Tag: loire valley

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THE PEOPLES PALATE: WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS

THE PEOPLES PALATE: WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS 

(for the week of November 25, 2012)

 

Tio Pepe “Fino en Rama” ($25)

 

Tio Pepe is the well-known brand of Sherry produced by Spain’s Gonzalez & Byass, one of the nation’s oldest Sherry producers, having been established in 1835 in Jerez.

 

Sherry, of course, is the fortified wine produced in the area lying between Jerez de la Frontera, Puerto de Santa María and San Lucar de Barrameda in southern Spain. Fino is the light, dry style of Sherry achieved by vinification of the palomino grapes under a coating of yeast (called “flor”) that forms on the aging wine and prevents it from oxidizing. Then, the use of the solera system to blend different vintages lends complexity to the finished wine.

 

Fino en Rama is a specific version of Fino intended to be as fresh and pure as possible (“en rama” can translate as “raw”). This is achieved by minimal treatment of the wine after it is removed from cask. This year, the Tio Pepe Fino en Rama celebrates the 200th anniversary of the birth of Manuel Maria Gonzalez, the producer’s founder.

 

This Tio Pepe comes from the finest four casks selected in the spring, when the flor is at its thickest. And critically, unlike most other Sherry (even some en rama), this wine is unfined and unfiltered. Nothing is added to clarify the juice or to filter dissolved solids; these are achieved mostly with settling. So you get all the natural components of the original wine and more complexity than the typical Fino (which is normally fined and filtered to stabilize it for transport).

 

The resulting wine opens with hints of butterscotch and caramel aromas accented by lemon, spice, minerals, and that trademark almond character. The palate is fresh, tangy and savory. It shows admirable finesse, even delicacy on the palate but at 15% alcohol, it still finishes with a kick.

 

Fino en Rama (even more so that a regular Fino) is best drunk shortly after bottling. It should be served chilled, refrigerated after opening and drunk within three months. It makes a fine aperitif. It is perfect for cheese, fish, Asian food, egg dishes, nuts and, what else, tapas.

 

Only about 200 cases of this special wine is available in the U.S.; so look for it now.

 

2010 Domaine du Pré Baron Sauvignon Touraine ($12)

 

For most folks, the Loire Valley probably is mostly associated with the dozens of dramatic medieval chateau dotted along the Loire River. For those of us fascinated with wine, it is more importantly a key wine region in France. Although the Loire often is overshadowed by Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone Valley, the region produces an amazing diversity of wines well worth any wine lover’s investigation.

 

Take for instance Sauvignon Blanc. Some know it likely originated in Bordeaux where it has achieved acclaim among connoisseurs, especially those from the Graves district, where it is blended with semillon. But I might argue it has achieved a purer expression in the Loire Valley. And certainly Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume, districts located at the eastern end of the valley, have achieved well-deserved recognition for their renditions.

 

I will be writing more about those wines and others from the Loire Valley in the coming months but here I present an excellent choice for you to experience a fine Loire Sauvignon at an everyday price.

 

The best source for such value priced Sauvignon is the Touraine district, which lies at the center of the Loire Valley. Named after the city of Tours, it stretches along the Loire River and is the Valley’s largest district. “Touraine” also is the regional appellation (sort of like “Sonoma” on a California label).

 

Sauvignon Blanc typically is quite aromatic, light, fresh and lively, with invigorating acidity. Its flavor profile includes prominent herbal notes (sometimes even described as grassy) and fruit notes of citrus, grapefruit and sometimes gooseberry (as often seems most pronounced with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc). In the Touraine, the mostly sandy clay, occasionally flinty soils, yield racy wines that can show some minerality.

 

Touraine de Sauvignon (as it is technically known) may not have quite the complexity or refinement of Sancerre or Pouilly Fumé but from a dedicated grower (like the Mardon family of Pré Baron) it can be eminently satisfying. And with attractive pricing, it is a more than reasonable alternative to its more expensive relatives.

