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THE BIG SUMMER 2013 CHARDONNAY REPORT

Chardonnay has long been considered the world’s greatest white wine grape. Its reputation for greatness has been firmly established by the heights it has achieved as the dominant white grape of Burgundy and Champagne. This reputation is probably the first thing that has attracted producers in other wine regions. It also turns out that chardonnay, like cabernet sauvignon, has an ability to make consistent, good wine in many regions around the world.

 

Consumers, for their part, have made chardonnay the most popular wine of any color in the world. And who could blame them? When done right, the grape yields a wine with a rich, full body and intense fruit that is easily recognizable and readily enjoyable.

 

Even a lower priced chardonnay should deliver rich, ripe fruit flavors, usually citrus or tropical, often also apple or pear, and sometimes melon or fig. Beyond accurate varietal fruit and an easy drinking style, more money should buy more body, concentration and complexity – such as an array of aromas and flavors, including spicy or toasty oak, honey, butter, cream, vanilla, butterscotch or hazelnut. Most of the wines, especially at higher price ranges, are best drunk within 2-4 years of release. The best wines should bring all this and more – intense flavors and layers of complexity, good acidic backbone, and succulent texture – but balance richness and weight with structure and acidity. They should combine both the power and grace that define the elusive quality of finesse. Here you will also find many that can improve with age.

 

The downside of chardonnay’s immense popularity is the rush to satisfy consumer demand has led to ill-advised plantings and overproduction. The result is many lackluster and uninteresting wines, particularly at the lower price ranges but also at the higher price levels. Because chardonnay’s popularity has grown even as the quantity of mediocre wine has increased, it has become something of a sport among wine journalists to trash the grape and the consumers who flock to it. Although it is clear that a lot of people are drinking a lot of bad chardonnay, my goal here is only to point readers to quality wines that deliver real flavor for your money.

 

Fortunately, there are plenty of responsible producers who consistently make wines that deliver the goods. And, if my tastings are any indication, producers as a whole have improved their offerings considerably, mostly by better balancing their use of new oak, malolactic fermentation, and sur lie aging (on “the lees”) to compliment ripe fruit and good acidity. It wasn’t long ago that in an article like this, I was able to recommend less than half of the wines I tasted. This time, I am recommending more than three-fourths.

 

Most wines in this report are from California but there are a few from other locales. The wines are listed in order of my personal preference within categories but all wines are recommended. Those that are likely to improve over time are marked “Ageable.”

 

EXCEPTIONAL

 

2011 Stonestreet “Bear Point” ($55) – mountain grown fruit, native yeast, 100% barrel fermented (malolactic and sur lie)and aged (50% new) 10 months; amazingly complex with orange, lemon nectarine and pineapple fruit, a honeyedrichness and a broad, creamy palate but a crisp mouthfeel and finishes with a mineral lift; Ageable

 

 

 

 

 

 

2011 Stonestreet “Broken Road” Alexander Valley ($40) – mountain grown fruit, native yeast, 100% barrel fermented (malolactic and sur lie) and aged (47% new) 10 months; intense and concentrated, smoky oak and buttery notes overlay complex lemon and orange citrus, apple and tropical fruit with mineral notes delivered with a rich, creamy texture balanced with vibrant acidity; Ageable

 

EXCELLENT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2010 Patz & Hall “Hyde Vineyard” Carneros ($58) – native yeast, 100% malolactic and 52% barrel fermented and sur lie aged in barrel; toasty, buttery oak gives way to citrus, pear, tropical fruit, and stony notes over a fairly full, lush palate buttressed by strong acidity; Ageable

 

2011 Frank Family Vineyards Napa Valley ($35) – sourced from Frank Family’s Lewis Vineyard in Carneros, 100% barrel aged (one-third new) 10 months; juicy fruit of apple, citrus, apricot, and pineapple, caramel hazelnut oak spices and creamy texture balanced with fresh acidity, crisp finish

 

2011 Patz & Hall “Hudson Vineyard” Carneros ($55) – native yeast, 100% malolactic fermentation in barrel, barrel aged sur lie (55% new); oaky and buttery, with a lush palate but nicely balanced with lifted pear, tangerine and tropical fruit, and a rich but crisp texture

 

2011 Stonestreet Upper Barn ($75) – mountain grown fruit, native yeast, 100% barrel fermented (malolactic and sur lie) and aged (50% new) 10 months; opens with lush tropical fruit but powerful lemony acidity quickly asserts itself in this deeply concentrated and rich wine notable for its big, broad aromas and flavors that some may find overblown, while others may appreciate its intensity; Ageable

 

2011 Chappellet Napa Valley ($35) – sourced from cooler vineyards in southern Napa, 100% barrel aged on sur lie 8 months (one-third new); nice tropical notes, with a suggestion of toast and sweet oak precede a rounded texture, a bit of woody bitterness complimented by citrus, and tropical fruit, finishes light on its feet but lingers nicely

 

2011 Buty “Conner Lee Vineyard” Columbia Valley ($40) – initial fermentation in barrel sur lie, malolactic fermentation and aged in concrete, yields caramel apple leading into pear, pineapple and lemon fruit, elegant palate, balanced and supple rich finishes with juicy acidity.

 

2011 Patz & Hall “Dutton Ranch” Russian River Valley ($42) – native yeast, 100% malolactic fermentation in barrel (35% new) and barrel ages sur lie; Patz & Hall excels at the rich and oaky style and this one lavishes juicy pineapple, citrus, and pear with butter and cream but again offers ample acidity to keep it all together.

 

VERY GOOD

 

2011 Sequoia Grove Napa Valley ($28) – from Carneros fruit, stainless and barrel fermented (no malolactic), barrel aged 8 months sur lie; fine and firm, lively but well mannered, with citrus, orange, honey, toast and mineral notes, fresh and juicy

 

2011 La Crema Russian River Valley ($30) –100% barrel fermented (32% new) and malolactic fermentation, barrel aged 8½ months sur lie; quite aromatic with very nice lemon and crème brulee, clean, deep citrus and peach wrapped in fresh cream, fairly full and rich, ripe but well-balanced; Ageable

 

2010 Craggy Range “Kidnappers” Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand ($21) – native and inoculated yeast, stainless and barrel fermented and barrel aged 5 months; zesty citrus and tropical fruit meet a touch of oak and a suggestion of crushed nuts

 

2011 Kendall-Jackson “Grand Reserve” ($22) –100% barrel aged (one-third new) sur lie; from Santa Barbara and Monterey fruit, nice citrus and tropical fruit wrapped in light butterscotch with a touch of toasty oak

 

2011 Talbott “Sleepy Hollow Vineyard” Santa Lucia Highlands ($42) –100% barrel fermented and aged (30% new) sur lie 11 months; touches of sweet oak compliment concentrated apple, tropical and citrus fruit and mouthwatering acidity; Ageable

 

2010 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($26) – 100% barrel fermented (including malolactic) and aged (30% new) 10 months; nice mix of citrus and creamy oak, hint of butter, tight citrus in the mouth, an intriguing bitterness in middle, but a seamless texture

 

2011 Patz & Hall Sonoma Coast ($38) – native yeast, 100% barrel fermented and aged (40% new) 7 months; juicy citrus and tropical fruit, buttery aroma, creamy texture, and a fresh finish

 

2011 Francis Ford Coppola Winery “Director’s Cut” Russian River Valley ($21) – 100% barrel fermented (including malolactic) and aged (30% new) sur lie; citrus and baking spices are followed by a flavorful, sumptuous palate and a bright finish

 

