Tag: Colorado

Posted on

FOOD & WINE MAGAZINE BRINGS THE WORLD OF WINE TO ASPEN

While the cooking demonstrations and wine seminars are the foundation of the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, another hallmark of the Classic is all the receptions, parties, and other special events. This year was no exception. I had so many invitations, I just couldn’t make them all … and believe me I tried.

 

But I still had many opportunities to discover new wines and meet new winemakers. For me, one of the best things about the Classic is the opportunity it presents to meet winemakers and winery owners and to taste wines from producers whom I seldom or never get a chance to try.

For instance, I had a chance to sit down with Michael Martini, the third generation winemaker for the Louis M. Martini Winery in the Napa Valley. Michael, who has been the winemaker for this family (a family that has an over 100 year old history of winemaking in California) since 1977, was anxious to tell me about (and have me taste) his wines. Mariola Varona Bayola, the Export Manager for Bodegas Martin Codax, also joined us. Martín Códax is a 27 year old Spanish winery that is best known for its Albariño. Confused that representatives of a California winery and a Spanish winery both were at this meeting? Don’t be, both are now owned by the Gallo family. And both were delightful lunch companions. And their wines – Martini Cabs and Codax Albariño – were equally enjoyable.

 

It was a treat to be able to attend a reserve tasting moderated by Master Sommelier Richard Betts on “The Extraordinary Wines of California’s Sine Qua Non.” Now, if you have never heard of Sine Qua Non, don’t worry. That just means you are not a wine geek. Sine Qua Non is a “cult wine” among the cult wines. You can only buy them if you first get on their mailing list and then wait only God knows how long to get in. Maybe you can find one on a restaurant wine list but it probably will cost hundreds of dollars. This is what is special about these reserve tasting’s. They offer rare opportunities to taste equally rare and extraordinary wines.

All of the wines we tasted reflected differing blends of various Rhone varietals – the reds presented different expressions of syrah and grenache, while the whites showed off combinations of roussanne, viognier, and chardonnay. My key take away from the tasting is that the wines definitely lived up to their hype. First and foremost, all six wines showed off beautiful fruit. The use of oak showed in balance with the depth of fruit and acidity.

 

It’s a ritual every year to wander the Grand Tasting Tent, where producers from all over the world display their wares, in the hopes of making new discoveries. As with previous years, I ended up on a sort of world tour. I don’t have room to list all the wines tasted but here are a few highlights.

Although Australia is best known for many great Shiraz, I’m glad I was persuaded to take the road less traveled and try some really outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. From Penley Estate, a highly regarded winery in the Coonawarra region of South Australia, I enjoyed the “Phoenix” and Reserve Cabs and chatting with Proprietor/Chief Winemaker Kym Tolley. From the Yarra Valley region of Victoria, I really was impressed with Pinot Noirs from Giant Steps and Innocent Bystander, partly because one usually doesn’t think of great Pinot Noir from Australia but also because Owner/Winemaker Phil Sexton was pouring and explaining the wines. Before leaving Australia, I found one more wine I also highly recommend: the Vasse Felix “Heytesbury” Cabernet Sauvignon from the Margaret river region of Southwestern Australia.

 

Representing Portugal, the Esporão Assobio, which is made predominantly from touriga nacional, tinta roriz and touriga franca grapes, is a distinguished single vineyard red worthy of any serious wine drinker. If you think the only Portugal wine worth drinking is Port (and Port is great stuff), think again. There is a lot of great Portuguese dry table wine and Assobio is one of the best.

 

Wines from Spain for many years has hosted a whole tent as a separate location within the Grand Tasting park and it is always a great place to hunt for new wines. This year I was especially impressed with the wines at the “Drink Ribera” (that’s Ribera del Duero, one of Spain’s most important regions). My favorites were the Bodegas Montecastro, from high altitude vineyards, and Alejandro Fernandez Tinto Pesquera, from a pioneer of modern Spanish wine. Both are excellent representations of tempranillo, Spain’s most distinguished grape.

