Tag: aspen

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FOOD & WINE MAGAZINE BRINGS THE WORLD OF WINE TO ASPEN

While the cooking demonstrations and wine seminars are the foundation of the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, another hallmark of the Classic is all the receptions, parties, and other special events. This year was no exception. I had so many invitations, I just couldn’t make them all … and believe me I tried.

 

But I still had many opportunities to discover new wines and meet new winemakers. For me, one of the best things about the Classic is the opportunity it presents to meet winemakers and winery owners and to taste wines from producers whom I seldom or never get a chance to try.

For instance, I had a chance to sit down with Michael Martini, the third generation winemaker for the Louis M. Martini Winery in the Napa Valley. Michael, who has been the winemaker for this family (a family that has an over 100 year old history of winemaking in California) since 1977, was anxious to tell me about (and have me taste) his wines. Mariola Varona Bayola, the Export Manager for Bodegas Martin Codax, also joined us. Martín Códax is a 27 year old Spanish winery that is best known for its Albariño. Confused that representatives of a California winery and a Spanish winery both were at this meeting? Don’t be, both are now owned by the Gallo family. And both were delightful lunch companions. And their wines – Martini Cabs and Codax Albariño – were equally enjoyable.

 

It was a treat to be able to attend a reserve tasting moderated by Master Sommelier Richard Betts on “The Extraordinary Wines of California’s Sine Qua Non.” Now, if you have never heard of Sine Qua Non, don’t worry. That just means you are not a wine geek. Sine Qua Non is a “cult wine” among the cult wines. You can only buy them if you first get on their mailing list and then wait only God knows how long to get in. Maybe you can find one on a restaurant wine list but it probably will cost hundreds of dollars. This is what is special about these reserve tasting’s. They offer rare opportunities to taste equally rare and extraordinary wines.

All of the wines we tasted reflected differing blends of various Rhone varietals – the reds presented different expressions of syrah and grenache, while the whites showed off combinations of roussanne, viognier, and chardonnay. My key take away from the tasting is that the wines definitely lived up to their hype. First and foremost, all six wines showed off beautiful fruit. The use of oak showed in balance with the depth of fruit and acidity.

 

It’s a ritual every year to wander the Grand Tasting Tent, where producers from all over the world display their wares, in the hopes of making new discoveries. As with previous years, I ended up on a sort of world tour. I don’t have room to list all the wines tasted but here are a few highlights.

Although Australia is best known for many great Shiraz, I’m glad I was persuaded to take the road less traveled and try some really outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. From Penley Estate, a highly regarded winery in the Coonawarra region of South Australia, I enjoyed the “Phoenix” and Reserve Cabs and chatting with Proprietor/Chief Winemaker Kym Tolley. From the Yarra Valley region of Victoria, I really was impressed with Pinot Noirs from Giant Steps and Innocent Bystander, partly because one usually doesn’t think of great Pinot Noir from Australia but also because Owner/Winemaker Phil Sexton was pouring and explaining the wines. Before leaving Australia, I found one more wine I also highly recommend: the Vasse Felix “Heytesbury” Cabernet Sauvignon from the Margaret river region of Southwestern Australia.

 

Representing Portugal, the Esporão Assobio, which is made predominantly from touriga nacional, tinta roriz and touriga franca grapes, is a distinguished single vineyard red worthy of any serious wine drinker. If you think the only Portugal wine worth drinking is Port (and Port is great stuff), think again. There is a lot of great Portuguese dry table wine and Assobio is one of the best.

 

Wines from Spain for many years has hosted a whole tent as a separate location within the Grand Tasting park and it is always a great place to hunt for new wines. This year I was especially impressed with the wines at the “Drink Ribera” (that’s Ribera del Duero, one of Spain’s most important regions). My favorites were the Bodegas Montecastro, from high altitude vineyards, and Alejandro Fernandez Tinto Pesquera, from a pioneer of modern Spanish wine. Both are excellent representations of tempranillo, Spain’s most distinguished grape.

 

I finished my tour in the tent tasting several California wines, with the highlights being the following, all really outstanding, wines:

 

  • 2011 Franciscan Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay
  • 2009 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
  • 2009 Simi Cabernet Sauvignon Landslide Vineyard
  • 2009 Franciscan Magnificat (Bordeaux-style blend)
  • 2009 Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
  • 2010 Ravenswood Zinfandel Belloni Vineyard

As for the receptions, the annual Wines from Spain/Jose Andres Spanish Barbecue was another stunner. Hosted at an amazing trophy home/mansion in the mountains above the Buttermilk ski area, there were again delectable grilled meats and shrimp, tasty charcuterie, and a wonderful array of cheeses. Of course, there also were some excellent wines. I was impressed enough with three wines – Bodegas Roda Rioja  “Roda 1,” Bodegas Muga Rioja “Torre Muga,” and Bodegas Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero “C21 Malabrigo” – to actually write them down amid all the happy chaos.

