Central Coast Archives - The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

August 9, 2013November 17, 2013

HOPE FAMILY SHOWCASES THE BEST OF PASO ROBLES

On a recent press trip to Paso Robles, sponsored by Hope Family Wines, our host Austin Hope set the tone for the visit when he said it was his goal to show us the diversity of the region, not just his wines. I welcomed this, not only because Hope’s wines have long been among my favorites but also because I had been to Paso twice before and was eager to see how the region has developed.

Paso Robles is the largest American Viticultural Area (AVA) in California. It is also the name of the main town of about 30,000, whose original name was El Paso del Robles (“Passage of the Oaks”). But, after my visits to the area, I think Paso could just be short for “passion.

Austin Hope oversees Hope Family Wines (www.hopefamilywines.com), a family-owned and -operated enterprise encompassing five brands: Liberty School, Treana, Candor, Austin Hope and Troublemaker wines. Austin’s father, Chuck Hope moved his family from the Central Valley to Paso in 1978 to plant wine grapes pioneering families of the region. After growing grapes and developing vineyards throughout the eighties and early nineties, the family became convinced Paso Robles was capable of producing world-class wines and began producing their own wines.

They joined a handful of other pioneering families who helped promote the region, not just as a source of fine quality grapes but also as a complete wine travel destination. Today, Austin and Hope Family Wines also epitomize Paso Robles’ reputation for being on the cutting edge, a reputation Austin has fostered by experimenting with Rhone-style blends and multiple vintage wines.

At a tour of the Huerhuero Vineyard, a longtime source for entry level Liberty School wines, on the Eastside of Paso Robles, and of the nearby Hope Family Wines winemaking facility, we learned from General Manager of Vineyard Operations Suhky Sran, Winemaker J.C. Diefenderfer, and Assistant Winemaker Samantha Taylor about the family’s role in developing vineyards throughout Paso Robles and how they work with over 50 family-owned vineyards to produce fruit for the Liberty School wines. The brand had bee created in the 1970’s by the Wagner family of Napa’s Caymus Vineyards and the Hopes collaborated with the Wagners since the late 1980’s to supply cabernet sauvignon grapes. He Hope’s then took over sole responsibility for the brand in 1996.

Today, there is a range of varietals that deliver consistent quality for the money and are regularly recognized as a “Good Values” and “Best Buys.” Look for Cabernet Sauvignon (2010, $14), Chardonnay wines (2011, $14), Pinot Noir ($20), and Liberty School Merlot ($16). The wines are made in a more restrained, food friendly style with forward fruit, good varietal character, and moderate alcohol.

The Hopes then established Treana Winery in 1996, to produce high-end Rhone-style blends from Paso Robles and Central Coast fruit. JC explained to us the name Treana symbolizes the trinity of natural elements – sun, soil and ocean – that make Paso Robles and the Central Coast exceptional for growing wine grapes.

To give us a flavor for what this means, we toured the Mer Soleil Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands near Salinas (our only stop outside of Paso Robles). This Monterey County-based vineyard is the long-time major source for Treana White, one of the first white Rhone-style blends and still one of the most highly regarded. The current vintage (2011, $23) is a blend of equal parts viognier and marsanne. Floral and tropical aromatics precede ripe pear and honey flavors combined with a lush texture and balancing acidity.

The Treana Red (2010, $45), which Austin considers his flagship wine, is a blend of cabernet sauvignon and syrah. It combines the depth and structure of a Cab, with the fullness and class of syrah. It is a perfect example of Austin’s willingness to work outside-the-box. Not many wineries were combining Rhone and Bordeaux blends when he created this wine almost twenty years ago.

The Hopes also own a vineyard on the Westside of Paso Robles planted primarily to syrah and grenache, with some mourvedre. Austin crafts wines inspired by the Northern Rhône Valley from this estate grown fruit. Known as the Hope Family Vineyard, it is located 20 miles east of the Pacific Ocean in the Templeton Gap district of Paso Robles. The site’s rocky soils of clay and limestone make it ideal for the Rhône varietals to which it is planted.

