The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

While varietally labeled wines are the most popular among consumers, wine blends have increased significantly in interest in recent years. Instead of the character of just one variety, blends allow consumers to experience how different aromas and flavors from different grapes come together to create a unique assemblage. 

While varietally labeled wines are the most popular among consumers, wine blends have in increased significantly in esteem in recent years. Instead of the character of just one variety, blends allow consumers to experience how different aromas and flavors from different grapes, vineyard sources and barrels come together to create a unique assemblage. The result is a more complete, multidimensional wine. 

Wines such as these demonstrate that just as cultural diversity is a societal strength; so diversity in winemaking has distinctive benefits. The result is a more complete, multidimensional wine with balance amidst complexity – the wine version of E pluribus unum (“from many one”). The wines below, from Napa and Sonoma, display the synergy that embodies the classic sentiment of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts.

First, two good values:

Arguably, the best value in my tasting, the 2019 Alma de Cattleya Sonoma County ($27) – 2/3 syrah, with cabernet sauvignon and merlot – is surprisingly complex with persistent dark and red berries, a graceful structure, with savory spices, and a supple texture.

Also quite tasty, the 2019 The Paring Santa Barbara ($25) is delightfully easy drinking. It shares vineyard sources with its winemaker’s top tier wines, JONATA and The Hilt (Santa Ynez Valley, Sta. Rita Hills and Santa Maria Valley). Mostly cabernet sauvignon with merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot, it displays classic notes of cassis, tobacco and chocolate, focused fruit and shapely tannins 

These wines are listed in order of my preference but all are recommended:

Located in the rolling hills of Ballard Canyon in Santa Ynez Valley, the 2018 Jonata “Fenix” ($85) shows that Bordeaux varieties can shine in an area that is known for its Rhone-style wines. With 2/3 merlot, plus cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, and cabernet franc, this is an impressive complex of mixed berries, accents of toasty oak and mocha, with a powerful yet poised and refined palate. 

Fifteen years ago, Duckhorn released its first red blend, The Discussion. As the pinnacle of its portfolio, the current vintage (2017, $155), mostly cabernet sauvignon, with significant merlot, and some petit verdot and cabernet franc, is juicy and highly structured, delivering red berries, elevated with toasted, creamy oak.

Aperture Cellars in Sonoma County continues to amaze with its complex, well-endowed Bordeaux-style wines. The 2018 Red Blend “Soil Series” ($55) with 1/3 cabernet sauvignon, 1/3 merlot, with malbec, cabernet franc and petit Verdot from hillside vineyards is amazing at the price. It is well-endowed, with mixed berries and savory accents. It is rich and expansive, powerful but graceful.

Priest Ranch is located high in the Vaca Mountains on the eastern side of the Napa Valley. The 2018 Peacemaker ($90), a cabernet sauvignon and merlot blend, is energetic with red fruits, anise, tobacco, and full-bodied, with fine-grained tannins. 

Established on Mt. Veeder ninety-five years ago, Brandlin Estate wines excel with elegant, structured mountain grown fruit. The 2018 “Henry’s Keep” ($115), cabernet sauvignon accented with malbec, cabernet franc, and petit verdot, is packed with focused berry fruit, anise and herbal notes and finely knit tannins. 

The Gamble Family has farmed Napa Valley over 100 years. Their 2017 Paramount ($90), which is sourced from the family’s vineyards throughout the valley, is near-equal parts cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and merlot with petit verdot. It’s succulent plum and raspberry wraps subtle vanilla and herbal touches and glides along a rich mouthfeel.

From a leading organic and biodynamic producer in the Sonoma Valley, the 2018 Hamel Family “Isthmus” ($90) features 2/3 cabernet sauvignon, with merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot from the producer’s two estates, Hamel Family and Nun’s Canyon in the Moon Mountain District. With ripe, concentrated dark fruits, given complexity with notes of tobacco, crushed rock and forest notes, and a toasty finish.

The 2016 Ashes & Diamonds “Grand Vin No. 3” A & D Vineyard ($95) is a blend of merlot and cabernet franc from the Ashes & Diamonds Vineyard within the winery’s Oak Knoll District estate. It is a wine of finesse and elegance that maintains fresh red and blue fruit flavors while exalting secondary characteristics of baking spice and herbal tones. 

Paraduxx was created by Duckhorn Vineyards, which is celebrated for its Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines, in 1994 as a winery devoted to Napa Valley blends and the exploration of other varieties and styles. The 2019 Proprietary Red ($54) 

is a bold, expressive blend of mostly cabernet sauvignon with petite sirah, zinfandel, petit verdot, syrah, and malbec. It is rich, bold and full flavored, with soft tannins. 

The 2018 Dry Creek “The Mariner” ($50) – 2/3 cabernet sauvignon, with merlot, malbec, petit verdot and cabernet franc – shows cassis and blueberries, with notes of chocolate, cured meats, and savory herbs, in a firm frame with a slightly dusty character.

From its base in a far western corner of Paso Robles, Justin Vineyards produces a range of highly regarded Bordeaux-style wines. With their new Right Angle line, they seek to express an elegant, eclectic character of Paso Robles. Hence, this wine (2019, $35) mixes cabernet sauvignon, malbec, petit verdot and petite sirah to achieve an intriguing mix of dark fruit, spice, savory elements and sleek texture. 

The 2017 Sosie “Cavedale” ($45) is from a high elevation Moon Mountain vineyard near Sonoma’s Bennett Valley and a winery that takes France as its benchmark. This wine – 45% cabernet sauvignon, 45% merlot and 10% cabernet franc – delivers a well-structured wine with bright, intense red fruit, refreshing acidity, with notes of pepper, tobacco and dark chocolate. 