 

I finished my tour in the tent tasting several California wines, with the highlights being the following, all really outstanding, wines:

 

  • 2011 Franciscan Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay
  • 2009 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
  • 2009 Simi Cabernet Sauvignon Landslide Vineyard
  • 2009 Franciscan Magnificat (Bordeaux-style blend)
  • 2009 Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
  • 2010 Ravenswood Zinfandel Belloni Vineyard

As for the receptions, the annual Wines from Spain/Jose Andres Spanish Barbecue was another stunner. Hosted at an amazing trophy home/mansion in the mountains above the Buttermilk ski area, there were again delectable grilled meats and shrimp, tasty charcuterie, and a wonderful array of cheeses. Of course, there also were some excellent wines. I was impressed enough with three wines – Bodegas Roda Rioja  “Roda 1,” Bodegas Muga Rioja “Torre Muga,” and Bodegas Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero “C21 Malabrigo” – to actually write them down amid all the happy chaos.

But I was especially impressed this year with the reception for the “Chef’s Club by Food & Wine” restaurant. This is a special restaurant within the St. Regis hotel that features a rotating lineup of Food & Wine Best New Chefs doing the cooking. What was really cool was the collection of fine Colorado artisan producers presenting their creations in the courtyard. Kudos to Continental Sausage (Denver), Licious Organics (Boulder), Linger restaurant (Denver), Quixotic Tilapia Farm (Canon City), Magpies (Eagle), Aero Farm (Lakewood), Outrageous Gluten-Free Baking (Denver), Jumpin’ Good Goat Dairy (Buena Vista), Etalia Gluten-Free Breads (Boulder), Raquelitas Tortillas (Denver), and

Esoteric Foods “Zuke” Pickled Products (Boulder).

 

Needless to say, it was another year of discovery at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. I already can’t wait for next year.

 

 

Posted on

CELEBRATE COLORADO WINES!

It’s been a good year for Colorado Wine.

For the first time since the repeal of Prohibition, Colorado wineries reported more than one million liters of wine to the Colorado Department of Revenue, an increase of 10 percent over the previous year. Over the past five years, production has increased 70 percent and Colorado wines’ market share, though still comparatively small, has grown 30 percent.

Mt. Garfield & the Bookcliffs Overlook the Grand Valley

Doug Caskey, executive director of the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board noted, “In the face of a small, difficult harvest in 2010 [production down one-third from 2009] and ongoing economic uncertainty, our wineries continue to expand.”

There are now 100 licensed wineries (compared to six in 1990 and 64 in 2006) in Colorado.  Front Range wineries contributed 41 percent of the wine volume reported to the Department of Revenue, while the wineries in the Grand Valley American Viticultural Area (along the Colorado River between Palisade and Grand Junction) accounted for 47 percent.  Eighty percent of the grapes grown in Colorado come from the Grand Valley AVA, though grapes also are grown in Delta, Montrose, Montezuma, Fremont, Pueblo, Boulder, Larimer, Weld and Kit Carson counties.

"Divinity" by The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey

And you can find wineries located pretty much all over the state. At last count, the Grand Valley on the Western Slope is home to 24 wineries surrounding the cities of Palisade and Grand Junction, while Delta and Montrose counties to the south, including the West Elks AVA, hosts 19 more. Surprisingly, there also are five producers further south in the state’s Four Corners area. And there are even 12 more wineries and tasting rooms scattered throughout our Rocky Mountains. On the Front Range, there are nine more wineries and tasting rooms dotted around Colorado Springs and Cañon City. Finally, in the Denver/Boulder/Ft. Collins region, wine hunters can choose from 38 wineries and tasting rooms.

Around the state there are now several well worth the trip wine festivals that offer fun opportunities to experience Colorado wines throughout the year. In the Grand Valley, the 20th Annual Colorado Mountain Winefest, the state’s premier wine festival, was just completed. And the Mountain Winefest organizers successfully hosted the first annual Colorado Winefest held last June at The Shops at Northfield Stapleton in Denver.

