Tag: Merlot

Posted on

HOPE FAMILY SHOWCASES THE BEST OF PASO ROBLES

On a recent press trip to Paso Robles, sponsored by Hope Family Wines, our host Austin Hope set the tone for the visit when he said it was his goal to show us the diversity of the region, not just his wines. I welcomed this, not only because Hope’s wines have long been among my favorites but also because I had been to Paso twice before and was eager to see how the region has developed.

 

Paso Robles is the largest American Viticultural Area (AVA) in California. It is also the name of the main town of about 30,000, whose original name was El Paso del Robles (“Passage of the Oaks”). But, after my visits to the area, I think Paso could just be short for “passion.

Austin Hope oversees Hope Family Wines (www.hopefamilywines.com), a family-owned and -operated enterprise encompassing five brands: Liberty School, Treana, Candor, Austin Hope and Troublemaker wines. Austin’s father, Chuck Hope moved his family from the Central Valley to Paso in 1978 to plant wine grapes pioneering families of the region. After growing grapes and developing vineyards throughout the eighties and early nineties, the family became convinced Paso Robles was capable of producing world-class wines and began producing their own wines.

 

They joined a handful of other pioneering families who helped promote the region, not just as a source of fine quality grapes but also as a complete wine travel destination. Today, Austin and Hope Family Wines also epitomize Paso Robles’ reputation for being on the cutting edge, a reputation Austin has fostered by experimenting with Rhone-style blends and multiple vintage wines.

At a tour of the Huerhuero Vineyard, a longtime source for entry level Liberty School wines, on the Eastside of Paso Robles, and of the nearby Hope Family Wines winemaking facility, we learned from General Manager of Vineyard Operations Suhky Sran, Winemaker J.C. Diefenderfer, and Assistant Winemaker Samantha Taylor about the family’s role in developing vineyards throughout Paso Robles and how they work with over 50 family-owned vineyards to produce fruit for the Liberty School wines. The brand had bee created in the 1970’s by the Wagner family of Napa’s Caymus Vineyards and the Hopes collaborated with the Wagners since the late 1980’s to supply cabernet sauvignon grapes. He Hope’s then took over sole responsibility for the brand in 1996.

 

Today, there is a range of varietals that deliver consistent quality for the money and are regularly recognized as a “Good Values” and “Best Buys.” Look for Cabernet Sauvignon (2010, $14), Chardonnay wines (2011, $14), Pinot Noir ($20), and Liberty School Merlot ($16). The wines are made in a more restrained, food friendly style with forward fruit, good varietal character, and moderate alcohol.

 

The Hopes then established Treana Winery in 1996, to produce high-end Rhone-style blends from Paso Robles and Central Coast fruit. JC explained to us the name Treana symbolizes the trinity of natural elements – sun, soil and ocean – that make Paso Robles and the Central Coast exceptional for growing wine grapes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To give us a flavor for what this means, we toured the Mer Soleil Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands near Salinas (our only stop outside of Paso Robles). This Monterey County-based vineyard is the long-time major source for Treana White, one of the first white Rhone-style blends and still one of the most highly regarded. The current vintage (2011, $23) is a blend of equal parts viognier and marsanne. Floral and tropical aromatics precede ripe pear and honey flavors combined with a lush texture and balancing acidity.

 

The Treana Red (2010, $45), which Austin considers his flagship wine, is a blend of cabernet sauvignon and syrah. It combines the depth and structure of a Cab, with the fullness and class of syrah. It is a perfect example of Austin’s willingness to work outside-the-box. Not many wineries were combining Rhone and Bordeaux blends when he created this wine almost twenty years ago.

The Hopes also own a vineyard on the Westside of Paso Robles planted primarily to syrah and grenache, with some mourvedre. Austin crafts wines inspired by the Northern Rhône Valley from this estate grown fruit. Known as the Hope Family Vineyard, it is located 20 miles east of the Pacific Ocean in the Templeton Gap district of Paso Robles. The site’s rocky soils of clay and limestone make it ideal for the Rhône varietals to which it is planted.