2011 Talbott “Logan” Santa Lucia Highlands ($24) – a less expensive version of Sleepy Hollow Vineyard, 80% barrel fermented (20% stainless) and barrel aged 10 months; bright citrus, light cream, lemon merengue, touch of spice, rather firm and intense, quite a mouth impact, solid impact

 

2011 Davis Bynum “River West Vineyard” Russian River Valley ($30) – 100% barrel fermented (including malolactic) and aged (30% new) sur lie; toasty oak and vanilla, with grilled pineapple introduce a nice creamy entry, with butterscotch, but also lively dance on tip of the tongue, Barrel fermented full malolactic fermentation

 

2010 Grgich Hills Estate Grown Napa Valley ($42) – from organic and biodynamic American Canyon and Carneros fruit, native yeast, 100% barrel fermented (no malolactic) and aged (40% new) 10 months; citrus and pear fruit with solid backbone and crisp finish, a refreshing alternative to the big, buttery style

 

2010 Byron “Nielsen Vineyard” Santa Maria Valley  ($32) – native yeast, 100% barrel fermented (including malolactic) and aged (40% new) sur lie 12 months; nicely aromatic citrus, mango and orange, with a buttery note, good balance of fruit and acid; Ageable

 

2012 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($30) – stainless steel fermentation (including malolactic), barrel aged (15% new) 4 months; very fresh lemon and orange aromas and flavors, light touch and juicy palate

 

2011 “Charm Acres”, Sonoma Coast ($21) – 100% barrel fermented (no malolactic) and aged (25% new) sur lie 8 months; citrus and pear fruit, with a spicy note followed by an intense and mango and a touch of minerality

 

2012 Kendall-Jackson “Avant” ($17) – 54% stainless and 46% barrel fermented (partial malolactic) and aged (30% new) 10 months; citrus and floral notes throughout, lots of juicy fruit and a full body

 

2012 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” ($17) – 100% barrel fermented (including malolactic) and aged sur lie; citrus and cream in nose and mouth, juicy, creamy texture, light spice in finish

 

GOOD

 

2010 Amapola Creek “Jos. Balli Vineyards” Sonoma Valley ($35) – light pear, citrus and oak and a lush texture

 

2011 La Crema Monterey County ($20) – Arroyo Seco fruit, tangy citrus and tropical fruit, light butterscotch

 

2011 Stoller “Reserve” Dundee Hills, Oregon ($35) – pleasant lemon, toast and oak, light, crisp, strong-tight citrus spine

 

2011 Rodney Strong “Chalk Hill Estate” Sonoma County ($22) – fresh, citrus, and orange, oily texture carries nice fruit

 

2011 Landmark “Overlook” ($25) – juicy tropical fruits, touch of cream with orange essence, creamy texture

 

2011 J. Lohr “October Night” Arroyo Seco ($25) – pineapple and some lemon with butter and cream, nice lush texture

 

2011 Rodney Strong Sonoma County ($22) – butter, pineapple, touch of brown spice, light, fruity, spicy aftertaste

 

2012 Arrowood Sonoma County ($21) – lemon wrapped with oaky, buttery cloak with vanilla, tropical fruit, nicely balanced

 

2011 Byron Santa Maria Valley ($27) – nutty, creamy, toasty aromas followed by fig and honey flavors

 

2011 J. Lohr “Riverstone” Arroyo Seco ($14) – rather firm, a buttery note, decent citrus, touch of butterscotch in finish

 

2011 Jordan Russian River Valley ($30) – lightly creamy, oaky notes combine with pineapple and tart citrus in a lean frame

 

2011 Lange Twins Clarksburg ($15) – white plum, honey, smoke, soft and fruity, lingering finish

 

2011 Edna Valley Vineyards “Paragon Vineyard” ($12) – butterscotch, caramel, lemon merengue, light cream, fat and soft

 

2011 Talbott “Kali Hart” Estate Grown ($20) – nice tropical aromas, sugary overlay, somewhat light but tasty, a slight vegetal finish

 

2011 Clos LaChance Chardonnay Monterey County ($11) – toasty pineapple with touch of spice, bright citrusy flavors

 

2011 Matchbook “Old Head” Dunnigan Hills ($15)– fresh apple and lively tropical fruits

 

2011 Cambria “Katherine’s Vineyard” Estate Bottled Santa Maria Valley ($22) – a smoky, charred character, strong citrus in nose and mouth,

 

2011 Dark Horse California ($8) – lemon, toasty notes, with licorice scents

 

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BOSTON AND CAMBRIDGE SERVE UP UNPARALLELED HISTORY MATCHED WITH SIDES OF IMPRESSIVE FOOD & CULTURE

In the course of seeking out my family members for recommendations for our upcoming vacation, I naturally talked to my nephew who had lived in Boston for a few years while going to graduate school. He promptly told me “Boston is my favorite city in the world.” After a week in the most historic of American cities, I can see why he would have that opinion.

 

Actually, I should say “Boston area” because we spent some time in Cambridge and other nearby cities. I had been once before but not for this long and I was really looking forward to the trip, for three basic reasons: The history and culture, the food and the beer.

 

History, Culture and Art

 

I had taken the “Freedom Trail” before. It is a 2½-mile walking route that covers sixteen historically significant sites, many among the most important in our nations founding. It is a must for every first time visitor. This time I opted for a walking market tour of the North End, Boston’s “Little Italy,” offered to me by “Michele Topor’s Boston Food Tours.”

 

I was struck by how isolated this area seemed from the rest of the city, almost like another world … but a well preserved and fascinating world. To see the Old North Church and Paul Revere’s House makes one take pause and ponder our country’s beginnings. But this tour was mostly focused on the neighborhood’s Italian food and wine culture.

 

This has got to be one of the highest concentrations of food shops and restaurants anywhere. Our tour wound through the neighborhood visiting six representative stores. We began at Maria’s Pastry Shop, moved a few doors down to De Pasquale’s
 Homemade Pasta Shoppe, then sampled bread at Bricco Pantteria, coffee at Polcari’s, salami and prosciutto at Sulmona Meat Market, veggies at Alba Produce, and cheese at Monica’s Mercato. You get the idea. And these places are only the tip of the iceberg in this fascinating neighborhood.

 

Boston also is home to world-class art and theater. We found a good way to access some of the most important institutions was with the “Boston City Pass,” The pass affords general admission to five attractions – New England Aquarium, Museum Of Science, Skywalk Observatory, Museum Of Fine Arts, 
Harvard Museum Of Natural History, and The Old State House – at close to half the price of the individual admissions.

 

 

We were especially impressed with the collection at the Museum of Fine Arts, which included works by Monet, Degas, Pissarro, Renoir, Callebotte, Cézanne, and Van Gogh, not to mention an extensive antiquities collection and, during out visit, a special exhibition of Sixties fashion called “ Hippie Chic.” I also recommend everyone check out the Skywalk Observatory on the 50th floor of the Prudential Center (an office building and a giant indoor mall). Great 360° views of the city and surroundings, including Boston Harbor, the Boston Common and Fenway Park are enriched with displays – dubbed the Dreams of Freedom Immigration Museum – recounting important developments in the city’s history.

 

 

We also took the opportunity to attend a performance of the acclaimed Blue Man Group. BMG performs regularly at the historic, 175 year-old Charles Playhouse in Boston’s Theater District. The show featured innovative performances involving music, technology, and comedy. And it did not disappoint.

