The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

My last post reviewed West Coast Cabernet Sauvignon; this one focuses on the other traditional Bordeaux blending grapes.

Merlot was the first to make an appearance as a varietal wine in the consumer market, and it succeeded wildly on its own merits as a separate and distinct red wine. The others, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, have struggled for recognition. 

Merlot as a varietal wine has endured a roller coaster reputation with producers and consumers over the last thirty years. Through all that it has remained the second most important grape in Bordeaux and still quite popular in the U.S. Particularly in California and Washington, there are many fine, world class examples worth your attention.

When done right, the grape yields a rich wine with opulent black fruits and a luscious texture. In addition to generous fruit and an approachable style, the best versions reveal solid body and good concentration. Like cabernet sauvignon, merlot is capable of developing layers of complexity, as well as structure, depth and an ability to improve with age. The major difference is that Merlot wines tend to present a softer texture and rounder mouthfeel.

From Washington’s Columbia Valley, the 2017 Long Shadows “Pedestal” ($65) is a really fine example. Michel Rolland, Pomerol vintner and consultant to many of the world’s top wineries, provided the vision for this limited production Merlot. The grapes are primarily from the Wahluke Slope, with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot to fill it out. This is a wine of opulence and elegance, balance and complexity.  it offers concentrated blackberry and cassis are supplemented with of notes of pencil lead oak, tobacco, chocolate, and earth tones.

Cabernet franc is best known for its performances as a supporting actor to lead actor cabernet sauvignon (and occasionally merlot) in Bordeaux and Bordeaux-style wines. However, it has played a notable leading role in the Loire Valley as a lighter, fruitier version. Now, more winemakers, especially in California, have decided it can merit a starring role. In France it generally is a lighter, more refined, mildly herbal relation of Cabernet Sauvignon. In California it tends to be larger scaled and bolder, but capable of refinement even while displaying ample tannins and peppery notes.

I have consistently enjoyed Chappellet’s Napa Valley bottling. The newest release (2017, $85) is an impressive wine. Grown on the high-mountain slopes of Pritchard Hill, it is supplemented with 25 percent cabernet sauvignon, malbec, and petit Verdot. It delivers prominent red and black berries scents with a whiff of oak, pencil lead, herbs and baking spice riding on a firm, structured frame and fresh finish.

Petit Verdot is the rarest of the five traditional Bordeaux varieties. It is relied upon to provide color and tannic structure to the cuvee. It also likely is the rarest of Bordeaux varietal wines. But it can produce rather rich wines on its own. 

The 2016 Herrera “Valeria” Petit Verdot ($95), from Napa Valley’s Mi Sueño, is sourced from the Valeria Block (named for owner Rolando Herrera’s youngest daughter) of the winery’s Linda Vista Vineyard in Napa’s Oak Knoll District. The focus here is on the variety’s natural bold structure and juicy tannic extract. The 100 percent varietal wine is aged in 100% new French oak barrels. This has resulted in a wine of rich, complex character with ripe dark berries, toasty oak, hints of cinnamon and cocoa. 

Malbec definitely has been experiencing a “moment” lately (actually ten plus years). Argentina’s amazing success with this grape in recent years is one of THE stories of wine. While there are more single variety releases being made these days outside of Argentina, its traditional role as a component in Bordeaux-style blends likely will remain unchanged.

And they generally are very good values. Like the 2018 Septima “Obra” ($22). Septima was established by Raventós Codorníu, the Spanish sparkling wine company with a 470-year viticultural history, in 1999, eight years after Artesa in the Carneros region of the Napa Valley in 1991. Located in Agrelo, a valley in the Luján de Cuyo department of Mendoza, a high-altitude desert at the foothills of the Andes. This distinctive terroir has yielded a wine of dark berries and plum are accented with baking spice and a touch of earth. Its supple tannins are fresh and firm.

Winemakers often talk of terroir; they also say, “wine is made in the vineyard”. They talk about terroir and vineyard expression. But that expression ultimately depends on decisions made by the winemaker in the cellar. Still, if they aren’t presented with quality grapes, winemakers can’t make truly distinctive wines. 

While terroir encompasses the totality of the climate influences (weather, temperature, humidity, altitude, wind, precipitation, exposure, terrain), soil, as the medium in which grapes grow, reflects the influence of all those elements while supplying its own – the components of the dirt. 

Consider Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. While there is a generally recognized “Napa style” – emphasizing pronounced fruit, lavish oak, richness, concentration, and firm body but supple texture – there are different expressions attributable to Napa’s different appellations. 

Generally, the Napa Valley appellation initially can be understood by distinguishing between the valley floor and the hills and mountains. Those mountains are the Vaca to the east and the Mayacamas to the west. Then we can differentiate between the sixteen official “sub-appellations” that recognize distinct, localized character. Here I cover eight of them moving from north to south with recommended wines.

Generally, though, we can start by distinguishing between vineyards on the valley floor and vineyards in the hills and mountains. Valley floor vineyards are mostly sediments washed from the mountains, producing fertile, nutrient rich soils. Valley floor wines tend to upfront fruit with good structure but a more broad, lush mouthfeel and graceful tannins. More approachable upon release, they still age quite well. 

Calistoga, at the northern end of the valley, is the warmest in the valley. Its mostly volcanic soils yield sturdy Cabernets. The Duckhorn “Three Palms Vineyard” (2016, $100), from a vineyard more famous for its Merlot and its spare loam and volcanic soils, is large scaled, deeply flavored, powerful, and complex. 

St. Helena, a few miles south of Calistoga, is mostly more fertile volcanic soils (and riper, more graceful wines) in the north and east and less fertile sedimentary soils (and powerful, earthy wines) in the south and west. J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyard (2016, $60), located on the east side along Silverado Trail, with its well-drained, gravelly, sandy loam soil, has yielded a fairly concentrated wine of dark berries with noticeable oak, and notes of mocha, and tobacco, with a sleek palate. 

Rutherford, continuing south, has mostly well-drained loam and alluvial soils. The western side is fairly fertile, largely sedimentary, gravelly and sandy, while the eastern side is more volcanic and more fertile. In general, the wines are rich and supple with fine grained tannins. The 2016 Duckhorn ($100) offers intense fruit, dusty tannins, earthy notes and a flinty character. 