But I was especially impressed this year with the reception for the “Chef’s Club by Food & Wine” restaurant. This is a special restaurant within the St. Regis hotel that features a rotating lineup of Food & Wine Best New Chefs doing the cooking. What was really cool was the collection of fine Colorado artisan producers presenting their creations in the courtyard. Kudos to Continental Sausage (Denver), Licious Organics (Boulder), Linger restaurant (Denver), Quixotic Tilapia Farm (Canon City), Magpies (Eagle), Aero Farm (Lakewood), Outrageous Gluten-Free Baking (Denver), Jumpin’ Good Goat Dairy (Buena Vista), Etalia Gluten-Free Breads (Boulder), Raquelitas Tortillas (Denver), and

Esoteric Foods “Zuke” Pickled Products (Boulder).

 

Needless to say, it was another year of discovery at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. I already can’t wait for next year.

 

 

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J.L. Chave Seminar Demonstrates Greatness in Wine

One of the most common, thought-provoking, and debated questions in wine is “What makes a wine great?” In my experience writing about wine and attending countless seminars and tastings over the past fifteen years, this question is almost always looming. Sometimes it is the specific topic of discussion; other times it is the basic question underlying the stated topic.

This was the case recently at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen when I attended a Reserve Tasting called “The Rhone’s Singular Best: J.L. Chave.” I was sitting in a tent next to the Gondola at the base of Aspen Mountain. Almost filled with 100+ people, most of whom (not me) paid $250 to be there. Before us were eight glasses containing only about one-two ounces of wine each.

Staring at all those samples within inches of my mouth, my anticipation (which had been building since I was offered the opportunity to sign up for one Reserve Tasting and knew immediately the one I wanted) almost overflowed. Looking down at us (literally, not metaphorically, from the raised stage) were sommeliers Richard Betts, Robert Bohr, and Bobby Stuckey, F &W’s Ray Isle, and winemaker Jean-Louis Chave.

With Chave, making great wine has been a family heritage in Hermitage since 1481. Still, the 41 year-old Jean-Louis told us, “The vineyard is more important than who is making the wine. The vineyard was here before us and it will be here after us.”  So, great wine begins with the earth, in this case the Northern Rhone, specifically Hermitage. At a total of just over 300 acres, this tiny region is not much bigger than most Bordeaux chateau and is smaller than many California wineries. Production of the red wine (syrah grape) is similarly tiny, while that of the white wine (blend of marsanne/roussanne) is downright miniscule. Chave makes a total of less than 4000 cases.

The vineyards of Hermitage are on a granite hill above a curve in the Rhone River with low-yielding soils that also contain sandy gravel, flint, limestone and chalk. Importantly, they are on the left bank and are south facing (“because the vines look for the sun,” says Chave). Although it can get warm, he said the climate generally is cooler, more like Burgundy than Provence, more Continental than Mediterranean.

Next to great terroir, I have found it always increases one’s chances of getting a great wine if you choose a great producer – one with a track record of quality like Chave. As Richard Betts noted, the Chaves also have a reputation of producing excellent wine even in a subpar vintage, such as 2004 (the red in our tasting illustrated this point).  Jean Louis and his father Gerard are committed to producing wine in the traditional way but not just for the sake of tradition. They know modern technology can produce clean, clear, stable wines but those wines are all too often bland, simple and without character. Chave wines are produced naturally without chemicals or machines in the vineyards and with minimal intervention in the cellar.

When nature cooperates to produce perfectly ripe raw materials, the role of winemaker is to make sure the true character of the grapes, the vineyard where they originated, and the characteristics of the vintage are translated in the final wine. As Chave explained, each year they try to answer the question, “What is Hermitage.”  And after listening to Jean-Louis’ comments, Robert Bohr was moved to remark that he is more of a philosopher than someone just trying to sell wine.

