Tag: biodynamic

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PEOPLE’S PALATE WINERY PROFILE: BONNY DOON VINEYARD

RANDALL GRAHM’S AND BONNY DOON’S QUEST FOR TERROIRISTIC SELF EXPRESSION BEARS FRUIT

 

Over the last few decades, the concept of terroir and its influence on the grapes grown in a given location and ultimately the wine from those grapes has been the subject of an enormous amount of discussion and as much debate. When I first saw mentions of the subject, it was mostly presented in terms of the geography and geology of the soil in which the grapevines are grown. Soon after, conversations incorporated the environmental conditions and climate. Then it was expanded to include factors influenced by humans – particularly the grape growing and winemaking.

 

Nowadays most commentators agree a “terroir driven wine” ultimately reflects the sum of the natural conditions of its place of origin and the human decisions in the vineyard and the cellar that attempt to express the unique characteristics of that location. Actually, beyond that it seems to me the extent to which a wine accomplishes that ideal is a result of a still poorly understood alchemy in which the wine is greater than the sum of its influences.

 

Enter Randall Grahm, a singular winemaking personality known as much for his gift at turning a phrase and clever prose incorporating literary and philosophical references. Mr. Grahm founded Bonny Doon winery thirty years ago and was one of the original “Rhone Rangers” (proponents of California wines made with grapes typical of France’s Rhone Valley). He has long been a proponent of “terroir driven” wines but to many seemed to have lost his way for a period when he focused more on growing his wine business (ultimately to nearly 500,000 cases a year).

 

Now, he has recommitted himself and his operation to making (actually I think he would prefer I say “shepherding” or “facilitating” or maybe “translating”) wines that reflect the vineyard source. A key decision in this regard he says is his decision to only use biodynamically farmed grapes and rely on indigenous yeasts for fermentation. There still are myriad practices employed in the cellar to achieve the style of wine Mr. Grahm prefers (which I would describe as more European – higher acidity, dryer fruit flavors, more earthy and herbal components) but he seems genuinely dedicated to decisions he thinks will produce wines optimally characteristic of their origin.

 

And the quality of the wines, at least based on my recent tasting, more than justify his approach. He still is focusing on Rhone varietals and now also “lesser-known varietals” like the Albarino reviewed below.

 

 

For the whites, the 2011 Albarino ($18) from the Central Coast vineyards Casa Grande near Soledad and Jesperson Ranch in San Louis Obispo is fun to drink. True to its varietal characteristics (the grape is mostly known for its wines from Spain and Portugal), this wine is fairly aromatic and quite lively in the mouth. I enjoyed its peach, melon and lime fruit, and a creamy note that adds weight.

 

The 2010 Le Cigare Blanc Beeswax Vineyard Arroyo Seco ($26) also is quite fragrant with floral, lemon, pear, and spice notes. This Rhône-style blend of roussanne and grenache blanc comes from a shielded from the cool Pacific winds by the Santa Lucia Mountains vineyard is medium-bodied, with a lush texture (possibly from the full malolactic fermentation) and intriguing mineral characteristics.

 

 

On to the reds, the 2010 Contra ($16) is described as an “Old Vine Field Blend” implying the vineyard sources are planted with multiple grapes and all the fruit is harvested and vinified together. About 2/3 carignane (old, nongrafted, dry-farmed, head-trained vines from Contra Costa County’s Gonsalves Vineyard) and 1/3 syrah (from Santa Maria Valley’s Bien Nacido Vineyard) with splashes of grenache, roussanne, grenache blanc, and mourvèdre, this is similar to a wine we might find from the south of France. Regardless, it is a fine value with mushroom aromas and nice ripe red and black fruits, a touch of licorice and spice followed by a medium body, supple texture and fresh acidity.

 

The 2009 Ca’ del Solo Nebbiolo Monterey County ($45) from the biodynamic Ca’ del Solo Estate Vineyard is rather pricey but it does deliver the goods. On the nose, there are pure red cherry, lightly floral and smoke notes, and maybe even a creamy quality. In the mouth, an underlying element of earth with a touch of fennel is the foundation for a juicy, lighter-bodied, brightly fruited wine.

 

The Chateauneuf-du-Pape style 2008 Le Cigare Volant ($38) has become somewhat iconic since its inception 25 years ago. It was one of the first such wines from one of the first Rhone Rangers. This vintage is 45 percent grenache (mostly from Ca’ del Solo estate) and 30 percent syrah (mostly from Bien Nacido vineyard), with smaller proportions of mourvedre, cinsault, and carignane. It shows tangy plum and hints of cherries and anise. I sense lightly dusty, woodsy notes in the nose. There is similar fruit in the broad mouth, while it closes with powdery, gravelly tannins.