Coombsville, located east of the city of Napa in the south valley, is mostly rocky volcanic and alluvial deposits from the Vaca Mountains. The wines are well structured with rich earth notes. The 2017 Mi Sueño “Mama Ester” ($95), from estate vineyards, offers bold dark fruits, with mocha and a tight, structured palate that needs time to develop.

For hillside and especially mountainside vineyards, which usually lie above the fog line, the higher altitudes generally mean evening temperatures are warmer and daytime temperatures are much cooler. Thinner soils are less fertile, rocky, and dry, stressing the vines to find water. This results in wines typically firmly structured and focused with intense fruit and powerful, sometimes unruly tannins ripe for resolution with aging. Some are more rustic than polished and many reveal minerality and a savory earthiness. 

Howell Mountain, a smallish area located in the northern Vaca range above St Helena, its rocky volcanic ash and gravelly clay soils are thin and nutrient poor. This generally produces large-scaled wines with wild fruit character, tobacco, and the tannic structure to age many years. The 2016 Duckhorn ($100), given an extra year of bottle age than other Duckhorn Cabs, balances power and structure with poise and grace. 

Atlas Peak, on the southern Vaca range in the eastern hills and mountains of Napa above the Stags Leap District, is mostly volcanic and basalt soils making for wines of bright red fruits, earth tones, density and firm tannins. I had four fine examples in my tasting: 

• 2017 Chappellet “Signature” ($70) made from top vineyards on Atlas Peak, including Chappellet’s own Pritchard Hill Estate, is concentrated, delightfully spirited and earthy. 

• 2016 Acumen PEAK ($115) combines fruit from the organically farmed Edcora and Attelas estate vineyards; concentrated lively black currant, full-bodied, energetic, mint and spice, firm in the mouth, gravelly tannins.

• 2016 Acumen PEAK Edcora Vineyard ($145), a selection of the finest blocks and barrels dense, it reveals black fruit, full-bodied, velvety tannins, enticing freshness, with herbal and earthy notes. 

• 2018 Priest Ranch ($50) from blocks on their Somerston Estate, fresh, juicy dark berries and cassis, tobacco, eucalyptus, fairly full, with a fine texture. 

Spring Mountain is situated in the upper middle of the Mayacamus Mountains, between the mostly volcanic soils of Diamond Mountain to the north and the mostly sedimentary soils on Mount Veeder to the south. Which explains why the district contains both volcanic and sandstone soils on its many rocky, infertile slopes. This often makes for rounder wines with softer tannins than other mountain districts but more intensely flavored fruit. 

Founded on the top of Spring Mountain in 1971, the steep, dry-farmed vineyards of Smith-Madrone are planted in mostly stony clay loam that is volcanic-based and rocky. The 2016 Estate Bottled ($58) is expectedly sleek in texture but still presenting a strong tannic structure. Dark berries and red currant lead into herbal and savory elements, including hints of tobacco. 

Mount Veeder, at the southern end of the Mayacamas Mountains on the west side of the valley, is mostly shallow sedimentary soils of sandstone or sandy loam from a former seabed. Hallmarks include dark fruits, earth and bright structure. The 2017 Mi Sueño “Lynn’s Vineyard” ($95), from an estate owned vineyard with good exposure, shows jammy character with nicely incorporated oak, tobacco and a sleek texture. 

Many wines simply carry a Napa Valley designation, which usually means their grapes come from several sub-appellations. And one could argue such wines are more fully representative of the region.

2017 Spottswoode “Lyndenhurst” ($85) with about half of its fruit from the Spottswoode estate and the rest from trusted growers in Oak Knoll, St. Helena and Atlas Peak, it’s bold fruit, herbal complexities and lush texture will impress any Cabernet fan. 

2017 Bella Union ($80) from Bella Union Vineyard in Rutherford and select sources throughout the valley, marked by red fruits, a touch of spice and well-mannered tannins.

2017 Duckhorn ($78) blended from estate vineyards and selected growers in Coombesville, Mt. Veeder and Oak Knoll. But the Napa Valley bottling signifies the winery’s reputation for large scaled, deeply flavored wines. It is bright, supple, balanced, immediately appealing and polished, yet firmly structured. 

2017 Mi Sueño ($75) a classic multi-vineyard Napa Cab, full and rich and enjoyable now but with the ability to age. 

2016 Robert Mondavi ($34) The famous Mondavi winery sources fruit primarily from Oakville (well-drained alluvial bench) and Stag’s Leap District (Wappo Vineyard) along with grapes from various sources. 

While the Napa Valley has become established as one of the planet’s premier sources of Cabernet Sauvignon wine (second only to Bordeaux) There are other notable and important regions for Cabernet along the West Coast. This post extends my consideration to three of those appellations.

Sonoma County is an incredibly diverse wine growing region, with eighteen appellations. Each has a unique climate and geography. The Pacific Ocean, the Russian River and the Mayacamas Mountains are major influences reflected in the soils of the different appellations. According to Sonoma County Winegrowers, the region’s dramatic geological history (an inland sea and tectonic upheavals) has resulted in 11 major formation types, 31 different soil series within those types, and innumerable permutations within each series. But the basic soil structure is defined by volcanic ash and lava. 

Here I recommend wines from two pioneers of Sonoma wine and two of Sonoma’s best-known Cabernet appellations. 

The Alexander Valley is distinguished by rocky, less fertile and well drained soils on the mountain tops, including ancient seafloor and younger volcanic soils and richer sedimentary deposits (gravelly, sandy loam) in the benchlands. 

Rodney Strong, established in 1959, is one of the modern day pioneers of Sonoma County wine. Today the winery produces a wide range of wines from throughout Sonoma but Cabernet is its signature wine. The 2016 “Brothers” ($75), comes from a hillside vineyard east of Cloverdale in northern Alexander Valley. The vineyard’s loam underlain by sandstone, shale, and ancient greenstone is reflected the wine’s deep, dark fruit and boldly ripe flavors. It’s fresh tannins balance its richness. The 2016 Reserve ($45) uses Alexander Valley grapes and fruit from Rodney Strong’s newly developed Cooley Ranch (steep terrain and volcanic soils located on the edge of Rockpile Appellation). These origins allow for solid dark fruit and structure but supple tannins, with herbal touches. 