Italy’s Veneto region is home to cultural touchstones like Venice, Padua, Vincenza and Verona. And to the important wine growing regions of Soave and Valpolicella, particularly for the purposes of this column the province of Verona. 

After World War II, the white wine Soave and the red wine Valpolicella became incredibly popular in the U.S. But eventually quality suffered as mass production increased. In recent years, though, quality minded producers – such as Azienda Agricola Inama and Tenuta Sant’Antonio – have led a reemergence of these wines. 

Soave is made primarily from the indigenous garganega grape, typically crisp with suggestions of citrus, honeydew, and a touch of appealing bitterness. 

Inama is particularly notable for producing impressive Soave from the Classico zone, the original area of production, for over half a century. Inama’s vineyards cover seventy acres mainly on and around the dormant Monte Foscarino volcano. 

Its entry-level “Vin Soave” is a fantastic value (2020, $16). But it is Inama’s “cru” Soaves where you can really taste the potential garganega can achieve. Inama has elevated the quality and precision of the grape with the production of single-vineyard expressions. These 100% garganega wines are richer and more complex but still attractively priced.

The 2019 “Carbonare” ($28) from a fifty-year-old hillside vineyard with eastern exposure and diverse basalt soils, showcases the freshness of the fruit – plump, fresh pear, banana and apricot – and the unique terroir. The 2019 “Foscarino” ($28), a special selection from some of the oldest vines on Mount Foscarino, offers brisk apple, and pear.

The 2019 Vigneto du Lot ($28) is a companion wine that is intended to show a different side of the amazingly versatile garganega. The vineyard (vigneto) is planted on a particular rootstock (Vitis rupestris du Lot) and shows impressive concentration, riper fruit, and powerful structure. 

The 2019 Foscarino ($28) is a new wine from the finest micro parcels of old vine Garganega planted in terraces across the slopes of Monte Foscarino. The resulting wine is refined and elegant with the persistent minerality and complexity. 

Valpolicella is made mostly from the native corvina grape, notable for freshness and elegance, higher acidity and bold cherry fruit. 

Sant’Antonio produces a diverse set of estate-grown wines – from young, light Valpolicella to full-bodied Amarone – from the Illasi Valley and Monti Garbi. Although the Castagnedi family has tended vineyards in the area for over one hundred years, the family released their first vintage in 1995. 

The entry level Valpolicella, 2019 Nanfrè ($15) is typically vibrant and light, with tart red cherry and hints of cinnamon. The 2018 Monti Garbi Ripasso ($22) achieves richer, more intense red fruit flavors and surprising complexity by macerating Valpolicella with grape materials remaining after Amarone fermentation. 

At the tip of the Valpolicella pyramid is Amarone della Valpolicella. It is a special type of Valpolicella made using the ancient “appassimento” process, which involves drying the grapes to concentrate the juice. The 2016 “Selezione Antonio Castegnedi” ($47), a special selection tribute to the Castagnedi family’s father, and three months appassimento, is an impressive display of power and deep dark fruits, hints of baking spice, mocha, smoke, and tobacco, typical of this raisiny, complex wine. 

But the Castagnedis don’t stop there. They have elevated the appassimento process to produce two wines of remarkable complexity and depth and that will evolve for several years. 

The single vineyard 2015 Campo dei Gigli ($73). dried three months, bursts with concentrated dark fruits, a dense palate, and persistent mocha, anise, and spice. 

At the epitome is 2008 “Lilium Est” Riserva ($185), a limited production special reserve, with three months of appassimento, extensively aged, is still amazingly fresh, even fruity but with concentrated, dried black fruits, spice, licorice, minerals, woodsy notes, and large scaled richness. 

Sicily is not your average warm climate wine growing region. As with other such regions, Sicily offers a rich fruit profile in both red and white wines. But there are a broad array of soils, terroirs and climates around the island (including Mt. Etna, Italy’s largest active volcano) leading to a similarly wide variety of vinous representations of the island. 

The Phoenicians introduced winemaking on the island around the 10^th century BCE. 

And its central location in Mediterranean has made it a crossroads for many seafaring cultures, including Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans and several others.  

Over many generations, winegrowers integrated these influences with an emphasis on the island’s indigenous varieties, like neighboring Italy. To date, more than 60 varieties are grown in Sicily, of which about 20 are indigenous. Still, Sicilian wines were not well known internationally. 

That has changed over the last few decades as the quality and reputation of Sicilian wines has improved and consumer interest in different grape varieties has increased. And now Sicilia DOC, an organization representing over 450 local wineries devoted to preserving Sicily’s indigenous grape varieties and sharing the island’s rich winemaking culture and distinctive terroir. Sicilia DOC governs rules for quality among a range of varieties and styles. And another designation, Etna DOC, is an indicator of viticultural protection and a guarantee of quality for wines produced from around Mount Etna.

And Sicily has become a leader in sustainability. SOStain (protocol for water conservation, carbon reduction, lighter bottle weights, biodiversity, energy saving and farmer health), ban on chemical herbicides, emphasis on energy efficiency, eco-friendly materials, commitment to biodiversity, limit on bottle weights.

This column focuses on the leading red grapes; a future column will highlight white grapes. Nero d’Avola is the most prominent and widely planted. Its expressions range from robust and spicy to suave and velvety, elegant and supple to unctuous and earthy, usually with fresh and juicy red fruits.

Nerello Mascalese is especially well suited to the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna. Enticing for its fresh, red berries and herbaceous nuances, it mimics the firmness of sangiovese and the fruit of pinot noir. 

Frappato tends to be exuberantly fruity, floral and light with a wiry, yet glossy character.. It is sometimes blended with nero d’Avola to deepen its character. 

The Sicilia DOC rules also allow certain French varieties, which pays off nicely with the Syrah recommended below.