The 2008 Le Cigare Volant Reserve en Bonbonne ($65) is a really interesting wine. It is a selection of the Cigare Volant separated to finish aging in 5-gallon glass bottles (called carboys or “bonbonnes”) rather than barrels or foudres. Possibly because of the nature of this container, particularly its reductive (oxygen free) nature, it does seem to have a bit more structure and taste a little fresher. Still, the bouquet presents evolved notes of dried berries and herbs with a pleasant suggestion of gravel. It is nicely concentrated and dry and finishes with noticeable tannic grip.

 

I would say these two wines are of roughly equal quality, although I preferred the Bonbonne. They’re just made in different styles. Maybe they should be thought of as different expressions of the vineyard sources as interpreted by the winemaker.

 

There also were three Syrahs in my tasting. One, the 2009 Le Pousseur Syrah ($25) was the only wine that didn’t impress me much. There was nothing wrong with its earthy, savory qualities and black cherry fruit. It just seemed rather one-dimensional.

 

In contrast, the 2008 Syrah Alamo Creek Vineyard ($35) had a lot going on. It opened with enticing red fruit. Then it followed with smoky dried herbs and a spice note that for some reason made me wonder if they came from the grape, the barrels in which the wine was aged, or the vineyard (which Grahm says is planted in an old riverbed in San Louis Obispo County). It had a similar flavor profile, with deep fruit, a touch of anise and savory, peppery, meaty flavors. This is all packaged in a solid structure, with distinct dryness, finishing with lively tannins.

 

Finally, the 2008 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard ($42) was the star of my tasting. From the cool climate, older vines and calcareous soils of Bien Nacido’s X-block, this is a fantastic wine. It was generous with its tart cherry and juicy berry fruit. Peppery, earthy and meaty elements emerged with time in the glass, all nicely balanced with fresh acidity. As with the best Syrahs, this wine deftly balanced power and elegance.

 

Based on the wines in my tasting, this partnership between the winemakers, wine growers, grapevines, and vineyards is bearing fine fruit and I look forward to following its further development.

 

 

NOTE: All photos obtained from Bonny Doon website.

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COULÉE DE SERRANT SEMINAR EXPLORES THE MEANING OF TERROIR AND AUTHENTICITY

What is special, even unique about wine? What distinguishes wine from other beverages, both alcoholic and non? How do we determine quality in wine? Why does wine matter?

To me these were the essential questions at the heart of a fascinating reserve wine tasting seminar I attended at the recent Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. The seminar was billed as a discussion with Nicolas Joly, owner of Coulée de Serrant, and featured a vertical tasting of his iconic Loire Valley wine, Clos de la Coulée de Serrant.

I describe the wines as “iconic” because Coulée de Serrant is an almost 900 year-old vineyard originally planted by Cistercian monks; because the tiny 17 acre vineyard is its own appellation growing only (the little known) chenin blanc within the larger (but also little known) Savennières appellation; because Nicolas Joly is arguably the leading proponent of biodynamic viticulture; and because the wines regularly receive high praise and high prices (around $90-$100, something pretty rare for wines made from chenin blanc); but also because Joly, his methods, and his wines are revered by many but also invite controversy.

Bobby Stuckey (Sommelier at Frasca Food and Wine) introduced Mr. Joly as a visionary who has spent more time thinking about and practicing biodynamic viticulture than anyone. Mr. Joly began by saying, “It’s all about how energy becomes matter,” a statement that succinctly encapsulates the biodynamic philosophy. He added that the main goal is to fully express the place, in this case the Coulée de Serrant vineyard. Hence, the importance of hat the French call terroir.

That terroir is the middle of the Loire Valley, the region of Anjou-Saumur (just to the west of Angers) where the appellation Savennières (a little further southwest) is the epicenter for dry chenin blanc. The steep, south facing slopes of volcanic soils infused with schist (coarse-grained, layered, mineral and crystal heavy metamorphic rocks) yield wines that, as Karen MacNeil (in “The Wine Bible”) writes, “taste like nothing else.”

That’s why Joly emphasized he is a strong supporter of the French “appellation controlee” system, the whole point of which is to “guarantee” that wines produced in a particular place uniquely reflect that place of origin. It’s also why he says, “I don’t only want a good wine but also a true wine.”