Sebastiani, established in 1904, was a much earlier pioneer of Sonoma winemaking, though it has been under new owners since 2008. Its 2017 Old Vine ($65), showing juicy dark berries and spicy notes, comes mostly from the Eco Tereno Vineyard located along the Russian River in northern Alexander Valley which was planted in 1973. The remainder is from the Cherryblock Vineyard in Sonoma Valley. The 2017 Gravel Bed ($65), from a selection of well-drained and, yes, gravelly sites, reveals sweet blackberry, enticing anise and lush tannins. 

The Sonoma Valley appellation is framed by the Mayacamas Mountains to the east and the Sonoma Mountains to the west. The soils in the flatter, valley areas tend to be quite fertile loam, while the soils at higher elevations are meager, rocky and well-drained. The 2017 Cherryblock ($125) is sourced from a special Old Vines block of Sebastiani’s estate in Sonoma Valley. Its ripe, juicy red fruit is presented in a firm but finely honed palate and complimented with savory notes.

Paso Robles in California’s Central Coast is known for some extreme growing conditions but especially well-drained, gravelly and chalky limestone soils in its western reaches (near the ocean) and more variable soils, including alluvial, calcareous, loam, sandy loam, and bedrock residuals on its eastern side (inland). 

J. Lohr is a pioneer of the region, having produced its first wines in the 1980s. Its 2018 Hilltop ($35), primarily sourced from the gravel, limestone and shale soils of the Shotwell Vineyard in Paso’s El Pomar district, offers dark fruit, lush oak, silky tannins and lightly spicy finish present a fine Cabernet value. J. Lohr’s most expensive wine, the 2017 Signature ($100) is sourced mostly from the nearby Beck Vineyard’s granite and limestone soils. Its bright, concentrated dark fruits, hints of herbs and mocha, and strong tannins bode well for the future.

Over the last forty and especially the last twenty years, Washington State has emerged as a world class wine grower and Cabernet Sauvignon has led the way. 

Established in 1978, Quilceda Creek has become one of the state’s premier wineries. Its wines are an expression of four vineyards from within the large Columbia Valley appellation: Champoux and Palengat (sandy loam), and Mach One (shallow loess with underlying basalt and river rock) in the Horse Heaven Hills sub-appellation and Galitzine (deep sandy and silty loam) in the Red Mountain sub-appellation. The 2017 CVR Columbia Valley Red Wine ($70) combines all four vineyard sites and represents a fine value, considering their other wines cost around $200. It’s precise blackberry and cherry fruit is accented with nuances of cocoa and spice; it’s spirited and well-structured but luscious. 

Red Mountain, Washington’s smallest sub-appellation, with mostly sandy loam, gravel and calcium rich soils, is the home to some of Washington’s most sought after vineyards.  

It also is the source of fruit for the wines of Canvasback, a member of the Duckhorn portfolio of wineries. The 2017 Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon ($42) is crafted from several area vineyards. It offers fine red fruits with hints of minerals and tobacco and a firmly structured frame. The superb 2017 Grand Passage ($84) is a block and barrel selection from the Quintessence Vineyard. Its thin, rocky, exposed sandy loam soils have are expressed in succulent red and black fruits, highlights of spice, oak, and baking spices, balanced with animated, fine tannins. 

Have you experienced it? The cold weather of winter driving cravings for hearty foods and hearty red wines? I have; and for me, one of the first wines I think of is a dessert wine – Port from Portugal. And for our purposes here that means Tawny Port.

Tawny ports are distinguished from Ruby Ports by longer aging in oak barrels. This mellows the wines color from deep red to or tawny. It also balances the intense fruit of the base wine with wood character. As a result, the wines retain berry freshness even as they develop enticing qualities like almond and fig. 

Two of the best are Dow’s and Graham’s. Owned by the Symingtons, a family with a nearly 140 year history in the Port industry, Graham’s was established in 1820 and the Dow’s we know today grew out of a merger of Port firms in 1877. The family became sole owners of Dow’s in 1961 and acquired Graham’s in 1970.

With a 10 Year Old Tawny you can discern these elements of age and a certain finesse. Dow’s ($39) offers bright flavors combined with intense fruit and fullness. Graham’s ($39) shows complex nutty aromas combined with hints of honey and figs followed by a luscious finish. 

With a 20 Year Old Tawny you experience the freshness, elegance and pure fruit with intense complexity. Graham’s ($65) suggests mature fruits with a tangy element and luscious texture. Dow’s ($67) has an elegant balance of deep but mellow fruit and palate richness. 

At the table Portugal’s reds also are a fine choice and they are fine everyday values. From Herdade do Esporão, a leading producer in southern Portugal’s Alentejo region, the 2019 Monte Velho ($10) is a blend including three indigenous varieties (Aragonez (aka Tempranillo), Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional, and Syrah. 

Even more impressive is another Symington wine, the 2017 Prats + Symington Prazo de Roriz ($17). From a 20 year partnership between Symington Family Estates and Bruno Prats, the former winemaker and owner of Chateau Cos D’Estournel. The grapes – one third touriga franca and one fourth touriga nacional plus small portions of tinta roriz, tinta barroca and tinto cão – are sourced from the family’s Quinta de Roriz estate in the Douro Valley. Enjoy its fine concentration and balance. 

During these colder months, medium to fuller bodied reds like Cabernet Sauvignons And syrahs tend to be enjoyed more with hearty meat dishes than other varietals. I recently tasted a fine California Syrah, the 2017 Mi Sueño Napa Valley ($55). From a husband and wife team with a resume that includes making wine for and supplying grapes to some of California’s most prestigious wineries, expect a full, rich, wine of intense black fruits, with peppery, meaty accents and firm tannins.

And petite sirah, a French grape (from a crossing of syrah and peloursin) that has found California much more hospitable is the very definition of robust. I recently was turned on to BARRA of Mendocino, a family owned winery since 1955, with all their vineyards organically farmed. The 2017 Mendocino Petite Sirah ($22) ripe red and dark berries concentrated palate, typically chewy tannins, hard and unyielding unless you leave the wine in a decanter for a few hours.