 

This wine, made without the use of oak, shows really nice spicy herb flecked citrus notes and a touch of flinty, smoky aromas. The palate has a fair amount of weight, which carries nice orange and lemon flavors. It is crisp and lively, perfect for light dishes, including chicken, fish and shellfish, and even salads.

 

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COULÉE DE SERRANT SEMINAR EXPLORES THE MEANING OF TERROIR AND AUTHENTICITY

What is special, even unique about wine? What distinguishes wine from other beverages, both alcoholic and non? How do we determine quality in wine? Why does wine matter?

To me these were the essential questions at the heart of a fascinating reserve wine tasting seminar I attended at the recent Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. The seminar was billed as a discussion with Nicolas Joly, owner of Coulée de Serrant, and featured a vertical tasting of his iconic Loire Valley wine, Clos de la Coulée de Serrant.

I describe the wines as “iconic” because Coulée de Serrant is an almost 900 year-old vineyard originally planted by Cistercian monks; because the tiny 17 acre vineyard is its own appellation growing only (the little known) chenin blanc within the larger (but also little known) Savennières appellation; because Nicolas Joly is arguably the leading proponent of biodynamic viticulture; and because the wines regularly receive high praise and high prices (around $90-$100, something pretty rare for wines made from chenin blanc); but also because Joly, his methods, and his wines are revered by many but also invite controversy.

Bobby Stuckey (Sommelier at Frasca Food and Wine) introduced Mr. Joly as a visionary who has spent more time thinking about and practicing biodynamic viticulture than anyone. Mr. Joly began by saying, “It’s all about how energy becomes matter,” a statement that succinctly encapsulates the biodynamic philosophy. He added that the main goal is to fully express the place, in this case the Coulée de Serrant vineyard. Hence, the importance of hat the French call terroir.

That terroir is the middle of the Loire Valley, the region of Anjou-Saumur (just to the west of Angers) where the appellation Savennières (a little further southwest) is the epicenter for dry chenin blanc. The steep, south facing slopes of volcanic soils infused with schist (coarse-grained, layered, mineral and crystal heavy metamorphic rocks) yield wines that, as Karen MacNeil (in “The Wine Bible”) writes, “taste like nothing else.”

That’s why Joly emphasized he is a strong supporter of the French “appellation controlee” system, the whole point of which is to “guarantee” that wines produced in a particular place uniquely reflect that place of origin. It’s also why he says, “I don’t only want a good wine but also a true wine.”

A Savennières typically asserts itself with tight acidity that grips the palate on entry. This and an impressive intensity of fruit enables these wines to live longer than almost any other white wine and even most red wines. The most common descriptors include quince, chamomile, honey, cream, citrus, and stone.

To succeed at his goal to be true to the terroir, Joly explained, requires understanding the farm as a biologically diverse system (even part of larger systems – the earth, solar system) and trusting those natural systems to facilitate the operation of their various components to grow the best grapes possible in a given place.

Once I grasped this fundamental orientation, it made sense when Joly said he is “not a winemaker but a nature assistant.” I’ve often heard the statement that “great wine is made in the vineyard.” At times, it has seemed rehearsed, designed to tell consumers and wine journalists what they expect to hear. Not so with Joly.

So how is the wine “made” in the vineyard? The central tenant of biodynamics, as Joly tells it, is to channel the energy of the vineyard to express itself through the vines into the grapes. As a caretaker of the process, the vigneron’s (or wine grower) role is to assist that energy flow to enable the grapes to achieve optimum balance and ripeness.

Similar to organic agriculture, the vines are tended without pesticides, herbicides or synthetic fertilizers and bioengineering and irradiation are off limits. Mr. Joly explained these destroy the “living agents” in the soil. But, like other practitioners of this approach, Joly will employ homeopathic or herbal preparations that are made using substances found in nature and are intended to act on certain aspects of the plant or growth cycle to release the flow of energy.

