California. It is also the name of the main town of about 30,000, whose original name was El Paso del

Robles (“Passage of the Oaks”). But, after my recent visit to the area, I think Paso could just be short for “passion.”

From our home base at the elegant Hotel Cheval, just off the square in downtown Paso, we visited a wide variety of vineyards, wineries, restaurants and other food purveyors

Dinner the first night was at Artisan in downtown Paso where Chef Chris Kobayashi (who has cooking credentials from San Francisco and the Napa Valley restaurants) crafts dishes as much as possible from seasonal, locally grown ingredients from small producers.

We were joined by the following “pioneers”:

• Jason Haas, whose father, the respected importer Robert Haas and the Perrin brothers of the esteemed Chateau Beaucastel established Tablas Creek in 1989, kicking off Paso’s journey to becoming a Rhone varietal mecca.

• Justin Baldwin, who with his wife Deborah established Justin Vineyards in 1981and turned it into a popular destination with an elegant inn and gourmet restaurant, while showing Paso can produce great Bordeaux varietal-based wines.

• Steve Lohr, son of Jerry Lohr, founder of J. Lohr, which moved into Paso in 1988 and has grown into one of the area’s largest and most widely available labels, while building a reputation for excellent value.

Continuing the pioneer theme, our tours the next day took us to two of the area’s oldest farming families. We began the day at Steinbeck Vineyards where six generations have farmed what is now 500 acres of vines. Cindy (Steinbeck) Newkirk explained their sustainable farming practices and noted that they sell 99 percent of their grapes to such producers as Eberle, Justin, J. Lohr, and Treana. The family decided to open their own winery in 2005 and now release their own wines (Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, and The Crash made by longtime area winemaker Steve Glossner) with the other one percent.

Cindy also explained her foray into “agritourism” with the creation of The Wine Yard, a classroom in the vineyard offering an historical overview of the region, vineyard jeep tours and viticultural education.

The next stop was a particular treat for the Zinfandel lover (not to mention the Italian) in me: the legendary Dusi vineyard. The Dusi family tradition in Paso began in 1923 when Great Grandparents Sylvester and Catarina Dusi purchased a ranch on the east side of the Salians River (which today roughly parallels Highway 101) and began planting zinfandel vines. This property, farmed for many years by their son Benito and today by his son Mike has supplied the fruit for the celebrated Ridge Paso Robles Zinfandels since 1976. I have fond memories of drinking many of those Ridge wines over the years.

Benito’s brother Dante planted another zinfandel vineyard on the west side in 1945 and can still be seen driving a tractor through the head pruned, dry farmed vines (I have a picture to prove it!). It was here that we sampled several Dusi Zinfandels from new Paso-based wineries in an enlightening tasting that presented examples of the character of the Vineyard – usually bold, dramatic, spicy, intense.

• J. Dusi. Dante’s granddaughter Janell pays tribute to her grandfather and family heritage by adding intriguing Carignane, Grappa and Port to the regular Zinfandel.

• Four Vines. Winemaker Christian Tietje and his partners have cultivated a eccentric image with flamboyant labels that match the flashy wines.

• Grey Wolf. This family-owned winery founded by Joe and Shirlene Barton in 1994 now has son Joe as its winemaker. He makes a wide range of Zinfandels, Rhone-style wines, as well as cabernet-based wines.

• Turley. This has been an iconic name in California winemaking ever since they released their first wines in 1993. There are now dozens of Turley Zinfandels from all over the state. But they thought so highly of Paso, they bought the old Pesenti vineyard and established a winery here. Malani Anderson, representing the company, presented their amazingly pure Dusi Zin.

We followed these tours with lunch at Thomas Hill Organics a friendly, casual market-bistro two blocks from the downtown square that served spectacularly fresh food, not surprising since it much of it came from their own organic farm. Joeli Yaguda of Pasolivo, a gourmet olive oil company, also treated us to a fascinating tasting of locally grown olive oils.

Alex and Monica Villicana joined us to share wines from their Villicana winery. Although Alex and Monica were SoCal folks, their connection to Paso goes back to 1990 when Alex began working harvests there. Six years later, they purchased property, planted a vineyard and in 2002 moved their family to Paso to focus full time on their winery. They make very interesting wines and even share a tasting room with Pasolivo.

Dinner that night was at the home of L’Aventure owner/winemaker Stephan Asseo and his wife Beatrice. Also attending were close friends and neighboring vintners Terry and Jennifer Hoage, of Terry Hoage Vineyards, and Marc Goldberg and Maggie D’Ambrosia, of Windward Vineyard. This was a smart move by the alliance, as these friends amply demonstrated the camaraderie of the Paso Robles wine community. Local chef and caterer Jeffrey Scott prepared the meal, with food sourced from within a 30-mile radius of Paso Robles. Here is additional information about these three outstanding wineries.

• After beginning his winemaking career in Bordeaux but becoming frustrated with the strictures of Bordeaux law, Stephan and Beatrice searched California for a place to locate their own winery. In 1997, they decided Paso Robles was ideal and L’Aventure has become one of Paso’s most celebrated wineries. Asseo crafts some of the most highly sought after wines from the area. His innovative blends – varying combinations of cabernet sauvignon, petite verdot and Rhone varietals.

• After a 13-year NFL career, Terry Hoage and his wife Jennifer, who had been an interior designer, decided on new careers as vintners. They established Terry Hoage Vineyards with the purchase of a vineyard in 2002 and have quickly gained wide recognition for their solely Rhone-style w

ines (of course, all with clever football-related names).

• It’s something you don’t hear much in this region but at Windward Marc Goldberg and Maggie D’Ambrosia produce fine Pinot Noir and only Pinot Noir. Attracted by the success that Dr. Stanley Hoffman and the great Andre Tchelistcheff had with the storied Hoffman Mountain Rnach Pinot Noirs of the 1960s and 1970s, they came to Paso in 1990 to realize a life long dream to make high quality, Burgundian-style pinot.

The next morning showcased Paso’s current claim to fame and what many believe to be the region’s future: Rhone varietals. A panel of nine winemakers/owners gathered at Hope Family Wines to present wines representing the quality and diversity of Rhone-style wines from the region.

• Viognier from Thatcher, whose winemaker Sherman Thatcher, is a former craft brewer who also produces distinctive Zinfandel and Rhone-style wines.