 I also enjoyed two of Escudo Rojo’s top red wine offerings from Chile’s celebrated Maipo Valley. Escudo Rojo is a Chilean winery established in 1997 by Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA, owner of the world famous Chateau Mouton Rothschild and Opus One. The 2018 Gran Reserva ($22) is mostly cabernet sauvignon, carmenere and syrah, which give it density, firm tannins, and a touch of spice. The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva ($18) sports ripe black fruits with toasty notes and drinks nicely balanced.

Finally, introduce yourself to the 2018 Lost Eden Red Blend ($20) from the country of Georgia. Few in the U.S. know much about Georgian wine. Tucked between the Black Sea and the Caucasus Mountains bordering Russia, Georgia is now considered the likely “birthplace” of wine, with evidence of winemaking from 8,000 years ago. Georgian wines have captivated the interest of many sommeliers and may eventually convert consumers, too.

Lost Eden is a made mostly from the ancient native saperavi grape, the region’s most renowned grape variety and signature grape of the country.  A portion of the wine is made in traditional qvevris (pronounced kwevr-ees), large clay pots similar to amphorae). The result exhibits strong acidity balanced with somewhat sweet, brambly berries and earthy qualities. 

Whether you realize it or not all wines are blends, not just the ones labeled as such. Most varietally labeled wines use multiple grapes. Even wines actually made with just one grape are likely a blend of vineyards or vineyard blocks. And the wines usually are conditioned in several different types of barrels.

Instead of the character of just one variety, blends allow consumers to experience how different aromas and flavors from different grapes, vineyard sources and barrels come together to create a unique assemblage. Each of the wines below (focused on three California regions and listed in order of preference in each category) displays the synergy that embodies the classic sentiment of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts.

For many, the Bordeaux formula of blending various percentages of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, and petit verdot is the template. For others, the “Super Tuscans” of Italy are the benchmark, though sometimes substituting zinfandel for sangiovese. Still others take southern France as their inspiration, blending grapes like syrah, grenache, mourvedre, and petite sirah. Finally, some mix and match various grapes to achieve a desired style.

I begin with two good value priced wines from Paso Robles. J. Lohr’s 2018 “Pure Paso” ($27) sources four varieties (mostly estate grown cabernet sauvignon and petite sirah) from multiple estate vineyards – cool sites for savory elements and warm sites for lush, intense dark fruits. This well-built, full flavored wine also combines influences from French and American oak barrels from three coopers. 

The 2017 Robert Hall Paso Red Blend ($20) combines five varieties (mostly zinfandel and petite sirah) sourced from multiple vineyards in Paso Robles on California’s Central Coast. It is full-bodied, juicy with savory notes, chalky tannins and a spicy finish. 

J. Lohr’s Cuvée Series, a study of Bordeaux blends is an excellent example of the diversity principle. Designed to emulate the blending approaches typically practiced in the Pauillac, Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, the 2016’s ($60) also source grapes from multiple estate vineyards and use multiple coopers for barrel aging. 

Cuvée PAU is predominantly cabernet sauvignon, with concentrated dark fruits, savory accents, a silky frame, and chiseled tannins. Cuvée ST. E. is majority cabernet franc and significant cabernet sauvignon, wirh luscious black fruits, rich palate, and earthy notes. Cuvée POM is predominantly merlot (including French and Italian clones) with deep fruit, woodsy notes, firm tannins. These wines, especially the PAU, are fine values at the price.

Some blends are labeled “Meritage” (a designation established for qualified California blends in the late 1980s and pronounced like “heritage”), as is the case with these two from Sonoma County: 2016 Rodney Strong “Symmetry” ($55) – the name clues us in on this one’s goal of balancing those five Bordeaux varieties (mostly cabernet sauvignon from Alexander Valley and Northern Sonoma) creating a harmonious wine, supple yet firm, with concentrated fruit and elegant tannins. 2018 Dry Creek Vineyard “Meritage” ($35) also uses all five varieties (dominated by almost two thirds merlot from Dry Creek Valley) and French, American and Hungarian oak to reveal bright dark fruits, savory spice, and a fairly firm yet supple palate made for early drinking.  

Another wine mingling all five traditional Bordeaux grapes and combining estate grapes with purchased fruit (all Napa Valley appellation) is the 2018 Chappellet “Mountain Cuvée ($35). This one also is produced for early consumption with its lively dark berries, open fruit, and savory and cocoa notes. 

Paraduxx Winery (part of the Duckhorn portfolio) was the first Napa Valley winery solely dedicated to making blends. The following wines are good examples of how a single vineyard wine can still be a blend. The impressive 2016 Cork Tree ($82), from a vineyard on the Silverado Trail near the city of Napa, with 60 percent malbec, 35 percent cabernet sauvignon, 15 percent merlot, opens with ripe berries accented with tobacco, chocolate and coffee, followed by solid, fine-grained tannins. The 2017 Rector Creek Block 5 ($82) is 70 percent zinfandel and 30 percent cabernet sauvignon. It shows really lively, brambly zin fruit in a complex, spiced, rich and focused frame. 

Wines such as these demonstrate that just as cultural diversity is a societal strength, so diversity in winemaking has distinctive benefits. The result is a more complete, multidimensional wine with balance amidst complexity – the wine version of E pluribus unum (“from many one”). This is why wine long has captivated the imagination of winemakers and the taste buds of wine drinkers. 

Of course, the most important story in the world of wine in 2020 (as it was in the world and will be in 2021) was the COVID-19 pandemic. The pandemic affected every aspect of the wine industry. It shut down tasting rooms, almost eliminated sales demand from restaurants and bars and forced changes in how winery and vineyard staff work. Countless tasting events were cancelled, some were converted to virtual events, and others were scaled down to comply with public health orders.  

“Pivot” became the most used word for enterprises of all kinds. In wine, switching to online sales, virtual tastings, and offering delivery and curbside pickup became necessary to survive. Expect these to continue in 2021. Overall wine sales ended up slightly, though large volume wines sold better than wines from smaller premium wineries. I do worry about retail selection being more limited, though access to online sales from smaller wineries offsets that somewhat. 