 

At this site, we were given a fascinating overview of the sustainable farming practices – certified by Sustainability in Practice (SIP), www.sipcertified.com – employed in the vineyard. Beth Vukmanic Lopez, Sustainability in Practice Certification Manager explained how for over 15 years, SIP has helped growers, vineyards and consumers rethink their approach to sustainability. As Beth said, SIP Certified sustainable vineyards and wines is about looking at the whole farm and considering “people, planet and profit.” In this sense, SIP is complementary to organic practices, not necessarily a replacement. Of course, a winery needs to make a profit to stay in business but that is closely tied to the quality of the wines, which depends on the quality of the grapes, which is connected to healthy vineyards. But SIP practices also consider the well being of the vineyard and winery workers, an often over looked factor. An important element to the success of the program is the third party certification SIP provides using independent auditors.

 

At the winery and tasting room on site, we enjoyed a barrel tasting of 2012 vintage Austin Hope Syrah and Grenache. Austin told us he uses traditional Côte-Rotie as his benchmark in making his syrah. But, being in California, he added he likes his wines to taste like the old world wines “but with a little bit more.”

This approach showed through the current vintages we tasted. The Syrah (2010, $42) displayed a balance of savory and fruit elements. Aromatic, intense and full-bodied, it also was elegant with pure berry fruit, licorice and earthy complexity. The Grenache (2010, $42) revealed characteristics of dried red fruits, earth and spices with good concentration, firm acidity and soft tannins.

 

The Hopes haven’t stopped to rest on these successful brands. Another label, “Candor” was created in 2008. These multi-vintage wines, a Merlot and Zinfandel, are crafted from specially selected fruit from a variety of Central Coast vineyards. They exhibit excellent varietal flavor at a reasonable price. We tasted the Zinfandel Lot 4 ($20) and Merlot Lot 3 ($20), which I found notable for their true varietal flavor and fresh, bright fruit.

 

Finally, the newest label in the Hope Family stable, “Troublemaker,” places Austin Hope’s creativity and willingness to challenge convention on full display. Troublemaker Blend 6 ($20) is a multi-vintage montage of 50% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Zinfandel and 10% Petite Sirah. Its profile reflected its name with brash fruit and lively texture.

While it was great to learn about all the Hope wines, the trip was made really special by the inclusion of visits to some of Paso Robles most notable artisan producers and restaurants.

 

Villa Creek (www.villacreek.com) has long been a destination restaurant for Paso Robles.

Artisan (www.artisanpasorobles.com) grows some of its ingredients at a local organic farm and showcased a distinctive wine on tap program.

Thomas Hill Organics (www.thomashillorganics.com) is a casual market-bistro that serves spectacularly fresh food, not surprising since most of it comes from their own organic farm.

Il Cortile Ristorante (www.ilcortileristorante.com) features exceptional homemade pastas, fresh seafood, and top-quality meats.

 

All of the restaurants craft dishes as much as possible from seasonal, locally grown ingredients from small producers, much of it organically or sustainably farmed. At these restaurants, farm-to-table is not just a marketing slogan. They live it every day. I will say without hesitation these places are as good as the best restaurants in any city in the nation.

 

And as if that wasn’t enough, to give us a sampling of the top quality artisan products being produced in the area we also toured two special places.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A visit to the Kiler Ridge Olive Farm (http://kilerridge.com) with founders Audrey Burnam & Gregg Bone was eye opening. Although it is just minutes from downtown Paso Robles the hilly, picturesque location transports visitors to another location, specifically Italy. Kiler Ridge uses sustainable farming practices and currently maintains 2,500 olive trees – varieties originating from Italy and Sicily.

 

Gregg and Audrey were gracious hosts. Gregg provided us with an extensive overview of his production process and explained in amazing detail why most of the “extra virgin” olive oil we buy in the supermarket isn’t really, regardless of what’s on the label.

 

It was particularly enlightening to me to actually taste the difference. The Kiler Ridge oils were noticeably fresher and displayed distinct grassy and peppery flavors. Greg explained this is because his oils have much higher polyphenol content – he even said, “I’m a polyphenol producer, not an olive oil producer.” Polyphenols are strong antioxidants with many health benefits. Bottom line, though, the oils were delicious but admittedly might be an acquired taste for some consumers used to blander commercial oils.