• Roussanne from Kenneth Volk, the founder of Wild Horse winery, who has been committed to Paso since 1981. Although his new, eponymous winery is located

in Santa Barbara, he produces his Bordeaux-style wines and most of his Rhone style wines from Paso fruit.

• Cote du Robles Blanc (roussanne and Grenache blanc) from Eberle. Gary Eberle’s history in Paso reaches back to 1973 and his own winery dates to 1979. Even as attention is paid to the many new Paso wineries, pioneers like Eberle continue to deserve attention.

• A Rhone blend Rose from Anglim, a mostly Rhone focused winery worth your attention, especially the blends.

• Grenache from Austin Hope. The Hope family has been respected grape growers in the region since 1978. Now under the direction of son Austin, the family also produces Treana, Liberty School, and Candor wines.

• “Damas Noir” Mourvedre from Villa Creek. The owners established a popular restaurant in downtown Paso Robles in 1997 and gradually moved into winemaking. Both are worth seeking out.

• Cuvee des Cinc (five Rhone varietals) from Edward Sellers. Ed and his wife Dani left other careers to come to Paso in 2003 and now specialize in Rhone-style win

es, particularly several innovative blends.

• Petite Sirah from Vina Robles. Here is another European transplant, this time from Switzerland, that recognized the potential for great wine from Paso Robles. A Paso resident for 12 years now, Vina Robles produces a wide ranges of wines.

After the tasting, we had lunch outdoors at Farmstand 46, a gourmet deli and the only restaurant (not counting winery cafes) located among the cluster of wineries best accessed from Highway 46 West. This oasis is a collaboration by the owners of Four Vines and the Executive Chef

of Villa Creek restaurant.

Besides location, they really have created a great thing here. The vegetables and herbs come almost exclusively from their own organic garden planted on the property. Most of the meats come from local producers. And the pizzas! We had a delightful lunch of gourmet pizzas cooked in the outdoor wood-fired oven.

After lunch, we made the 45-minute drive to the Hearst Ranch, where about a 1000 cattle graze on the 150,000 acres surrounding the famous Hearst Castle near San Simeon. The ranch is dedicated to producing grass fed beef for its healthier composition, better taste, and its benefits for animal welfare and the environment. And we washed down our juicy samples of beef with wines from the new Hearst Winery.

We finished our day in the seaside village of Cayucos where we enjoyed a special dinner at the gorgeous Cass House Inn & Restaurant. Chef Jensen Lorenzen, who works closely with local farmers and foragers, prepared the meal. We were joined the owners of four of Paso’s newest wineries.

• Co-owner Karl Wittstrom of Ancient Peaks, which was established in 2005 and boasts the southernmost vineyard in the Paso Robles AVA. The property also includes a working cattle ranch.

• Aram Deirmenjian of Kiamie, who comes from a family of table grape growers, founded Kiamie in 2004 with partner Greg Johnson. Aram believes that blends are the future of Paso wine. So, that’s all winemaker Steve Glosser makes, and he may just prove Aram right.

• Kevin Jussila of Kukkula. Jussila and his family moved from southern California to Paso in 2004. They now produce Zinfandel, Rhone varietals and Cabernet Sauvignon, which soon will be certified organic.

• Neil Collins of Lone Madrone. Neil, who has been the winemaker at Tablas Creek since 1998, has also been making Lone Madrone wine with his sister Jackie Meisinger since 1996.

Surely, Paso Robles has seen impressive winery growth. There were approximately 35 wineries in 1995, 50 in 2000, 100 in 2005, and around 200 today. But that is only the beginning of this region’s story. there are six basic reasons why this region in the Central Coast of California may just be the next great wine destination.

Terroir. There are more calcareous soils (limestone soils highly prized by vintners) than anywhere else in California. It has one of the greatest diurnal temperature swings (often 40-50 degrees between day and night). It has one of the longest, most consistent growing seasons. And there is a wide diversity of soils, topography and microclimates.

Fruit. There is a foundational grape – zinfandel – that has long drawn attention to the region. The region now is emerging as the best source of Rhone-style wines outside of the Rhone itself. And it still produces large quantities of cabernet sauvignon that provides a base for many producers all over California.

Location. Paso Robles is centrally located about half way between Los Angeles and San Francisco. It is just 10-20 miles east of the Pacific Ocean, several quaint seaside villages, and the Hearst Castle. It is also a relatively short drive to Monterey in the north and Santa Barbara in the south.

Food. During this visit, we were treated to an amazing variety and quality of raw ingredients – some of the freshest, purest I’ve ever tasted – and some of the most creative cooking. I was impressed by the extent to which almost everyone had embraced sustainable practices.

People. Passionate, dedicated growers and vintners – families who have made Paso their home for generations and who are being joined by a new generation who has chosen to come to this place because of its beauty and potential (see above) but also because of the camaraderie among the producers.

Hospitality. Ninety percent of the wineries make 5000 case or less. They are family run businesses. And you are likely to find one of those family members there when you visit the winery.

For these reasons, I believe Paso Robles may be the next great wine region, if it isn’t already. Anyone looking for a wine country vacation should put Paso Robles at the top of their list.

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An Introduction to Some of France’s Great Dessert Wines

It seems when most people think of French wine, it’s usually one of the great table wines like Bordeaux or Burgundy, or Champagne. But France also is home to some of the greatest dessert wines in the world. And my experience has been that a person just needs to be exposed to their wonders once to become an instant fan. Several of these sweeties originate in the country’s southwest. Here is a brief overview from a recent sampling I enjoyed. The greatest of all and the best known is Sauternes, located just south of Bordeaux, This storied wine results from the marriage of a singular grape, semillon (with small amounts of sauvignon blanc or occasionally muscadelle), and the amazing mold, known as botrytis cinerea.

When grapes are grown in a climate like Sauternes, where humid conditions around harvest lead to the development of the so-called “noble rot” on the grape skins, the result is a shriveling of the grapes and evaporation of the water inside. This leads to deeply concentrated juice that yields a luscious nectar of a wine. When the grape is semillon, you also get a wine that is honeyed and creamy, with a character and texture often described as reminiscent of lanolin. The botrytis also imparts an intriguing earthy, almost spicy quality to the juice. Because of the challenge of getting the growth of this beneficial fungus just right, the wines are difficult to produce and thus are rare and expensive. For a great introduction to the wonders of Sauternes at a fair price, enjoy the 2005 Château de Cosse (375 ml, $25), This is the second wine of the great Château Rieussec. Yet it carries all of the qualities one would look for in fine Sauternes. It can be enjoyed now or over the next several years. Foie gras and blue cheese are the classic traditional matches but I encourage you to experiment.