The Wines:

Nero d’Avola 

2019 Donnafugata “Sherazade” ($22) juicy blackberry, plum, herbs, olive, smooth 

2018 Corvo “Colomba Platino” ($18) bright, crisp cherry, raspberry, herbs, soft 

2019 Alessandro di Camporeale “Donnatà” ($20) dark and red berries, earth, herbs, easygoing 

2016 Ermes “Epicentro” Riserva ($18) dark notes, char, concentrated, fresh

2019 Ermes “Quattro Quarti” Appassimento ($18) jammy, rounded, soft 

Nerello Mascalese

2018 Donnafugata “Sul Vulcano” Etna Rosso ($35) tangy cherry, currant, smoky, herbs 

Frappato

2020 Valle dell’Acate “Il Frappato” ($23) lively, red berries, earth, olive, elegant, 

2020 Mandrarossa “Costadune” ($18) bright, deep raspberry, pomegranate, herbs

Blends

2016 Regaleali “Rosso del Conte” ($70) nearly equal parts nero d’Avola and perricone, justifies its price with concentrated red and black fruits, olive, fennel, and rich structure 

2018 Santo Spirito “aMarAnto” ($20) equal parts frappato and nero d’Avola, elegant, floral, red berries

French Varieties

2017 Rapitalà “Nadir” Syrah ($20) bold black fruit, black pepper, savory, round 

Sparkling wine is so popular some version of it is made in almost every country that produces wine. Although sparkling wine is appropriate for any occasion any time of year, the holidays are its prime time. Whether for a celebration or to drink with your meal, these fine bubbles from are just the ticket. All wines here are nonvintage unless otherwise noted. 

Italy has a long history of producing sparkling wines from traditional Champagne grapes (chardonnay and pinot noir) using the Champagne Method (the secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle). Such wines are labeled “Metodo Classico”.  It may be surprising to many but the Piemonte, justly famous for its red wines, is also a source of fine Metodo Classico. Especially the Alta Langa denomination, where they have been doing this since the 1850s. Enrico Serafino, established over 140 years ago, produces fine reds but is best known as a specialist in high quality Metodo Classico. One the winery’s best is the 2017 “Oudeis” Alta Langa Brut ($27), named after Odysseus, 80% pinot nero (pinot noir), 20% chardonnay, is a fantastic value with dramatic apple, yeasty notes, and impressive structure. The 100 percent pinot nero 2016 Brut Rosé ($28), equally enticing, offers a sophisticated, lightly toasty experience. 

In France, there is crémant, bubbly from other regions. I particularly like Crémant d’Alsace. A region better known for amazing rieslings and gewurztraminers, its Crémant more often uses the classic Champagne varieties – pinot noir and chardonnay – though pinot blanc also is common, and pinot gris and riesling may make it into some blends. A good example is the Lucien Albrecht Brut ($23). From a winery that dates to 1698 and was a pioneer in the establishment of the first Alsace Crémants about fifty years ago, this blend of estate grown pinot blanc and auxerrois is distinguished by a delicate, round palate bursting notes of apples, peaches, and apricots plus a suggestion of salinity.

Méthode Cap Classique is a creative way of classifying South African sparkling wine made in the traditional Champagne Method. MCCs often use traditional Champagne varieties, as well as more signature South African grapes like chenin blanc. These are up and coming bubbly that deserve your attention. Graham Beck arguably is the best producer. A good example is its nonvintage Brut ($29), nearly equal parts chardonnay and pinot noir, it is crisp with intense lemon wrapped in a toasty, creamy blanket. 

A new source for me (and probably for you), Austrian Sekt is a delightful surprise. The Hillinger winery farms organically in the Burgenland, unofficially known as the red wine quarter of Austria. Its Secco ($22) is a rose of at least 85% pinot noir produced by the “tank method” (also known as the Charmat method) in which the secondary fermentation takes place in stainless tanks.  For this wine, the process yielded juicy red cherries with a hint of cream and a touch of sweetness. While Austrian Sekt has been made since 1842, the Malat winery produced the first Austrian estate bottled Sekt in 1976 in the Kremstal on the south bank of the Danube River, just an hour from Vienna. Its Brut Nature Reserve ($56) is predominantly chardonnay with pinot noir produced by the traditional method. It offers bright citrus, apple and pear with yeasty, nutty and brioche aromas. 

Sparkling wine has increasingly found a place in the portfolios of California wineries. The best follow the Champagne formula. Here are six fine choices.

Frank Family Vineyards in Napa Valley has produced sparkling wine since its founding in 1993, continuing the tradition of the previous owner Hanns Kornell Champagne Cellars, which occupied the historic winery building (the original Larkmead Winery) from 1958 to 1992. Its 2015 Blanc de Blancs ($55) is 100% Chardonnay sourced from the Lewis Vineyard in Carneros. It’s bright citrus and apple is complimented with toasty and luscious qualities. The 2016 Brut Rosé ($55) also from the Lewis Vineyard, is an elegant blend of 59% pinot noir and 21% chardonnay with solid structure and succulent red berries accented with minerals and toast.

Established in the Napa Valley in 1969, Cuvaison was an early pioneer of the Carneros region. Benefitting from the cooling effects of San Pablo Bay and sustainable farming practices, its estate bottled Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays have become highly regarded. And now its sparkling wines impress. The 2017 Brut Rosé ($50), a blend of 65% chardonnay and 35% pinot noir has vibrant raspberry and pink grapefruit a nicely balanced rich and luscious character.

Part of the Duckhorn portfolio of prestige wines, Goldeneye is a specialist of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Anderson Valley. Now, they also produce impressive sparklers, like the 2018 Brut Rose ($65) delivering intense cherry and strawberry with pleasant yeasty notes. 

The Bacigalupi family has grown some of the most prized Russian River Valley pinot noir and chardonnay grapes for nearly fifty years. They also produce their own wines like the 2017 “Brillante” Blanc de Noirs ($74), which is equal parts both grapes. It impresses with juicy strawberry, citrus and creamy notes with a wonderful texture. 

