Tag: Moet Hennessy

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Food & Wine Classic in Aspen Celebrates 30th Anniversary, Part 1

It was around Noon Saturday, June 16 when the email came: “Another Kobrand Happy Hour!” It announced a reprise of the importer’s party from the night before.

This sort of thing is fairly routine at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. And this year it was even more so as the Classic celebrated its 30th anniversary. There were so many opportunities to attend receptions, dinners, parties and special tastings, to meet with winemakers, and discover new wines column I had to turn down several invitations and still can only briefly review my itinerary here. And this is what I like most about the Classic: for me at least, it is all about discovery. And this year, we all discovered a new restaurant concept, the Chef’s Club by Food & Wine on Thursday evening at an invitation only event before the official start of the Classic. The restaurant is housed in the St. Regis hotel and will feature menus devised by Food & Wine Best New Chefs. One of the inaugural chefs is Denver’s own Alex Seidel of Fruition. Kudos to Alex!

As always, the official kick off, though, was on Thursday with the Welcome Reception hosted by Trinchero Family Estates. The Trinchero family is one of California’s most influential, producing such highlyregarded brands (in addition to their namesake) as Napa Cellars, Terra d’Oro, Joel Gott, and Montevina.
Next, it was off to Jimmy’s restaurant for a casual dinner hosted by Ferrer Wine Estates and featuringsome of their fine sparklers. While visiting with Eva Bertran, Executive Vice President at Freixenet USA, I enjoyed the Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad ($20) and Freixenet ElyssiaPinotNoir Brut from their extensive line of Cava. I also enjoyed talking and and tasting with Gloria Ferrer (the family’s California winery) winemaker Bob Iantosca. His limited release 2005 Anniversary Cuvee ($45) was especially complex and flavorful.

I concluded this first night at the annual Wines from Spain barbecue hosted by chef Jose Andres. Besidesgreat food, the event featured too many Spanish wines to taste them all or even keep tasting notes but I was impressed enough with the 2006 Bodegas Muga Reserva Seleccion ($40) to write it down in my notesand recommend it here. And that was just the first night! Friday night upped the ante.

At a reception hosted by importer Wilson Daniels, the array of fine winesfrom their international portfolio was truly impressive. I felt like a kid in a candy store, as there were numerous wines that impacted me, from white Burgundy (Leflaive 2008 Pulighy-Montrachet, Laroche 2009 Reserve de l’Obedience Chablis Grand Cru and 2009 Petite Chablis) and Rhone Valley whites (Tardieu Laurent 2007 Hermitage, 2009 Condrieu and 2007 Chateauneuf-du-Pape) to Barbaresco (2005 Ceretto Bricco Asili), Tokaji Aszu (1999 Royal Tokaji 6 Puttanyos), and California Cabernet Sauvignion (2008 Lancaster Estate). Whew!

From there it was a short walk to Mezzaluna restaurant where I enjoyed several delectables with fine wines from Portuguese winery Esporao. My favorite at thistasting was the 2009 Esporao Reserva ($20), an enticing blend of indigenous and international varieties.

Next, it was just across the street to the first Kobrand “happy hour” where I was greeted with a flute of Champagne Laurent-Perrier Brut. I sipped the refreshing bubbly as I chatted with Jacques Lardiere, the great (though now retiring) winemaker of Louis Jadot, the famed Burgundy producer. Then I got myself a taste of his fine 2006 Louis Jadot Pommard “Clos de la Commaraine.)

Saturday night was even more packed. It began with a tasting hosted by the importer Moet Hennessy USA.This tasting featured just one wine, and an Argentinean wine at that: the 2007 Cheval des Andes ($80). This wine, a joint venture between Terrazas de Los Andes and Chateau Cheval Blanc, blends cabernet sauvignon, malbec and petite verdot into a wine that rivals the best of Bordeaux. It was so special it seemed perfectly appropriate that it was the only one at the tasting.

Then it was to the reprise of the Kobrand happy hour. And what a treat it was to have a chance to taste many of the great Lousi Jadot Burgundies, wines even wine writers seldom get to taste. Just look at this line up! 1978 Chevalier Montrachet les Demoiselles1978 Bonnes Mares 1985 Gevrey Chambertin Clos St. Jacques 1986 Batard Montrachet 1989 Vosne Romanee Suchots 1990 Chambertin Clos de Beze 1991 Corton Charlemagne 1996 Beaune Greves 1996 Corton Pougets 1999 Meursault Genevrieres.

After that, I hopped in my car and made my way to the Old Smuggler Mine on the outskirts of the town for the “S’wine at the Mine” festivities hosted by Denver’s Infinite Monkey Theorem (IMT) winery. Paired with multiple preparations of pork products, IMT poured its Blind Watchmaker Red Blend, Sauvignon Blanc, and sparkling wines packaged in cans!