A Savennières typically asserts itself with tight acidity that grips the palate on entry. This and an impressive intensity of fruit enables these wines to live longer than almost any other white wine and even most red wines. The most common descriptors include quince, chamomile, honey, cream, citrus, and stone.

To succeed at his goal to be true to the terroir, Joly explained, requires understanding the farm as a biologically diverse system (even part of larger systems – the earth, solar system) and trusting those natural systems to facilitate the operation of their various components to grow the best grapes possible in a given place.

Once I grasped this fundamental orientation, it made sense when Joly said he is “not a winemaker but a nature assistant.” I’ve often heard the statement that “great wine is made in the vineyard.” At times, it has seemed rehearsed, designed to tell consumers and wine journalists what they expect to hear. Not so with Joly.

So how is the wine “made” in the vineyard? The central tenant of biodynamics, as Joly tells it, is to channel the energy of the vineyard to express itself through the vines into the grapes. As a caretaker of the process, the vigneron’s (or wine grower) role is to assist that energy flow to enable the grapes to achieve optimum balance and ripeness.

Similar to organic agriculture, the vines are tended without pesticides, herbicides or synthetic fertilizers and bioengineering and irradiation are off limits. Mr. Joly explained these destroy the “living agents” in the soil. But, like other practitioners of this approach, Joly will employ homeopathic or herbal preparations that are made using substances found in nature and are intended to act on certain aspects of the plant or growth cycle to release the flow of energy.

Then Joly said something that would be heretical in most oenology schools (and caused nervous giggling in the audience): “If the right decisions are made in the vineyard, there actually isn’t much to do in the cellar.” It made me think of an analogy to the world of high fidelity (vinyl) music reproduction, where audiophiles often point out “true” sound quality depends first on the quality of the phonograph (and especially the cartridge/stylus). In other words, if you don’t get it right at the beginning, you have to engage all manner of adjustments down the line to cover up the imperfections.

Mr. Joly continued, with high quality fruit, all he need do is press the grapes; keep the juice in neutral wood barrels; rely on indigenous yeast for fermentation; and pretty much let it all alone until March, only monitoring development and maybe stirring the lees occasionally. Then, he generally does one racking (transferring the wine from one barrel to another leaving sediment behind) and one light filtration right before bottling.

When all is said and done, though, it still comes down to what’s in the bottle. And to me, the eight wines I tasted (admittedly not blind) were a revelation. Joly told us to not expect Clos de la Coulée de Serrant to taste the same each vintage. And the wines in the tasting didn’t. Sure, there were similarities. Each wine to varying degrees showed strong acidity, luscious texture, honey, and an abundance of mostly stone fruits and citrus. Maybe that was the vineyard speaking.

But each wine did have its unique characteristics. An intriguing salty sea breeze quality reminiscent of Spanish Manzanilla Sherry distinguished the 2009. 2008 was the most highly focused. 2007 revealed tangy butterscotch notes, while for 2006 it was caramel apple. I found the 2004 to have the most intense fruit and honey. For 2003, it was the waxy, lanolin-like texture. 2001 was really different showing fennel and tobacco. Finally, orange notes emerged from the 1999, a 12 year-old white wine still incredibly vibrant!

Some have criticized biodynamics as too mystical and weak scientifically (particularly with regard to the more esoteric practices) but Joly argues it requires a deeper understanding of nature and of farming than assumed with the conventional scientific wisdom. Regardless, the most important benefit of biodynamics, at least as practiced by farmers like Nicolas Joly, is it also gives a guarantee of truthfulness in farming and “winemaking.” You know what you are getting, pure, unadulterated produce that is born of a certain place and no other. And we as consumers should be thankful for committed souls like Nicolas Joly for caring enough to assist nature on our behalf.

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OREGON’S 2008 VINTAGE ELEVATES PINOT NOIR

Over the last decade, Oregon has emerged as one of the world’s great Pinot Noir producing regions. Now, with around 400 wineries, the state has developed into a world-class wine tourism destination.

The Oregon wine industry also has become a leader in the sustainable agriculture movement. This is seen in the increasing number of growers and wineries participating in four related certification programs.

LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology, Inc.) certification promotes responsible stewardship of the land by recognizing practices that reduce reliance on synthetic chemicals and fertilizers and maintain biological diversity.

“Salmon Safe” certification recognizes practices that help restore and maintain healthy watersheds.