At this site, we were given a fascinating overview of the sustainable farming practices – certified by Sustainability in Practice (SIP), www.sipcertified.com – employed in the vineyard. Beth Vukmanic Lopez, Sustainability in Practice Certification Manager explained how for over 15 years, SIP has helped growers, vineyards and consumers rethink their approach to sustainability. As Beth said, SIP Certified sustainable vineyards and wines is about looking at the whole farm and considering “people, planet and profit.” In this sense, SIP is complementary to organic practices, not necessarily a replacement. Of course, a winery needs to make a profit to stay in business but that is closely tied to the quality of the wines, which depends on the quality of the grapes, which is connected to healthy vineyards. But SIP practices also consider the well being of the vineyard and winery workers, an often over looked factor. An important element to the success of the program is the third party certification SIP provides using independent auditors.

At the winery and tasting room on site, we enjoyed a barrel tasting of 2012 vintage Austin Hope Syrah and Grenache. Austin told us he uses traditional Côte-Rotie as his benchmark in making his syrah. But, being in California, he added he likes his wines to taste like the old world wines “but with a little bit more.”

This approach showed through the current vintages we tasted. The Syrah (2010, $42) displayed a balance of savory and fruit elements. Aromatic, intense and full-bodied, it also was elegant with pure berry fruit, licorice and earthy complexity. The Grenache (2010, $42) revealed characteristics of dried red fruits, earth and spices with good concentration, firm acidity and soft tannins.

The Hopes haven’t stopped to rest on these successful brands. Another label, “Candor” was created in 2008. These multi-vintage wines, a Merlot and Zinfandel, are crafted from specially selected fruit from a variety of Central Coast vineyards. They exhibit excellent varietal flavor at a reasonable price. We tasted the Zinfandel Lot 4 ($20) and Merlot Lot 3 ($20), which I found notable for their true varietal flavor and fresh, bright fruit.

Finally, the newest label in the Hope Family stable, “Troublemaker,” places Austin Hope’s creativity and willingness to challenge convention on full display. Troublemaker Blend 6 ($20) is a multi-vintage montage of 50% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Zinfandel and 10% Petite Sirah. Its profile reflected its name with brash fruit and lively texture.

While it was great to learn about all the Hope wines, the trip was made really special by the inclusion of visits to some of Paso Robles most notable artisan producers and restaurants.

Villa Creek (www.villacreek.com) has long been a destination restaurant for Paso Robles.

Artisan (www.artisanpasorobles.com) grows some of its ingredients at a local organic farm and showcased a distinctive wine on tap program.

Thomas Hill Organics (www.thomashillorganics.com) is a casual market-bistro that serves spectacularly fresh food, not surprising since most of it comes from their own organic farm.

Il Cortile Ristorante (www.ilcortileristorante.com) features exceptional homemade pastas, fresh seafood, and top-quality meats.

All of the restaurants craft dishes as much as possible from seasonal, locally grown ingredients from small producers, much of it organically or sustainably farmed. At these restaurants, farm-to-table is not just a marketing slogan. They live it every day. I will say without hesitation these places are as good as the best restaurants in any city in the nation.

And as if that wasn’t enough, to give us a sampling of the top quality artisan products being produced in the area we also toured two special places.

A visit to the Kiler Ridge Olive Farm (http://kilerridge.com) with founders Audrey Burnam & Gregg Bone was eye opening. Although it is just minutes from downtown Paso Robles the hilly, picturesque location transports visitors to another location, specifically Italy. Kiler Ridge uses sustainable farming practices and currently maintains 2,500 olive trees – varieties originating from Italy and Sicily.

Gregg and Audrey were gracious hosts. Gregg provided us with an extensive overview of his production process and explained in amazing detail why most of the “extra virgin” olive oil we buy in the supermarket isn’t really, regardless of what’s on the label.

It was particularly enlightening to me to actually taste the difference. The Kiler Ridge oils were noticeably fresher and displayed distinct grassy and peppery flavors. Greg explained this is because his oils have much higher polyphenol content – he even said, “I’m a polyphenol producer, not an olive oil producer.” Polyphenols are strong antioxidants with many health benefits. Bottom line, though, the oils were delicious but admittedly might be an acquired taste for some consumers used to blander commercial oils.

And they presented us with the most eye opening taste sensation I have hade in years: vanilla ice cream topped with sea salt, my choice of Kiler Ridge olive oil and balsamic syrup. All I can say is “wow!” It was delicious with all the savory and sweet elements melding together beautifully.