Further south, the Languedoc, which hugs the Mediterranean Sea, produces a wide variety of sweet wines, mostly from variations of the white grape muscat and occasionally the red grape grenache. These wines, however, are made by fortifying the partially fermented wine with brandy (just as in Port), which stops fermentation and leaves a significant amount of sugar in the remaining juice and results in a significantly higher alcohol drink – usually around 16%. Muscat de Saint Jean de Minervois is one of the most important. From high altitude vineyards on an arid plain near the community of the same name and north of the historic town of Narbonne, the wine is made with muscat blanc à petit grains, the best of the many muscat varieties (imagine dramatic aromatics and fruit forward apricot, citrus and honey). I found the NV “Les Petit Grains” (375 ml, $14), from Les Vignerons de la Méditerranée to be a fine representative of the appellation. From the growers’ association responsible for the good value Val d’Orbieu wines, this meal ender is affordable and would hit the mark with fresh fruit, fruit tarts or dessert cheeses.

From the Rousillon region, a neighbor to the Pyrenees Mountains that form the border with Spain, I have three fine samples worthy of your exploration. All come from the Dauré family of Château de Jau, one of the leading producers in the Rousillon. Among the many wines the estate produces, is a fine Muscat de Rivesaltes. Rivesaltes is an appellation in the Rousillon nestled against the Pyrenees. Although most Rivesaltes is made with the lesser muscat of Alexandria, the 2005 Chateau de Jau Muscat de Rivesaltes (500 ml, $25) is distinguished by the use of muscat blanc à petit grains. It is similar to the Les Petit Grains, though in a lighter style. Another intriguing choice is the 2002 Château de Jau Grand Roussillon (500 ml, $25), which comes from a vineyard located in an extreme environment at the foot of the Pyrenees very near the Banyuls and Rivesaltes appellations. Made from grenache blanc, it shows a nutty quality along with orange, citrus flavors that I think would be ideal with hard cheeses.

Finally, from the terraced vineyards of Banyuls, France’s southern most appellation, comes a great sweet red wine. Banyuls the town is considered to be among the prettiest seaside villages on the entire Mediterranean coast. Grenache noir is the dominant red grape. Here it produces the table wine called Collioure and the great Banyuls sweet wines. Ah, you might be saying (I certainly am), “finally a sweet RED wine.” As delightful as all of the previous wines are, sometimes I just crave red. Since it is red and fortified, it is tempting to compare Banyuls to Port. But there are differences, such as lower alcohol and a slightly lighter style. Still, I just think of it as an easygoing Port. From the Dauré family’s Les Clos de Paulilles estate, the 2005 Rimage (500 ml, $25) is a fine example of Banyuls, bearing a resemblance to Vintage Port with its blackberry, cherry fruit and chocolate notes. Of course, berries and chocolate desserts are a natural match. The defining quality that consistently runs through each of these wines is a fine balance of sugar and acid that keeps the wines fresh, instead of cloying. This enables the wines to be enjoyed equally with dessert or as a dessert in themselves. They deserve to take their place on any list of France’s best wines.

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Winemaker Visits Offer Benefits of First Hand Access

For a wine devotee, Denver is a blessed place. We have always had good distribution of even the most renowned and rare wines. Similarly, we are graced with countless visits from wineries eager to tap into our sophisticated market. Certainly one of the more enjoyable aspects of being a wine writer is the opportunity to meet and taste wines with winery owners and winemakers. Any loss of objectivity is balanced by the opportunity to meet these creative individuals one-on-one. In the latter months of last year, I had the pleasure of visiting with winemakers from all over the world.

Reflecting a growing trend in the wine industry, two of the winemakers emphasized their wineries’ commitment to sustainability. Dave Pearce, winemaker for New Zealand’s Grove Mill in Marlborough, explained the winery’s efforts to achieve carbon neutrality. Established in 1988 by a group of local growers and wine enthusiasts, Grove Mill has become a leader in eco-friendly practices and sustainable winemaking. Over the years, Grove Mill has implemented numerous initiatives and innovations that have helped reduce the carbon dioxide emissions and environmental impacts associated with the growing, production and shipping of its wines, including water conservation, heat recovery, packaging and shipping, and protecting the winery’s neighboring wetlands. As a result, Grove Mill has received numerous green certifications and touts its wines as among the first carbon-neutral products available to consumers worldwide.

In Chile, Emiliana has had sustainability as its primary objective ever since it was founded in 1986. Winemaker Antonio Bravo shared the winery’s commitment to producing wines using integrated vineyard management practices. To that end, they now farm more than 2800 acres in the some of the prime of regions of Casablanca, Maipo and Rapel. This success should be no surprise, as the winery is owned by the Guilisasti family, who also manages the wildly successful Concha y Toro brand. About ten years ago, they began a process of integrating their properties and establishing a network of organic and biodynamic (for the G and Coyam wine) vineyards. Utilizing sustainable agriculture and minimizing the use of synthetic products has garnered Emiliana its own sustainability certification.

With a bit more history behind them, the Boscaini family has been stewards of the vineyards of Masi since the lat 1800s. It seems you can’t last that long without being innovative. And this family, especially over the last fifty years, has been just that. From leading efforts in the 1950’s to identify the historic “cru” vineyard sites for Amarone, to reinventing the traditional technique of double fermentation with the introduction of Campofiorin in 1964, to updating the style of Amarone, using new appassimento and vinification technologies, Masi has been in the forefront of winemaking in the Veneto. Masi wines reflect a commitment to blending tradition with modernity. Masi’s vineyards in northeastern Italy are in the most historic and prestigious viticultural zones and its wines are made with indigenous grapes. But Masi’s winemakers also carefully employ modern techniques to ensure the highest quality.