Then one of the hottest summers on record brought one of the worst wildfire years on record. And shone a spotlight on the second most important wine story in 2020 – climate change. First in Australia, then America’s West Coast, especially in Oregon and Northern California, several wineries were damaged and some were destroyed, and vineyard workers were threatened, while “smoke taint” in vineyards has meant many wineries will not produce some of their wines this year.

More than 8,200 fires burned more than 4 million acres in California, more than double the previous record. In the U.S., there were 22 billion-dollar weather events, the sixth year in a row of $10+ billion-dollar weather events. The wildfires in California have been estimated to cost $5-$9 billion.

Even when the pandemic is “over”, the effects of climate change will continue. As global temperatures rise, growers are looking to higher altitudes to replace existing vineyards. Studies predict some wine regions will become incapable of the same quality within thirty years. In Bordeaux and other regions, they’re planting new grape varieties as a precaution. Scientific studies predict several wine regions will become incapable of producing the same quality in the next thirty years. More and more wineries are adopting practices to reduce their carbon footprint. Expect that to accelerate. 

The debate over alcohol’s place in a healthy diet ratcheted up as a government advisory panel recommended the U.S. reduce the guidelines for men from no more than two glasses of alcohol a day to one. After a firestorm of opposition from industry, the USDA’s new dietary guidelines retained the existing definition of moderate alcohol consumption. The debate will continue, though. As will the debate over wine labeling, even as a majority of consumers support putting ingredient and nutritional information on the bottle. 

If there wasn’t enough disruption already, the U.S. dramatically increased tariffs against the European Union(notably French, German and Spanish non-sparkling wines) in 2019, and expanded tariffs in 2020 causing imports to the U.S. to drop considerably and cost many jobs. Europe responded by increasing sales to China. Needless to say, the industry hopes the new administration ends the tariffs.

The wine world also was not isolated from the social movements of the year. The Black Lives Matter protests and scandal at the Court of Master Sommeliers brought increased attention to the lack of diversity and revelations of sexual harassment and assault in the hospitality industry. It’s too soon to tell but there have been encouraging signs in the wine trade, restaurants and bars are beginning to take a serious look at racism and sexism within their own ranks.

All of these matters will still be at issue in 2021. What’s clear is that there will be no return to “normal”; maybe a new normal or several new normals; but there is no going back. And that is as it should be. Long standing assumptions were challenged. We learned a lot in 2020 (let’s hope it sticks). And hopefully perseverance and change will be the watch words for 2021.

So, maybe you got a gift card or some cash over the holidays and you decide to treat yourself to an exceptional wine – something for a special occasion, a bottle you’ve always wanted but couldn’t afford, or maybe something that says “good riddance 2020; let’s get 2021 off to a better start”. The following suggestions are the best wines I tasted this year that I haven’t already reviewed. 

Your first impulse may be to pick up a highly coveted Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

2017 Spottswoode St. Helena Family Estate Grown ($225) While this estate dates to 1882, it has been producing wine under the current ownership since 1982. Notably, it was one of the first wineries to convert to organic growing in 1985 and has built a system of sustainability that also includes biodynamic methods. Now, Spottwoode’s estate Cabernet Sauvignon is consistently ranked as one of the most respected and sought-after Napa Cabs. This wine meets expectations with depth and concentration balanced with finesse and elegance. There is a layered complexity of multiple dark fruits, spices and herbs presented with dynamic energy that glides along a fine-grained texture.

2017 Chappellet Hideaway Vineyard ($125) Producing highly prized wines since 1967, especially Cabernet Sauvignon from its Pritchard Hill Estate, Hideaway is a single vineyard wine from secluded, rocky slopes of the estate. Luxurious oak is integrated nicely with forceful dark berries and mocha and tobacco notes. Its satiny palate ensures all this complexity coheres with grace and harmony. 

2017 Turnbull Oakville Reserve ($85) Established in the heart of the Napa Valley in 1979, Turnbull has intentionally remained small and focused on Bordeaux varieties, especially cabernet sauvignon. This wine is fashioned from two estate vineyards in the Oakville appellation. It deftly balances intense dark fruits with a graceful texture. Rich fruit is complimented with woodsy notes and luscious oak. 

Kendall-Jackson Stature Sonoma County ($100) Stature showcases the pinnacle of Kendall-Jackson winemaking with grapes that are estate sourced from the mountains, hillsides and ridges of Alexander Valley and Knights Valley. Featuring intense dark berry notes delivered on velvety tannins, this plush wine offers notes of tobacco, underbrush, sweet oak, chocolate and licorice leading to a nice, long finish. 

2016 Duckhorn The Discussion ($155) This conversation among cabernet sauvignon (55 percent), merlot (43 percent), cabernet franc and petit verdot (one percent each) from the best lots of Duckhorn’s six best estate vineyards is rich, structured and concentrated, yet graceful with inviting oak and savory accents. Though it is drinking nicely with integrated tannins, additional time will allow its elements to resolve into a to fine consensus. 

Looking to Europe, here are three Italian stars and a French luminary:

2016 Pio Cesare Barolo ($82) This family-owned producer since 1881in the Alba commune of Piemonte takes care to shape a classic interpretation of Barolo from its nebbiolo vineyards. This offering, an estate blend from five communes in the Barolo zone, is an excellent representation of the nature of Barolo with brisk acidity and firm tannins, yet elegance and bright fruit. It is enticingly fragrant and offers deep, dark fruit with mint and smoky notes. Well-integrated tannins deliver acidity and intensity. Is there such a thing as restrained richness?

2015 Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino ($70) This estate in the Montalcino zone of Tuscany is notable for its history (dates to the 12th century) and its size (5,000 acres including forest, resort and golf course). It has been owned by Massimo Ferragamo (of the shoe and fashion dynasty) since in 2003. The estate employs natural viticulture in growing the native sangiovese and has now been certified organic. The wine shows precise and energetic fruit balanced with a sense of richness as its intensity glides smoothly over the palate. It reveals complex herbs and spices and finishes with fine, dusty tannins.

2015 Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino ($80) Established in 1978 with the purchase of the medieval Castello Poggio alle Mura (which dates to at least 1438) and subsequently neighboring properties, its American owners restored the castello and have transformed the property into a leading producer of Brunello. Today, production is organic and the estate has been recognized for its environmental, ethical and social responsibility initiatives. This wine features bright red fruits, with almond, licorice, tobacco and spice notes. Its intensity glides on a silky texture finishing tight and long. 