Based in the Arroyo Grande area of California’s Central coast, Laetitia has made some of the state’s best value sparkling wines since 1982. Its fresh Brut Rose ($25), made with estate grown pinot noir and chardonnay, serves up pretty red fruits

In Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Argyle, one of Oregon’s top Pinot Noir and Chardonnay producers, also has been its premier sparkling wine maker since its founding in 1987. The 2017 Brut ($35) is majority chardonnay with pinot noir and pinot meunier showing richness with a juicy lemon custard character. The 2016 Argyle Brut Knudsen Vineyard ($50) is special. It delivers intense, tight citrus and stone fruits, with toasty and light spice notes. It is lively and lush texture.

Finally, if your preference is Champagne, I have two special bottles for you from Laurent-Perrier, a prestigious house founded in 1812. Its Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature ($100) is sourced from the finest chardonnay vineyards, (grapes grown in both the Côte des Blancs and the Montagne de Reims). Its luxurious texture is complemented with crisp structure and complexity. Very dry, fresh citrus and apple qualities are balanced with nutty, toasty elements. The Cuvée Rosé ($100), 100% pinot noir, offers wonderful cherry and strawberry with hints of herb and spice. The palate is elegant, yet structured, richness yet delicate.

NOTE: FEATURED IMAGE COURTESY OF DALLATERRA.COM

Many of the holidays of December – Hannukah, Advent, Christmas, Kwanzaa, New Year’s Eve (and maybe others) – have historical, cultural or religious meaning and associated rituals. They all have traditional foods and celebrations … and accompanying wine. This year, for the wine, I am looking to Italy for some of its food friendly and good value wines. 

Known for its delightful fizziness, touch of sweetness, and low alcohol content (about 6% ABV), Moscato is an incredibly versatile crowd pleaser. It is enjoyed as an aperitif, paired with spicy food, and enhances desserts. Piedmont’s Moscato d’Asti is the best. Taste what I mean with the peach and apricot of the 2019 Vietti ($16) and the honeyed 2019 Marchesi di Grésy “La Serra” ($17). Even less expensive, the juicy citrus of the 2020 Centorri Moscato di Pavia ($10) from grapes sourced in the Lombardy region, not far from Asti. 

In the Veneto, the indigenous corvina variety (often combined with small amounts of local grapes rondinella, corvinone and molinara) is used to make Valpolicella, a light, easy drink. Try it chilled. I recently enjoyed these from two benchmark Veneto producers. The 2017 Zenato Classico Superiore ($17) is soft and supple, bright and refreshing. The 2019 Tenuta Sant’ Antonio “Nanfrè” ($15) is a lighter, more vibrant style with lively cherry fruit. 

A small, little known subregion in the Tuscan Maremma, Montecucco is a leader in sustainable viticulture and a good alternative to Chianti. Most grapes (predominantly sangiovese) are certified organic, as with the 2018 Le Pianore “Tiniatus” ($18), which is pleasantly dry and persistent with fresh tannins. 

The most well-known wine produced in Abruzzo, Montepuciano d’Abruzzo is an ideal everyday wine and good value. The montepulciano grape is planted throughout central Italy but is most prominent in Abruzzo. It tends to be robust, with ripe fruit, powerful tannins, and hints of spice, pepper and earth. 

Of the wines in my tasting, I preferred the 2018 Illuminati “Riparosso” ($18) single vineyard for its juicy red fruits, savory notes and elegant structure. The 2018 La Valentina ($15) was fruitful and spicy with a solid backbone. The 2016 Valori “Bio” ($17) nicely displayed its organically grown grapes with earthy freshness. The 2016 Feuduccio Santa Maria d’Orni “Fonte Venna” ($16) offered darker fruit and a softer palate.

Like wines made with zinfandel? Did you know it is a relative of primitivo from Puglia in Italy’s heel? The grape was brought to Southern Italy from Croatia in the 1700s and has thrived in the warm vineyards of Salento ever since. The Masseria Li Veli “Orion” (2019, $15) is exuberant and lightly spicy and one of my favorites. 

If you are looking for a wine splurge for the holidays, California Cabernet Sauvignon is a great place to start. The following recommendations are the best California Cabernet Sauvignon wines I tasted this year. They are exemplary representations of why Napa Cab is internationally sought after. I have listed recommended wines in order of my preference but you really can’t go wrong with any of these.

2018 Cardinale ($325). Established in 1982, Cardinale follows a mission to produce a distinctive Cabernet Sauvignon that expresses the essence of Napa Valley each vintage. Long-time winemaker, Christopher Carpenter sources grapes from top vineyards in many of the sub-appellations in the valley, with an emphasis on mountain-grown sources. Each vineyard brings its own personality and flavor contributions to create a singular manifestation of the vintage. Cardinale epitomizes the craft of blending to create a wine whose whole is greater than the sum of its parts. 

The 2018 melds grapes from seven appellations with Spring Mountain and Howell Mountain forming the core and Diamond Mountain District, Mount Veeder, St. Helena, and Stags Leap District filling out the quilt. With the intensity and age-worthy tannins of mostly mountain-grown cabernet and rich character of lower elevation fruit (including 10% merlot) layered complexity with brilliant black and blue fruit, minerality, and a securing structure are the hallmarks of this masterpiece. It is emblematic of Cardinale as an expression of grace, subtly, and power.

2018 Larkmead “Solari” ($200). The historic Larkmead estate in the Calistoga appellation is one of the oldest family-owned wineries in Napa Valley. Founded in 1895, current proprietors Cam Baker and Kate Solari Baker (whose family has owned the property since 1948) have elevated this legendary valley floor vineyard to a level where cabernet sauvignon grapes, ripen beautifully in the well-drained alluvial, gravelly soils (with clay and loam). 