Organic certification from Oregon Tilth is awarded to those that meet biologically sound and socially equitable criteria. Many wineries also employ organic and sustainable farming practices without official recognition.

The Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Green Building certification acknowledges achievement in sustainable site development, water savings, energy efficiency, materials selection, and indoor environmental quality.

Most of the wines in my tastings were from the highly touted 2008 vintage and confirmed the vintage’s reputation. As a group the wines show intense fruit and ripeness – yet only one had more than 14 percent alcohol – resulting in wine with power and elegance. They aren’t cheap but most have avoided the price inflation of comparable wines from Burgundy and California. My recommendations from recent tastings are listed below.

Arcachon. This second label for Oak Knoll is named after a community southwest of Bordeaux, which was the home of the founder’s ancestors. The 2008 Willamette Valley ($12) is a very good value; quite flavorful for the price.

Cana’s Feast. Also known for their Italian varietal wines from Washington grapes, the 2008 Meredith Mitchell Vineyard ($48) is supple and balanced with a sense of earth and brown spices with fresh acidity lifting the finish.

Carabella. Owned by a Colorado trained winemaker, Carabella’s first vintage was in 1998. The vineyard, located in the Chehalem Mountains of Oregon’s Willamette Valley has produced an excellent 2008 ($39). Expect admirable complexity from berry fruit, spice and even minerality, carried with good weight and a supple texture.

Four Graces. Established in 2003, The Four Graces is named in honor of the founders’ four daughters. Half of the vineyards are farmed sustainably; the other half using Biodynamic principles. The 2008 Willamette Valley ($29) combines blackberry fruit with earthy, mushroom notes in a firm and, well, graceful frame.

King Estate. Founded in 1991 by the King family, King Estate has grown into one of Oregon’s largest wineries and most popular wine tourist attractions. They also have been pioneers of organic and sustainable farming. The flavorful and firm 2009 Signature Collection ($27) continues a successful streak for this wine.

Ponzi Vineyards. Established in 1970, the Ponzi family and have been leaders in Oregon’s wine industry and the responsible stewardship movement. Truly a family winery, production now is being carried on by a second generation. The vineyards and winemaking are LIVE certified. The winery is a sustainable, gravity-flow facility. And the complex and silky 2008 Willamette Valley ($35) is one of the rewards.

Sokol Blosser. Ever since the first vines were planted in 1971, this family has been leaders in the sustainable agriculture movement utilizing a variety of stewardship practices, including organic farming, sustainable business practices, energy efficiency, and low impact packaging, a LEED certified winery, Salmon-Safe, and Carbon Neutral Challenge. The 2008 Dundee Hills ($34) is 79% organic, with black cherry, earth, spice and good structure with supple tannin.

Stoller Vineyards. The Stoller family has farmed this property since in 1943. Bill and Cathy Stoller became owners in 1993 and began the gradual conversion to vineyards. The new winery is solar-powered and gold-level LEED status. Add Salmon Safe and LIVE certified. The 2007 Dundee Hills “JV” ($25) shows bright cherry fruit and spice in an early drinking style.

Toii Mor. Although founded in 1993, the estate vineyard was planted in 1972.  The owners are focused on farming sustainably (LIVE certified); reducing carbon and energy usage; and employing solar energy and a gravity flow winery (LEED Gold). The 2008 Willamette Valley ($22) was fermented using indigenous yeasts and shows dark cherry, earthy mushroom and toast with crisp acidity.

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Chile Another South American Source of Excellent Values

rich mauro peoples palateAs I wrote in a previous post, the popularity of wine from Argentina and Chile with American consumers has been growing for a good decade now. And it seems to have escalated since the beginning of the Great Recession. The main reason for this popularity seems to be that most of the wines remain modestly priced, even as the quality has improved.

Chilean wines have been good values as long as I can remember. What is different now is that the quality has improved rather dramatically in recent years. Just as I proposed in my post last month on Argentina, there are good wines under $10 and in some ways even better values in the $10-$20 range.

Another similarity with Argentina is the fairly recent emergence of an otherwise lesser-known variety – in this case Carménère – as the country’s signature wine. This red grape was widely planted in Bordeaux in the early 1700’s but virtually disappeared in the late 1800’s. As immigrants and others brought European varieties to Chile in the mid 1800’s, it showed up there; seemingly disappeared again over time (actually it apparently was often mistaken for merlot); then was discovered again in the 1990’s and rather quickly recognized for its potential in this new environment.