 

We also were glad we decided to venture down to the crowded waterfront to see the Institute for Contemporary Arts. It’s in an impressive setting with views of the Boston Harbor. We viewed works from the collection by Phillip Taffe, Paul Chan, Annette Lemieux, and Mickalene Thomas. And we were really impressed with the Barry McGee Exhibit. Barry McGee is “street artist” or “graffiti artist” (I’m not sure of the proper term). He uses found materials, leftover paint and other tools of the tagging trade to create explorations of urban life, in this case mostly the Mission District of San Francisco.

 

Dining – Boston

 

 

During our visit, we were hosted for a dinner at Osaka Japanese Sushi & Steakhouse in Brookline. Osaka is the only Japanese Steak House (Hibachi restaurant) in the area. Osaka offers diners two different but complimentary dining options: entertaining Hibachi grill show and quiet sushi rooms. Osaka also has extensive menus of traditional and creative Japanese cuisines.

 

We began with a rather impressive “Tomo” roll that was spicy, crunchy salmon and mango topped with seared salmon, white tuna, avocado, crispy rice, and honey wasabi sauce. It was almost a meal in itself. We also enjoyed a Shrimp Hibachi entrée and the Chefs Special char-grilled Chilean sea bass, marinated in sake sauce. Although it is a bit of a distance from the center of the action in Boston, if you find yourself in or near Brookline, Osaka is worth a stop.

 

 

We also appreciated a lunch invitation from The Palm. Located in the Financial District (of course), this outpost of the national upscale steak and seafood chain presented atmosphere to more than match its fare. It was amazing to learn The Palm began 87 years ago as an Italian restaurant in New York and is still family owned. The Palm restaurants may be most famous for the caricatures of local notables and celebrities on the walls but I’ve always appreciated the professional and attentive service. And the Boston restaurant lived up to the reputation. Here, everyone is made to feel special.

 

As for the food, my wife raved about her bountiful Jumbo Lump Crab Cake sandwich, while I opted for the Three Course Power Lunch. I started with a fresh Gazpacho; then savored a moist Cod special and finished with the signature Flourless Chocolate Cake. After all these years, The Palm continues to provide its guests with an all round fine dining experience.

 

For good food and a great view it would be hard to beat Legal Harborside. We were excited to be invited to Legal Seafoods’ new 20,000 square foot flagship property
 on the Boston Waterfront in the bustling Seaport District adjacent to the historic Boston Fish Pier (the oldest continuously working fish pier in the United States). Legal Sea Foods started as a fish market in Cambridge, MA in 1950 and, still family-owned, now operates a chain of restaurants along the Eastern Seaboard.

 

Legal Harborside really is an impressive building, with three floors featuring three distinct dining concepts. We ate on the first floor where the menu reflects the company’s heritage of casual fresh seafood favorites, an oyster bar and an old-fashioned fish market. From the extensive menu, we started with Baked Stuffed Artichokes with shrimp and scallop stuffing and while my wife couldn’t resist the fresh cold-water north Atlantic lobster, I chose a seasonal soft shell crab special. The second floor menu features a fine dining experience. And the third floor rooftop lounge actually has a retractable glass roof and walls making it usable year-round. Quite impressive.

 

Finally, we made time before the Blue Man Group to have a delightful brunch at Market by Jean Georges, a casual but elegant space in the W Hotel from the superstar New York chef.

 

Dining – Cambridge

 

We also made a point of venturing over to Cambridge a few times to sample the culinary offerings in this city best known for its institutions of higher learning. Next time we come to the area, we also will have visit its art and other cultural attractions. We had two fantastic meals in the Harvard Square commercial district.

 

 

And, as it turned out, both restaurants are run by chef’s who have been named Food & Wine Magazine Best New Chefs. At Harvest, a Harvard Square favorite since the 1970s, chef Mary Dumont continues a tradition of employing well regarded and award winning chefs, such as Barbara Lynch, Bob Kinkead and Lydia Shire. Dumont’s contemporary New England food proved I made the right choice for our dinner with a friend who lives in the area. I also was excited to finally eat at Rialto, Jody Adams’ restaurant of twenty years. I have been reading about this restaurant and Chef Adams for almost that long and was not disappointed. Her contemporary Italian food was impeccable, as were the New England–style dishes.

 

We also were lucky to find Catalyst in Kendall Square. Chef William Kovel, who has worked at some of Boston’s best restaurants, produces what probably is best described as modern American with Italian influences. We enjoyed brunch so much we went back for lunch. As a bonus, all of these restaurants work with local producers and use organic and sustainably produced products as much as possible.

 

Beer, Beer and More Beer

 

I cannot conclude an article about Boston and Cambridge without at least a few words on the beer culture. Although that beer culture has a long history, I submit its modern history begins in 1984 when Jim Koch established the Boston Beer Company. His Samuel Adams Boston Lager wasn’t the first contemporary craft brew (I’m thinking Anchor Steam beer has that credit.) but it did emulate its namesake and brew a revolution in the American beer industry. Today, it is the largest craft brewery in the U.S. and the fifth largest brewery by production.

 

We enjoyed an informative tour of the original brewery (located in the suburb of Jamaica Plain) made really special, as our guide was head brewer Jennifer Glanville. Even if your tour is not lead by the head brewer, a visit here is a must. There are numerous displays explaining how beer is made and Sam Adams beer history. And this location is now the company’s experimental brewery. You just might get to taste some of the new creations.

 

We also made time to venture back to the Seaport District for a visit to Harpoon Brewery, Boston’s other famous brewery. Harpoon is the ninth largest craft brewery in the U.S. and the sixteen largest by production but unfortunately is not available in Colorado. So, it was extra special to try a taster of six beers at the brewery’s Beer Hall. This is another place worth a visit.

 

Back in Cambridge, the Cambridge Brewing Company should be on any beer fan’s itinerary. Located in Kendall Square not far from the Catalyst, this place combines excellent beer with equally good food. I still remember the Cioppino I had. Proof beer and food pairing can be as satisfying as wine and food pairing.

 

In fact, the whole week was satisfying, even though there are about two dozen other restaurants I wanted to try and at least a dozen other sites I wanted to visit. Our only complaint for the whole week was the traffic. I thought it was bad in Denver. This was worse. Still, I can’t wait to go back.

 

 

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Fallbrook Brewing Company – Celebrating All Things Local

As the craft beer movement continues to grow in San Diego County, Fallbrook Brewing Company stands out as a promising contender.  Embracing all things local, the brewery has a true charm nestled in the heart of Fallbrook’s downtown.  The community of Fallbrook lies northeast of Oceanside and just southwest of Temecula Valley’s wine country.  It known for its avocado groves boasting itself asthe “Avocado Capital of the World.” It is often called “The Friendly Village”where the community hosts their annual Avocado Festival drawing large crowds.  As the friendly village, the local are really just that.  Many are lifelong residents and appreciate the localvore of the area.

In fact, Fallbrook continues to grow embracing their agricultural roots featuring local farms such as Terra Bella Ranch and gastronomic dining like Oink and Moo Burgers and BBQ.  This is a creative community showcases a large art movement with the school of the arts along with a popular art center.  With this creative uprising now comes the next movement with all things local…beer.

Enter Fallbrook Brewing Company (FBC).  The beers are unique boasting local ingredients in popular craft brew favorites.  It is a small craft brewery or nano brewery with a tasting room to serve those seeking local handcrafted beer. FBC houses a small three barrel brewing system allowing the brewers to be creative and offer a spectrum of staple beers and variety of specialty offerings. They strive to utilize local ingredients whenever possible and their goal is to have a positive impact on the local community – “Be Social, Drink Local.”

