One of the most common, thought-provoking, and debated questions in wine is “What makes a wine great?” In my experience writing about wine and attending countless seminars and tastings over the past fifteen years, this question is almost always looming. Sometimes it is the specific topic of discussion; other times it is the basic question underlying the stated topic.
This was the case recently at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen when I attended a Reserve Tasting called “The Rhone’s Singular Best: J.L. Chave.” I was sitting in a tent next to the Gondola at the base of Aspen Mountain. Almost filled with 100+ people, most of whom (not me) paid $250 to be there. Before us were eight glasses containing only about one-two ounces of wine each.
Staring at all those samples within inches of my mouth, my anticipation (which had been building since I was offered the opportunity to sign up for one Reserve Tasting and knew immediately the one I wanted) almost overflowed. Looking down at us (literally, not metaphorically, from the raised stage) were sommeliers Richard Betts, Robert Bohr, and Bobby Stuckey, F &W’s Ray Isle, and winemaker Jean-Louis Chave.
With Chave, making great wine has been a family heritage in Hermitage since 1481. Still, the 41 year-old Jean-Louis told us, “The vineyard is more important than who is making the wine. The vineyard was here before us and it will be here after us.” So, great wine begins with the earth, in this case the Northern Rhone, specifically Hermitage. At a total of just over 300 acres, this tiny region is not much bigger than most Bordeaux chateau and is smaller than many California wineries. Production of the red wine (syrah grape) is similarly tiny, while that of the white wine (blend of marsanne/roussanne) is downright miniscule. Chave makes a total of less than 4000 cases.
The vineyards of Hermitage are on a granite hill above a curve in the Rhone River with low-yielding soils that also contain sandy gravel, flint, limestone and chalk. Importantly, they are on the left bank and are south facing (“because the vines look for the sun,” says Chave). Although it can get warm, he said the climate generally is cooler, more like Burgundy than Provence, more Continental than Mediterranean.
Next to great terroir, I have found it always increases one’s chances of getting a great wine if you choose a great producer – one with a track record of quality like Chave. As Richard Betts noted, the Chaves also have a reputation of producing excellent wine even in a subpar vintage, such as 2004 (the red in our tasting illustrated this point). Jean Louis and his father Gerard are committed to producing wine in the traditional way but not just for the sake of tradition. They know modern technology can produce clean, clear, stable wines but those wines are all too often bland, simple and without character. Chave wines are produced naturally without chemicals or machines in the vineyards and with minimal intervention in the cellar.
When nature cooperates to produce perfectly ripe raw materials, the role of winemaker is to make sure the true character of the grapes, the vineyard where they originated, and the characteristics of the vintage are translated in the final wine. As Chave explained, each year they try to answer the question, “What is Hermitage.” And after listening to Jean-Louis’ comments, Robert Bohr was moved to remark that he is more of a philosopher than someone just trying to sell wine.
With the Chave approach to winemaking, blending skills are critical. Jean-Louis explained the élevage, or upbringing, of his wines, where they vinify the grapes from each parcel they own separately. Then, when each site is fully expressed in these wines, they “blend the terroirs” so the final wine is the best expression of Hermitage. I found it revealing when he pointed out that they never talk about syrah, just the vineyards. As Jean-Louis put it, “the grape is just a vector for the soil to express itself in the wine.” But the truth is, as Bobby Stuckey asserted, syrah does well in many places but nowhere is it like this.” And as Stuckey declared, “There is no makeup on these wines.”
In the hands of the Chave family, the Hermitage terroir yields both red and white wines that at their best are powerful, yet elegant; well structured, yet generous; concentrated, yet harmonious; and long-lived. Both also often exhibit savory elements and fennel/anise/ licorice notes. They also are expensive, with the white priced around $200 and the red about $250 … a bottle!
The whites in our tasting also showed distinctive honey, apricot, and tropical fruit, and lush, viscous textures. The 2007 added grains and a hint of chalk. The 2003 was more woodsy, with forest notes. The 2000 showed the potential for development of these wines, with nut, caramel and roasted grain notes but still very fresh and ripe fruit. The reds delivered high-toned red and black berry fruit, with fennel, white (?) pepper, and meat. The 2007 added eucalyptus. The 2004 was a little brooding, with cured meat and darker fruit. The 2001 showed development of an earthy quality and velvety texture but was still quite tannic, with plenty of ripe fruit.
Tasting these wines, I realized another key to their greatness is balance. There is amazing complexity but no component is in excess. Rather, all the components are seamlessly integrated. Although powerful and concentrated, they are well proportioned and complex. They reflect the winemakers’ skill and philosophy but also the vintage and terroir. They are an expression of their origin – the region, people and culture of Hermitage. This is their greatness.
