Tag: Louis Jadot

Posted on

Food & Wine Classic in Aspen Celebrates 30th Anniversary, Part 1

It was around Noon Saturday, June 16 when the email came: “Another Kobrand Happy Hour!” It announced a reprise of the importer’s party from the night before.

This sort of thing is fairly routine at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. And this year it was even more so as the Classic celebrated its 30th anniversary. There were so many opportunities to attend receptions, dinners, parties and special tastings, to meet with winemakers, and discover new wines column I had to turn down several invitations and still can only briefly review my itinerary here. And this is what I like most about the Classic: for me at least, it is all about discovery. And this year, we all discovered a new restaurant concept, the Chef’s Club by Food & Wine on Thursday evening at an invitation only event before the official start of the Classic. The restaurant is housed in the St. Regis hotel and will feature menus devised by Food & Wine Best New Chefs. One of the inaugural chefs is Denver’s own Alex Seidel of Fruition. Kudos to Alex!

As always, the official kick off, though, was on Thursday with the Welcome Reception hosted by Trinchero Family Estates. The Trinchero family is one of California’s most influential, producing such highlyregarded brands (in addition to their namesake) as Napa Cellars, Terra d’Oro, Joel Gott, and Montevina.
Next, it was off to Jimmy’s restaurant for a casual dinner hosted by Ferrer Wine Estates and featuringsome of their fine sparklers. While visiting with Eva Bertran, Executive Vice President at Freixenet USA, I enjoyed the Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad ($20) and Freixenet ElyssiaPinotNoir Brut from their extensive line of Cava. I also enjoyed talking and and tasting with Gloria Ferrer (the family’s California winery) winemaker Bob Iantosca. His limited release 2005 Anniversary Cuvee ($45) was especially complex and flavorful.

I concluded this first night at the annual Wines from Spain barbecue hosted by chef Jose Andres. Besidesgreat food, the event featured too many Spanish wines to taste them all or even keep tasting notes but I was impressed enough with the 2006 Bodegas Muga Reserva Seleccion ($40) to write it down in my notesand recommend it here. And that was just the first night! Friday night upped the ante.

At a reception hosted by importer Wilson Daniels, the array of fine winesfrom their international portfolio was truly impressive. I felt like a kid in a candy store, as there were numerous wines that impacted me, from white Burgundy (Leflaive 2008 Pulighy-Montrachet, Laroche 2009 Reserve de l’Obedience Chablis Grand Cru and 2009 Petite Chablis) and Rhone Valley whites (Tardieu Laurent 2007 Hermitage, 2009 Condrieu and 2007 Chateauneuf-du-Pape) to Barbaresco (2005 Ceretto Bricco Asili), Tokaji Aszu (1999 Royal Tokaji 6 Puttanyos), and California Cabernet Sauvignion (2008 Lancaster Estate). Whew!

From there it was a short walk to Mezzaluna restaurant where I enjoyed several delectables with fine wines from Portuguese winery Esporao. My favorite at thistasting was the 2009 Esporao Reserva ($20), an enticing blend of indigenous and international varieties.

Next, it was just across the street to the first Kobrand “happy hour” where I was greeted with a flute of Champagne Laurent-Perrier Brut. I sipped the refreshing bubbly as I chatted with Jacques Lardiere, the great (though now retiring) winemaker of Louis Jadot, the famed Burgundy producer. Then I got myself a taste of his fine 2006 Louis Jadot Pommard “Clos de la Commaraine.)

Saturday night was even more packed. It began with a tasting hosted by the importer Moet Hennessy USA.This tasting featured just one wine, and an Argentinean wine at that: the 2007 Cheval des Andes ($80). This wine, a joint venture between Terrazas de Los Andes and Chateau Cheval Blanc, blends cabernet sauvignon, malbec and petite verdot into a wine that rivals the best of Bordeaux. It was so special it seemed perfectly appropriate that it was the only one at the tasting.

Then it was to the reprise of the Kobrand happy hour. And what a treat it was to have a chance to taste many of the great Lousi Jadot Burgundies, wines even wine writers seldom get to taste. Just look at this line up! 1978 Chevalier Montrachet les Demoiselles1978 Bonnes Mares 1985 Gevrey Chambertin Clos St. Jacques 1986 Batard Montrachet 1989 Vosne Romanee Suchots 1990 Chambertin Clos de Beze 1991 Corton Charlemagne 1996 Beaune Greves 1996 Corton Pougets 1999 Meursault Genevrieres.

After that, I hopped in my car and made my way to the Old Smuggler Mine on the outskirts of the town for the “S’wine at the Mine” festivities hosted by Denver’s Infinite Monkey Theorem (IMT) winery. Paired with multiple preparations of pork products, IMT poured its Blind Watchmaker Red Blend, Sauvignon Blanc, and sparkling wines packaged in cans!