 

And they presented us with the most eye opening taste sensation I have hade in years: vanilla ice cream topped with sea salt, my choice of Kiler Ridge olive oil and balsamic syrup. All I can say is “wow!” It was delicious with all the savory and sweet elements melding together beautifully.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also took a refreshing break from winetasting for a tour of the Firestone Walker Brewery (www.firestonebeer.com) with Brewmaster Matt Brynildson. Firestone Walker (named for owners Adam Firestone and David Walker) has been brewing since 1996 but moved from Santa Barbara to Paso Robles in 2001. Firestone Walker and Brewmaster Brynildson are one of the nation’s most awarded breweries and are particularly notable for their use of barrel fermentation for several of their ales.

 

I wholeheartedly recommend the next time you are considering a vacation to wine country, make Paso Robles your destination. The number of wineries has grown from about forty 25 years ago to over 200 (mostly small and family-owned) today. But that is only the beginning of this region’s story. Passionate, dedicated artisan producers with a commitment to sustainability are to be found everywhere in the region.

 

Posted on

KOSHER WINES FOR PASSOVER

Passover this year started the evening of March 25th and ends the evening of April 2nd. If you are still looking for kosher wine for your meals and ceremonies, look no further than Golan Heights Winery.

 

Founded in 1983, Golan Heights is owned by four kibbutzim (collective communities) and four moshavim (cooperative communities). From its home base in Galilee, the most northern and generally considered the best appellation in Israel, Golan Heights has from its beginning been a leader in creating and nurturing a fine wine culture in Israel.

 

If you are looking for an affordable, every day sort of wine, try the “Golan” or “Mount Hermon” brands. The 2011 Mount Hermon Red ($12) is a traditional Bordeaux-style blend and the 2011 Mount Hermon White ($12) combines sauvignon blanc and chardonnay, while the 2010 Golan Cabernet Sauvignon ($15) provides good varietal character. These are younger, more accessible wines that still offer good quality and flavor.

 

 

“Yarden” (Hebrew for the Jordan River, which divides the Golan Heights from Galilee) is the winery’s premier label and flagship brand benefiting from Golan’s finest grapes from the best vineyards. This is seen in the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon ($32), which is a bit pricey but is nicely done, with good fruit, full body, and some complexity, though a soft texture for a Cab. It is especially apparent in the 2008 Merlot ($25), which is just plain excellent and a great value. It is complex and full, with good concentration and structure and bright, focused fruit. As with the Cabernet, the alcohol – at 15 percent – is somewhat high for my preference.

Now for dessert. The 2008 “HeightsWine” (375ml, $27) is a type of “ice wine” manmade exclusively from gewürztraminer, where very ripe handpicked clusters are frozen in the winery. Then the whole clusters are pressed gently and the rich, concentrated juice is fermented very slowly over a number of months. This process yields a wine of intense aromatics and flavors of multiple white and orange fruits accented with spice and a luscious texture that would make a great dessert on its own.

For a different type of dessert wine, Yarden has released a new, Port-style wine, the 2008 “T2” ($50). It is made from two Portuguese varieties – Touriga Nacional and Tinta Cao – and fortified with brandy. The resulting wine is sweet; the red and black berry fruit is ripe; and the palate presents nice earth, spice, and chocolate notes. The texture is a bit rough but the wine compares well with most Portuguese Port.

 

Although there are only a few days left, there is still time to enjoy these wines for Passover. And they are of such quality they merit your consideration any time of the year.

Posted on

ITALY’S TUSCANY DEFINES SANGIOVESE (AND A FEW OTHER VARIETIES, TOO!)

Tuscany is the most recognizable Italian state to American tourists and wine consumers. The picturesque, hilly countryside that attracts throngs of tourists also is a vinous wonderland. Dozens of grape varieties are grown here but it is sangiovese that dominates. The most widely planted grape in Italy, most agree it reaches its pinnacle in Tuscany.