With the Chave approach to winemaking, blending skills are critical. Jean-Louis explained the élevage, or upbringing, of his wines, where they vinify the grapes from each parcel they own separately. Then, when each site is fully expressed in these wines, they “blend the terroirs” so the final wine is the best expression of Hermitage.  I found it revealing when he pointed out that they never talk about syrah, just the vineyards. As Jean-Louis put it, “the grape is just a vector for the soil to express itself in the wine.” But the truth is, as Bobby Stuckey asserted, syrah does well in many places but nowhere is it like this.” And as Stuckey declared, “There is no makeup on these wines.”

In the hands of the Chave family, the Hermitage terroir yields both red and white wines that at their best are powerful, yet elegant; well structured, yet generous; concentrated, yet harmonious; and long-lived. Both also often exhibit savory elements and fennel/anise/ licorice notes. They also are expensive, with the white priced around $200 and the red about $250 … a bottle!

The whites in our tasting also showed distinctive honey, apricot, and tropical fruit, and lush, viscous textures. The 2007 added grains and a hint of chalk. The 2003 was more woodsy, with forest notes. The 2000 showed the potential for development of these wines, with nut, caramel and roasted grain notes but still very fresh and ripe fruit.  The reds delivered high-toned red and black berry fruit, with fennel, white (?) pepper, and meat. The 2007 added eucalyptus. The 2004 was a little brooding, with cured meat and darker fruit. The 2001 showed development of an earthy quality and velvety texture but was still quite tannic, with plenty of ripe fruit.

Tasting these wines, I realized another key to their greatness is balance. There is amazing complexity but no component is in excess. Rather, all the components are seamlessly integrated.  Although powerful and concentrated, they are well proportioned and complex. They reflect the winemakers’ skill and philosophy but also the vintage and terroir. They are an expression of their origin – the region, people and culture of Hermitage. This is their greatness.

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Highlights from the Food and Wine Classic in Aspen

Check out some of my pics from the event.  Click here!

Once again, the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen (the 28th) provided numerous prime opportunities to meet winemakers

and winery owners and to discover new wines. While there always are discoveries to be made in the Grand Tasting Tent and enlightenment to be gained from the seminars, this year I especially enjoyed the special events that typically surround the main program.

As always, the Classic kicked off Thursday evening with the Welcome Reception, hosted again by Trinchero Family Estates. It’s always fun for people watching and celebrity sighting and, of course, for a chance to say “hi” to Gabby and

Mark. As for the wines, Amador County Zinfandels from Terra d’Oro and a Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc from Joel Gott (Napa winemaker and owner of Taylor’s Refresher gourmet burger joints) were particular standouts. The Gott wines showed good varietal fruit, while the Terra d’Oro wines were typically hearty and intense.

Next, Wines from Spain sponsored a Spanish-style barbecue at an amazing Aspen home that was hosted by acclaimed chef Jose Andres. So, of course, we got another chance to see Gabby and Mark. Wonderful Spanish cheeses, tapas and even a roast pig were accompanied by a half dozen crisp, Albarinos from Rias Baixa and several flavorful, tempranillo-

based reds from Ribera del Duero. My favorite reds were 2006 Emina, 2004 Protos Reserva, and 2004 Pago de los Capellanes. Spain has had a strong presence at the Classic for many years, both through seminars and The Spanish Tent, which featured many great wines too numerous to cover here.

Thursday night’s dinner at Jimmy’s was hosted by Ferrer Wine Estates and featured several sparklers from their extensive

line of Cava. It is, after all, the success of Freixenet Cava that made the Ferrer family fortune. The workhorse Feixenet Cordon Negro Brut and the Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad (love that pewter trimmed bottle) were solid appetizers, while the new Elyssia ultra premium Cava from Feixenet (Gran Cuvee Brut and Pinot Noir Brut) showed themselves as good additions to the portfolio. We also were treated to bubbly from the family’s Gloria Ferrer California operation. The new “Va di Vi” was full of fruit and I couldn’t help but take second and third helpings of the tête de cuvee 1999 Carneros Cuvee.
Friday lunch was all about beer, or I should say bière. “Tails and Ales: Where Belgian Beers meet Louisiana Crawfish” hosted by Stella Artois provided a distinctive and actually welcome respite from hours of wine tasting. Hosted by Chef John Besh (his Besh Restaurant Group owns six restaurants in southern Louisiana) and Master Beer Sommelier Marc

Stroobandt, we were treated to six courses featuring differing preparations of crawfish! As good as they all were, I was quite relieved dessert came sans tails. As for the beers, it was fun to experiment with matching the different styles – Stella Artois (light, crisp European Pilsner), Hoegaarden (citrusy, malty unfiltered Belgian white) and Leffe Blonde (spicy, malty Belgian Abbey Ale) – with each dish.