We also took a refreshing break from winetasting for a tour of the Firestone Walker Brewery (www.firestonebeer.com) with Brewmaster Matt Brynildson. Firestone Walker (named for owners Adam Firestone and David Walker) has been brewing since 1996 but moved from Santa Barbara to Paso Robles in 2001. Firestone Walker and Brewmaster Brynildson are one of the nation’s most awarded breweries and are particularly notable for their use of barrel fermentation for several of their ales.

I wholeheartedly recommend the next time you are considering a vacation to wine country, make Paso Robles your destination. The number of wineries has grown from about forty 25 years ago to over 200 (mostly small and family-owned) today. But that is only the beginning of this region’s story. Passionate, dedicated artisan producers with a commitment to sustainability are to be found everywhere in the region.

February 13, 2012February 19, 2012

DISCOVER THE WIDE WORLD OF SYRAH (AND SHIRAZ)

Featured Image courtesy of Niner Wine Estates

Syrah is one of the world’s great red wine grapes but for some reason it has languished in the shadow of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and more recently Pinot Noir. I hope that changes soon; the grape deserves the attention.

At its best, wines made from syrah provide great concentration, complexity and elegance, with an array of aromas and flavors, including berries, cherries, plum, currants, black or white pepper, anise, meat, leather, herbs, chocolate and coffee, and an ability to develop for 10, even 20 years. Even a lower priced syrah will deliver forward fruit and a smooth texture that is just right for everyday drinking.

Syrah also is a good food wine. It matches well with any dish that calls for a full flavored red wine, especially if it’s grilled, roasted, smoked or barbecued. It also stands up well to spicy foods.

Syrah developed its noble reputation as the primary red grape of France‘s northern Rhone Valley, especially the great Hermitage but also Côte-Rôtie, Cornas, Gigondas, St. Joseph, and Crozes-Hermitage. Syrah also can be an important component of the wines of the southern Rhone, including Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Cotes-du-Rhone, as well as many other wines of southern France.

In Hermitage especially the special nature of syrah originates with geography and climate. Steep, terraced vineyards stretch up and down granite hillsides rising above the Rhone River. Over millennia the river has carried alluvial deposits from the Alps laced with calcareous (limestone) and dotted with flint and stones. Cooler Continental influences from the north merge with warmer Mediterranean influences up from the south. The resulting strong winds – known as Mistral – are an ever-present challenge to the vines.

Hermitage, which actually is just a few hilltops, is a tiny appellation – just 320 acres, not much more than many Bordeaux estates. This famous hill got its name from a legend about a knight returning from the Crusades who decided to live out his life in solitude in the chapel on the top of the hill. After his passing, the chapel continued as a home for hermits.

Many believe syrah achieves its noblest expression here, where all the red wines are 100% syrah. M. Chapoutier’s is one of the top producers, along with great names like Chave, Jaboulet and Delas. The Chapoutier family’s history in the Rhône stretches back two centuries. Today they make some of the region’s most prestigious wines and are one of the world’s most highly regarded producers. The 2007 “Monier de la Sizeranne” ($125) is in many ways typical of great Hermitage: deep color, intense aromatics (red and black fruits – raspberry, blackcurrant, blackberry – hints of violets, black pepper and licorice). There also are suggestions of the signature meaty character that should become more pronounced with age. But it is so balanced it actually could be described as elegant. Strong but soft tannins and a lingering finish suggest a long life.

Although France is the benchmark for syrah, Australia deserves a lot of the credit for increasing the grape’s popularity. Australia has over the last 150 years or so developed a special relationship with syrah. Australian Shiraz has become one of the largest selling wines in the U.S. in recent years, popularizing the use of that name on the label. The Aussies produce a lot of good, inexpensive wine but also some of the world’s best wines from the grape.

And not that it necessarily needs it but what better validation of Australia’s success with the grape than for Michel Chapoutier to commit his family to a partnership with the wine importer Anthony Terlato to produce wine here. Their 2007 Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier “lieu dit Malakoff” ($30) single vineyard wine shows its mountain-grown origins in the Pyrenees of Central Victoria. Aromas of black fruits, with touches of chocolate and pepper preview a juicy intensity and solid but silky structure.