2017 Domaine des Tourettes Hermitage ($99) This northern Rhône estate is owned by producer Delas Frères, which dates to 1835. The Domaine des Tourettes Hermitage is the first wine to be produced exclusively from the estate’s vineyard farmed on the famous hill that overlooks the town of Tain-l’Hermitage. A blend of wines from three specially selected plots, this full-bodied cuvée offers intensely vibrant red fruit, with typically meaty, smoky, lightly peppery notes. A creamy palate reveals tannic grip.

A SPARKLING NEW YEAR?

If there ever was a reason to celebrate one year ending and a new year beginning, this is it. Several bottles over. From Argentina, California, France, Italy and Oregon, here’s good riddance to 2020 and a hopeful welcome to 2021. 

Argentina. Domaine Bousquet Brut Pinot Noir/Chardonnay ($13). A pioneer in Tupungato, the highest district in the Uco Valley sub-region of Mendoza, Bousquet also is notable for its commitment to sustainable farming and organic production. All wines are 100 percent certified organic. This one is full of fresh apple, pear and cherry.

California. Frank Family Vineyards in Napa Valley has produced sparkling wine since its founding in 1993, continuing the tradition of the previous owner Hanns Kornell Champagne Cellars, which occupied the historic winery building (the original Larkmead Winery) from 1958 to 1992. The 2015 Brut Rosé ($55), with 90 percent pinot noir and 10 percent chardonnay, reveals pretty strawberry and cherry flavors gliding on a creamy palate. The 2016 Rouge ($55) despite more chardonnay (27 percent) and less pinot noir (73 percent), is ruby red as it experiences greater skin contact. It is vibrant, rich and creamy, with fresh acidity. 

Sosie Wines is located in the Bennett Valley of Sonoma County, a geography that funnels cooling Pacific air inland. Sosie emphasizes a French winemaking style to achieve precision and finesse in their wines. The winery has produced two unique, intriguing sparklers featuring Rhone varieties. The 2018 “First Things First” ($30) is made from roussanne. Very dry, it displays crisp stone fruits wrapped in brioche. It is barrel fermented with native yeast and full malolactic fermentation to achieve a delightful creaminess. The 2018 “A Moment of Weakness” Sparkling Red ($35) is 100 percent syrah and reveals dark berries and plums, with baking spice. 

Not surprisingly, the sparkling wine from Sea Smoke, a highly regarded Pinot Noir specialist is 100 percent pinot noir. From sustainable and biodynamic estate vineyards in Santa Barbara’s Santa Rita Hills, the 2015 “Sea Spray” Blanc de Noirs is another crisp, dry succulent wine. Fresh strawberries mix with brown butter in this energetic, complex bubbly. 

France. Billecart-Salmon, founded in 1818, has produced a unique cuvée, which is entirely vinified in oak and composed of the three Champagne varieties – pinot nor, chardonnay, and pinot meunier – in equal proportions. The Brut Sous Bois ($80) shows a dramatic bouquet of citrus, cherry and butter and a harmonious expression of citrus and pear coupled with a creamy mouthfeel. As the name suggests, there also is a complimentary earthy component.

Italy. Foamy, fruity Prosecco from northeastern Italy has emerged in recent years as Italy’s go-to valuebollicine (bubbles). Adami, one of the best producers, is known for pioneering single vineyard Prosecco. Its distinctive production methods of giving the wines extended lees contact after initial fermentation and conducting the second fermentation in small batches throughout the year, instead of in one large batch shortly after harvest. Four recent releases illustrate the results: 

• “Garbèl” Treviso Brut ($17) dry, crisp and tart with lemon and pear;
• “Bosco di Gica” Valdobbiadene Superiore Brut ($20) bottled with a touch of residual sugar, which lends body rather than sweetness to the palate, offers uplifting foam, brisk citrus with round texture, and tangy finish;
• 2019 “Col Credas” Valdobbiadene Rive di Farra di Soligo Extra Brut ($23) over nine years in development, it is very dry clean, refreshing and elegant with exotic fruit;
• 2018 “Vigneto Giardino” Valdobbiadene Rive di Colbertaldo Asciutto ($23) is from the family’s first vineyard (purchased in 1920) and in 1933 the first single-vineyard Prosecco ever made; it is fruity, focused and intense with a hint of anise. “Asciutto” means dry.

Although Piemonte in Italy’s northwest is most famous for its red wines – Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera, etc. – the region also excels with spumante. Enrico Serafino, established in the Roero district 140 years ago, produces fine reds but is best known as a specialist in the production of high quality Metodo Classico (referring to the Champagne Method). One the winery’s best is the 2016 “Oudeis” Alta Langa Brut DOCG ($28), made with chardonnay and pinot nero. It is a fantastic value with dramatic apple, yeasty notes, and impressive structure. 

Oregon. Since 1987, Argyle has been one Oregon’s top Pinot Noir and Chardonnay producers and arguably, the state’s best sparkling wine maker. Among its impressive portfolio, the 2016 Blanc de Noirs ($35), mostly pinot noir and a touch of pinot meunier from the Willamette Valley’s Eola-Amity Hills district. Its delightfully fresh and precise red berry fruit, savory notes and creamy texture a just the ticket. 

It’s always a good idea to support local businesses. And “buy local” has become a popular outcry in recent years. While it is most common in arts and crafts and especially in food, it also is relevant for beer, wine and spirits. And especially with the economic challenges caused by the pandemic, it is even more important to support these small businesses. Since this is a wine column and I am based in Colorado, I am suggesting Colorado wine for the holidays this year.

Colorado has a burgeoning wine industry (over 130 businesses) that is growing in national recognition. “Colorado wine is a fine choice for holiday meals, particularly the crisp, dry Rieslings or Tempranillo and some Italian varieties that would be a great red option for the bird. And of course, Cabernet Franc for roast beef or lamb,” said Doug Caskey, executive director of the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board. 

And, of course, think Colorado when looking for a holiday wine gift. Many wine shops in the state carry Colorado wine and many of the wineries have holiday gift offerings, whether individual bottles or special packages. A few of my favorites include Bookcliff Vineyards, Creekside Cellars and  Bonacquisti. Most wineries have online sales available on their own websites which you can link to from www.coloradowine.com. 