Typically, Carménère is a deeply colored wine that displays appealing berry, coffee and spice notes.  The Colchagua Valley, south of Santiago, is considered the primary source as it is for these wines recommended from my tastings: 2009 Cono Sur “Bicycle” ($11), 2009 Mont Gras Reserva ($15), 2008 Arboleda ($19).

But Carménère is not just a “value” wine in Chile. Numerous wineries are producing refined, complex Carménère. A good example is the 2007 “El Incidente” ($50) from Viu Manent. This inaugural vintage contains the finest grapes from their Colchagua vineyards. Translated as “the incident,” the name refers to a balloon accident from the family’s history. This complex wine shows dark berries, brown spice, and hints of chocolate. It also clearly benefits from the addition of Petit Verdot and Malbec. This 75 year-old family owned winery also produces a wide variety of wines at modest prices.

Despite the excitement for and promise of Carménère, Cabernet Sauvignon still dominates the reds. It tends to show more ripe fruit than, say, Bordeaux but more structure and herbal notes than California. Look for wines especially from the Maipo (just north of Santiago) and Colchagua valleys. My favorites from the tastings: 2008 Los Vascos Reserve ($20) from a winery managed by the Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite), 2007 Santa Rita “Medalla Real” Single Estate ($20), 2009 Cono Sur Organic Cabernet Sauvignon/Carménère ($14).

As for the whites, Chardonnay still rules by volume but Sauvignon Blanc, especially from the Casablanca Valley (west of Santiago near the coast), may turn to be the best white overall. The finest are fresh and crisp and quite aromatic. They tend to display lively fruit and occasionally mineral notes. These showed well in my tastings: Los Vascos $11, 2010 Santa Rita Reserva ($12), 2008 Arboleda ($18).

Actually, like California, Chile has quite a diverse landscape and climate – in this case the Pacific Ocean borders to the west, the Andes Mountains line the east, and the Atacama Desert defines the north. This allows many different grape varieties to be grown successfully. Beyond the varieties already mentioned, there is a lot of merlot and I’ve been reading about the improving Syrah (although neither of these were included in my tastings).

Chile also is turning into a good source of Pinot Noir. One of my favorite producers is Cono Sur, the pioneer of Chilean Pinot Noir. They seek a Burgundian style, with a Chilean accent. The 2009 “Vision” ($15) is a fine expression of the Block 68 Old Vine Vineyard in Colchagua Valley. The 2008 “20 Barrels” ($28) is a limited edition special selection that rewards the effort to select the best lots from their Casablanca Valley vineyards.

Another good Pinot Noir is the Bodegas Corpora 2008 “Llai Llai” ($13). Llai Llai (which means “wind” in the indigenous Mapuche) is a new brand featuring two wines, a Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the Bio Bio Valley in the remote southern part of the country, whose cool climate and significant coastal influence offers excellent conditions for these varieties.

Interestingly, Chile is emerging as an innovator in sustainable agriculture. Several of the wineries mentioned in this column employ a variety of sustainable practices – Arboleda (sustainable viticulture, environmental and worker protection), Cono Sur (integrated vineyard management, organic vineyards, carbon neutral delivery), Santa Rita (sustainable viticulture), Bodegas Corpora (organic and biodynamic viticulture, solar energy), Viu Manent (environmental protection, carbon neutral).

One of Chile’s most socially and environmentally responsible businesses is Emiliana, a 25 year-old winery from the family that also manages the iconic Concha y Toro winery. Emiliana is dedicated to producing wines

made from organic and biodynamic grapes. And the winemaking has transitioned to using indigenous yeast. They have earned carbon neutral certification for many of their wines; use recycled and recyclable materials; have reduced packaging; and recycle waste products. Beyond production values, the company certifies good and fair working conditions and supports community projects. They even share profits in ancillary honey and olive oil ventures with the workers.

In addition to the top-of-the-line Coyam and “G” biodynamic wines and the organic Natura and Novas lines, Emiliana has introduced a new line called Eco Balance (from sustainably farmed vineyards in transition to organic status). Priced at an inviting $9 and delivering equally attractive quality, the whites include 2009 Sauvignon Blanc and 2009 Chardonnay (both Casablanca). The reds include 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo), 2008 Merlot (Rapel), and 2008 Carménère (Colchagua).

All in all, my tastings revealed a diverse and impressive showing. For the most part, Chilean wine delivers high quality at reasonable prices, a good combination in any economy.