Tag: Muscat

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A QUICK TRIP TO SPAIN

When I first got interested in wine (way too long ago to admit) Spanish wine basically was a go-to choice for good values for every day drinking. Even the storied Rioja seemed an afterthought in discussions of the world’s finest wines. That seemed largely true even twenty years ago, when I first started writing about wine.

 

Well, that’s so Twentieth Century. Today, Spanish wines must be included in any serious discussion of the world’s finest wines but what’s really cool is there still are plenty of great everyday values.

 

In the fine wine category, I include two recently tasted wines from two highly respected producers. Bodegas RODA was founded in the late 1980s by Maria Rottlant and Carmen Dauvella. This is a thoroughly modern winery making thoroughly modern wines but wines that pay tribute to the centuries old traditions of the Rioja. Each vintage, the seventeen best vineyards (all vines are 30-100 years old) are selected to ferment separately and then three blends are fashioned to express different styles of tempranillo, Spain’s signature red grape.

 

The 2006 RODA Reserva ($45) is 100 percent tempranillo aged in French oak of which half is new. It shows textbook red berry fruit character, though maybe a bit sweet. That is offset with toasty, earthy, smoky notes and fresh acidity. It finishes with elegant, supple tannins.

 


In nearby Toro, we find more evidence of the modern winemaking renaissance in Spain and Bodegas Farina is one of the leaders, which is interesting in that it also is one of the oldest family wineries in the region, founded in 1942. It wasn’t long ago Toro was virtually unknown outside of Spain.Not so today and wines like the 2006 Gran Dama de Toro ($45) are the reasons why. The wine is full-bodied and intense. It opens with aromas of oak, black fruits, bacon, and toast. It is packed with dense blackberry, cherry, and plum fruit accented with an herbal touch. Highly structured with strong tannins, it finishes surprisingly harmonious.As I mentioned, there are still countless good value, everyday wines from Spain. I found several in my tasting. 

Another region that has witnessed revitalization is the home of the “Man of La Mancha.” While this area is believed to be the largest single winegrowing region in the world, with most of the vineyard land given over to growing grapes for brandy or bulk wine, a number of entrepreneurs have embarked on a seemingly Quixotic quest to grow fine premium table wines. One such winery is Finca Constancia, near Toledo in the La Mancha region of Central Spain southwest of Madrid. It is owned by González Byass, a leading producer (founded in 1835 and still family owned and managed) of Spanish wines, Sherries and liqueurs, with the most notable brand being Tio Pepe. Finca Constancia was created as a single estate property to produce single parcel wines similar to the principles of Bordeaux.

 

The vineyard is planted to numerous international varietals (cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cabernet franc, petit verdot, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay) but also many indigenous varietals (tempranillo, graciano, verdejo and garnacha. With the designation “Vino de la Tierra de Castilla,” the wines below are built upon both new plantings and existing vineyards and take advantage of the more flexible production techniques under the Denomination of Origin laws.

 

  • Finca Constancia Red Blend ($15). A blend of syrah, cabernet franc and garnacha; herbal notes compliment cherry fruit and spice; soft feel but lifted with crisp acidity.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 23 ($20). 100 percent tempranillo, single vineyard; deep, dark fruit, light spice; though a little thin in the middle, it’s concentrated, fresh dark berries and woodsy spices please.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 52 ($20). A 100 percent verdejo, single vineyard white wine ringer; quite aromatic, light and fresh, with brisk limejuice accented with green herb notes and a lively spritz.
  •  2010 Altos de la Finca ($35). From the highest vineyards on the estate, this creative blend of petite verdot and syrah for the extra money adds admirable intensity with deep black fruits, dusty oaky notes followed by a nicely dry finish.
I was quite pleased to find several values from Rioja, the most famous Spanish wine growing region in the southern part of the Basque country. First up are two from Bodegas Bilbainas, which was founded in 1859 and today is the largest estate in the Rioja Alta and fourth largest in all of Rioja.

 

The 2009 Vina Pomal ($12) takes its name from a 108-year-old vineyard, though the grapes are from 10- to 20-year-old vines. It is a fairly traditional Rioja of 100 percent Tempranillo (interestingly aged in 90% American oak). It is designated a Crianza, meaning it has been aged a minimum of one year, with six months in barrel. I liked the earthy red fruits of this straightforward but tasty wine, with its lively palate and lively mouthfeel.

 

Another vineyard lends its name to the 2011 Vina Zaco ($15). Also 100 percent Tempranillo from 10- to 20-year-old vines, it is best understood as a new style Rioja. And it’s an excellent style. Aged equally in American and French oak, it opens with bright cherry and raspberry. The palate has good weight and depth. It is quite full and flavorful, with a juicy finish and aftertaste.

The ancestors of the Bodegas Miguel Ángel Muro have been making wine since 1892 and growing wine grapes even longer. Miguel’s 2008 “Muro Bujanda” Rioja Crianza ($14) is just a fantastic value. Bright cherry and red currant aromas join roasted and lightly creamy notes. Similar flavor profile marks the intense fruit and touches of spice.