One of the benefits of these winemaker visits is they offer the chance to learn first hand about new developments at a winery. A good example of this was a meeting with Brian Cosi, assistant winemaker at Freemark Abbey. This winery’s origins can be traced to 1886. The property went through numerous ownership changes in the ensuing decades. And its modern history began in 1966 when it was purchased by three partners who subsequently built it into one of the Napa Valley’s most highly regarded wineries. But it is now part of the seemingly ever-growing Jess Jackson wine empire and the future looks brighter than ever. Brian pointed out that under Jackson Family Farms, Freemark Abbey production has gone from 40,000 cases to 25,000. This is the result of stricter selections in assembly of their Napa Valley Merlot, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon, and particularly the vineyard-designated Bosche and Sycamore Cabernets. The winery still produces admirable Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and their famous late harvest Riesling “Edelwein Gold.”

There also are exciting developments at J Vineyards & Winery in the Russian River Valley. For the winery’s first two decades, owner Judy Jordan focused on establishing the winery as one of California’s premier sparkling wine producers. She had established the winery in 1986, creating her own path to continuing her family’s winemaking tradition (Her father owns Jordan Vineyard & Winery). Although those years saw production of some pretty good Chardonnay and Pinot Gris, over the last decade, Judy has pursued a vision of establishing J Vineyards as a leader in California Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. Here’s where winemaker George Bursick comes in. A thirty-year veteran of the wine industry, George is the ideal winemaker to work with J’s prime Russian River Valley fruit. He was in town recently to showcase an impressing range of newly released single vineyard Pinot Noir. Look for “J” to become a highly sought after purveyor of this enticing wine.

The wines:

Grove Mill

2007 Riesling ($15)
2008 Sauvignon Blanc ($15)
2007 Chardonnay ($16)
2006 Pinot Gris ($20)
2008 Pinot Noir ($22)

Emiliana

Natura Label ($11)
2008 Sauvignon Blanc
2008 Gewurztraminer
2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
2006 Carmenere

Novus Label ($17)
2005 Cabernet-Merlot
2006 Carmenere-Cabernet

2006 Coyam ($30)
2005 G ($90)

Masi

2007 Masianco (pinot grigio, $16)
2005 Serego Alighieri “Bello Ovile” (Tuscan sangiovese, $19)
2005 CampoFiorin “Ripasso” ($20)
2005 Amarone Classico “Costasera” ($33)
2001 Serego Alighieri Amarone Classico “Vaio Armaron” ($36)
2003 Recioto Valpolicella Classico “Casal dei Ronchi Sergio Alighieri”
(500 ml, $60)

Freemark Abbey

2007 Sauvignon Blanc ($24)
2007 Chardonnay ($22)
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon ($35)
2005 Merlot ($25)
2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Bosche ($70)
2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Sycamore Vineyard ($70)

J Vineyards & Winery

2008 Pinot Gris ($16)
2007 Chardonnay ($28)
2007 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley ($35)
2007 Pinot Noir Robert Thomas ($50)
2007 Pinot Noir Nicole’s ($50)
2007 Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast ($50)

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Wine Trends


With the downturn in the economy, 2009 was a challenging year for wine producers and sellers, even while sales figures show that consumers still are drinking plenty of wine. It looks like 2010 also will be a challenge but the wine industry is one of the most innovative. So, there should be plenty of interesting developments in the coming year. Herewith in no particular order of predictability is a sample preview:

Will the continuing recession (yes, it will continue) exert downward pressure on wine prices?

Various industry sources report wine sales doing well overall despite the recession but high-end wines (over $50) are stagnant, except for well-established labels. Understandably, consumers are looking for value. Wines selling below $35 will continue to do well; wines below $20 even better. Even as the US is poised to become the largest wine consumer in the word, the questions in my mind are whether the slow recovery/lingering recession will further test consumers’ tolerance of higher priced wines. And whether producers and sellers (especially restaurants) will continue to resist the downward pressure on prices.

Sustainability Continues its Momentum

The recession has had a side effect of generating a growing interest in boxed wine. Boxed wines also are becoming popular because of their eco-friendliness. Most come in 3-liter packages (equivalent to four bottles). At $15-$25, they are great values. And they are more portable than glass. I enjoyed offerings from Killer Juice, Black Box, Boho, Bandit, Fish Eye, Wine Cube, and From the Tank this past year. Speaking of eco-friendly practices, sustainable agriculture and winemaking will continue to expand throughout the world of wine. California in particular has been a leader in the adoption of sustainable practices. From organic and even biodynamic methods in the vineyards, to using alternative energy sources, recycling and reducing packaging, wineries now regularly tout their efforts to promote sustainability and reduce their carbon footprint. Kudos to Rodney Strong Vineyards on becoming California’s first carbon neutral winery.

Buy Local/Buy Regional

Locally/regionally produced products are one of the hottest culinary trends and that will continue through 2010. Restaurants and shops rightly hype their sourcing of local products. Expect liquor stores and wine shops to expand their selections of locally produced beverages (as they already do with beer). Maybe this will be the year Colorado wineries break through at area restaurants and shops. Help them by making this the year you support Colorado wineries like the Winery at Holy Cross Abbey, Two Rivers, and Sutcliffe.

Lesser-known Grapes and Wine Regions Get More Attention

Partly because of the search for value and partly because wine drinkers are becoming more adventurous, consumers will be more open to trying wines and wine regions with which they are less familiar. For example, Portugal, France’s Languedoc and Loire Valley, Spain’s Navarra and Toro, and Italy’s Molise, Abruzzi and Puglia are great sources of fine values and interesting wines. As for grapes, interest should grow in Gewürtztraminer and Riesling (Germany, Alsace, Washington, Australia, California), Chenin Blanc (Loire, California), Albarino (Spain), Malbec and Torrontes (Argentina), and Carmenere (Chile). The Rhone-style whites – Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier – also are improving and deserve more attention form consumers.

These Bubbles Won’t Burst

In all my years (way more than I like to admit) of drinking and writing about wine, I have never seen as much good bubbly from around the world. Of course, Champagne is still the benchmark but American sparkling wine, Italian Prosecco, Spanish Cava, and Alsatian Crémant especially are generating great interest. With ample affordable choices among these sources, sparklers should become more often an everyday choice to accompany food and not just relegated to celebrations.