But, quite frankly themost incredible event of the evening (at least for the wine hedonist in me) was the importer Old Bridge Cellars’ gathering of Australia’s d’Arenberg wines hosted by Winemaker Chester Osborn. In celebration of d”Arenberg’s 100th anniversary, they offered library wines and a chance to taste through the new “Amazing Sites” Collection (14 single site Shiraz and Grenache wines). There’s just too much to go into here. Suffice it to say I was blown away by the breadth and depth of quality on display. I hope to write more about these amazing wines later.

The Classic provided me many other prospects for discovery available at the Classic. Next week I will share more incredible tasting experiences in Aspen, this time outside of the Grand Tasting Tent.

Posted on

DRINK BEAUJOLAIS TO CELEBRATE CHANGING OF THE SEASON

Rich Mauro The Peoples Palate

Rich Mauro The Peoples PalateIf it’s been a while since you had a glass of Beaujolais, now is the time to rediscover this refreshing red. Beaujolais is what we wine writers call “accessible;” it’s food friendly; and one of the best values around. It’s also an ideal wine to celebrate the harvest and coming of fall, which also signals its candidacy for your Thanksgiving dinner.

Beaujolais comes from the so-named French region north of the city of Lyon. The only legally approved red grape is gamay and the traditional vinification technique is the whole bunch fermentation process called carbonic maceration. The characteristic feature of this uncommon type of vinification is what is called intra-cellular fermentation, where fermentation occurs within the berries in an anaerobic – oxygen free – atmosphere.

This combination yields wines known for a distinctive flavor profile of fresh, mostly bright red fruits, with floral, herbal and mineral notes, and lively acidity. As a bonus, most are moderate alcohol (12.5% to 13%). The wines are best served slightly chilled and, as I suggested, they are great with food, especially bistro-style cooking and the earthy dishes of the season.

Beaujolais Nouveau, the fresh, quaffable celebration red released every year on the third Thursday of November, is probably the best known wine from the region and I did enjoy the 2011 Georges Duboeuf ($11). But it is the “regular’ Beaujolais that interests me most. I’ve recently enjoyed several good ones from the highly touted 2009 vintage and a few from the nearly as good 2010 vintage.

One of the best vintages in memory, the 2009 vintage grapes achieved ripeness but also higher alcohol, though still lower than the typical California wine. The best still achieve balance, with generous fruit and notable richness and complexity but more structure. 2010 generally was picked later than usual and yielded more typically refreshing wines – quite crisp, ripe and forward fruity.

Wines labeled simply “Beaujolais” come from vineyards in the southern half of the region and typically are light and fruity. They emulate the simple, exuberant style most often associated with Beaujolais. Next in the quality hierarchy is “Beaujolais-Villages” indicating wines blended from vineyards near specifically authorized villages in the central area of the region. These wines generally show more character.

A reliable option here is the 2009 Beaujolais-Villages ($13) from the great Burgundy négociant Louis Jadot. This wine shows a typically lighter but fleshy character with touches of licorice and lively red fruits. Also look for the 2009 Domaine de la Madone ($14) produced by the Bererd family from vineyards with steep slopes, old vines, and low yields that provide fresh and nicely concentrated juice, with good acidity.

Next try a wine from one of the ten most important villages (or “cru” located in the hilly northern half of the region): Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, Chénas, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Régnié, and Saint-Amour. Here, a great place to start is with the “Flower Label” wines of négociant Georges Dubeouf, probably the most respected and certainly the most widely available purveyor. I recently enjoyed Duboeuf’s 2010 well-packed Brouilly ($15) and juicy, welcoming Fleurie ($16).

There also are single estate Beaujolais that are a special treat for their distinctiveness. A good example from Duboeuf is the 2010 Morgon “Jean Descombes” ($17) – quite full and rich, yet balanced and velvety. Another excellent choice is the 2009 “Domaine de la Voûte des Crozes” ($19). Nicole Chanrion produces this Côte de Brouilly by blending several old vine lots. Its intense red berry fruit is offset with spicy herbs and modest tannin.

In some ways, an even more impressive example is the 2009 Cuvee Traditionelle Vielles Vignes ($18) byPierre-Marie Chermette, proprietor of “Domaine du Vissoux.” As suggested in the name, a traditional winemaking approach using grapes from old vines yielded a wine with character well beyond what is expected from its simple Beaujolais designation.

From another estate worth seeking out, this one in Fleurie, is the 2009 “Clos de la Roilette” ($20). The Coudert family owns a small parcel on an eastern facing slope that yields wine with more aging ability than most Beaujolais. It’s admirably complex, with mixed herbs and spices complementing dark fruits and a sleek texture.

Finally, a rarity I must recommend: a white Beaujolais, the 2010 Domaine des Terres Dorées Beaujolais Blanc ($16). From his estate in the south just north of Lyon, owner and winemaker Jean-Paul Brun produces a number of top reds but it is this unique Chardonnay that demands attention. Wonderful citrus, melon and tropical fruit are enhanced with delicate minerality and good structure. It will stand up to any other French or California Chardonnay at twice (maybe even three times) the price.

So, the basic theme here is incredible value. Also, with a couple of notable exceptions, the best usually come from small, artisan, family-owned estates. But most of all, it’s Joie de vivre – the joy of living that this region exemplifies.