Then Joly said something that would be heretical in most oenology schools (and caused nervous giggling in the audience): “If the right decisions are made in the vineyard, there actually isn’t much to do in the cellar.” It made me think of an analogy to the world of high fidelity (vinyl) music reproduction, where audiophiles often point out “true” sound quality depends first on the quality of the phonograph (and especially the cartridge/stylus). In other words, if you don’t get it right at the beginning, you have to engage all manner of adjustments down the line to cover up the imperfections.

Mr. Joly continued, with high quality fruit, all he need do is press the grapes; keep the juice in neutral wood barrels; rely on indigenous yeast for fermentation; and pretty much let it all alone until March, only monitoring development and maybe stirring the lees occasionally. Then, he generally does one racking (transferring the wine from one barrel to another leaving sediment behind) and one light filtration right before bottling.

When all is said and done, though, it still comes down to what’s in the bottle. And to me, the eight wines I tasted (admittedly not blind) were a revelation. Joly told us to not expect Clos de la Coulée de Serrant to taste the same each vintage. And the wines in the tasting didn’t. Sure, there were similarities. Each wine to varying degrees showed strong acidity, luscious texture, honey, and an abundance of mostly stone fruits and citrus. Maybe that was the vineyard speaking.

But each wine did have its unique characteristics. An intriguing salty sea breeze quality reminiscent of Spanish Manzanilla Sherry distinguished the 2009. 2008 was the most highly focused. 2007 revealed tangy butterscotch notes, while for 2006 it was caramel apple. I found the 2004 to have the most intense fruit and honey. For 2003, it was the waxy, lanolin-like texture. 2001 was really different showing fennel and tobacco. Finally, orange notes emerged from the 1999, a 12 year-old white wine still incredibly vibrant!

Some have criticized biodynamics as too mystical and weak scientifically (particularly with regard to the more esoteric practices) but Joly argues it requires a deeper understanding of nature and of farming than assumed with the conventional scientific wisdom. Regardless, the most important benefit of biodynamics, at least as practiced by farmers like Nicolas Joly, is it also gives a guarantee of truthfulness in farming and “winemaking.” You know what you are getting, pure, unadulterated produce that is born of a certain place and no other. And we as consumers should be thankful for committed souls like Nicolas Joly for caring enough to assist nature on our behalf.

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RED, WHITE AND SUMMER: WINES FOR WARM WEATHER SIPPING

Fresh, Fragrant Whites Are Perfect For Warm Weather

What I like most about spring and summer is the blossoming of aromas and how that signals the awakening of life after the rest of winter.  And a cool white wine is just the compliment for the warmer weather. But not just any white wine and certainly not Chardonnay, which is fine but I’m looking for alternatives that are generally lighter and more refreshing.

For my purposes here, that mostly means the so-called “aromatic whites” Riesling and Muscat. These delightful wines are crisp, fruity, and fragrant. And they are natural matches for the lighter foods of summer. It also means the white Rhone varietals – Viognier, Roussanne, and Marsanne, which admittedly are more “Chardonnay-like” but offer intriguingly different flavor profiles.

For generally reasonable prices, these wines also provide a refreshing combination of acidity and in many cases moderate alcohol – perfect for warm weather. They are great as aperitifs or with food. They are especially good with Asian food but would work well with spicy foods, picnic fare, salads and even simple grilled foods.

I’m one of those who think that, all things considered, riesling makes the greatest white wines in the world. In Germany and Alsace it produces aromatic wines of high acid and, unusual for a white wine, potentially long life. The fragrant, flowery aromas lead into fresh green apple, pear and occasionally peach, apricot, pineapple, or mineral flavors are delivered with bracing acidity.