And Friday night? Three more parties! The night began with Banfi Vintners, “Five Great Chefs & Stellar Wines” party at the Grand Aspen. I especially enjoyed Banfi’s new wine called Belnero (Tuscan sangiovese), Emiliana’s Coyam (a

biodynamic Argentinean blend of mostly syrah, cabernet sauvignon, carmenere, and merlot), and Banfi Rosa Regale (a delightful Brachetto d’Acqui that paired beautifully with Jacques Torres handmade chocolate).

Then it was off to the Aspen Art Gallery to “cleanse” my palate with The Macallan Scotch, specifically the Fine Oak line of single malt scotches. For the Scotch drinker, you can’t do much better than the highly praised 12, 18, 21, and 30 Years Old

Fine Oak Single Malt Scotches. The Fine Oak Scotches are matured in European and American casks that previously held Sherry or bourbon. I found this produced an amazingly elegant, complex whiskey suggestive of dried fruit in the nose and vanilla, almond and honey in the mouth.

After that, it was back to the Hyatt for Old Bridge Cellars’ “Infamous Aussie Winemaker” party. The festivities were hosted by Chester Osborn (Fourth Generation Winemaker of d’Arenberg Winery, John Duvall (Founder/Winemaker John Duvall

Wines and former Winemaker for Penfolds Grange), and Nathan Waks (Proprietor/Managing Director of Killikanoon). It was a real privilege to be able to engage in casual conversation with these icons of Australian wine. And there wines didn’t disappoint. There was an amazing array of fantastic juice to be had. Just a few of the ones that stood out to me included Duval’s Plexus (GSM), Entity (old vine shiraz), and Eligo (the flagship shiraz); Killikanoon’s Prodigal (Grenache), Killerman’s Run (shiraz-grenache), Oracle (shiraz), and Black’s Road (cabernet sauvignon); and last but certainly not least d’Arenberg’s Mourvedre, Ironstone Pressings (GSM), Magpie (shiraz viognier), and The Dead Arm

(shiraz).

The climax of the event Saturday night, of course, was the Best New Chefs Dinner. It was especially fun this year to see Denver’s Alex Seidel honored for his work at Fruition Restaurant. It was also a treat that the dinner featured wines from Beringer. The Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir showed well as usual, as did the Alluvium Blanc. But it was extra special to be able to drink a few of Beringer’s top-of-the-line wines: Bancroft Ranch Merlot, Private Reserve

Chardonnay and Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.

The real treat though was being able to celebrate Alex Seidel for his achievement in being recognized by Food & Wine as one of America’s Best New Chefs. I had a sought an interview with Alex and was glad I did. I’ve always appreciated the purity and impeccable simplicity of his food and the amicable attentiveness of Fruition’s staff. This clearly comes from Alex’s (and his partner Paul Atardi’s) commitment to quality. That commitment really came through in the interview. He

long has worked with local producers to source top quality ingredients and now has partnered to purchase a farm near Larkspur to help supply the restaurant. Two other elements came through in the interview that attest to Alex’s (and Fruition’s) current and future success: his focus on every situation as an opportunity to learn and improve and his relationship with his cooks and wait staff as one of a community all working together for the same purpose.

Finally, I very much enjoyed another interview opportunity with Bob Mosby, General Manager for Benovia. Bob is a retired psychologist who joined his friends Joe Anderson and Mary Dewane (who had purchased the Cohn vineyard in Sonoma’s Russian River Valley and supplied grapes to others for several years) in 2005, when they purchased a prime Pinot Noir vineyard (it had previously supplied Williams Selyem and Kosta Browne) with an existing winery and decided to produce their own wine. Importantly, Mike Sullivan, who had great success at Hartford Court before coming to Benovia, joined the project as co-owner and Winemaker. They now produce about 3000 cases of Pinot Noir (65%),

Chardonnay (25%) and Zinfandel (10%).

I sampled several 2008 wines: Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, La Pommeraie Vineyard Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, Cohn Vineyard Pinot Noir, Bella Una Pinot Noir, and La Pommeraie Vineyard Pinot Noir. Bob (and his charming wife Jeannie who had joined us) proved a delightful interview. And from the taste of the wines, I fully expect Benovia to

emerge as one of California’s top Pinot Noir and Chardonnay producers. And I can’t wait to try their Zinfandel someday. There were many more amazing experiences at the Classic but I think you get the idea. Once again, the Food & Wine brought an amazing world of food and wine to Aspen, combining education and pleasure in the magazine’s unique way.