Sangiovese is generally agreed to be native to the Tuscan region. It is difficult to describe its typical characteristics with complete confidence because different clones are grown under different environments subject to different viticultural and winemaking techniques. Still, in general expect signature black cherry fruit (though various dark berries can show up) and vibrant acidity, with varying elements of earth, forest, herbs, smoke, and spice. With a few notable exceptions, most are light- to medium-bodied and very dry, with a lean, structured finishing and fairly strong tannins

Sangiovese’s best-known incarnation is as the most important component of Chianti. Chianti is a large region covering most of northern Tuscany. The traditional recipe proscribed blending with various grapes, including white ones. Nowadays the rules have been relaxed and the best wines will be at least ¾ sangiovese and usually more. Still, these wines – as is the case with most European wines – are subject to stricter rules than most American wines.

Basic Chianti today is much better than the wicker basket stuff that made the wine famous in the 1970 and later infamous. Recent improvements in viticulture and winemaking have improved quality considerably. The 2010 Coltibuono Chianti Cetamura and 2010 Castello di Gabbiano are good examples that provide nice varietal character for a mere $10.

Of the seven Chianti subzones, Chianti Rufina is consistently my favorite and always a good value. This is demonstrated by the 2009 Selvapiana, ($17), a perfumed wine, with tight yet silky tannins by one of the area’s best producers.

But for a great leap in quality, consumers should turn their attention to Chianti Classico, the specified zone just to the south of Florence stretching to Siena. Wines from this area consistently produce the best Chiantis. Better vineyards, more attention in the vineyard and cellar yield the essence of Chianti. My favorites from recent tastings listed in order:

2006 Castello di Bossi ($20) – an amazing wine for the money; strongly perfumed, tons of beautiful fruit, velvety texture concentrated and quite rich; shows what can be done with 100% Sangiovese.

2008 Badia a Coltibuono Estate ($20) – made with organically grown grapes and vinified using natural yeast; attractive licorice and tobacco notes, pure fruit, linear but polished texture.

2007 Castello di Bossi ($20) – comes up just slightly short of the 2006 but is still a very good wine; overall similar in style, just a bit shy on fruit but more dried herb and spices.

2008 Castello di Volpaia ($24) – there’s an airiness and elegance about this wine’s lively character; though floral and herbal qualities ground the wine.

2008 Castello di Gabbiano Riserva ($23) – all Riserva must be aged two years plus three months in bottle; but this one is still quite assertive, with ripe fruit and a sleek palate, while displaying mineral and earth notes and dry tannins on the finish.

2009 Coltibuono “RS” ($15) – “RS” is for Roberto Stucchi, the proprietor and winemaker at Badia a Coltibuono. This Chianti Classico struck me as a more “modern” style than the others here, meaning softer texture and tannin, with almost sweet fruit and gentler acidity.

But for many connoisseurs it is the area around Montalcino just south of Siena that is the epicenter for production of greatsangiovese wines. Here, Brunello di Montalcino, unlike in Chianti, is made of 100 percent sangiovese (the local clone is brunello) and by law aged two years in oak and an additional three years in bottle. The wines are big, powerful and highly structured, requiring many years to reach their peak. They also are disproportionately priced. Still, the one in my tasting, the 2006 Altesino ($75), did shine. Its complex aromas and flavors – flowers, woods, mint, spice, minerals, and deep fruit – are presented in a graceful, silky, yet firm, fresh frame and noticeable but integrated tannins.

Rosso di Montalcino, typically made of sangiovese from younger vines, tends to be lighter and earlier maturing than Brunello. Maybe this is why it’s often described as a “baby Brunello.” Though not labeled as such, the 2009 San Polo “Rubio” ($16) is basically a Rosso di Montalcino. It is fresh, ripe, and lively with layers intensity fruit. And a great value

In neighboring Montepulciano, wine from sangiovese, particularly a local variant called “prugnolo gentile” traditionally was so prized it was the wine of royalty. Hence, the name “Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.” From one of the best producers in the area, the 2007 Poliziano ($28) is slightly austere with noticeable tannin but offers rich, ripe fruit.

As in Montalcino, Rosso Di Montepulciano is a good affordable alternative to Vino Nobile. And again the 2009 Poliziano ($15) delivers with rich and spicy, this red exudes juicy black cherry, black currant and pepper flavors. It’s juicy and firmly structured, with a lingering tobacco and black tea finish.