Wine and Technology Converge

Wineries like everyone else are looking to capitalize on Web 2.0 popularity, especially with the Millennials, though most everyone is becoming more tech savvy. Some wineries are turning to Wine apps to market their wines, like the Wine DJ iPhone (www.WineDJ.com) application by Liberty School Wines that creates playlists to accompany any mood, situation, and Liberty School wine being consumed. It’s available for free on the Apple App Store and iTunes. I also expect more wineries to experiment with social media as they seek to find more ways to reach potential new markets. I’m skeptical of such ploys but, since I’m not a professional marketer, the move could just pay big dividends. So, I think I’ll grab a glass of, oh, lets say a Salice Salentino made with organic grapes or a Winery at Holy Cross Abbey Colorado Syrah; update my web page; check out my Facebook page; fire off a tweet (I do hate that term); and have a toast to the new year!

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How About Dessert and a Good Book for the Holidays?

Something about the cold weather and holidays always gets me in the mood for dessert wines and thinking about which wine books I want to give or get for Christmas. In this posting, I share a few ideas for this year’s season. Americans love to drink, alcoholic beverages that is. But we have deeply conflicted attitudes about alcohol. This love/hate relationship is at the core of The Prohibition Hangover: Alcohol in America from Demon Rum to Cult Cabernet by Garrett Peck (Rutgers University Press, $27). Peck explores the contradictory history of alcohol in America – from the Temperance movement to Prohibition to the binge drinking present – placing it within the broader context of social, religious, political, health and economic concerns. He concludes this comprehensive, well-documented account applying the lessons of Prohibition to the variety of alcohol-related issues facing us yet today. These include thoughtful considerations on such remnants as control states, blue laws, arcane shipping laws, the obligation of parents to instill responsible drinking values, drunk driving, binge drinking, and balancing the health effects of alcohol with the health detriments of excessive drinking.

If you are a Bordeaux fan or just want to learn more about this most influential wine region, What Price Bordeaux? by Benjamin Lewin (Vendange Press, $35) is a must read. Lewin provides copious detail on Bordeaux’s history, geography and economics. He analyzes the enduring impact of the Classification of 1855 relative to “terroir,” the “branding” of chateau, the region’s class structure, and prices. Other topics covered include the influence of consultants and critics, changing wine styles, global warming, futures, corporate ownership and a thought provoking reclassification. This reclassification and its analysis of the the original classification is the most enlightening I have read (and there have been countless such attempts in recent decades). Commendably Lewin clearly loves Bordeaux but is willing to look at it with a clear eye and challenge assumptions and vested interests, all to the better for consumers.

And to drink while I read these fine books? I crave a little dessert wine, those naturally sweet wines balanced with refreshing acidity so the wine isn’t cloying. The best are viscous and luscious, yet elegant and. They combine the richness of intense fruit with the elegance from low alcohol. Note all prices are for half bottles unless otherwise stated. Late Harvest. Probably the most common type of dessert wine results from grapes left on the vine past normal harvest until they become super ripe, concentrating the sugars. The resulting wine is lush with, pure fruit. A unique example of this is the 2007 Camilo Castilla “Montecristo” Moscatel Blanco Dulce, from a selection of small grain muscat grapes from a 145 year-old estate.

Under certain conditions, botrytis cinerea (the “noble rot”) dehydrates the grapes, concentrates the sugars, and imparts its own honey, herbal and spice characteristics. German Auslese and French Sauternes are the most notable representatives of this style but fine versions also are available from California, like the 2006 J. Lohr White Riesling Arroyo Seco and 2006 Cambria Viognier Tepesquet Vineyard. And I found a fine value in the 2008 d’Arenberg “Stump Jump” Sticky Chardonnay from Australia in certain cases, producers may leave grapes to hang on the vine until they freeze, thus making “Eiswein” in Germany and “Icewine” in Canada. Current releases from Inniskillin, Canada’s original Icewine producer, include a 2006 Vidal Gold, 2007 Riesling, and 2007 Cabernet Franc. These are luxury wines at luxury prices but they certainly will make any special occasion unforgettable. Jackson-Triggs, another highly regarded Canadian producer, offers a fine value in the 2007 Proprietor’s Reserve Vidal. Rather than wait for Nature, some producers actually freeze the grapes themselves after harvest. One of the best is of this style is the unctuous 2008 Joseph Phelps “Eisrebe” made from the scheurebe grape.

Fortified Wine. “Port” from Portugal is very sweet, high alcohol (fortified with brandy), and bursting with red and black fruit flavors. Pre-aged Tawny Ports, like Dow’s, Graham’s or Warre’s “Ten Year Tawny” and “Twenty Year Tawny” are ethereal. While, not a Port but made in that style, Charbay Pomegranate Dessert Wine from 100% organically grown fruit and fortified with Pinot Noir Brandy is a delightful alternative. Arrested Development. Moscato d’Asti from Italy’s Piedmont is slightly effervescent wine made from the partially fermented juice of white muscat grapes. It is sweet but not too, delightfully aromatic, and delicate on the palate. As a bonus, its low alcohol (5-6%) makes the wine equally comfortable as an aperitif or a dessert wine. I found a recently tasted 2007 Saracco is a perfect example.

So, get yourself a copy of these books, grab a glass of dessert wine and enjoy the holiday season.

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California Pinot Noir Hits Its Stride

It was not all that long ago that most California Pinot Noir was just pleasant at best, while much of it didn’t even rise to that level. Thankfully, that is no longer true. With producers identifying more appropriate growing sites (mostly cooler climates), there are countless good to outstanding wines now available for consumers.

My biggest concern is that most Pinot Noir is pretty expensive, as you will see. Although I have resigned myself to this problem with Burgundy, these California Pinots are good in their own right and are (often significantly) less expensive. In the column, I’ve categorized my recommendations by the state’s main Pinot Noir regions and highlight the best values in bold.

Mendocino County is best known for fine Zinfandel and Gewurztraminer but in recent years especially the Anderson Valley has taken its place among the top sources of Pinot Noir.

2006 Goldeneye Anderson Valley ($55). This is the tenth vintage from this Duckhorn owned Pinot specialist and it continues a string of quality wines.

2007 Migration Anderson Valley ($34). This is the seventh vintage and a solid effort from the Goldeneye folks in a more immediately drinkable style.

Sonoma County contains arguably the most abundant sources for Pinot Noir in the state. Combined, the Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast and western part of Carneros account for probably more outstanding Pinot Noir than anywhere else in the state.