FBC is a family operation with brothers Chuck and Stephan McLaughlin and their spouses Jaime and Jenn.  Family and friends help run the tap room, so the atmosphere is welcoming and fun.  Serving as head brewer, Chuck is an up and comer with local awards for home brew.  In fact, McLaughlin won for his Rubus Vigoratus, a Russian Imperial Stout with notes of coriander and raspberries (8% ABV), which he brewed with Iron Fist Brewing Company in neighboring Vista, California.  The McLaughlins are fans of the floral spicy notes in a Belgian yeast, along with the hoppiness of IPAs, so expect to find some surprises brewed up to include a camomile IPA and saison made with local avocado blossom honey.

The staples for FBC will honor the streets of Fallbrook – Stagecoach Stout (5.5% ABV), Sleeping Indian IPA (6.5% ABV), Reche Rye Pale Ale (6% ABV), Calavo Cream Ale (4.8% ABV) and Wilt Road Wit (check out line up here).  However the specialty beers definitely show off the fun and flavorful palates of this team. Highlights from their sold out grand opening included a Coffee Stout from locally roasted coffee from Temecula (5.5% ABV), Portleigh Stout with black currents (7% ABV), a Tinge of Ginge Ale with hints of ginger (4.8% ABV) and other fun specialties such as the Apple Jack Rye PA with apples and whiskey (6.5%) and Plum Crazy Saison with fresh plum jam (6% ABV).  My favorite was the Sour Saison, a summer saison with the spice and farmhouse style you expect with a nice sour pucker finish (6% ABV).  Their specialty Coffee and Cream on nitro (4.8% ABV) tapped out by the second session of the grand opening making it one of the most popular of the day.  It is easy to see that the McLaughlins are passionate about their beers and passionate about Fallbrook.

Tasting room hours are Wed-Thu 3-8pm, Fri 3-9pm, Sat 12-9pm and Sun 12-5pm and is located on 136 Main Avenue.  Check out FallbrookBrewing.com for the most up-to-date info on brews, events and more!  Grab a sandwich Dominick’s or a burrito at Estrella’s and belly up at the bar for a pint.  Lift your glass and toast the newest brewery in San Diego County.  This is one brewery you do not want to miss.  Cheers!

 

 

 

Featured Writer:  Cari Gordonne works for the U.S. Marine Corps servicing over 50,000 Marines, Sailors and their families aboard Camp Pendleton. She has served on the board for Slow Food Temecula Valley since 2008. Passionate about good, clean, fair food with a commitment to community and the environment.  She enjoys la dolce vita in wine country, but is a native of Colorado. Blessed with a great Italian family, she is foodie enthusiast and is also the niece of Rich Mauro.

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HOPE FAMILY SHOWCASES THE BEST OF PASO ROBLES

On a recent press trip to Paso Robles, sponsored by Hope Family Wines, our host Austin Hope set the tone for the visit when he said it was his goal to show us the diversity of the region, not just his wines. I welcomed this, not only because Hope’s wines have long been among my favorites but also because I had been to Paso twice before and was eager to see how the region has developed.

 

Paso Robles is the largest American Viticultural Area (AVA) in California. It is also the name of the main town of about 30,000, whose original name was El Paso del Robles (“Passage of the Oaks”). But, after my visits to the area, I think Paso could just be short for “passion.

Austin Hope oversees Hope Family Wines (www.hopefamilywines.com), a family-owned and -operated enterprise encompassing five brands: Liberty School, Treana, Candor, Austin Hope and Troublemaker wines. Austin’s father, Chuck Hope moved his family from the Central Valley to Paso in 1978 to plant wine grapes pioneering families of the region. After growing grapes and developing vineyards throughout the eighties and early nineties, the family became convinced Paso Robles was capable of producing world-class wines and began producing their own wines.

 

They joined a handful of other pioneering families who helped promote the region, not just as a source of fine quality grapes but also as a complete wine travel destination. Today, Austin and Hope Family Wines also epitomize Paso Robles’ reputation for being on the cutting edge, a reputation Austin has fostered by experimenting with Rhone-style blends and multiple vintage wines.

At a tour of the Huerhuero Vineyard, a longtime source for entry level Liberty School wines, on the Eastside of Paso Robles, and of the nearby Hope Family Wines winemaking facility, we learned from General Manager of Vineyard Operations Suhky Sran, Winemaker J.C. Diefenderfer, and Assistant Winemaker Samantha Taylor about the family’s role in developing vineyards throughout Paso Robles and how they work with over 50 family-owned vineyards to produce fruit for the Liberty School wines. The brand had bee created in the 1970’s by the Wagner family of Napa’s Caymus Vineyards and the Hopes collaborated with the Wagners since the late 1980’s to supply cabernet sauvignon grapes. He Hope’s then took over sole responsibility for the brand in 1996.

 

Today, there is a range of varietals that deliver consistent quality for the money and are regularly recognized as a “Good Values” and “Best Buys.” Look for Cabernet Sauvignon (2010, $14), Chardonnay wines (2011, $14), Pinot Noir ($20), and Liberty School Merlot ($16). The wines are made in a more restrained, food friendly style with forward fruit, good varietal character, and moderate alcohol.

 

The Hopes then established Treana Winery in 1996, to produce high-end Rhone-style blends from Paso Robles and Central Coast fruit. JC explained to us the name Treana symbolizes the trinity of natural elements – sun, soil and ocean – that make Paso Robles and the Central Coast exceptional for growing wine grapes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To give us a flavor for what this means, we toured the Mer Soleil Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands near Salinas (our only stop outside of Paso Robles). This Monterey County-based vineyard is the long-time major source for Treana White, one of the first white Rhone-style blends and still one of the most highly regarded. The current vintage (2011, $23) is a blend of equal parts viognier and marsanne. Floral and tropical aromatics precede ripe pear and honey flavors combined with a lush texture and balancing acidity.

 

The Treana Red (2010, $45), which Austin considers his flagship wine, is a blend of cabernet sauvignon and syrah. It combines the depth and structure of a Cab, with the fullness and class of syrah. It is a perfect example of Austin’s willingness to work outside-the-box. Not many wineries were combining Rhone and Bordeaux blends when he created this wine almost twenty years ago.

The Hopes also own a vineyard on the Westside of Paso Robles planted primarily to syrah and grenache, with some mourvedre. Austin crafts wines inspired by the Northern Rhône Valley from this estate grown fruit. Known as the Hope Family Vineyard, it is located 20 miles east of the Pacific Ocean in the Templeton Gap district of Paso Robles. The site’s rocky soils of clay and limestone make it ideal for the Rhône varietals to which it is planted.

 

At this site, we were given a fascinating overview of the sustainable farming practices – certified by Sustainability in Practice (SIP), www.sipcertified.com – employed in the vineyard. Beth Vukmanic Lopez, Sustainability in Practice Certification Manager explained how for over 15 years, SIP has helped growers, vineyards and consumers rethink their approach to sustainability. As Beth said, SIP Certified sustainable vineyards and wines is about looking at the whole farm and considering “people, planet and profit.” In this sense, SIP is complementary to organic practices, not necessarily a replacement. Of course, a winery needs to make a profit to stay in business but that is closely tied to the quality of the wines, which depends on the quality of the grapes, which is connected to healthy vineyards. But SIP practices also consider the well being of the vineyard and winery workers, an often over looked factor. An important element to the success of the program is the third party certification SIP provides using independent auditors.

 

At the winery and tasting room on site, we enjoyed a barrel tasting of 2012 vintage Austin Hope Syrah and Grenache. Austin told us he uses traditional Côte-Rotie as his benchmark in making his syrah. But, being in California, he added he likes his wines to taste like the old world wines “but with a little bit more.”