No Alsatians in my recent tastings but a tasty 2009 Rudolf Müller Riesling from Germany (2009, $10 or $24 3L Octavin) offers good everyday drinking. From Australia, the 2009 Chateau Tanunda Grand Barossa ($16) from a cool climate estate vineyard is a good example of how well this grape can do down under. In the U.S., Washington State is making world class Riesling. A recent favorite is the 2009 Seven Hills Columbia Valley ($14). It is made in a refreshing low alcohol style that is slightly sweet. From California, the 2009 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($12) and 2009 Carmel Road Monterey ($14) also are tasty options.

Much to my pleasant surprise, a recent market report announced that moscato is the fastest growing varietal with sales last year almost doubling. I have long been a fan of Italy’s Moscato d’Asti. This floral, fruity, slightly effervescent wine from the Piedmont is made from the partially fermented juice of white muscat grapes. It is sweet, delightfully aromatic and delicate on the palate, low alcohol (6%) and equally comfortable as an aperitif or a dessert wine.

The 2010 Paolo Saracco Moscato d’Asti ($16) is exemplary of the style from a favorite producer. Camposaldo makes a similarly enjoyable 2010 Moscato ($14) from grapes grown in Lombardy. And what better proof do I need of the grape’s newfound popularity than the delightful 2010 Moscato ($7) I just tasted from none other than Australia’s [yellow tail]. The mass producer actually has done a decent job of imitating Italy’s signature style.

One of California’s leading producers of Rhone-style wines is Santa Barbara’s Zaca Mesa. Zaca Mesa was one of the first vineyards in the region, having been established in the Santa Ynez Valley in the early 1970’s. They have released a 2009 Viognier ($20) that offers honey and loads of exotic fruits and a silky texture with a vibrant finish. Their 2007 Roussanne ($25) deals in apricots and figs laced with zippy acidity, full body and an intriguing waxy texture.

Another fine choice is the 2008 Treana White ($25), from one of the leading Paso Robles grower/winemaking families who here has blended Marsanne and Viognier mostly from Monterey’s esteemed Mer Soleil Vineyard into a juicy wine of honeyed citrus and tropical fruits. Washington also is excelling with Rhine varietals. I was especially impressed with Seven Hills 2009 Viognier Talcott Vineyard ($20). The wine explodes with ripe, juicy peach and honeysuckle, with hints of citrus and stone fruits.

Chenin Blanc, native to the Loire Valley, also is a personal favorite. In California, it is usually produced in a fruity, slightly sweet style, though a few brave souls (like Dry Creek Vineyard) make a dry style inspired by the fine wines of Savennieres. I recently tasted for the first time an innovative chenin blanc blend from Pine Ridge, one of the pioneering wineries in the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley. The winery has a reputation as a master at blending. Its 2009 Chenin Blanc + Viognier ($12) is a unique and uniquely successful combination of Clarksburg chenin blanc and Lodi viognier.

The recommendations above are a good start on the summer white wine search. Next comes a quest for Gewurztraminer, Albarino, Verdejo, Torrontes, Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache Blanc, and Pinot Blanc and other good reasons to look forward to spring and summer.

European (And One South African) Reds For Summer Grilling

Although it’s common to think more about white wines as the weather warms, many of us still enjoy a good red, even in summer. I’ve come across several good candidates to match with the season’s grilled and more casual foods.

A fine place to start, maybe to toast the season, is with a bottle of red bubbly. That’s right, red. I suggest the unique Italian sparkler from the Piedmont region known as Brachetto d’Acqui (signifying first the grape, then the town). The 2010 Rosa Regale ($20) from the highly regarded Banfi family is deeply fruited (cherry, strawberry) and exuberant, with refreshingly low alcohol.

As a wine that is generally best slightly chilled, Beaujolais is the ideal red for warm weather. From the northern French region of the same name, Beaujolais is made using a special whole bunch fermentation process solely with the gamay grape, known for a flavor profile of mostly bright red fruits, floral, herbal and mineral notes, and lively acidity. I’ve recently enjoyed several good ones from the highly touted 2009 vintage. Whichever level you choose, Beaujolais represent s one of the best values around.