The Barossa Valley, just north of Adelaide in South Australia has emerged as arguably the country’s premier Shiraz producer. If you like big, unabashed wines, the 2010 Two Hands “Gnarly Dudes” ($40) is for you. Within little more than a decade, Two Hands has become one of Australia’s most highly praised producers. While they source grapes from various vineyards throughout South Australia, the grapes for Gnarly Dudes come from a number of Barossa parcels, notable for their gnarly old vines. Cocoa, anise and a floral note accent this wine’s dark berries, all delivered with vibrant acidity, with a finish balanced by firm but fine tannins.

I also have identified two good Aussie choices that will take half the bite out of your pocketbook.

The 2010 The Lucky Country McLaren Vale ($19) is from the coastal area south of Adelaide that was first planted in 1838 and still boasts many old vines. The wine is typical Mc Laren Vale with vibrant dark fruits, in this case especially blackberry, hints of mocha, herbal, soil characteristics, and a touch of meat and spice.

Or try another Barossa Shiraz, like the 2009 Peter Lehman ($17). This well regarded winery has been producing for 31 years using mostly fruit purchased from dozens of growers with long-term relationships. The result here is an immediately approachable wine of plum, meat and chocolate aromas followed by a juicy, fresh palate.

Australia’s southern hemisphere neighbor South Africa has emerged in recent years as a fine wine producer well worth attention. And Shiraz definitely is one of the country’s top red wines. The 2006 Rust en Vrede Stellenbosch ($28) would be a great place to start sampling what the country has to offer. The Rust en Vrede estate dates to 1694! And Stellenbosch is the country’s premier winegrowing region. This wine is quite intense, loaded with black fruits, and accented with notes of chocolate, cinnamon, meat and smoke. Round tannins increase its appeal.

Which brings us to California. It seems over the last twenty years or so, Syrah has alternated between being “The Next Big Thing” to being an “also ran.” I say it deserves to be the next big thing. I certainly have had good to excellent Syrah from just about every California growing region.

Terlato shows up again with an impressive Dry Creek Valley Syrah, the 2007 Terlato Block 9 ($48). Block 9 is a section of the Terlato Dry Creek Valley estate vineyard near the confluence of the Dry Creek and Russian Rivers where gravelly soils are particularly hospitable to syrah. They also seem to make for a particularly spicy, full-bodied wine with deep black fruits that linger in the finish.

One development of particular interest that emerged from my tastings is that the grape is doing particularly well in California’s Central Coast.

Paso Robles in particular has emerged as a prime source of syrah and other Rhone varietals. While many of the region’s best wines are blends, there are many fine varietal Syrah wines. For a good introduction, try the 2009 J. Lohr South Ridge Estate ($15). The South Ridge Estate, which sits on a south-facing hillside, hosts sandy and gravelly soils that combine to form conditions conducive to intense fruit. Spiced with touches of petite sirah and zinfandel, this wine shows nice blueberry and chocolate, with good acidity.

Another fine example of Paso Robles Syrah is the 2007 Niner Bootjack Ranch ($20). Niner Wine Estates began in 1999 when entrepreneur Dick Niner recognized Paso’s potential and purchased what is now called Bootjack Ranch. This wine shows black and red fruits, minerals and a smoky character. There are both floral and meaty notes, with good acidity and a finish lifted by noticeable tannins.

Even more impressive is what Zaca Mesa is doing with syrah (not to mention several other Rhône varietals) in Santa Barbara. Located in the heart of what most people know as prime pinot noir country, Zaca Mesa’s wines have introduced whole new possibilities for the region. Located in the Santa Ynez Valley, Zaca Mesa is dedicated to estate grown and bottled wines. All the wines are made from grapes grown on 244 acres of vineyards. Zaca Mesa was the first to plant syrah in Santa Barbara in 1978 and now farms 90 acres of the grape. These three Syrah definitely will grab your attention.

2008 Santa Ynez Valley ($25). This wine is the most typical of Zaca Mesa’s style. It bursts with red and black berries, smoke, mocha and spice. The smooth texture is enlivened by ripe tannins in the finish.

2007 Mesa Reserve ($44). This reserve is crafted from the best barrels of Zaca Mesa’s “Mesa B” block. It is incredibly concentrated with tons of fruit. All the dark berries and smoked meat one would expect, accented with suggestions of mocha, smoke and spice. It will continue to evolve for several years.