This approach showed through the current vintages we tasted. The Syrah (2010, $42) displayed a balance of savory and fruit elements. Aromatic, intense and full-bodied, it also was elegant with pure berry fruit, licorice and earthy complexity. The Grenache (2010, $42) revealed characteristics of dried red fruits, earth and spices with good concentration, firm acidity and soft tannins.

 

The Hopes haven’t stopped to rest on these successful brands. Another label, “Candor” was created in 2008. These multi-vintage wines, a Merlot and Zinfandel, are crafted from specially selected fruit from a variety of Central Coast vineyards. They exhibit excellent varietal flavor at a reasonable price. We tasted the Zinfandel Lot 4 ($20) and Merlot Lot 3 ($20), which I found notable for their true varietal flavor and fresh, bright fruit.

 

Finally, the newest label in the Hope Family stable, “Troublemaker,” places Austin Hope’s creativity and willingness to challenge convention on full display. Troublemaker Blend 6 ($20) is a multi-vintage montage of 50% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Zinfandel and 10% Petite Sirah. Its profile reflected its name with brash fruit and lively texture.

While it was great to learn about all the Hope wines, the trip was made really special by the inclusion of visits to some of Paso Robles most notable artisan producers and restaurants.

 

Villa Creek (www.villacreek.com) has long been a destination restaurant for Paso Robles.

Artisan (www.artisanpasorobles.com) grows some of its ingredients at a local organic farm and showcased a distinctive wine on tap program.

Thomas Hill Organics (www.thomashillorganics.com) is a casual market-bistro that serves spectacularly fresh food, not surprising since most of it comes from their own organic farm.

Il Cortile Ristorante (www.ilcortileristorante.com) features exceptional homemade pastas, fresh seafood, and top-quality meats.

 

All of the restaurants craft dishes as much as possible from seasonal, locally grown ingredients from small producers, much of it organically or sustainably farmed. At these restaurants, farm-to-table is not just a marketing slogan. They live it every day. I will say without hesitation these places are as good as the best restaurants in any city in the nation.

 

And as if that wasn’t enough, to give us a sampling of the top quality artisan products being produced in the area we also toured two special places.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A visit to the Kiler Ridge Olive Farm (http://kilerridge.com) with founders Audrey Burnam & Gregg Bone was eye opening. Although it is just minutes from downtown Paso Robles the hilly, picturesque location transports visitors to another location, specifically Italy. Kiler Ridge uses sustainable farming practices and currently maintains 2,500 olive trees – varieties originating from Italy and Sicily.

 

Gregg and Audrey were gracious hosts. Gregg provided us with an extensive overview of his production process and explained in amazing detail why most of the “extra virgin” olive oil we buy in the supermarket isn’t really, regardless of what’s on the label.

 

It was particularly enlightening to me to actually taste the difference. The Kiler Ridge oils were noticeably fresher and displayed distinct grassy and peppery flavors. Greg explained this is because his oils have much higher polyphenol content – he even said, “I’m a polyphenol producer, not an olive oil producer.” Polyphenols are strong antioxidants with many health benefits. Bottom line, though, the oils were delicious but admittedly might be an acquired taste for some consumers used to blander commercial oils.

 

And they presented us with the most eye opening taste sensation I have hade in years: vanilla ice cream topped with sea salt, my choice of Kiler Ridge olive oil and balsamic syrup. All I can say is “wow!” It was delicious with all the savory and sweet elements melding together beautifully.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also took a refreshing break from winetasting for a tour of the Firestone Walker Brewery (www.firestonebeer.com) with Brewmaster Matt Brynildson. Firestone Walker (named for owners Adam Firestone and David Walker) has been brewing since 1996 but moved from Santa Barbara to Paso Robles in 2001. Firestone Walker and Brewmaster Brynildson are one of the nation’s most awarded breweries and are particularly notable for their use of barrel fermentation for several of their ales.

 

I wholeheartedly recommend the next time you are considering a vacation to wine country, make Paso Robles your destination. The number of wineries has grown from about forty 25 years ago to over 200 (mostly small and family-owned) today. But that is only the beginning of this region’s story. Passionate, dedicated artisan producers with a commitment to sustainability are to be found everywhere in the region.

 

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DESCHUTES BREWERY NEW RELEASES WORTH A TASTE

One of the things I’ve always found fascinating about craft brewers is the seemingly endless desire for experimentation. It’s not enough to simply brew a pale ale, lager, pilsner or IPA. There is a strong drive to innovate, to try new flavors and styles.

 

Such is the case with Deschutes Brewery, a leader in the craft beer industry for 25 years. Deschutes recently released two new brews from its Bond Street Series, which originated as experiments with different styles at the flagship pub on Bond Street in Bend Oregon. It now features the most popular results from all their pubs. Both of the new releases are IPAs.

 

“Hop in the Dark,” the result of 22 experimental brews in Deschutes Bend and Portland pubs over more than a year is what might be called a black IPA, though Deschutes calls it a Cascadian Dark Ale. At 6.5% ABV, it also sports 70 IBUs. It reveals floral, spicy pine, and coffee notes in the aroma. A rich, roasted caramelized character from a combination of malts (Pale, Munich, Crystal, Chocolate, Chocolate Wheat, Black Barley, Flaked Oats, and Toasted Oats) is offset with citrus and given structure on the palate from the hops (Nugget, Citra, Mosaic Northern Brewer, Centennial, Amarillo, and Cascade).

 


“Fresh Squeezed,” as the name implies, is all about citrus, notably from the citra, nugget and mosaic hops. Mild malt notes from Pale, Crystal and Munich malts provide a nice accent. The beer comes in at 6% ABV and 60 IBU. Refreshingly lively for summer sipping, it finishes with an uplifting bitterness.

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FOOD & WINE MAGAZINE BRINGS THE WORLD OF WINE TO ASPEN

While the cooking demonstrations and wine seminars are the foundation of the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, another hallmark of the Classic is all the receptions, parties, and other special events. This year was no exception. I had so many invitations, I just couldn’t make them all … and believe me I tried.

 

But I still had many opportunities to discover new wines and meet new winemakers. For me, one of the best things about the Classic is the opportunity it presents to meet winemakers and winery owners and to taste wines from producers whom I seldom or never get a chance to try.

For instance, I had a chance to sit down with Michael Martini, the third generation winemaker for the Louis M. Martini Winery in the Napa Valley. Michael, who has been the winemaker for this family (a family that has an over 100 year old history of winemaking in California) since 1977, was anxious to tell me about (and have me taste) his wines. Mariola Varona Bayola, the Export Manager for Bodegas Martin Codax, also joined us. Martín Códax is a 27 year old Spanish winery that is best known for its Albariño. Confused that representatives of a California winery and a Spanish winery both were at this meeting? Don’t be, both are now owned by the Gallo family. And both were delightful lunch companions. And their wines – Martini Cabs and Codax Albariño – were equally enjoyable.

 

It was a treat to be able to attend a reserve tasting moderated by Master Sommelier Richard Betts on “The Extraordinary Wines of California’s Sine Qua Non.” Now, if you have never heard of Sine Qua Non, don’t worry. That just means you are not a wine geek. Sine Qua Non is a “cult wine” among the cult wines. You can only buy them if you first get on their mailing list and then wait only God knows how long to get in. Maybe you can find one on a restaurant wine list but it probably will cost hundreds of dollars. This is what is special about these reserve tasting’s. They offer rare opportunities to taste equally rare and extraordinary wines.