As fantastic as these traditional wines are, it is the Maremma that has created most of the modern buzz about Tuscany. The area covers the south and west of Tuscany stretching from Siena to the Mediterranean coast. In the far south of Maremma in the warm environs near Scansano, Morellino di Scansano is generating much attention. With fine values such as the 2009 Le Pupille ($20) it’s not hard to see why.

The wine is made from at least 85% morellino (the local clone of sangiovese). It starts out a little lean but fills out nicely over the palate ending with a soft finish that seems typical of the region.

Finally, no column about Tuscany would be complete without including addressing the “Super Tuscan” phenomena. As the story goes, a handful of Chianti producers in the 1970’s, led by Piero Antinori, concerned with the declining quality of Chianti, decided to make the best wine they could, even if that meant breaking the region’s rules. The “traditional” recipe for Chianti was established in the 1870’s and codified in the 1960’s. It called for a majority sangiovese blended with canaiolo and significant doses of white grapes (up to 30 percent!).

But this plus a few other unfortunate developments, such as overproduction, resulted in increasingly disappointing (mainly tart, diluted) wines. So, Antinori decided to go his own way and in 1971 released a wine he called “Tignanello.” It was 80% sangiovese and 20% cabernet sauvignon and aged in small oak barrels. The consequence was the wine had to be labeled Vino da Tavola (VdT). This is the lowest Italian wine classification. Such wines, which can come from anywhere in Italy and use any combination of grapes, typically were used for common or bulk wines.

Regardless, Tignanello quickly became one of Italy’s most celebrated, and expensive, wines. Needless to say, many others took notice and began making their own versions. The Super Tuscan moniker soon took hold as a descriptor. Nowadays, such wines are labled Indicazione Geografica Tipica (or Indication of Geographic Tipicity). As with VdT, IGT wines are subject to fewer controls over the grapes used and how the wine is produced but they must be from the specific region designated.

Now it seems every Chianti producer also makes a Super Tuscan. The wines can be 100% sangiovese or some blend of sangiovese with grapes like cabernet sauvignon, merlot or syrah. A really good one I recently tried comes from the Chianti estate Castello di Gabbiano. The 2008 “Alleanza” ($35) is comprised of 83% merlot, 12% sangiovese and 5% cabernet sauvignon. Noticeable new oak adds spice and vanilla to its mineral elements. Full fruit stands up nicely to strong tannins.

But it is really the western Tuscany region known as Maremma where the phenomenon has really taken off. And the discussion here must start with Tenuta San Guido. It was in Bolgheri, a mostly undeveloped region just south of Livorno on Tuscany’s hilly Mediterranean coast, where Piero Antinori’s uncle, Mario Incisa della Rocchetta actually made Italy’s first Super Tuscan in the 1940s. This 100% cabernet sauvignon wasn’t released commercially until 1968 but “Sassicaia” quickly reached the heights of Italian wine and now is legendary. It also is what inspired nephews Piero Antinori to make Tignanello and Lodovico Antinori to make “Ornellaia,” another great Bolgheri blend (cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc).

While wines like Sassicaia are now prohibitively expensive but there are accessible introductions to the region and the style. A good place to start is Tenuta San Guido’s 2009 Le Difese ($30). This is a 70-30 cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese blend. It delivers ripe aromas with oak and tobacco, lots of fruit, spice, and hints of licorice and coffee.

I also found two outstanding values well worth your attention. The 2010 Tua Rita “Rosso dei Notri” ($20) – 50% sangiovese and50% “international varieties” – begins with flowers and spices and some tobacco. In the mouth, its delicious fruit comes richly concentrated. This estate, whose vineyards are located near the coast south of Bolgheri has produced a youthful, yet gracious expression of Maremma sangiovese.

The 2008 Aia Vecchia “Lagone” ($17), from an estate situated in the heart of the Bolgheri countryside, is a blend of 60% Merlot, with the remainder split between Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. It offers intense aromas of spice, chocolate, and tobacco. The palate delivers layers of fruit in a velvety texture. It is a fantastic value.

Interestingly, in recent years, the rules for Chianti have been relaxed to the point where many Super Tuscans could qualify as Chianti and many Chianti’s could qualify as a Super Tuscan. But, even though the Super Tuscans tend to be made in a so-called “international” style (more concentrated, powerful and oaky), the best still are unique expressions of Tuscany – more fruit and intensity but still woodsy, smoky notes and firm acidity giving the wines a lively angular presentation.