A special choice is The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey in Canyon City about two hours south of Denver, has many options worth perusing. You can purchase individual bottles but the winery offers a 15 percent case discount on most of their wines (assortments permitted) and 10 percent off six bottles. A special offering for the season is 20 percent off bottles of Riesling. You can choose from their full line of wines, including special releases like Divinity and Vineyard Sunset and exclusive bottlings, such as – Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and the flagship Revelation red wine blend – also are offered, although discounts are not available for these. They also are offering $15 shipping on orders over $125. You can choose by the bottle or cradled in a branded wooden gift box for an extra charge. Check out them out at https://abbeywinery.com.

The website also has numerous non-wine items available. A favorite is the set of 100% Extra Virgin Arbequina Olive Oil and Balsamic vinegar. Aged in Juniper and cypress barrels for up to eighteen years, the corrugated gift set ($47.50) contains olive oil, balsamic vinegar, seasoning mix, and a Portuguese hand-painted dipping dish. 

I also have for you two good options from California wineries with a Colorado connection. 

How about an opening to a new world of winemaking and wine photography with a gift from Aperture Cellars? Founded in 2009 in Sonoma County by winemaker and Boulder native Jesse Katz with his father, world famous photographer Andy Katz, each wine label features an original Andy Katz photograph. Andy is one of the most sought-after wine country photographers in the world, though his portfolio ranges beyond wine. 

Jesse has said he prefers Sonoma County, especially its cool sites, because it offers the best of both worlds: new world fruit and old world elegance. I would describe his winemaking approach as allowing the energy the soil has translated into the grapes to shine through his wines just as a camera’s aperture allows light to shine through. 

For someone not even forty years old yet, Jesse has an impressive list of accomplishments. His father brought him on visits to the most famous vineyards around the world. He got to experience wine as part of the food and cultural experience. Since graduating Fresno State, he traveled California and the world getting experience, including work at Chateau Petrus, Fess Parker, Screaming Eagle, Lancaster Estate and more. He also has made wine for Von Miller, and Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel.

Cabernet Sauvignon is Aperture’s signature wine but what he calls the “Soil Series” also includes a Bordeaux Red Blend, and a Barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc, and Chenin Blanc. The “Site Series” offers single vineyard wines. 

Aperture wines are available at select locations in Colorado, including retailers: and restaurants. The wines and special gift options also are available at the website (https://aperture-cellars.com).

And how about wine from Denver Broncos iconic quarterback John Elway? 7Cellars  was founded by Elway and his business partner, along with Napa winemaker Rob Mondavi, Jr. about seven years ago. Now, 7Cellars has expanded with a new portfolio – The Farm Collection – created in collaboration with ONEHOPE Winery. The line of three varietal wines (2018 vintage retails for $19) celebrates Elway’s college days (“The Farm’ is the knickname for Stanford University) and is intended to be more approachable (in price and drinkability) than Elway’s Reserve wines. 

The 2018 Chardonnay is sourced from Arroyo Seco, the 2018 Pinot Noir from Monterey, and the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles. If you cannot find the wines in local shops, they can be purchased online at www.7cellars.com. There also is a three-bottle magnetic gift box for $110. And for each bottle purchased, 7Cellars makes a donation to Team Rubicon, a nonprofit organization that supports, trains and deploys U.S. veterans on disaster relief missions around the world. To date, more than 5,870 veterans have been supported through sales of 7Cellars wines. 

Finally, if you are looking ahead to getting back out on the road in the coming months and have wine country in mind, again I suggest you keep it local. A nice guide is the recently released The Wines of Southwest U.S.A.($40).

In the book, author Jessica Dupuy  presents a useful hand book to the wines and wineries of Colorado, Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas. In each chapter, she covers the history, climate, wine producing regions, and the challenges each state wine industry face the future. Of course, there are highlights of key wineries that shouldn’t be missed. Each chapter also concludes with welcome recommendations for where to eat and stay. This book would make a fine gift for any wine country traveler. 

Despite a period early this century when its reputation took a hit, merlot is one of the most widely planted grape varieties in the world. It is the second most planted variety in the United States and the fourth most planted red variety in California. And Merlot is third in U.S. sales of California red wines after Cabernet Sauvignon and Red Blends. 

Merlot wine can be mistaken for its sibling Cabernet Sauvignon. The major difference is that it tends to present a softer texture and rounder mouthfeel. Expect cherry and blueberry fruit and herbal, sometimes chocolatey notes. 

It can produce Cabernet-like quality usually at more reasonable prices. And I did find several good values for this report. I also found the world-class quality one would expect at higher prices. Like Cabernet, the best wines are full, rich, featuring dark fruits and solid structure, often with savory or baking spice elements, balancing power, elegance, and complexity. All wines are listed in order of my preference, regardless of price.

2017 Duckhorn Three Palms Vineyard ($110) Considered by many California’s premier Merlot producer for the last 40 years. From the storied vineyard on the Napa Valley floor, this wine offers layers of succulent black cherry with toast, herbs and spice balanced with sweet oak. It is focused and rich but structured to develop well over the next several years. 

2017 Chappellet Napa Valley ($45) This maker of some of Napa’s most prized Cabs, also excels with Merlot. Expect plump cherry, blackberry, vanilla, cocoa, and herbaceous accents, in a rich, seamless frame, with firming tannins. 

2017 Duckhorn Rector Creek Vineyard ($100) This vineyard along Napa’s Silverado Trail, shows blueberry, baking spice, and a vanilla core. Structured but elegant. Should age well.

2016 Northstar Columbia Valley ($41) Washington state’s Merlot specialist; plump black cherry, cocoa notes, baking spice, herbs; presents as elegant and refined. 

2017 Duckhorn Atlas Peak ($78) High-elevation vineyards yield concentrated dark fruits, with vanilla, spice and rich, silky tannins. 

2016 St. Supéry Napa Valley Estate Vineyard ($50) Opens with a sense of sweet blueberry and blackberry; cocoa, oak and spice accent a lush but firm texture.