All of the wines we tasted reflected differing blends of various Rhone varietals – the reds presented different expressions of syrah and grenache, while the whites showed off combinations of roussanne, viognier, and chardonnay. My key take away from the tasting is that the wines definitely lived up to their hype. First and foremost, all six wines showed off beautiful fruit. The use of oak showed in balance with the depth of fruit and acidity.

 

It’s a ritual every year to wander the Grand Tasting Tent, where producers from all over the world display their wares, in the hopes of making new discoveries. As with previous years, I ended up on a sort of world tour. I don’t have room to list all the wines tasted but here are a few highlights.

Although Australia is best known for many great Shiraz, I’m glad I was persuaded to take the road less traveled and try some really outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. From Penley Estate, a highly regarded winery in the Coonawarra region of South Australia, I enjoyed the “Phoenix” and Reserve Cabs and chatting with Proprietor/Chief Winemaker Kym Tolley. From the Yarra Valley region of Victoria, I really was impressed with Pinot Noirs from Giant Steps and Innocent Bystander, partly because one usually doesn’t think of great Pinot Noir from Australia but also because Owner/Winemaker Phil Sexton was pouring and explaining the wines. Before leaving Australia, I found one more wine I also highly recommend: the Vasse Felix “Heytesbury” Cabernet Sauvignon from the Margaret river region of Southwestern Australia.

 

Representing Portugal, the Esporão Assobio, which is made predominantly from touriga nacional, tinta roriz and touriga franca grapes, is a distinguished single vineyard red worthy of any serious wine drinker. If you think the only Portugal wine worth drinking is Port (and Port is great stuff), think again. There is a lot of great Portuguese dry table wine and Assobio is one of the best.

 

Wines from Spain for many years has hosted a whole tent as a separate location within the Grand Tasting park and it is always a great place to hunt for new wines. This year I was especially impressed with the wines at the “Drink Ribera” (that’s Ribera del Duero, one of Spain’s most important regions). My favorites were the Bodegas Montecastro, from high altitude vineyards, and Alejandro Fernandez Tinto Pesquera, from a pioneer of modern Spanish wine. Both are excellent representations of tempranillo, Spain’s most distinguished grape.

 

I finished my tour in the tent tasting several California wines, with the highlights being the following, all really outstanding, wines:

 

  • 2011 Franciscan Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay
  • 2009 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
  • 2009 Simi Cabernet Sauvignon Landslide Vineyard
  • 2009 Franciscan Magnificat (Bordeaux-style blend)
  • 2009 Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
  • 2010 Ravenswood Zinfandel Belloni Vineyard

As for the receptions, the annual Wines from Spain/Jose Andres Spanish Barbecue was another stunner. Hosted at an amazing trophy home/mansion in the mountains above the Buttermilk ski area, there were again delectable grilled meats and shrimp, tasty charcuterie, and a wonderful array of cheeses. Of course, there also were some excellent wines. I was impressed enough with three wines – Bodegas Roda Rioja  “Roda 1,” Bodegas Muga Rioja “Torre Muga,” and Bodegas Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero “C21 Malabrigo” – to actually write them down amid all the happy chaos.

But I was especially impressed this year with the reception for the “Chef’s Club by Food & Wine” restaurant. This is a special restaurant within the St. Regis hotel that features a rotating lineup of Food & Wine Best New Chefs doing the cooking. What was really cool was the collection of fine Colorado artisan producers presenting their creations in the courtyard. Kudos to Continental Sausage (Denver), Licious Organics (Boulder), Linger restaurant (Denver), Quixotic Tilapia Farm (Canon City), Magpies (Eagle), Aero Farm (Lakewood), Outrageous Gluten-Free Baking (Denver), Jumpin’ Good Goat Dairy (Buena Vista), Etalia Gluten-Free Breads (Boulder), Raquelitas Tortillas (Denver), and

Esoteric Foods “Zuke” Pickled Products (Boulder).

 

Needless to say, it was another year of discovery at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. I already can’t wait for next year.

 

 

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WARREN WINIARSKI AND THE COMING OF AGE OF AMERICAN WINE

Courtesy University of Chicago

It is fitting that Warren Winiarski would have a prominent role in the Smithsonian National Museum of American History’s exhibit FOOD: Transforming the American Table, 1950-2000. The exhibit includes a display illustrating the transformation that occurred in the American wine industry in the second half of the twentieth century, particularly how wine has come to be appreciated as an important aspect of our food culture. Mr. Winiarski has played a pivotal role in that transformation.

 

But it was a rather atypical journey for him to get to that point. When I interviewed him recently, I was surprised to find out he originally wanted to be a forester and enrolled at Colorado A&M (now Colorado State University) but only stayed eight months. He then went to St. John’s College in Annapolis, MD to, as he told me, “read the great books.” Then, he went to the University of Chicago to study political science and theory, which I thought was especially cool, since I have a Master’s Degree in Political Science.

 

This next part, though, is more typical. Warren told me it was a year of graduate study in Italy that introduced him to “la dolce vita” that changed him. It was in Italy where he began to understand wine as a daily beverage, not just an occasional celebratory drink. He also said he was inspired by a 1933 book (”American Wines and How to Make Them”) by Philip Wagner, the founder of Boordy Vineyards in Maryland, who Winiarski said believed Americans could make better wine than they were. And he acknowledged influence from Martin Ray, another legend of California wine, for his strong belief in varietal wines before that was fashionable.

 

Courtesy cask23.com

He moved with his family from Chicago to Napa Valley in 1964 to pursue a life in wine, rather than academia. He worked at the Souverain and Mondavi wineries before consulting for other companies. In 1970 he bought property next door to Nathan Fay’s vineyard (which he later acquired) and established Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars. Like many others at the time, he also benefitted from consultation with the great winemaker André Tchelistcheff.

 

But it seems Mr. Winiarski learned from the master a little better than most. Warren went on to produce one of the most iconic (I know that word is overused but it applies in this case.) wines in California history. In 1976, at “The Judgment of Paris,” wine merchant Stephen Spurrier’s tasting of twelve California and eight French wines (ten Cabernets and ten Chardonnays), Warren’s 1973 Stag’s Leap Vineyard Cabernet (just his first vintage!) Sauvignon won first place.

 

Courtesy cask23.com

I have to admit I was surprised how humbly Mr. Winiarski described his reaction.  “Initially, I just thought it was nice to win a wine tasting, until I found out the other wines in the tasting. And then George Tabor’s article in Time brought it to the attention of the world. The significance and impact of the tasting grew over time. Regions all over the world realized they could make wine just as good as France. It opened opportunities; gave people courage.”

 

Naturally, the Smithsonian eventually took interest. He contributed a bottle of the wine to the museum’s collection and the museum maintains a Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars archive. “They came out to Napa and produced a film at SLV and then asked me to speak at the ‘Red, White and American’ [symposium on Wine in American History and Culture, in 1996],” he said. Mr. Winiarski also told me his family’s foundation helped with the FOOD project early on.

 

I asked him what he thought was the significance of the exhibit and specifically wine being included? Mr. Winiarski said “the exhibit is more than the typical museum piece; it shows people what they take for granted. It broadens the category of food to include wine.”

 

Courtesy cask23.com

When I suggested the FOOD exhibit illustrates how there has been a similar influence of technology and corporate consolidation in wine as in food production, Mr. Winiarski acknowledged this adding, “There are parallel forces – science, technology and culture; they are inseparable.” He said technology can make for better quality and simplify processes but agreed it is also important to retain the lessons of tradition.

 

He pointed out since 1950, “Wine changed from being mostly fortified [sweet and high alcohol] to drier table wine. There is more interest in learning about wine, its origins and places, and more books about wine. We even are seeing changes in traditional places like Portugal.”