The emergence of the Super Tuscans forty years ago challenged tradition and led to fundamental changes in Tuscan winemaking culture. Here’s to building on the past, while embracing the future.

Posted on

CELEBRATE COLORADO WINES!

It’s been a good year for Colorado Wine.

For the first time since the repeal of Prohibition, Colorado wineries reported more than one million liters of wine to the Colorado Department of Revenue, an increase of 10 percent over the previous year. Over the past five years, production has increased 70 percent and Colorado wines’ market share, though still comparatively small, has grown 30 percent.

Mt. Garfield & the Bookcliffs Overlook the Grand Valley

Doug Caskey, executive director of the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board noted, “In the face of a small, difficult harvest in 2010 [production down one-third from 2009] and ongoing economic uncertainty, our wineries continue to expand.”

There are now 100 licensed wineries (compared to six in 1990 and 64 in 2006) in Colorado.  Front Range wineries contributed 41 percent of the wine volume reported to the Department of Revenue, while the wineries in the Grand Valley American Viticultural Area (along the Colorado River between Palisade and Grand Junction) accounted for 47 percent.  Eighty percent of the grapes grown in Colorado come from the Grand Valley AVA, though grapes also are grown in Delta, Montrose, Montezuma, Fremont, Pueblo, Boulder, Larimer, Weld and Kit Carson counties.

"Divinity" by The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey

And you can find wineries located pretty much all over the state. At last count, the Grand Valley on the Western Slope is home to 24 wineries surrounding the cities of Palisade and Grand Junction, while Delta and Montrose counties to the south, including the West Elks AVA, hosts 19 more. Surprisingly, there also are five producers further south in the state’s Four Corners area. And there are even 12 more wineries and tasting rooms scattered throughout our Rocky Mountains. On the Front Range, there are nine more wineries and tasting rooms dotted around Colorado Springs and Cañon City. Finally, in the Denver/Boulder/Ft. Collins region, wine hunters can choose from 38 wineries and tasting rooms.

Around the state there are now several well worth the trip wine festivals that offer fun opportunities to experience Colorado wines throughout the year. In the Grand Valley, the 20th Annual Colorado Mountain Winefest, the state’s premier wine festival, was just completed. And the Mountain Winefest organizers successfully hosted the first annual Colorado Winefest held last June at The Shops at Northfield Stapleton in Denver.

A Celebration of Premier Colorado Wines was an elegant tasting event held two days earlier at the Governor’s Residence. The event featured wines given the awards from the Colorado-only wine competition judged by national and local wine experts under the auspices of the American Wine Society.

There also are two great Colorado wine festivals off the I-25 Corridor south of Denver. The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey in Cañon City just celebrated the 10th Annual Harvest Fest and Winemaker’s Dinner. The Ninth Annual Manitou Springs Colorado Wine Festival was held in June. In addition to excellent wine and food, these are special community events anxiously anticipated each year.

As the Colorado industry has grown into a fine adolescence, as I have heard Caskey describe it, it seems the challenge for its journey to adulthood is to find an identity. One of the most interesting things to me about the Colorado wine

Ag Commissioner John Salazar and Gov. John Hickenlooper Survey the Bounty

industry is that most growers and wineries for a long time focused on the “Big Three” French varietals – cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and chardonnay. Merlot is the most widely planted red grape in the state, with cabernet sauvignon close behind, but plantings of syrah, cabernet franc and pinot noir are increasing, as wines from these varieties show real promise. As for the whites, riesling is now the most widely grown, which makes sense to me, since I’ve long thought it made the state’s best wine. After chardonnay, there are small but significant amounts of gewürztraminer, viognier and pinot gris.

As for the future, with the diversity of soils and climate in Colorado, I expect to see further experimentation. And as vintners learn more about which grapes grow best where and about what has made other wine-producing region successful (maybe a topic for another column), I expect the already improving quality will advance even further. Finally, let’s hope more restaurants will find room on their wine lists for Colorado wines

And you can help promote Colorado wine during the fourth annual Regional Wine Week. The blog DrinkLocalWine is hosting the event from October 9 through October 15. Wine writers, bloggers and consumers are encouraged to share information about wine from what organizers call “The Other 47” states (no California, Washington or Oregon). Share a story or personal anecdote about a Colorado wine, winery, wine region, or wine event. The only catch is you have to do it in 47 words. For more information about Regional Wine Week and the contest, check out www.drinklocalwine.com.