2006 Black Bear Block Estate Bottled Santa Ynez Valley ($60). The Black Bear Block is a single 3½-acre block planted with cuttings from (wouldn’t you know it) Chapoutier. This wine is serious stuff. Dense and rich, powerful yet elegant, it bursts with berries, cherries, and currants, all black. Mocha, pepper, oak, meat, and smoke all join the chorus. It finishes with elegant tannins and a touch of chocolate. And will drink well for at least a decade.

Hopefully, if consumers like you try wines like these, Syrah/Shiraz will soon regain its rightful place among the royalty of wines.

March 17, 2011April 6, 2011

CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR CONTINUES ITS EVOLUTION

There is something about pinot noir that seems to inspire an almost mad passion about the grape and its wine. It probably has to do with the grape’s notoriously temperamental nature, as well as its legendary ability to reflect the characteristics of the soil, climate and environment in which it is grown (what the French call ”terroir”).

Winemakers seem to be drawn to the dual challenge of making good wine from such a difficult grape that is also a uniquely expressive wine. Unfortunately, most winemakers fail at one or both of these challenges more often than they succeed. But when they do succeed, for winemakers and consumers, it’s like finding the Holy Grail.

The Burgundy region of France has long been prized as the source of the most spectacular Pinot Noir in the world. Pinot Noir from Oregon (which I reviewed in my last post) is now considered by many to be the second best place in the world to grow the grape. However, knowledgeable wine consumers know that California can produce Pinot Noir that rivals and even exceeds that of Burgundy and Oregon.

With producers identifying more appropriate growing sites (namely cooler climates with longer growing seasons that enable the grapes to ripen while retaining good acidity), matching better quality clones to particular sites, cultivating with extra care, and employing improved vinification techniques, there are countless good to outstanding wines now available for consumers. Yet my recent tastings of California pinot noirs from the 2007, 2008 and 2009 vintages demonstrated the quixotic nature of the quest for the Pinot Noir grail.

California Pinot Noir producers still have a challenge in getting the price/quality relationship right. Certainly, California Pinots are good in their own right and are (often significantly) less expensive than Burgundy. It’s just that Pinot Noir generally is not the wine to choose if you are looking for a good price/quality ratio. Still, my tastings did turn up more good values than the last time I did a major review of California Pinot Noir.

Style wise, most California Pinot Noir is vinified darker, fruitier, more concentrated and larger scaled than Burgundy’s reference point. But I think I detected the beginnings of a stylistic shift among winemakers. The best wines in the tasting delivered more elegance, finesse and earthy complexity than I’ve tasted previously, while still containing mouthfilling flavors and intense perfume.

My recent tastings included a representative sampling of California’s major pinot noir growing regions. Recommendations are presented moving from north to south. My favorites are in bold but all wines are recommended in their price range.

First, I found two wines labeled with just a “California” designation. Such wines are most likely to sport an every day price. The 2008 Murphy-Goode ($14) and 2009 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($18) of good varietal character for the money.

Mendocino County is best known to this palate for fine Zinfandel and Gewurztraminer but in recent years has taken its place among the top sources of Pinot Noir, especially from the Anderson Valley. The 2007 Paul Dolan, made from organic grapes, ($30) was the only Mendocino wine in my tastings but it showed admirable depth, richness and balance.

Sonoma County contains arguably the most abundant sources for Pinot Noir in the state. Combined, the Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast and western part of Carneros account for probably more outstanding Pinot Noir than anywhere else in the state.

The Russian River Valley, which stretches through central Sonoma County, produces many of California’s most celebrated and expensive Pinot Noirs.

2009 Rodney Strong ($20). This pioneering Sonoma winery is making the best wines in its 40+ year history, up and down its extensive portfolio.
2009 Davis Bynum ($35). Making Pinot in the valley since 1973, now part of the Jess Jackson empire.
2008 Sequana Dutton Ranch ($40). This winery is anther successful venture from the owners of the Hess Collection in Napa Valley.
2007 Patz & Hall Chenoweth ($55) This 20 year-old Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialist sources fruit from around the state to make almost exclusively single-vineyard bottlings.

The Sonoma Coast is California’s newest “hot” region for Pinot Noir. It is a large area but already contains several of the state’s most respected vineyards.