For a good introduction to the region sample a wine labeled “Beaujolais-Villages.” These are blended from specifically authorized vineyards in the northern of the region. A reliable option here is the 2009 Louis Jadot ($13), which shows a typically lighter but fleshy character with touches of licorice and lively red fruits.

Next try a wine from one of the ten most important villages (or “cru”). Here, a great place to start is with the “Flower Label” wines of Georges Dubeouf, probably the most respected and widely available producer. A good one is the 2009 Morgon ($14), which has richness and depth not often found with many other crus.

There also are single-vineyard Beaujolais that are a real treat for their distinctiveness. Two more from Duboeuf: 2009 Moulin-a-Vent “Tour du Bief” ($17) – quite full and rich, with many layers – and especially 2009 Fleurie “Domaine des Quatre Vents” ($17) – floral, full of ripe fruit, yet balanced and velvety.

From the southern France region of Rousillon near the border with Spain comes another option, this time a blend of so-called Rhone varietals. The 2008 Chateau de Jau Cotes du Roussillon Villages ($16) combines syrah, mourvedre, carignan, and grenache to produce an easy drinking wine of darker fruits and soft tannins.

This time of year, I’m especially fond of Portuguese table wine. While the region surrounding the Douro River in northern Portugal is famous for Port, table wine from the area has become a go-to choice for excellent value. The wines are made with the same varieties used to make Port and even sourced from the same vineyards as each winery’s Port.

The 2008 Dow’s “Valle do Bomfim” ($12) offers bright mixed berry fruit, spicy intrigue and a balance of structure with mellow tannins. The 2008 Quinta de Roriz “Prazo de Roriz” ($17) delivers deep fruit, mostly black cherry, and an appealing mineral note in a stylish frame that also finishes with soft tannins. It probably shouldn’t be a surprise that the region known for making the great Port wines would emerge as a contender in quality table wines.

Finally, for those of you who insist on a Cabernet Sauvignon, I submit the 2008 Glen Carlou “Grand Classique” ($20). South African wines have improved significantly in recent years and this one, Glen Carlou’s signature red wine, is a really fine example of a Bordeaux-style blend. The addition of merlot, petit verdot, malbec and cabernet franc results in a wine with impressive complexity for the price. Strong black cherry and plum wrapped in an oak blanket are accompanied by touches of tobacco and mint. The velvety texture compliments a tight structure.

Whether it’s a classic cab, a hearty Douro, a bottle of Mediterranean sunshine, a refreshing Beaujolais, or an effervescent Italian, you can’t go wrong with red this summer.

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Loire Valley Tasting Showcases Under Appreciated Region

rich mauro the peoples palate
Loire Valley Farmhouse

Last month, the Loire Valley Wine Bureau hosted a trade tasting in Denver at the Sheraton Downtown Hotel. This was a great chance to taste many different Loire Valley wines in one place and to experience the variety and quality the region offers. And there is an amazing variety.

Loire Valley wines, from the geographical heart of France. Most of the important growing regions are located along or just off of the Loire River. They produce a diverse and distinctive range of wines with industry leaders in every category: white, red, sparkling and sweet. After Champagne, the region is the second largest and second oldest in France for sparkling wines (unfortunately, I ran out of time to try them). it is also the leader for wines ordered in restaurants in France, probably because of the wines relatively moderate prices.

In case you didn’t know, Loire Valley wines set international standards for Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc, as well as producing unique local specialties like Muscadet. The Loire Valley also produces truly excellent dessert wines. This tasting also confirmed Loire wines’ reputation for food friendliness.

One thing for sure, wines of this quality and affordability are worth any buyer’s attention. Below is a capsule tour of the region’s main appellations represented at the tasting moving roughly from the Atlantic coast inland to the valley’s eastern border, accompanied by my recommended wines. (Wines marked with ** are my favorites.)

Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine – near the city of Nantes; crisp, dry whites from melon de Bourgogne (also called muscadet) grape

  • 2009 Chateau de l’Oiselliniere ($13)
  • 2008 Domaine de la Chauviniere “Clos les Montys” ($13)
  • 2005 Domaine de la Chauviniere “Granit de Chateau-Thebaud” ($20)
  • 2008 Pierre-Luc Bouchard ($NA)

Anjou – adjoining the city of Angers; earthy reds and off-dry rosés from cabernet franc grape.

  • 2008 Domaine des Rochelles Anjou-Villages Brissac (red, $14)**
  • 2009 Roc de Chateauvieux Rosé d’Anjou ($12)

Savennieres – west of Angers; powerful, dry chenin blanc (known in the valley as pineau de Loire); prized for great aging potential

  • 2007 Domaine Baumard ($22)
  • 2005 Domaine Baumard “Clos du Papillon” **  ($32)
  • 2007 Domaine Baumard “Tre Speciale” ($38)

Coteaux du Layon – straddles the Layon River extending from the Loire south of Angers; luscious dessert wines from chenin blanc.

  • 2000 Domaine Cady** ($23)
  • 1990 Domaine Baumard “Cuvee lu Pon” ($NA)

Quarts de Chaume – a small area along the Layon also producing great sweet nectars from chenin blanc

  • 2000 Chateau de Suronde (biodynamic) **  ($58)
  • 2007 Domaine Baumard ** ($65)

Saumur – large region extending south from the town of the same name; mostly earthy reds from cabernet franc

  • 2009 Domaine des Hauts de Sanziers  ($17)

Chinon – west of the city of Tours, this area is certainly famous among most people for its historic chateau; among wine lovers, though, it’s the distinctive reds from cabernet franc that draw us

  • 2007 Domaine du Beausejor ($13)
  • 2008 Domaine de Grand Bouqueteau “Tradition” ($15)

Touraine – surrounds Tours; a very large area producing a variety of whites, roses and reds; these are aromatic wines from sauvignon blanc

  • 2009 Domaine Joel Delaunay “Le Bois Martin” ($16)
  • 2009 Chateau de la Roche** ($16)
  • 2008 Domaine du Pre Baron ($14)

Vouvray – just west of Tours; chenin blanc in a range of styles from dry to quite sweet

  • 2003(!) Domaine Georges Brunet (demi-sec) ($15)
  • 2009 Chateau Moncontour (sec) ($18)
  • 2009 Clos du Nouys (sec, $22 and demi-sec, $18)
  • 2009 Roc de Chateauieux ($12)

Quincy – north of the town of Bourges at the eastern end of the valley; a somewhat lesser known region (producing sauvignon blanc) that made an impressive showing at this tasting

  • 2008 Domaine du Tremblay** ($18)
  • 2008 Philippe Portier** ($18)

Sancerre – the first of the two world famous producers of fresh, fruitful wines from sauvignon blanc at the eastern border of the Loire Valley

  • 2008 Domaine Brochard ($17)
  • 2008 Domaine de Buissonnes ($28)
  • 2008 Chateau Sancerre ($27)
  • 2008 Guy Saget “Domaine de la Perrier” ** ($25)
  • 2009 Le Hospices** ($21)

Pouilly Fume – on the other side of the river from Sancerre, these sauvignon blancs tend to be fuller and richer

  • 2007 Domaine Alain Cailbourdin “Les Cris” ($22)
  • 2008 Guy Saget “Domaine Saget” ** ($35)

I also appreciated that all the wines presented are locally distributed.  And the importers – Eberhard Distributers, Robert Kacher Selections, Terlato Wines International, Esprit du French Wine Merchants, Old World Imports, Marnier-Lapostelle, Palm Bay International, Pasternak Wine Imports, Michael Corso Selections, Ex Cellars, Pierre Chanier, and Elizabeth Imports – deserve recognition. These are all reliable importers and frankly a good shorthand way of making sure you are getting a good wine is to look on the label for one of these names.