 

I agreed technology and industrialization (fueled by corporate consolidation) have had the benefit of broadening access to wine and often with good quality. But, I asserted, quality often has been sacrificed for quantity. Mr. Winiarski responded by pointing to an example: “Paul Masson was practically a saint for his dedication to pinot noir but when corporate owners took over, they used his name to increase sales but weren’t aware what it took to make fine wine at that volume.”

 

He emphasized there is room in the wine industry for both. But he pointed out the industry is cyclical, so small and new wineries often find it difficult to survive the down cycles. “It would be good if we could even out the cycles, so what’s good doesn’t disappear. We need to make more room for the innovators, visionaries and young people.”

 

This seems to me a fitting sentiment for the next fifty years of American wine. We have seen parallel developments in recent years, with many new startups, smaller, family-owned wineries, and wineries in every state at the same time there has been significant corporate consolidation (even Winiarski sold to Piero Antinori and Ste. Michelle Wine Estates in 2007). The industry also has seen more and more winemakers and wineries look to more “sustainable” winemaking practices and business models. And as a fundamentally agricultural endeavor, winegrowers and winemakers will be at the leading edge of climate change impacts. These are just a few of the elements that could spur another “Great Transformation” in American wine. I can’t wait to drink the results.

 

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SMITHSONIAN CHRONICLES TRANSFORMATION OF AMERICAN FOOD & WINE

Volumes have been written about the transformations that occurred in American society in the last half of the Twentieth Century. Certainly, no arena of American society has seen more change since the end of World War II than that of food production and consumption.

 

A new exhibit, “Food: Transforming the American Table,” which opened at the Smithsonian National Museum of American History last November, really brings these changes to life in a unique and effective way. I had a chance to view the exhibit recently and heartily recommend you visit it, too.

Fourteen years in the making, co-curator of the exhibit, Paula Johnson told me this first major Smithsonian exhibition on food history is intended to illuminate the transformation of how food is produced, how we eat, and what we eat. Ms. Johnson also wanted to make sure I noted she made a conscious decision to include a section on wine in recognition of its growing significance in American food culture and the increasing acceptance of its place at the American table. I will touch on this later in this column and will go into greater detail about the wine section, including my subsequent interview with winemaker Warren Winiarski (a critical figure in American wine history), in a future article.

Courtesy of Smithsonian

The exhibit employs a variety of displays to illustrate the post-war changes. It begins with “Julia’s Kitchen.” This literally is the kitchen from Julia Child’s Cambridge, MA home with original table, appliances, and utensils. It was quite remarkable to peer through the glass and witness this iconic space.

Courtesy of Smithsonian

“New and Improved” – a display highlighting the introduction of various new scientific approaches to farming, processing and distribution – recalls various developments in what I would call the industrialization of food. Even as science and technology (most notably in the form of chemical fertilizers and pesticides) produced higher yields, more certainty and lower costs in the fields, new appliances and access to more energy changed the way people prepared meals.

 Viewing the display, I also got a sense of how all this intersected with the American myth of “progress” and how advertising slogans like “better living through chemistry” were deployed in an industry offensive to convince the American people (who had just survived the Great Depression and World War II) the changes would always make life better. Of course, it wasn’t all good news. A section of the display titled “A System for Abundance” tells a story of the difficult, dangerous lives of the workers in the field.

Courtesy of Smithsonian

Curator Johnson aptly characterized “Resetting the Table” as illustrating the complementary and contradictory trends of the time – showing how immigrants, activists, and global travelers all challenged what had become convention. The display first takes a look at the rise of ethnic food and its connection to the country’s history as a nation of immigrants. To me it illustrates an insight into how immigrants adapted to their new environment and how those of us already here have benefited from a broadening of our exposure to previously unfamiliar foods, cultures and people.

 

This section also chronicles the rise of alternative visions of American food culture that emerged in the 1960’s and 1970’s – often associated with what has been labeled the “counterculture” and “back-to-the-land” movements – and focused on small scale, organic production. Being reminded of the “Do It Yourself” advice of Mother Earth News it becomes clear these alternatives were (and are) not anti-science, as often has been charged. Rather, they reflected a different approach to science – one that used new discoveries to assist nature, not subjugate or appropriate it. And viewing copies of fondly remembered books like Dick Gregory’s Natural Diet for Folks Who Eat and the Moosewood Cookbook I realized also these were a call to recover an appreciation of quality, an assertion that food can taste good and be good for you.

While millions of Americans were embracing the new culture of convenience and abundance, these alternative voices drew attention to the trade offs and the long-term effects of mass production (industrial, large-scale, centralized) and mass consumption (consumerism, planned obsolescence, disposable): impacts on the environment, individual health and workers.

Courtesy of Smithsonian

This period also was a time of great transformation in wine. The “Wine for the Table” section calls attention to the complicated relationship this country has had with alcohol – specifically, in this case, fermented grape juice. Much has been made over the years of Thomas Jefferson’s affinity for wine; and even more has been written about the origins and legacy (and reality) of Prohibition.

 

Most people today still probably don’t realize wine grapes have been cultivated since the 1700’s on the East Coast; and probably only a few more realize the boom in California winegrowing that began about the mid-1800’s. Not surprisingly, in 1950, wine was mostly an afterthought for most Americans. Julia Child deserves credit here as well for introducing to the public the European tradition of drinking wine with food.


Then, in the 1960’s and 1970’s, a group of truly visionary California winemakers (many of whom benefited from consultation with the great winemaker André Tchelistcheff) transformed the industry, not only in California but – with a little help from the famous “Paris Tasting of 1976” – throughout the U.S. and really, over the following decades, the whole world.

 

The exhibit highlights contributions from now icons of the California wine industry, such as Robert Mondavi, who left his family’s winery to start his own winery and became arguably the greatest ambassador of California wine. And Miljenko “Mike” Grgich at Chateau Montelina and Warren Winiarski at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars – the winners of the 1976 tasting – are well represented. These and others, of course, emulated French winemaking practices like using small oak barrels, along with what I’ll call modern winemaking techniques like using stainless steel tanks and temperature-controlled fermentation to vastly increase quality.

Display highlighting heritage of California Zinfandel

Actually, the transformation of wine after 1950 reflects many of the same forces as with food – the intersection of agriculture with business with marketing with culture. At the same time as these smaller producers were showing the world California could match European quality, large-scale wine production (most notably the Gallo family – shown on the cover of a 1972 issue of Time) emerged to introduce wine to the American public in a volume and at a price most could enjoy on a daily basis.

 

Over the last two decades especially, there has been a growing interest in organic and other forms of sustainable agricultural and cellar practices. Sometimes it seems like every winery large and small is touting its efforts in this regard. The key here, as Mr. Winiarski pointed out to me, seems to be to find ways to harness science, technology and cultural forces, while retaining the lessons of tradition.

Courtesy of Smithsonian

Finally, in what I think was a brilliant idea, they have included what they call the “Open Table” in the middle of the exhibit.  It is a place where “(v)isitors will have the opportunity to take a seat at a large, communal table and engage in conversation about a wide range of food-related issues and topics.” Here, the museum is inviting visitors to go beyond just being passive viewers of the exhibition. They are saying eating food and drinking wine are essentially social, convivial activities (not to mention economic and political activities). Visitors are encouraged to discuss the themes of the exhibit and even examine how this history has influenced each of our own eating and drinking choices.

 

As I have pondered this fascinating exhibit, it has occurred to me the unwritten theme could be “Back to the Future.” The natural food movement that began in the 1960’s has evolved and grown parallel to the growth of industrial food and the current renewed emphasis on local, small scale production grows in significance alongside the “Big Ag” of multinational corporations that for their part still dominate.