Posted on

RED, WHITE AND SUMMER: WINES FOR WARM WEATHER SIPPING

Fresh, Fragrant Whites Are Perfect For Warm Weather

What I like most about spring and summer is the blossoming of aromas and how that signals the awakening of life after the rest of winter.  And a cool white wine is just the compliment for the warmer weather. But not just any white wine and certainly not Chardonnay, which is fine but I’m looking for alternatives that are generally lighter and more refreshing.

For my purposes here, that mostly means the so-called “aromatic whites” Riesling and Muscat. These delightful wines are crisp, fruity, and fragrant. And they are natural matches for the lighter foods of summer. It also means the white Rhone varietals – Viognier, Roussanne, and Marsanne, which admittedly are more “Chardonnay-like” but offer intriguingly different flavor profiles.

For generally reasonable prices, these wines also provide a refreshing combination of acidity and in many cases moderate alcohol – perfect for warm weather. They are great as aperitifs or with food. They are especially good with Asian food but would work well with spicy foods, picnic fare, salads and even simple grilled foods.

I’m one of those who think that, all things considered, riesling makes the greatest white wines in the world. In Germany and Alsace it produces aromatic wines of high acid and, unusual for a white wine, potentially long life. The fragrant, flowery aromas lead into fresh green apple, pear and occasionally peach, apricot, pineapple, or mineral flavors are delivered with bracing acidity.

No Alsatians in my recent tastings but a tasty 2009 Rudolf Müller Riesling from Germany (2009, $10 or $24 3L Octavin) offers good everyday drinking. From Australia, the 2009 Chateau Tanunda Grand Barossa ($16) from a cool climate estate vineyard is a good example of how well this grape can do down under. In the U.S., Washington State is making world class Riesling. A recent favorite is the 2009 Seven Hills Columbia Valley ($14). It is made in a refreshing low alcohol style that is slightly sweet. From California, the 2009 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($12) and 2009 Carmel Road Monterey ($14) also are tasty options.

Much to my pleasant surprise, a recent market report announced that moscato is the fastest growing varietal with sales last year almost doubling. I have long been a fan of Italy’s Moscato d’Asti. This floral, fruity, slightly effervescent wine from the Piedmont is made from the partially fermented juice of white muscat grapes. It is sweet, delightfully aromatic and delicate on the palate, low alcohol (6%) and equally comfortable as an aperitif or a dessert wine.

The 2010 Paolo Saracco Moscato d’Asti ($16) is exemplary of the style from a favorite producer. Camposaldo makes a similarly enjoyable 2010 Moscato ($14) from grapes grown in Lombardy. And what better proof do I need of the grape’s newfound popularity than the delightful 2010 Moscato ($7) I just tasted from none other than Australia’s [yellow tail]. The mass producer actually has done a decent job of imitating Italy’s signature style.

One of California’s leading producers of Rhone-style wines is Santa Barbara’s Zaca Mesa. Zaca Mesa was one of the first vineyards in the region, having been established in the Santa Ynez Valley in the early 1970’s. They have released a 2009 Viognier ($20) that offers honey and loads of exotic fruits and a silky texture with a vibrant finish. Their 2007 Roussanne ($25) deals in apricots and figs laced with zippy acidity, full body and an intriguing waxy texture.

Another fine choice is the 2008 Treana White ($25), from one of the leading Paso Robles grower/winemaking families who here has blended Marsanne and Viognier mostly from Monterey’s esteemed Mer Soleil Vineyard into a juicy wine of honeyed citrus and tropical fruits. Washington also is excelling with Rhine varietals. I was especially impressed with Seven Hills 2009 Viognier Talcott Vineyard ($20). The wine explodes with ripe, juicy peach and honeysuckle, with hints of citrus and stone fruits.