A Celebration of Premier Colorado Wines was an elegant tasting event held two days earlier at the Governor’s Residence. The event featured wines given the awards from the Colorado-only wine competition judged by national and local wine experts under the auspices of the American Wine Society.

There also are two great Colorado wine festivals off the I-25 Corridor south of Denver. The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey in Cañon City just celebrated the 10th Annual Harvest Fest and Winemaker’s Dinner. The Ninth Annual Manitou Springs Colorado Wine Festival was held in June. In addition to excellent wine and food, these are special community events anxiously anticipated each year.

As the Colorado industry has grown into a fine adolescence, as I have heard Caskey describe it, it seems the challenge for its journey to adulthood is to find an identity. One of the most interesting things to me about the Colorado wine

Ag Commissioner John Salazar and Gov. John Hickenlooper Survey the Bounty

industry is that most growers and wineries for a long time focused on the “Big Three” French varietals – cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and chardonnay. Merlot is the most widely planted red grape in the state, with cabernet sauvignon close behind, but plantings of syrah, cabernet franc and pinot noir are increasing, as wines from these varieties show real promise. As for the whites, riesling is now the most widely grown, which makes sense to me, since I’ve long thought it made the state’s best wine. After chardonnay, there are small but significant amounts of gewürztraminer, viognier and pinot gris.

As for the future, with the diversity of soils and climate in Colorado, I expect to see further experimentation. And as vintners learn more about which grapes grow best where and about what has made other wine-producing region successful (maybe a topic for another column), I expect the already improving quality will advance even further. Finally, let’s hope more restaurants will find room on their wine lists for Colorado wines

And you can help promote Colorado wine during the fourth annual Regional Wine Week. The blog DrinkLocalWine is hosting the event from October 9 through October 15. Wine writers, bloggers and consumers are encouraged to share information about wine from what organizers call “The Other 47” states (no California, Washington or Oregon). Share a story or personal anecdote about a Colorado wine, winery, wine region, or wine event. The only catch is you have to do it in 47 words. For more information about Regional Wine Week and the contest, check out www.drinklocalwine.com.

Posted on

OREGON’S 2008 VINTAGE ELEVATES PINOT NOIR

Over the last decade, Oregon has emerged as one of the world’s great Pinot Noir producing regions. Now, with around 400 wineries, the state has developed into a world-class wine tourism destination.

The Oregon wine industry also has become a leader in the sustainable agriculture movement. This is seen in the increasing number of growers and wineries participating in four related certification programs.

LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology, Inc.) certification promotes responsible stewardship of the land by recognizing practices that reduce reliance on synthetic chemicals and fertilizers and maintain biological diversity.

“Salmon Safe” certification recognizes practices that help restore and maintain healthy watersheds.

Organic certification from Oregon Tilth is awarded to those that meet biologically sound and socially equitable criteria. Many wineries also employ organic and sustainable farming practices without official recognition.

The Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Green Building certification acknowledges achievement in sustainable site development, water savings, energy efficiency, materials selection, and indoor environmental quality.

Most of the wines in my tastings were from the highly touted 2008 vintage and confirmed the vintage’s reputation. As a group the wines show intense fruit and ripeness – yet only one had more than 14 percent alcohol – resulting in wine with power and elegance. They aren’t cheap but most have avoided the price inflation of comparable wines from Burgundy and California. My recommendations from recent tastings are listed below.

Arcachon. This second label for Oak Knoll is named after a community southwest of Bordeaux, which was the home of the founder’s ancestors. The 2008 Willamette Valley ($12) is a very good value; quite flavorful for the price.

Cana’s Feast. Also known for their Italian varietal wines from Washington grapes, the 2008 Meredith Mitchell Vineyard ($48) is supple and balanced with a sense of earth and brown spices with fresh acidity lifting the finish.

Carabella. Owned by a Colorado trained winemaker, Carabella’s first vintage was in 1998. The vineyard, located in the Chehalem Mountains of Oregon’s Willamette Valley has produced an excellent 2008 ($39). Expect admirable complexity from berry fruit, spice and even minerality, carried with good weight and a supple texture.