2017 Duckhorn Carneros ($78) With fruit from the famousnHyde and Hudson vineyards, this shows bright cherry and raspberry, wrapped in vanilla, with a hint of spice.

2017 Ehlers Napa Valley Estate ($55) Dark berries, lightly spicy and minty, shows admirable depth and richness, with fine-grained tannins. 

2017 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($56) Fresh dark cherry and plum, touch of toasty oak and spice, sense of firmness but supple and elegant.  

2017 Rutherford Hill Atlas Peak ($60) From a California Merlot pioneer; deep cherry, pretty vanilla, and herbal notes open lean but fill out and close as a deeply fruity wine.

2018 Barnett Vineyards Spring Mountain ($70) Juicy cherry and blueberry, followed by woody, earthy notes; fresh but soft, stewed fruit and anise flavors close. 

Finally, four solid values for every day:

• The Napa Valley fruit of 2017 Markham ($29) is juicy and supple, with a sense of concentration. 
• Alexander Valley fruit gives the 2018 Chelsea Goldschmidt “Guidestone Rise” ($22) juicy blue and black fruit, hints of creamy and minty oak, and accessible, refreshing texture. 
• Sonoma County grapes supply the flavorful red fruit of the softly fresh 2018 Decoy ($25). 
• The bright red berries of the lush 2018 Selby ($24) are accented with savory notes. 

Originally published in the Colorado Spring Gazette on November 18, 2020.

While cabernet sauvignon, merlot and pinot noir dominate red wine sales in the U.S. and most other markets, what are referred to as Rhône varieties – especially grenache, syrah and mourvèdre – can produce quality that rivals and often surpasses the big three. 

Grenache is the preferred variety in Southern Rhône, as it adapts well to the range of soils and growing conditions in the area and is the prime grape in the fine blends of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It is chock full of currant and red fruit flavors and contributes body and finesse.

Syrah is the star of Northern Rhône, producing the great wines of Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie. It is characterized by complex notes of dark fruits, herbs and spice. Low in acidity and high in tannins, it acts as a balancing force for the blend.

Mourvèdre makes a fine companion to grenache and syrah in the blended wines of the region. It usually contributes smaller percentages, except for the wines of Bandol. It provides deep color, structure and an array of flavors including blueberry, blackberries and herbs, black pepper and smoke.

These wines are often quite expensive. So, I suggest you try “Côtes du Rhône” for an affordable introduction. The red blends must be comprised of a minimum of 30% grenache, and grenache, syrah and mourvèdre are required to make up at least 70% of the blend. This allows winemakers to express their diverse terroir while showcasing their expertise and creating a consistent style. 

2017 J.L. Chave Sélection “Mon Coeur” ($22). Wine growers in the northern Rhône since 1481, Chave Hermitage, both rouge (syrah) and blanc (marsanne), are considered by many to be the epitome of such wines. Jean-Louis Chave Selections, the négociant line that sources grapes from various areas in the northern Rhône, represents a more accessible way for the consumer to experience the wines of the Chave family. “Mon Coeur” is a blend of half estate and half purchased organically grown grapes, with 60 percent grenache. As with all things Chave, quality – cherry compote, savory notes, touches of anise and earth – is eminent even at the entry level.

2017 Ferraton “Samorëns” ($16). A producer-négociant founded in 1946 that has pioneered estate-bottled wines in the Rhône; with 85 percent grenache, this blend shows nice red fruits, with hints of leather, earth cinnamon, and tea notes, and silky tannins. 

2016 Domaine St. Gayan ($16) based in the Southern Rhone appellation of Gigondas and notable for wines from very old vines (some up to 100 years in age); with 75 percent grenache it reveals a depth, richness and complexity not often found at this level.

2017 Jean-Luc Colombo Les Abeilles ($14). From one of the premier producers in the northern appellation of Cornas, this is open and round in mouthfeel with cherry and plum preserves, vanilla and anise. 

2016 Celliers des Dauphins Reserve ($15). Essentially a grower’s cooperative created in 1967 as the Union of Côtes du Rhône winegrowers bringing together 2,300 winemaking families in the southern Rhône Valley; with 60 percent grenache, it reveals bright berries, dark forest and pepper.

And I had a bit of a ringer in my Côtes du Rhône tasting, a 2017 Ferraton “La Matinière” Crozes-Hermitage ($26). A 100 percent syrah wine from the northern Rhône, this wine is a fine value and can be thought of as a more approachable (in terms of early drinking and price) alternative to the more complex and expensive Hermitage. Its crisp, generous dark fruits are offset with earthy accents, including pepper, smoke, leather, and mineral delivered in a velvety mouthfeel. 

The California Rhône style wines in my tasting, though all in a significantly higher price range, provide a useful comparison. In general, they can be characterized as displaying deeper, riper fruit, while staying true to varietal character.

2015 Ramey Syrah Rodgers Creek Vineyard ($65). Best known for great Chardonnays, Ramey also produces fine red wines, including this impressive single vineyard Syrah from a vineyard in the sought after Petaluma Gap area of Sonoma Coast. Made with 8 percent viognier following a common practice in Hermitage, it deftly balances ripe, fresh and generous berries and dark plum with savory elements of chocolate, pepper, licorice and earth. It’s focused but has soft tannins and a rich texture.  

2016 Mi Sueno Syrah Napa Valley ($55). From a husband and wife team with a resume that includes making wine for and supplying grapes to some of California’s most prestigious wineries; expect a full, rich, wine of intense black fruits, with peppery, meaty accents and firm tannins. 

Bootleg, a brand that emphasizes crafting wines without constraint from a specific varietal, appellation, or winemaking tradition, produces two red wine blends: “Red Blend”, which combines Napa Valley sources, and “Prequel”, which focuses on Sonoma County fruit. The varieties in each blend change from year to year but both contain significant amounts of syrah and petite sirah. These are exuberant, bold wines for those who prefer an opulent style. 

The 2016 Red Blend ($38) adds merlot to the blend and deftly balances structure, and finesse, with bright red fruit, oaky and earthy notes, with a fresh, full texture. The 2016 Prequel ($35) – 85 percent syrah and 15 percent petite sirah – is a luscious wine of refreshing dark berries, complimented with black pepper, woodsy and toasty oak, drinking with velvety tannins.