But, quite frankly themost incredible event of the evening (at least for the wine hedonist in me) was the importer Old Bridge Cellars’ gathering of Australia’s d’Arenberg wines hosted by Winemaker Chester Osborn. In celebration of d”Arenberg’s 100th anniversary, they offered library wines and a chance to taste through the new “Amazing Sites” Collection (14 single site Shiraz and Grenache wines). There’s just too much to go into here. Suffice it to say I was blown away by the breadth and depth of quality on display. I hope to write more about these amazing wines later.

The Classic provided me many other prospects for discovery available at the Classic. Next week I will share more incredible tasting experiences in Aspen, this time outside of the Grand Tasting Tent.

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LOOK TO ARGENTINA FOR QUALITY, VALUE

At the Drink Local Wine Conference recently held in Denver, there was discussion of whether the young Colorado wine industry would eventually develop a “signature grape” the way Argentina has with malbec for red and torrontés for white.

There was no consensus at the conference but it is a worthwhile conversation. The popularity of wine from Argentina with American consumers has been growing for a good decade now, largely due to its success with these two varieties of European origin that have adapted so well to Argentina’s terroir.

Malbec, a minor blending grape in Bordeaux (though important in Cahors) experiences some sort of alchemy in these high desert South American soils. Mendoza in the northern part of the country is the primary source, though other regions have gotten into the act successfully. Warm days and cool nights drape the alluvial soils of the high altitude vineyards in the shadows of the Andes Mountains, making an ideal home for the grape.

The synergy of these elements typically yields wine’s that are approachable, juicy and fruit-driven. With this profile and prices for most at $20 or less, Argentinean Malbec has captivated American consumers. Some even have reached levels on a par with top Bordeaux and Napa Valley wines but the action for most of us is in this value range. Below are several new releases (only one will set you back serious money) listed in order of preference but all are recommended.

Nicolas Catena arguably is the best-known and most highly regarded producer in Argentina. His family produces a number of topnotch wines under the name Bodega Catena Zapata. But the “Catena” estate series provides the most accessible wines and best values. The 2008 Catena ($22) is plush, with copious cherry and black fruit and spice notes. Immensely enjoyable now it will drink well for at least 5 years.

As Argentina’s potential become apparent, producers from major growing regions began to take notice, starting wineries and entering into joint ventures with local producers. One such collaboration took place in 1998 when Nicolas Catena and Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) created Bodegas Caro to produce a single wine, a blend of malbec and cabernet sauvignon. [The featured image for this post shows Caro’s vineyards.] The wine has been acclaimed ever since its first vintage in 2000. The 2007 Caro ($50) is intense and complex, firm with good depth. With 60% Malbec and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, it offers mixed berries, brown spices and toasty notes in a firm yet refined texture.

Susana Balbo is widely considered one of Argentina’s best winemakers. Wine reviewers regularly declare her wines “best values.” The 2008 Suzanna Balbo “Signature” ($25) continues the streak. It begins with toasty oak and brown spices, then offers black cherry and raspberry, with excellent depth and a solid grip.


La Posta is a brand resulting from another collaboration with Argentinean growers and (in this case) an American partner, the importer Vine Connections. It focuses mostly on single vineyard wines from select growers. The 2009 “Pizzella Family Vineyard” ($17) is a fine value with earthy, forest-like notes complementing ripe black cherry fruit and mild tannins.

Terrazas de los Andes is a project of French luxury goods company Moet Hennessy. After renovating a 100 year-old winery, they released their first wine in 1995. The 2009 Reserva ($18) shows a lot of juicy fruit, with good depth and a touch of mineral and fairly strong tannins.

The 2009 La Posta “Angel Paulucci Vineyard” ($17) delivers interesting earthy and herbal aromas and tangy dark berry fruit with a touch of cola and a smooth texture.

The 2010 Aruma ($16) is a new, lower-priced wine from Bodegas Caro. All malbec, it has smoky, meaty and herbal aromas followed by sweet fruit and soft tannins.

Rutini Wines dates to 1885 when the Rutini family began growing grapes in Argentina. It is now owned partially by Nicolas Catena. The Trumpeter series is the winery’s value line. The 2010 Trumpeter ($11) shows straightforward plum and berries with a slight herbal note.

The most interesting white wine comes from torrontés, which is unique to Argentina but has been shown to bethe offspring of Mediterranean varieties. It grows most successfully in the soils of the northern regions of La Rioja and especially Salta. Here, the grape makes aromatic wines, with spice and floral accents. Expect stone fruits, citrus, pear, or tangerine and a light, crisp body. The best of my tasting was the 2011 Colome ($15). It revealed lemon, apricot, and tropical fruits and flavors, with good depth and a refreshing finish. The 2010 Trumpeter ($11) was simple but tasty with lemon and nice creamy, brioche notes.