Russian River Valley

2007 Pali Bluffs ($19). This young Pinot specialist was formed in 2005 by a group of friends and coworkers. Brian Loring, one of the state’s most respected pinot winemakers, makes the wines.

2006 Freeman ($44). Founded in 2001 by Ken and Akiko Freeman, this winery works with several highly regarded growers to source top quality fruit.

2007 Sequana Dutton Ranch ($40). Sequana is the promising first venture into Pinot Noir for Hess Family Estates (owners of the Hess Collection in Napa Valley).

2007 Sequana Sundawg Ridge Vineyard ($50)

2006 Patz & Hall Chenoweth ($55). This 20 year-old Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialist sources fruit from around the state to make almost exclusively single-vineyard bottlings.

Sonoma Coast

2007 La Crema ($25). La Crema was founded in 1979 and quickly established a reputation for good value Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It is now part of the Jess Jackson empire.

2006 MacRostie Wildcat Mountain ($40). Winemaker Steve MacRostie, who established his own operation in 1987 in Carneros, now is making impressive wines from this new vineyard.

2007 Patz & Hall ($42)

2006 Freeman ($44)

2006 Freeman Akiko’s Cuvee ($54)

Carneros

2007 Chateau St. Jean Sonoma County ($20). One of the benchmark wineries of Sonoma County now part of the Fosters/Beringer conglomerate, this wine contains mostly fruit from the Benoist Ranch in Carneros, with some Russian River Valley fruit from the famed Durell Vineyard.

2007 Sebastiani ($28). Founded in 1904, this historic winery is now owned by Robert Foley who also owns such Central Coast wineries as Foley, Curtis and Firestone and Napa Valley’s Kuleto.

2007 Clos du Val ($30). This winery with a distinctively French heritage was founded in the Napa Valley in 1972 with a focus on Bordeaux varietals. It since has established a strong presence in Carneros.

2007 Etude ($42). Another highly regarded producer in the Fosters/Beringer stable.

2007 MacRostie Carneros ($30)

Although large swaths of Monterey County have been given over to large corporate vineyards, certain microclimates have been cultivated successfully by small, quality minded producers. The Santa Lucia Highlands overlooking the Salinas Valley especially has emerged as prime Pinot country.

Santa Lucia Highlands

2007 Paraiso ($25). Growers in Monterey since 1978 began bottling their own wines about 20 years ago with notable results.

2007 Pessagno Lucia Highland Vineyard ($28). Steve Pessagno, a longtime winemaker and grower in the area, now is making waves with his eponymous winery.

2007 Sequana Sarmento Vineyard ($32)

Other Monterey recommendations:

2006 Irony Monterey ($16). Originally conceived of as a Napa Valley brand by Delicato Family Vineyards, they found Monterey, where the family owns San Bernabe Vineyard, a more suitable place for Pinot Noir.

2007 Kali Hart Monterey ($19). This is a second label for Talbott Vineyards, one of the stat’s most prestigious Chardonnay producers. Named after the owner’s youngest daughter, this Pinot is made in an approachable style using estate fruit.

Next to Sonoma, Santa Barbara County has emerged in recent years as the state’s premier Pinot Noir region, with two great Pinot Noir AVAs. At the northern end of the county, the Santa Maria Valley is home to the famous Bien Nacido Vineyard and a growing number of impressive vineyards.

From a narrow opening near the Pacific Ocean, the Santa Ynez Valley broadens inland encompassing the vineyards and wineries that inspired the movie “Sideways.” The Santa Rita Hills in the western end of the valley, the home of the celebrated Sanford & Benedict vineyard, has garnered special attention in recent years.

Santa Maria Valley

2007 Cambria Julia’s Vineyard ($21). Cambria is a twenty year-old estate owned by Jackson Family Estates and a reliable source of good values.

2006 Byron Nielson ($28). This was the first vineyard planted to vinifera grapes in Santa Barbara County in 1964. Since then Byron has been in the forefront of winemaking achievement in the area.

2007 Cambria Bench Break Vineyard ($30)

2006 Byron Bien Nacido ($39)

2006 Byron Sierra Madre ($40)

2007 Fess Parker Bien Nacido Santa Barbara ($50). The well-known actor planted a vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley in 1989 and now has extensive holdings, as well as an inn and spa. They also source fruit from top vineyards in the county, as in this wine.

2007 Fess Parker Pommard Clone Bien Nacido ($50)

2006 Byron Monument ($60)

Santa Ynez Valley Santa Rita Hills

2007 Sea Smoke Southing ($50). This ten-year-old hillside vineyard has quickly established itself as a producer of some of the area’s best grapes. They focus on bottling different expressions of the site. These two new releases, while different (Southing is more elegant; Ten is more powerful) are both breathtaking.

2007 Sea Smoke Ten ($80)

2007 Fess Parker Ashley’s ($50)

2007 Fess Parker Clone 115 ($50)

Other Santa Barbara County:

2007 Pali Huntington ($19)

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Colorado Brewers Dominate the GABF

rich mauroThe 28th Great American Beer Festival (GABF) held a few weeks ago at the Colorado Convention Center continued its record setting ways. While most everything else in the economy is contracting, it seems the beer world just keeps expanding. Attendance, volunteers, and the number of breweries, beers on the floor, beers in the competition, and judges all increased over last year! And Colorado dominated the competition with 45 medals won (19 percent of the total), besting even such craft beer powerhouses as California and Oregon. Coors won the Large Brewing Company and Large Brewing Company Brewer of the Year awards.Colorado’s craft brewers stepped up big time. They were led by Dry Dock Brewing Co. of Aurora, which took home the Small Brewing Company and Small Brewing Company Brewer of the Year awards. Upslope Brewing Co. of Boulder shared a Bronze medal in the Pro-Am competition, which pairs amateur brewers with professional brewers, for a brew called “Time of the Season.”

Here’s the impressive list of award winners.