Chenin Blanc, native to the Loire Valley, also is a personal favorite. In California, it is usually produced in a fruity, slightly sweet style, though a few brave souls (like Dry Creek Vineyard) make a dry style inspired by the fine wines of Savennieres. I recently tasted for the first time an innovative chenin blanc blend from Pine Ridge, one of the pioneering wineries in the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley. The winery has a reputation as a master at blending. Its 2009 Chenin Blanc + Viognier ($12) is a unique and uniquely successful combination of Clarksburg chenin blanc and Lodi viognier.

The recommendations above are a good start on the summer white wine search. Next comes a quest for Gewurztraminer, Albarino, Verdejo, Torrontes, Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache Blanc, and Pinot Blanc and other good reasons to look forward to spring and summer.

European (And One South African) Reds For Summer Grilling

Although it’s common to think more about white wines as the weather warms, many of us still enjoy a good red, even in summer. I’ve come across several good candidates to match with the season’s grilled and more casual foods.

A fine place to start, maybe to toast the season, is with a bottle of red bubbly. That’s right, red. I suggest the unique Italian sparkler from the Piedmont region known as Brachetto d’Acqui (signifying first the grape, then the town). The 2010 Rosa Regale ($20) from the highly regarded Banfi family is deeply fruited (cherry, strawberry) and exuberant, with refreshingly low alcohol.

As a wine that is generally best slightly chilled, Beaujolais is the ideal red for warm weather. From the northern French region of the same name, Beaujolais is made using a special whole bunch fermentation process solely with the gamay grape, known for a flavor profile of mostly bright red fruits, floral, herbal and mineral notes, and lively acidity. I’ve recently enjoyed several good ones from the highly touted 2009 vintage. Whichever level you choose, Beaujolais represent s one of the best values around.

For a good introduction to the region sample a wine labeled “Beaujolais-Villages.” These are blended from specifically authorized vineyards in the northern of the region. A reliable option here is the 2009 Louis Jadot ($13), which shows a typically lighter but fleshy character with touches of licorice and lively red fruits.

Next try a wine from one of the ten most important villages (or “cru”). Here, a great place to start is with the “Flower Label” wines of Georges Dubeouf, probably the most respected and widely available producer. A good one is the 2009 Morgon ($14), which has richness and depth not often found with many other crus.

There also are single-vineyard Beaujolais that are a real treat for their distinctiveness. Two more from Duboeuf: 2009 Moulin-a-Vent “Tour du Bief” ($17) – quite full and rich, with many layers – and especially 2009 Fleurie “Domaine des Quatre Vents” ($17) – floral, full of ripe fruit, yet balanced and velvety.

From the southern France region of Rousillon near the border with Spain comes another option, this time a blend of so-called Rhone varietals. The 2008 Chateau de Jau Cotes du Roussillon Villages ($16) combines syrah, mourvedre, carignan, and grenache to produce an easy drinking wine of darker fruits and soft tannins.

This time of year, I’m especially fond of Portuguese table wine. While the region surrounding the Douro River in northern Portugal is famous for Port, table wine from the area has become a go-to choice for excellent value. The wines are made with the same varieties used to make Port and even sourced from the same vineyards as each winery’s Port.

The 2008 Dow’s “Valle do Bomfim” ($12) offers bright mixed berry fruit, spicy intrigue and a balance of structure with mellow tannins. The 2008 Quinta de Roriz “Prazo de Roriz” ($17) delivers deep fruit, mostly black cherry, and an appealing mineral note in a stylish frame that also finishes with soft tannins. It probably shouldn’t be a surprise that the region known for making the great Port wines would emerge as a contender in quality table wines.

Finally, for those of you who insist on a Cabernet Sauvignon, I submit the 2008 Glen Carlou “Grand Classique” ($20). South African wines have improved significantly in recent years and this one, Glen Carlou’s signature red wine, is a really fine example of a Bordeaux-style blend. The addition of merlot, petit verdot, malbec and cabernet franc results in a wine with impressive complexity for the price. Strong black cherry and plum wrapped in an oak blanket are accompanied by touches of tobacco and mint. The velvety texture compliments a tight structure.

Whether it’s a classic cab, a hearty Douro, a bottle of Mediterranean sunshine, a refreshing Beaujolais, or an effervescent Italian, you can’t go wrong with red this summer.