 

The 2000’s especially have seen a renewed commitment to authentic food and wine, with more emphasis on organic, local and small-scale production. The battles between these often opposing forces are heating up over the food world’s role in climate change and the pros and cons of GMOs. We even may be in the midst of another period of transformation. Maybe the Smithsonian should consider making the exhibit permanent and plan to add more years.

 

The exhibit will run indefinitely, and more information can be found at http://americanhistory.si.edu or by calling the public line at (202) 633-1000.

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SUMMER SEASONALS BREWING UP FRESH BEER DRINKING

Craft breweries everywhere have been releasing their summer brews. Typically lighter and fresher, these seasonals are designed to go down easy.

 

Deschutes Twilight Summer Ale

 

This summer seasonal from Deschutes offers an aroma of fresh wheaty,  malty notes, which are reprised in a firm palate and a crisp, slightly hoppy finish.

Nicely balanced malt and hop qualities, with 35 IBUs.

Not too heavy, not too light, its 5 percent alcohol is just right for warm weather sipping.

Twilight Summer Ale is available from May to September.

 

Ska Mexican Style Logger

 

Ska Brewing’s Mexican Style Logger is another seasonal and, of course, this one is really a lager. Ska Brewing is an18 year-old brewery based in Durango, Colorado making around 13 well-regarded brews. This one is all about fresh grain and sweet malt. At 18 IBU, I don’t get much hoppy character but I don’t think that’s the point anyway. Coming in at 4.2 percent ABV, Logger closes with a clean, crisp finish. Mexican Logger is available in cans through September.

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A QUICK TRIP TO SPAIN

When I first got interested in wine (way too long ago to admit) Spanish wine basically was a go-to choice for good values for every day drinking. Even the storied Rioja seemed an afterthought in discussions of the world’s finest wines. That seemed largely true even twenty years ago, when I first started writing about wine.

 

Well, that’s so Twentieth Century. Today, Spanish wines must be included in any serious discussion of the world’s finest wines but what’s really cool is there still are plenty of great everyday values.

 

In the fine wine category, I include two recently tasted wines from two highly respected producers. Bodegas RODA was founded in the late 1980s by Maria Rottlant and Carmen Dauvella. This is a thoroughly modern winery making thoroughly modern wines but wines that pay tribute to the centuries old traditions of the Rioja. Each vintage, the seventeen best vineyards (all vines are 30-100 years old) are selected to ferment separately and then three blends are fashioned to express different styles of tempranillo, Spain’s signature red grape.

 

The 2006 RODA Reserva ($45) is 100 percent tempranillo aged in French oak of which half is new. It shows textbook red berry fruit character, though maybe a bit sweet. That is offset with toasty, earthy, smoky notes and fresh acidity. It finishes with elegant, supple tannins.

 


In nearby Toro, we find more evidence of the modern winemaking renaissance in Spain and Bodegas Farina is one of the leaders, which is interesting in that it also is one of the oldest family wineries in the region, founded in 1942. It wasn’t long ago Toro was virtually unknown outside of Spain.Not so today and wines like the 2006 Gran Dama de Toro ($45) are the reasons why. The wine is full-bodied and intense. It opens with aromas of oak, black fruits, bacon, and toast. It is packed with dense blackberry, cherry, and plum fruit accented with an herbal touch. Highly structured with strong tannins, it finishes surprisingly harmonious.As I mentioned, there are still countless good value, everyday wines from Spain. I found several in my tasting. 

Another region that has witnessed revitalization is the home of the “Man of La Mancha.” While this area is believed to be the largest single winegrowing region in the world, with most of the vineyard land given over to growing grapes for brandy or bulk wine, a number of entrepreneurs have embarked on a seemingly Quixotic quest to grow fine premium table wines. One such winery is Finca Constancia, near Toledo in the La Mancha region of Central Spain southwest of Madrid. It is owned by González Byass, a leading producer (founded in 1835 and still family owned and managed) of Spanish wines, Sherries and liqueurs, with the most notable brand being Tio Pepe. Finca Constancia was created as a single estate property to produce single parcel wines similar to the principles of Bordeaux.

 

The vineyard is planted to numerous international varietals (cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cabernet franc, petit verdot, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay) but also many indigenous varietals (tempranillo, graciano, verdejo and garnacha. With the designation “Vino de la Tierra de Castilla,” the wines below are built upon both new plantings and existing vineyards and take advantage of the more flexible production techniques under the Denomination of Origin laws.

 

  • Finca Constancia Red Blend ($15). A blend of syrah, cabernet franc and garnacha; herbal notes compliment cherry fruit and spice; soft feel but lifted with crisp acidity.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 23 ($20). 100 percent tempranillo, single vineyard; deep, dark fruit, light spice; though a little thin in the middle, it’s concentrated, fresh dark berries and woodsy spices please.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 52 ($20). A 100 percent verdejo, single vineyard white wine ringer; quite aromatic, light and fresh, with brisk limejuice accented with green herb notes and a lively spritz.
  •  2010 Altos de la Finca ($35). From the highest vineyards on the estate, this creative blend of petite verdot and syrah for the extra money adds admirable intensity with deep black fruits, dusty oaky notes followed by a nicely dry finish.
I was quite pleased to find several values from Rioja, the most famous Spanish wine growing region in the southern part of the Basque country. First up are two from Bodegas Bilbainas, which was founded in 1859 and today is the largest estate in the Rioja Alta and fourth largest in all of Rioja.

 

The 2009 Vina Pomal ($12) takes its name from a 108-year-old vineyard, though the grapes are from 10- to 20-year-old vines. It is a fairly traditional Rioja of 100 percent Tempranillo (interestingly aged in 90% American oak). It is designated a Crianza, meaning it has been aged a minimum of one year, with six months in barrel. I liked the earthy red fruits of this straightforward but tasty wine, with its lively palate and lively mouthfeel.

 

Another vineyard lends its name to the 2011 Vina Zaco ($15). Also 100 percent Tempranillo from 10- to 20-year-old vines, it is best understood as a new style Rioja. And it’s an excellent style. Aged equally in American and French oak, it opens with bright cherry and raspberry. The palate has good weight and depth. It is quite full and flavorful, with a juicy finish and aftertaste.

The ancestors of the Bodegas Miguel Ángel Muro have been making wine since 1892 and growing wine grapes even longer. Miguel’s 2008 “Muro Bujanda” Rioja Crianza ($14) is just a fantastic value. Bright cherry and red currant aromas join roasted and lightly creamy notes. Similar flavor profile marks the intense fruit and touches of spice.

 

Founded over a century ago in the Rioja Alavesa by the grandfather of the current owner, Ruiz de Vinaspro makes wines from vines that range from 40-100 years of age. The 2007 Ruiz de Vinaspro Rioja ($15) is 100 percent tempranillo. It sports toasty blueberry and blackberry fruit. The palate is very dry mixing fresh tannins and woodsy herbs with lively wild berry fruit. A little closed at first, it opens up nicely with time.

 

Finally, just in time for summer, the 2010 Bodegas Sumarroca “Temps Flors” ($14) if a delightful, refreshing wine. Sumarroca is located in the Penedes region of Catalonia near Barcelona. The name translates to “time of the flowers” and the unique blend of xarel-lo Muscat and gewürztraminer mirrors that expression in the wine’s aroma (though it’s actually named after a local flower festival). This fruity, off-dry wine sports appealing fruity notes of lychee and tropical fruits balanced with good fruit intensity, perfect for quaffin