2009 La Crema ($24). This thirty year Pinot and Chardonnay specialist continues to craft fine examples of the grape.
2008 MacRostie ($30)
2007 MacRostie Wildcat Mountain ($40). Winemaker Steve MacRostie, who established his own operation in 1987 in Carneros, now is making impressive wines from this new vineyard.
2007 Patz & Hall ($42)

Carneros straddles southern Napa andSonoma and has become a popular source of chardonnay and pinot noir, thanks to the moderating influence of the San Pablo Bay.

2008 Domaine Carneros ($35). This excellent sparkling wine producer has fashioned this wine from organic grapes.
2007 Patz & Hall Hyde ($60)

California’s Central Coast also has emerged as a wellspring of outstanding, though often outstandingly expensive Pinot Noir. Several regions deserve attention.

Certain microclimates of Monterey County have been cultivated successfully by small, quality minded producers. Two wines crafted from selected vineyards within Monterey – 2009 La Crema ($24) and 2008 Pali “Summit” (Monterey and Santa Barbara blend, $29), from a fairly new negociant and Brian Loring, one of the state’s most respected pinot winemakers – are a good introduction to the region.

The Arroyo Seco region in the southwestern corner of the county has produced some good Pinots, like the 2008 J. Lohr “Fog’s Reach” ($35), a fine single vineyard wine from one of the state’s larger wineries. But its the Santa Lucia Highlands overlooking the Salinas Valley that especially has emerged as prime Pinot country, producing some of the state’s most dramatic and sought after Pinot Noirs.

2008 Kali Hart ($21). This is a second label for Talbott Vineyards, one of the stat’s most prestigious Chardonnay producers. Named after the owner’s youngest daughter, this Pinot is made in an approachable style using estate fruit.
2008 Alta Maria ($25)
2008 Sequana “Sarmento” ($32)
2008 Highflyer “Doctor’s” ($38). This comes from the same group that is producing exciting wines under the Sommerston and Priest Ranch labels.
2008 Talbott “Sleepy Hollow” ($40). The is the signature vineyard from this Monterey winemaking pioneer and fine clothing purveyor.
2007 Patz & Hall “Pisoni” ($80)

Farther south, in San Louis Obispo County, the Arroyo Grande Valley and the Edna Valley often are overlooked but produce some fine Pinot Noir. Unfortunately, none were included in my tasting.

Next to Sonoma, Santa Barbara County has emerged as one of the state’s premier Pinot Noir regions, with two great Pinot Noir AVAs. The 2009 Byron Santa Barbara County ($17) offers a good preview of the structure concentration, and ripe flavors typical of the area.

At the northern end of the county, the Santa Maria Valley is home to the famous Bien Nacido Vineyard and a growing number of impressive vineyards. The valley also sources a growing number of wineries. My tastings revealed an impressive portfolio from Byron, one of the pioneers of the area. Byron planted the first vineyard to vinifera grapes in Santa Barbara County in 1964 and has been in the forefront of winemaking achievement in the area ever since.

2008 Santa Maria Valley ($26)
2008 Nielson ($34)
2008 Bien Nacido ($40)
2008 Sierra Madre ($40)
2008 Julia’s Vineyard ($40)
2008 Monument ($60)

Santa Barbara County not surprisingly has experienced the Sideways effect more than any other region, not surprising given that the movie was set there. But the Santa Ynez Valley and the Santa Maria Valley in particular had become recognized for some of the state’s best Pinot Noirs long before the movie. Certain growing areas within Santa Barbara County recently have produced such quality that the county can now contend with Sonoma as California’s best Pinot Noir region.

At the northern end of the county, the Santa Maria Valley benchlands are home to the famous Bien Nacido Vineyard and a growing number of pinot noir vineyards.

From a narrow opening near the Pacific Ocean, the Santa Ynez Valley broadens inland encompassing the vineyards and wineries that inspired the movie “Sideways.” The Santa Rita Hills in the western end of the valley, the home of the celebrated Sanford & Benedict vineyard, has garnered special attention in recent years. The ten-year-old hillside vineyard of Sea Smoke is producing some of the area’s best grapes. Rather than focusing on bottlings of individual blocks, Sea Smoke crafts different expressions of the site. These two new releases, while different (Southing is more elegant and seductive; Ten is more powerful and extracted) are both breathtaking.

2008 Sea Smoke Southing ($52)
2008 Sea Smoke Ten ($80)