Three medals each:

· Ska Brewing Co., Durango: True Blonde Ale (Bronze, English-Style Summer Ale), Buster Nut Brown (Silver, English Style Brown Ale), Steel Toe Stout (Bronze, Sweet Stout)

· Dry Dock Brewing Co., Aurora: Reines Marzen (Silver, German Style Märzen), Bismarck Altbier (Gold, German Style Altbier), U-Boat Hefeweizen (Silver, South German Style Hefeweizen)

· Great Divide Brewing Co., Denver: Hoss (Bronze, Rye Beer), Yeti Imperial Stout, (Silver, Imperial Stout), Old Ruffian Barley Wine, (Bronze, Barley Wine Style Ale)

· Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant Group, Broomfield: Czech Pilsner (Silver, Bohemian Style Pilsener), Golden Export (Bronze, Munich Style Helles), Dunkles, (Bronze, European Style Dunkel)

· The Sand Lot, Denver: Where the Helles Bill? (Silver, Munich Style Helles), Move Back, (Gold, Dortmunder or German-Style Oktoberfest), Greenside Up (Silver, Dortmunder or German-Style Oktoberfest)

Two medals each:

· Avery Brewing Co., Boulder: Brabant (Bronze, Experimental Beer), The Kaiser (Gold, German Style Doppelbock or Eisbock)

· Colorado Boy Pub & Brewery, Ridgway, CO: Colorado Boy IPA (Bronze, Extra Special Bitter or Strong Bitter), Colorado Boy Irish (Silver, Irish Style Red Ale)

· Glenwood Canyon Brewing Co., Glenwood Springs: Cardiff (Gold, Other Strong Beer), Carbonator (Bronze, German Style Doppelbock or Eisbock)

One medal each:

· Backcountry Brewery, Frisco: May Bock (Silver, Bock)

· Bristol Brewing Co., Colorado Springs: Cheyenne Cañon Ale (Silver, American Style Brown Ale)

· Colorado Brewing Co./Draft House, Boulder: 44 Pale Ale (Silver, American Style Pale Ale)

· Durango Brewing Co., Durango: Durango Colorfest (Gold, American Style Amber Lager)

· Left Hand Brewing Co., Longmont: Smokejumper (Gold, Smoked Beer)

· Mountain Sun Pub and Brewery, Boulder: Temperance (Bronze, American-Belgo-Style Ale)

· New Belgium Brewing Co., Inc., Fort Collins: NBB Love (Silver, German-Style Sour Ale)

· Rockyard Brewing Co., Castle Rock: Double Eagle Ale (Bronze, American-Style Wheat Beer)

· Trinity Brewing Co, Colorado Springs: TPS Report (Gold, Experimental Beer)

· Upslope Brewing Co., Boulder: Upslope Dunkel Weizen (Bronze, German-Style Wheat Ale)

I was glad top see the festival continued its emphasis on matching beer with food. There were many interesting combinations available in the Beer & Food Pavilion. There also were informative seminars and cooking demonstrations. Even more impressive was that the festival continues its efforts to remain on the cutting edge of sustainability initiatives. A good example was the partnership with “Zero Hero” to assure all disposable items were either compostable or recyclable. Another welcome innovation this year was the “Farm to Table” Pavilion. This joined chefs and local farmers with craft brewers to create exciting dishes and satisfying pairings. The Brewers Association, a brewing company trade association based in Boulder that markets the festival should be proud for organizing such a successful event in these tough economic times. And the future looks good, too. The Brewers Association also reports continued growth in the craft beer industry, with the country now reaching 1525 breweries, the most in 100 years. Let’s all raise a glass …. or two!

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Understanding Hunter Valley Semillon

Semillon “is one of the unsung heroes of white wine production.” So it says e definitive Oxford Companion to Wine. Unsung presumably because although the grape is widely cultivated, there are very few places where it produces wines of distinction. But where it does those wines can be glorious. The most notable of these are the great dessert wines of Sauternes in which Semillon is the leading component (blended with sauvignon blanc) lending a plump, fleshy quality, butterscotch, lanolin and aging potential. Somewhat less so are the fine dry whites of Graves (also blended with sauvignon). Typically, these wines are oaky, creamy and rich, with nuttty, honey, and melon. Most everywhere else semillon is an afterthought, a minor blending component or occasionally an unremarkable varietal wine.

The most notable exception is the Hunter Valley of Australia, a region about 2 hours north of Sidney that enjoys the distinction of being the location of the first vineyards planted in Australia (1830). I recently had a chance to experience the uniqueness of Hunter Valley Semillon as I tasted three recent releases from Brokenwood Wines, a 40 year-old winery that has become an icon in the valley. Founded in 1970 by Tony Albert, John Beeston and James Halliday (AKA Australia’s leading wine critic), Brokenwood has evolved into one of Australia’s benchmark wineries. Iain Riggs, winemaker since 1982, crafts not only some of the Hunter Valley’s most prized Semillons but also one of Australia’s most iconic single vineyard wines, the Graveyard Shiraz. As these wines demonstrated, there is something about the combination of sandy, loamy, clay soils, high humidity, hot but wet summers, and dry winters there that create a hospitable environment for a style of Semillon that is austere and delicate when young. But, thanks to the high acidity, have a rare ability to age (some reportedly as long as twenty plus years) into wines with a wondrous richness and complexity.

For those used to soft, fruity, sweetish whites, these wines may be a little difficult to comprehend. They are made without oak, are quite bracing, and sport refreshingly low alcohol (10-11%), perfect as an aperitif or with delicate seafood dishes. But, after five, ten, or more years, they develop into luscious wines of notably different character, suitable for richer dishes. Brokenwood’s 2008 Hunter Valley (10%, $20) is typical of the young style: pale, citrusy and austere. The aroma is a bit muted, though there are hints of racy lime, lemongrass and smoky herb with a suggestion of mineral. It is refreshingly spirited in the mouth with lively acidity and light spice in the finish. It’s fun to drink now but it should evolve nicely five more years. The 2005 Brycefield, Belford Vineyards (11%, $32) gives hints to what happens as Hunter Valley Semillon ages. The aroma has broadened, showing citrus, fig, tangerine and butterscotch, along with grassy and mineral (talc?) notes. The palate is still extremely lively with more tangerine, citrus and some spice. The texture has rounded and filled out. Will evolve for several more years. The epitome of Brokenwood Semillon is the 2003 ILR Reserve (11.5%, $45). The color is golden. The aromas display toast, honey, and almond notes. The palate enters with lively acidity, lemon, lime, melon mineral and herb laced through a rich texture. As good as this is now, one senses even more pleasures yet to come. These Hunter Valley Semillons are great wines in the making, if you have the patience to wait for them. Who says white wines can age?!