Winemaker Avery Heelan captures the nuance and complexity of this site that is more typical of a hillside than the valley floor by vinifying small lots according to clonal selection and soil type. The result is an intensely flavored, broad, full 100% cabernet sauvignon with ripe black currant, red berries, savory and herbal notes all pulled together with a solid backbone. 

2018 Cliff Lede “Magic Nights” Rock Block Series ($110). Lede Family Wines was founded in 2002 in the Stags Leap District, an area prized for its volcanic soils from ancient volcanic eruptions and erosion of the nearby Vaca Mountains, mixed with loam and clay sediments from the Napa River. Cliff Lede’s love of music permeates the winery and its wines, particularly the Rock Block Series, special estate vineyard blocks named for Mr. Lede’s favorite songs. 

The name of this blend (92% cabernet sauvignon, 5% petit verdot and 3% merlot) is derived from The Who’s “Magic Bus” (block located in the estate’s esteemed Poetry vineyard) and from The Moody Blues’ “Nights in White Satin” (block located in the Twin Peaks vineyard). Winemaker Christopher Tynan ensures that these sources merge to form a wine of grace and power, structure and luxurious ripeness, with concentrated dark fruit and enticing savory notes. 

2018 Mt. Brave Mount Veeder ($100). Mt. Brave was established in 2007 with the purchase of property that previously was known as Chateau Potelle. Located on the western ridges of the Mayacamas Mountains in the Mt. Veeder appellation, the name is a tribute to the original inhabitants of the area, the Wappo tribe, known as “the brave ones”. 

This wine is 88% cabernet sauvignon, 6.5% cabernet franc, 3% merlot, 1.5% petit verdot and 1% malbec. It delivers vibrant black, blue and red fruits, and herbal, floral and spice notes with a sense of mineral. Firm yet refined tannins balance bold fruit and a dense structure balances an oaky lushness.

2018 Nickel & Nickel “State Ranch” ($125). Established by the partners of Far Niente, Nickel & Nickel is based on a philosophy of producing 100% varietal, single-vineyard wines that best express the distinct personality of each vineyard. 

State Ranch is located northeast of the town of Yountville. Winemaker Joe Harden has coaxed its attributes – rocky, clay loam soil and excellent drainage – into a wine with typically ample fruit and velvety tannins. It is a powerful, plush wine teeming with [dark berries, cassis, chocolate, and herbal and spice accents all delivered in a firm yet velvety frame. 

2018 Aperture Cellars Alexander Valley ($70). Founded in 2009 in Sonoma County by winemaker Jesse Katz with his father, world famous photographer Andy Katz, Aperture’s main focus is on Bordeaux varieties. From the “Soil Series”, this wine reflects Mr. Katz’s winemaking approach to coax the energy of the soil as translated into the grapes to shine through his wines.

This wine is a blend of 86% cabernet sauvignon, 7% malbec, 5% merlot and 2% petit Verdot. It is refined and rich with concentrated currant and blackberry, hints of herbs and tobacco, and a glossy texture, all showing power and freshness.

2018 Priest Ranch “Snake Oil” ($110). The original Priest Ranch estate was established in 1869 by James Joshua Priest, a Gold Rush prospector. In 2004, three families purchased this historic property, as part of the larger Somerston Estate. Located high on the eastern hill of the Vaca Mountains near Lake Hennessey east of Pritchard Hill above St. Helena, the estate’s varied range in elevations, exposures, soils, and microclimates allow Winemaker and Co-founder Craig Becker to create wines that showcase distinct expressions of each terroir. 

With Snake Oil, Mr. Becker skillfully blended multiple blocks of old vine cabernet sauvignon to shape a full-bodied, unctuous wine of dark fruits, accentuated with touches of earth, and tobacco. 

2018 Spottswoode Lyndenhurst ($85). Spottswoode Winery, another family-owned producer five miles southeast of Larkmead is widely regarded as among Napa Valley’s elite. The estate was founded in the 1880s but the winery was established by Mary Weber Novak in 1982. Spottswoode is a leader in sustainable farming and business practices. Now Mary’s daughters, Beth and Lindy, and Aron Weinkauf, winemaker and vineyard manager, steward this special property.

While Spottswoode’s Estate Cabernet Sauvignon typically is among the valley’s best each vintage, Lyndenhurst is the estate’s second wine, with about half of its fruit from the estate vineyard and the rest from trusted growers. It’s bold mixed berry fruit, herbal complexities, fine energy and lush texture is impressive in its own right. And at less than half the price of the first wine, it is a fine value.

2018 Faust “The Pact” ($125). This wine is 100% cabernet sauvignon from Faust’s estate vineyard in Coombsville, Napa Valley’s furthest south appellation. Its proximity to San Pablo Bay (grapes benefit from a long, cool growing season) and the Vaca Mountains (soils laced with ancient volcanic ash and silt) create the conditions for excellence. 

Add careful selection from the premier blocks of the vineyard by Winemaker David Jelinek and you get The Pact. The 2018 opens with fresh aromas of black cherries, black currants and blueberries with minerals, tobacco, and cocoa notes riding on a silky yet bright frame. 

2017 Sullivan “Coeur de Vigne” ($90). While this property in the heart of the Napa Valley has had a storied history, it notably became the highly respected Sullivan Rutherford Estate in the 1970’s, with vineyard planting guided by the legendary Rutherford winemaker Andre Tchelistcheff. A family partnership led by Juan Pablo Torres Padilla acquired the property in 2018 and set about elevating the vineyards and the wines. 

Winemaker Jeff Cole succeeds at that goal with 75% cabernet sauvignon, 22% merlot and 3% malbec. The wine delivers concentrated cherry, plum and cassis, with earth and tobacco notes and a pleasantly dense texture. 