Four Graces. Established in 2003, The Four Graces is named in honor of the founders’ four daughters. Half of the vineyards are farmed sustainably; the other half using Biodynamic principles. The 2008 Willamette Valley ($29) combines blackberry fruit with earthy, mushroom notes in a firm and, well, graceful frame.

King Estate. Founded in 1991 by the King family, King Estate has grown into one of Oregon’s largest wineries and most popular wine tourist attractions. They also have been pioneers of organic and sustainable farming. The flavorful and firm 2009 Signature Collection ($27) continues a successful streak for this wine.

Ponzi Vineyards. Established in 1970, the Ponzi family and have been leaders in Oregon’s wine industry and the responsible stewardship movement. Truly a family winery, production now is being carried on by a second generation. The vineyards and winemaking are LIVE certified. The winery is a sustainable, gravity-flow facility. And the complex and silky 2008 Willamette Valley ($35) is one of the rewards.

Sokol Blosser. Ever since the first vines were planted in 1971, this family has been leaders in the sustainable agriculture movement utilizing a variety of stewardship practices, including organic farming, sustainable business practices, energy efficiency, and low impact packaging, a LEED certified winery, Salmon-Safe, and Carbon Neutral Challenge. The 2008 Dundee Hills ($34) is 79% organic, with black cherry, earth, spice and good structure with supple tannin.

Stoller Vineyards. The Stoller family has farmed this property since in 1943. Bill and Cathy Stoller became owners in 1993 and began the gradual conversion to vineyards. The new winery is solar-powered and gold-level LEED status. Add Salmon Safe and LIVE certified. The 2007 Dundee Hills “JV” ($25) shows bright cherry fruit and spice in an early drinking style.

Toii Mor. Although founded in 1993, the estate vineyard was planted in 1972.  The owners are focused on farming sustainably (LIVE certified); reducing carbon and energy usage; and employing solar energy and a gravity flow winery (LEED Gold). The 2008 Willamette Valley ($22) was fermented using indigenous yeasts and shows dark cherry, earthy mushroom and toast with crisp acidity.

Posted on

19 Reasons to Consider Wines Made in Colorado

rich mauro the peoples palateI recently attended “A Celebration of Premier Colorado Wines” at the Governor’s Residence and came away with renewed confidence in the quality of Colorado wines.  Hosted by first lady Jeannie Ritter, Gov. Bill Ritter, the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board and the American Wine Society, proceeds from benefit the Governor’s Residence Preservation Fund.

The tasting showcased award winners from a competition judged by experts including Doug Frost (Master Sommelier and Master of Wine), Jeff Siegel (Fort Worth Star Telegram), Bill Nelson (WineAmerica) and local experts from Johnson and Wales University, the International Wine Guild, Denver AWS Chapter, the chef of Charles Court at The Broadmoor, and the sommelier at Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House in Greenwood Village.

Of 213 wines entered by 35 wineries, judges awarded 147 medals.

Some of my favorites:
Alfred Eames Cellars (red blends)
• 2007 Carmena
• 2008 Collage
• 2008 Sangre del Sol
Bookcliff Vineyards
• 2009 Riesling
Boulder Creek Winery
• 2009 Riesling
Creekside Cellars
• 2007 Cabernet Franc
• 2005 Merlot
Desert Sun Vineyards
• 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
Guy Drew Vineyards
• 2009 Riesling
• 2009 Gewurztraminer
Plum Creek Winery
• 2009 Sauvignon Blanc
Reeder Mesa Vineyards
• 2008 Merlot
Talon Winery
• 2008 Wingspan White
• 2008 Wingspan Red
Two Rivers Winery & Chateau
• 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
• 2006 Ruby Port
• 2007 Vintner’s Blend
Woody Creek Cellars
• 2008 Cabernet Franc
• 2008 Tempranillo

Read more: http://www.gazette.com/articles/reasons-104331-attended-recently.html#ixzz19LgCaK4y