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Dry Creek Valley Dominates Zinfandel Tastings

As my favorite wine, I naturally drink a lot of Zinfandel. One reason is it’s quite versatile with food. The more elegant styles are great with red meat, especially lamb. The more assertive styles easily compliment spicy foods like Italian and Indian. But I really like it with barbecue and grilled meats like burgers, sausage and barbecued chicken. And even chocolate! I mostly love Zinfandel because it captures the essence of exuberance and zest in a glass. Although it can be made in a variety of styles, it typically is big and bold, with raspberry and blackberry fruit accented with spice and a brash, even a little wild character often described as bramble. Even better, it is one of the best values in wine, considering the overall quality, which can rival the finest wines in the world, and that most of even the best wines are under $35.

There is one potential problem, though: Zinfandel tends toward high alcohol, which can make for excessively hot, sweet, flabby wines. It is possible, though, to balance the alcohol with intense fruit. And, thankfully, most of the wines below do that. My tastings this year were dominated by Dry Creek Valley, that narrow strip of beauty in northern Sonoma. Here are my recommendations:

Rosenblum. Founder Kent Rosenblum has sold his winery after thirty years to Diageo but remains as the consulting winemaker. During that time, Rosenblum’s zins (about 22) have become benchmarks for the varietal. The hillside vineyard location has yielded a 2006 Rockpile Road ($35) that is full, rich and intense.

Dry Creek Vineyard. Founded by David Stare in 1972, this is the modern day pioneer of Dry Creek Valley wine. While a variety of wines are made, including very good Sauvignon Blanc, I have always been partial to the Zinfandels. The 2006 Somers Ranch ($34) is a textbook zin from a hillside vineyard. The 2006 Beeson Ranch ($34) offers impressive depth and surprising suppleness from a 120-year-old vineyard.

Dashe Cellars. More people should know about the wines of Anne and Michael Dashe. This husband and wife team focuses primarily on making wines from older hillside vineyards in Sonoma County. The 2007 ($24) offers the intense fruit and structure that is the signature of that terroir.

Mazzocco Winery. This winery’s Zinfandel portfolio has expanded dramatically, now featuring around 15 different bottlings. In general, the wines below (all 2006) are intense and jammy, with crisp acidity and an abundant finish. They also are the highest alcohol table wines I’ve tasted in a long time. They are controversial among critics but I found them to be enough in balance with abundant fruit and texture that the extra alcohol was less noticeable, except for heat in the finish. My suggestion? Make up your own mind.

· West Dry Creek ($32) and Reserve ($50)

· Warm Springs Ranch ($32) and Reserve ($50)

· Maple ($40) and Reserve ($60)

· Pony ($32) and Reserve ($50)

· Smith Orchard Reserve ($50)

· Lytton ($29)

Dutcher Crossing. This winery was established in 2001 as the realization of a lifelong dream of Debra Mathy, who had previously been a teacher in Colorado. The elegant 2007 Bernier-Sibary Vineyard ($39) offers strong darks fruits and a slightly bitter finish, while the 2007 Maple Vineyard “Bill’s Block” ($49) is a powerful mouthful.

Lake Sonoma. Founded in 1977 and owned by Gary Heck (Korbel, Kenwood, Valley of the Moon) since 1996, Lake Sonoma is a reliable source of flavorful, well-priced zins. The well-regarded Saini Farms benchland vineyard delivered a nice 2006 Old Vine ($22).

Artezin. This label is owned by the Hess family (of Hess Collection in Napa and wineries in Argentina, Australia, South Africa and Russian River Valley). Hess works closely with selected growers to source quality fruit, a strategy that was quite successful with the 2007 ($25).

Not surprisingly, other areas in Sonoma County also showed well.

Murphy-Goode. Founded in 1985 and now owned by Jess Jackson, two current releases, the 2005 “Snake Eyes” Ellis Ranch ($35), from a 70-year-old vineyard in Alexander Valley, and 2006 Liar’s Dice ($21), an easy drinking blend of Dry Creek and Alexander Valley fruit, hit the mark.

Rodney Strong. Founded by the iconic Rod Strong in 1962, the winery was purchased by Tom Klein in 1989 but the wines still are made by Rick Sayre who has been the winemaker since 1979. Rick’s 2007 “Knotty Vines” ($20) is a fine blend of Russian River and Alexander Valley fruit.

St. Francis. This Sonoma Valley winery dates to 1971 and the vines that sourced the 2006 Old Vines ($22) are at least 50 years old, head-trained and dry farmed from small family owned vineyards in Sonoma County.

Napa Valley, too, can deliver very good zin.

Frank Family. Hollywood executive Rich Frank’s winery near Calistoga on the historic Larkmead winery property produces notable cabs, Chardonnay and sparkling wines. But I’ve always enjoyed the zin and the 2006 ($37) is another winner.

Napa Cellars. This winery is owned by the Trinchero family who are famous for their Sutter Home wines but now also own something like 25 brands. Much of the fruit for the 2006 Napa Valley ($22) was sourced from the warmer regions of Napa Valley, including Calistoga, St. Helena and Pope Valley. As such, it shows ripe fruit and a lush texture.

Kuleto. Established by well-known restaurant designer Pat Kuleto and now majority-owned by Foley Family Estates, this mountain vineyard overlooking the Napa Valley from the east produces fine Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Syrah. The 2006 Estate ($40) shows they also can make excellent Zinfandel.

Paraduxx. This is a one wine winery built by Duckhorn to produce a “Super Tuscan” style blend dominated by zinfandel. The 2005 ($45) is a well-structured wine that includes cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc.

Additional recommendations in order of preference:

2006 Rosenblum Annette’s Reserve Mendocino County ($35)

2006 Rosenblum Eagle Point Mendocino County ($25)

2006 Rosenblum Carla’s Reserve Contra Costa County ($30)

2007 Artezin Mendocino County ($18)

2006 Dancing Bull California ($12)

2006 Mazzocco Stone Alexander Valley ($29)

2008 Ironstone Old Vine Lodi ($10)

2007 Rosenblum Contra Costa County ($17)

2007 Shannon Ridge Lake County ($19)

2006 Twisted Vines Old Vine California ($8)