While Chianti is the best-known Tuscan wine in the U.S., a little attention reveals a wide variety of other fine wines from Italy’s best-known wine region. In central Tuscany where the Chianti zone extends roughly from Florence south to Siena, there are other highly regarded denominations north of Florence and south of Siena. And then there is the “new frontier” of the Maremma in the western part of the region along the Tyrrhenian Sea coast. Let’s visit a few.

Most of the wines, though, still use sangiovese as their foundation. One of Italy’s many indigenous grape varieties, sangiovese truly shines in Tusany. Typically, quality wines made with sangiovese exhibit deep, bright cherry aromas and flavors with firm, dry structure, and earthy qualities. Generally, it is blended with other native varieties, though increasingly Bordeaux grapes are part of the mix.

This is the case in so-called “Super Tuscans”, which actually originated in Chianti in the 1970’s but are most associated with the Maremma along the Tyrrhenian Sea., especially the Bolgheri subzone. However, cabernet sauvignon has been cultivated in Carmignano (about a dozen miles northwest of Florence) since the 1700s. In order to qualify as a Carmignano wine today, the blend must include at least 50 percent sangiovese and 10-20% cabernet sauvignon or cabernet franc. Small amounts of canaiolo nero, and the white grapes trebbiano and malvasia, are permitted. 

About the same distance east of Florence, within the Chianti Rufina zone lies the tiny Pomino denomination (actually within the Chianti Rufina subzone). Recognized for its quality as far back as the 1700’s by the Medici, its high elevation vineyards typically produce brighter toned fruit than elsewhere in Tuscany. Its Rosso (red) wines require a minimum 50% Sangiovese and can contain up to 50% Merlot or Pinot Nero, and a maximum of 25% other red grapes.

The commune of Montepulciano southeast of Siena is home to Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Its name reflects its popularity with royalty over the centuries. The wines must contain at least 70 percent sangiovese (known locally as prugnolo gentile) blended with other local varieties like canaiolo nero, and mammolo. 

West of Montepulciano, the coastal vineyards of the southern Maremma are drawing recent attention for Morellino di Scansano. Named for the village of Scansano and the local name for sangiovese (the wine must contain at least 85%), growing conditions here favor supple, inviting wines and fine sangiovese values. 

Finally, the most famous part of the Maremma is up the coast in the Bolgheri zone. Also just a few miles from the coast, Bolgheri is home to such famous Super Tuscans as Tenuta San Guido’s Sassicaia, Tenuta Guado al Tasso, and Ornellaia. 

And now the wines:

CARMIGNANO

Tenuta di Capezzana, the exemplary producer of Carmignano, is located 12 miles northwest of Florence in the Carmignano subzone. Its vines are farmed organically and, all of these wines are fermented with native indigenous yeasts. Its history dates to the 14th century and was one of the first designated wine regions in the world (by the Medici) in 1716. 

• 2018 Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC ($18) Capezzana’s entry-level bottling, a younger version of Carmignano named after the historic Medici property known as “Barco Reale” – meaning Royal Property – which was established in 1626. 75% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Canaiolo, and 5% Cabernet Franc 
• 2016 Villa di Capezzana Carmignano DOC ($30) With vintages dating back to 1925 in their cellar, Villa di Capezzana is the flagship wine of the Tenuta di Capezzana estate and represents the best of Carmignano as a region. 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon 
• 2013 Ghiaie della Furba Toscana IGT ($51) Made only in the best vintages, this Bordeaux-style blend was first created in 1979 from vineyards planted along the pebble (Ghiaie) rich soils of the Furba stream planted with clippings from Château Lafite. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Syrah, and 25% Merlot 
• 2015 Trefiano Carmignano Riserva DOCG ($59) Made in only the best vintages, the grapes come from five hectares of vineyards that surround the historic Villa di Trefiano located in the Carmignano DOCG. 80% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Canaiolo 

POMINO ROSSO

2016 Fattoria Selvapiana “Villa Petrognano” ($21) Fattoria Selvapiana, the esteemed Chianti Rufina estate that farms its vineyards organically, contracts to produce wine from vineyards at Villa Petrognano, also are farmed organically. 60% sangiovese, 20% merlot and 20% cabernet sauvignon combine for a lithe, smoky wine balanced with lively red fruits. 

VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO 

Relatively young by Tuscan standards (sixty years), Poliziano has established itself as a leader in Montepulciano. Farming its vineyards organically, its wines allow consumers to experience the range of Montepulciano terroir. 

• 2019 Rosso di Montepulciano ($17) Nice entry-level wine meant for earlier consumption and everyday drinking, this is made up of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot and is aged almost entirely in stainless-steel tanks to preserve the freshness and vivacity of the wine.  
• 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano ($30) offers bright fruit, earthy, toasty notes and polished tannins. From younger vines and with 20% merlot, it’s softer, yet sports a juicy and fresh palate.
• 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano “Asinone” ($63) A limited production wine (95% – 100% sangiovese, depending on the vintage), from Poliziano’s best vineyard, it is rich, deep, succulent, vibrant and concentrated fruit; firmly structured with vanilla, spice, leather, tobacco, and herbal notes. 

MORELLINO DI SCANSANO 

Considered by some as the new frontier of Maremma, many established Tuscan producers are founding outposts in this southwest corner of Tuscany. Such as Poliziano, which began planting vineyards here about twenty years ago. 

2018 Lohsa Morellino di Scansano ($16) from owners of Poliziano; farmed organically; 85% morellino enhanced with 15% of the local grape ciliegiolo, its ripe fruit is lightly herbaceous with forest notes, firm yet lush. Fine value. owned by Poliziano; farmed organically;

BOLGHERI

2019 Le Volte dell’Ornellaia ($34) The attractively priced entry level wine of the super expensive Super Tuscan Ornellaia, Le Volte is a juicy blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese. It expresses lively fruit of plum and red berries with suggesttions of flowers and herbs. It is nicley balanced and well filled drinking with friendly tannins for an inviting mouthfeel.  

2107 Castello del Terriccio “Tassinaia” ($34) About fifteen miles north of Ornellaia, this lesser known but outstanding producer of Super Tuscan wines, planted its vineyards four miles from the coast in the 1980s (though the property has a thousand-year-long history) with cuttings from some of France’s top estates. Castello del Terriccio’s flagship, Lupicaia, comes at over $100 a bottle. Tassinaia – a blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot in almost equal amounts – is more accessible. It offers inviting red fruits, earthy notes, and a firm but fresh texture.

In the heart of California’s Central Coast – halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, lies the Paso Robles Wine Country, a land of rich heritage, rural beauty, and world-class wines. While Napa and Sonoma remain the most popular destinations, with more than 200 wineries, a quaint but lively hub in the town of Paso Robles, and numerous artisans throughout the region, Paso Robles should be on your radar for your next wine country visit.

Similarly, while most consumers think of Napa and Sonoma when they think of California Cabernet Sauvignon, they also should think of Paso Robles. Wineries including Adelaida, Booker, Daou, L’Aventure, and Linne Calodo consistently produce world class cabernet-based wines. There also are fine values, notably from J. Johr and Robert Hall.

Paso also has emerged as a leader in producing wines from Rhône varieties. Especially with acclaimed wineries including Tablas Creek, Saxum, Austin Hope and Vina Robles. In my tasting, the 2019 Absolution Grenache Colburn Vineyard ($41) showed concentrated red fruits complimented with herbal notes and minerality. The 2020 Paix Sur Terre “Days Between” Glenrose Vineyard ($45), 100% counoise, reflected the grape’s typically elegant and vibrant red berry and spices.

From creative blends to pioneering Rhône varieties to frizzante to sparkling wines, Paso cultivates an adventurous spirit. A 2017 Anarchy “Superfly” ($55) blends zinfandel (origin Croatia), cabernet sauvignon (origin southwestern France) and petite sirah (origin Rhône) for a bold, rich, juicy wine. A 2020 Groundwork Picpoul Carbonique ($18) was made using carbonic maceration (a common practice with Beaujolais) and extended skin contact (uncommon practice with white grapes often referred to as “orange wine”, resulting in a white wine that looks and drinks more like a rose). It was fruity and herbal with saline undertones and a touch of fizz. The 2020 Peachy Canyon Pét-Nat ($18), short for Pétillant Naturel, or naturally sparkling, this is a style of bubbly (fermented in the bottle to retain its fizz) that has been practiced for centuries but for some reason has recently become trendy. Made with grenache, it presents the bright red berries and fruity nature of the grape. 

Paso also offers fine values. Here, J. Lohr is a reliable source with a wide range of well-priced wines. I had a really good value in my tasting, the 2016 True Myth ($24). It is produced by the Niven Family Wine Estates based in Edna Valley in southern San Louis Obispo County. But the family recognized the wisdom of sourcing the grapes from Paso Robles. And the wine succeeds with rich blackberry, herbal notes, and smoky, dusty oak, finishing with elegant tannins. I also enjoyed the 2019 Broadside Margarita Vineyard Merlot ($18) in my tasting. It balances soft tannins with bright acidity and sweet berry fruit. And it is SIP (Sustainability in Practice) Certified, indicating the use of third-party approved sustainable farming and business practices. considering “people, planet and profit.” 

Paso Robles is a favorite destination for more than just the wines. It is one of my favorite wine regions to visit. In addition to world class restaurants, such as il Cortile and Thomas Hill Organics, there is an abundance of artisan producers worth sampling. For example, Bristols Cider House in nearby Atascadero. Their Black Bart sparkling cider in my tasting is 100% local apples, dry hopped with second fermentation in bottle. The Firestone Walker Brewery is one of the nation’s most awarded breweries. I found the Flyjack IPA, a hazy India Pale Ale, crisp, with only 96 calories impressive. And you can explore craft olive oil producers, like the Kiler Ridge and Pasolivo, to sample extra virgin olive oils and olive oil products. 

When it comes to consumer interest in white wines, all white grapes take a back seat to chardonnay; but sauvignon blanc enjoys an increasingly strong second place. California Sauvignon Blanc is a good barometer, especially since there arguably is more good California Sauvignon Blanc on the market than ever.

The grape has a noble heritage as a parent (with cabernet franc) of cabernet sauvignon. It is responsible for the Loire Valley wines of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé and, with semillon, the white Bordeaux of Graves and Sauternes. It also has found hospitable surroundings in New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and Chile. 

Sauvignon Blanc is one of the world’s most widely planted grape varieties. It is responsible for famed French wines of Bordeaux and the Loire Valley and has found hospitable surroundings in Italy, New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and Chile. 

Its flavor profile ranges from assertively aromatic and refreshing with brisk green citrus (lime, gooseberry) but also other citrus, especially grapefruit, and a distinctive herbaceousness (sometimes fresh cut hay or grass) to melon, tropical, nectarine, peach or stone fruits with anise or oak spice. 

Most of the wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel to emphasize fresh, varietal characteristics, while some use small amounts of mostly neutral oak to round out flavors and texture. 

In recent years, wineries have employed a wider variety of vessels, including concrete tanks, stainless steel barrels, and amphorae, for fermentation and aging, along with practices such as lees stirring to build complexity and texture.

There were two excellent everyday values from the Dry Creek Vineyard in my tasting. Both are focused on varietal character and the grape’s trademark racy acidity. The Sonoma County “Fumé” ($16) is aromatic, juicy with spicy herbs; the Dry Creek Valley ($20) emphasizes citrus, melon and licorice.  

As consumer friendly as these wines are, I found more complexity and flavor interest as prices escalated. Also, I was surprised when I reviewed my tasting notes that all but one of these is from Napa. They are listed in order of preference but all are recommended: 

• 2017 Ashes and Diamonds Blanc No. 3 ($45) blend of equal parts semillon and sauvignon blanc; lush mouthfeel, bright structure, only 11.9% alcohol
• 2020 Spottswoode ($42) Sonoma and Napa fruit; intense citrus, herbal spice, textural richness, balanced with vibrant structure 
• 2020 Gamble ($35) from an estate vineyard near Yountville, brisk, citrus, licorice, spice 
• 2019 Cliff Lede Napa Valley ($28) elegant, tangy citrus, pear, herbal 
• 2020 Duckhorn ($32) aromatic, focused citrus, tropical, herbal, elegant
• 2019 Acumen Mountainside ($30) Napa Valley winery but Dry Creek Valley grapes; bright citrus, succulent 
• 2019 Chalk Hill Estate ($33) from the Chalk Hill area in eastern Sonoma; rich honeydew, lemon, and tropical fruit 
• 2019 The Paring Santa Ynez Valley ($25) vibrant, gooseberry, lemongrass 
• 2020 Ladera Ryan’s Vineyard ($36) from Oak Knoll District of southern Napa, fresh hay citrus, melon, spicy
• 2020 Alma de Cattleya ($22) Sonoma fruit; spicy herb, juicy melon, citrus
• 2020 Cuvaison Méthode Béton ($40) deep citrus, graceful creaminess, refreshing melon, juicy lemon, persistent 
• 2019 Cuvaison En Cigare ($40) fermented and aged in cigar-shaped oak barrels; taut citrus, lemongrass, rich mouthfeel 

During summer’s warm months, cold white wines provide welcome tonic. Add the refreshing bubbles of sparkling wine and you have the ideal summer drink.

Champagne is the standard for sparkling wine. This is primarily because of the “Champagne Method” (méthode champenoise) of double fermentation in the bottle to create the bubbles. But Champagne is expensive. Happily, there are more affordable Champagne method (also described as the “classic method” or “traditional method”) wines that offer comparable quality. 

In France, there is crémant, bubbly from other regions. I particularly like Crémant d’Alsace. A region better known for amazing rieslings and gewurztraminers, its crémant more often uses the classic Champagne varieties – pinot noir and chardonnay – though pinot blanc, pinot gris and riesling may make it into some blends. 

But it is in the north of Italy where you can find truly exceptional Champagne alternatives. Italy uses the term “metodo classico”. For a country with countless indigenous varieties, these wines typically made with only chardonnay (occasionally pinot bianco) and pinot nero (pinot noir). Here I offer examples of Franciacorta (in Lombardia south of Lake Iseo about 60 miles east of Milano) and Trentodoc (in Trentino north of Lake Garda and about 140 miles northeast of Milano). Another fine source, Alta Langa (from Piemonte), was not represented in this tasting. 

Some would argue that Franciacorta is the best metodo classico. The zone benefits from warm days that ripen the fruit with cool nights that maintain freshness, thanks to the moderating influence of the lake. Mineral rich soils impart a zesty, forward character to the fruit resulting in a notable elegance.  

Others would argue the best Italian bubbly is Trentodoc located in the adjacent Trentino-Alto Adige appellation to the northeast, also devoted exclusively to metodo classico and the same Champagne grapes. With its high altitude vineyards near the Dolomite mountains, its higher elevations, diurnal temperature variations, and limestone soils typically yield crisp, bracing yet graceful wines.

Prosecco, that foamy, fruity northeastern Italian wine from the native glera grape, has vaulted in popularity in recent years. Produced in the area north of Venice around the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, it is the traditional base for the famous Bellini. 

In Spain, sparkling wine is all about Cava, another go-to for wallet-friendly bubbles. It is typically produced by the traditional method with the indigenous grapes macabeo, xarel-lo, and parellada in the Penedès region not far from Barcelona.

Crémant d’Alsace 

• Domaine Christophe Mittnacht “Terres d’étoiles” Extra Brut ($25) certified biodynamic, majority pinot auxerrois, with pinot blanc, riesling, pinot gris, pinot noir; elegant, intriguing saline and dry sherry notes
• Camille Braun Brut ($28) organically and biodynamically farmed, mostly pinot blanc with auxerrois; salty pear and grapefruit
• Jean-Baptiste Adam Brut Rosé ($25) 100 percent pinot noir, buttery brioche, strawberry, apple, brisk cherry, citrus 

Franciacorta

• 2015 Ca’ del Bosco Vintage Collection Dosage Zero ($80) bone-dry, impressively rich yet elegant and fresh, enticing baked bread, tangy yet creamy, ripe pear, apple and melon, mineral finish
• Villa Crespia “Brolese” Extra Brut Rosé ($40) from the Brolese sub-area; toasty, crisp citrus and cherry, elegant 
• Lo Sparviere “Satèn” ($25) Satèn is a style of lower pressure leading to softer bubbles; 100 percent chardonnay, fresh yet smoothly silky 

Trentodoc

• Casata Monfort Rosé ($40) vibrant apple, grapefruit, strawberry, toasty, creamy 
• 2015 Rotari Platinum Label Brut ($20) all chardonnay, lemon, grapefruit, fennel 

Prosecco 

• Zardetto Brut ($17) sourced from various vineyards northeast of the town of Conegliano; fruity citrus, apricot and tropical fruit accented with flowery notes

Cava

• Segura Viudas’ Reserva Heredad ($30) the producer’s crown jewel (thus a little more expensive than most Cava), blended from macabeo and parellada, a fine example of what extra attention like aging on the lees – in this case, added richness, but with elegance – can accomplish