 

Founded over a century ago in the Rioja Alavesa by the grandfather of the current owner, Ruiz de Vinaspro makes wines from vines that range from 40-100 years of age. The 2007 Ruiz de Vinaspro Rioja ($15) is 100 percent tempranillo. It sports toasty blueberry and blackberry fruit. The palate is very dry mixing fresh tannins and woodsy herbs with lively wild berry fruit. A little closed at first, it opens up nicely with time.

 

Finally, just in time for summer, the 2010 Bodegas Sumarroca “Temps Flors” ($14) if a delightful, refreshing wine. Sumarroca is located in the Penedes region of Catalonia near Barcelona. The name translates to “time of the flowers” and the unique blend of xarel-lo Muscat and gewürztraminer mirrors that expression in the wine’s aroma (though it’s actually named after a local flower festival). This fruity, off-dry wine sports appealing fruity notes of lychee and tropical fruits balanced with good fruit intensity, perfect for quaffin

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A QUICK TRIP TO SPAIN

When I first got interested in wine (way too long ago to admit) Spanish wine basically was a go-to choice for good values for every day drinking. Even the storied Rioja seemed an afterthought in discussions of the world’s finest wines. That seemed largely true even twenty years ago, when I first started writing about wine.

 

Well, that’s so Twentieth Century. Today, Spanish wines must be included in any serious discussion of the world’s finest wines but what’s really cool is there still are plenty of great everyday values.

 

In the fine wine category, I include two recently tasted wines from two highly respected producers. Bodegas RODA was founded in the late 1980s by Maria Rottlant and Carmen Dauvella. This is a thoroughly modern winery making thoroughly modern wines but wines that pay tribute to the centuries old traditions of the Rioja. Each vintage, the seventeen best vineyards (all vines are 30-100 years old) are selected to ferment separately and then three blends are fashioned to express different styles of tempranillo, Spain’s signature red grape.

 

The 2006 RODA Reserva ($45) is 100 percent tempranillo aged in French oak of which half is new. It shows textbook red berry fruit character, though maybe a bit sweet. That is offset with toasty, earthy, smoky notes and fresh acidity. It finishes with elegant, supple tannins.

 


In nearby Toro, we find more evidence of the modern winemaking renaissance in Spain and Bodegas Farina is one of the leaders, which is interesting in that it also is one of the oldest family wineries in the region, founded in 1942. It wasn’t long ago Toro was virtually unknown outside of Spain.Not so today and wines like the 2006 Gran Dama de Toro ($45) are the reasons why. The wine is full-bodied and intense. It opens with aromas of oak, black fruits, bacon, and toast. It is packed with dense blackberry, cherry, and plum fruit accented with an herbal touch. Highly structured with strong tannins, it finishes surprisingly harmonious.As I mentioned, there are still countless good value, everyday wines from Spain. I found several in my tasting. 

Another region that has witnessed revitalization is the home of the “Man of La Mancha.” While this area is believed to be the largest single winegrowing region in the world, with most of the vineyard land given over to growing grapes for brandy or bulk wine, a number of entrepreneurs have embarked on a seemingly Quixotic quest to grow fine premium table wines. One such winery is Finca Constancia, near Toledo in the La Mancha region of Central Spain southwest of Madrid. It is owned by González Byass, a leading producer (founded in 1835 and still family owned and managed) of Spanish wines, Sherries and liqueurs, with the most notable brand being Tio Pepe. Finca Constancia was created as a single estate property to produce single parcel wines similar to the principles of Bordeaux.

 

The vineyard is planted to numerous international varietals (cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cabernet franc, petit verdot, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay) but also many indigenous varietals (tempranillo, graciano, verdejo and garnacha. With the designation “Vino de la Tierra de Castilla,” the wines below are built upon both new plantings and existing vineyards and take advantage of the more flexible production techniques under the Denomination of Origin laws.

 

  • Finca Constancia Red Blend ($15). A blend of syrah, cabernet franc and garnacha; herbal notes compliment cherry fruit and spice; soft feel but lifted with crisp acidity.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 23 ($20). 100 percent tempranillo, single vineyard; deep, dark fruit, light spice; though a little thin in the middle, it’s concentrated, fresh dark berries and woodsy spices please.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 52 ($20). A 100 percent verdejo, single vineyard white wine ringer; quite aromatic, light and fresh, with brisk limejuice accented with green herb notes and a lively spritz.
  •  2010 Altos de la Finca ($35). From the highest vineyards on the estate, this creative blend of petite verdot and syrah for the extra money adds admirable intensity with deep black fruits, dusty oaky notes followed by a nicely dry finish.
I was quite pleased to find several values from Rioja, the most famous Spanish wine growing region in the southern part of the Basque country. First up are two from Bodegas Bilbainas, which was founded in 1859 and today is the largest estate in the Rioja Alta and fourth largest in all of Rioja.

 

The 2009 Vina Pomal ($12) takes its name from a 108-year-old vineyard, though the grapes are from 10- to 20-year-old vines. It is a fairly traditional Rioja of 100 percent Tempranillo (interestingly aged in 90% American oak). It is designated a Crianza, meaning it has been aged a minimum of one year, with six months in barrel. I liked the earthy red fruits of this straightforward but tasty wine, with its lively palate and lively mouthfeel.

 

Another vineyard lends its name to the 2011 Vina Zaco ($15). Also 100 percent Tempranillo from 10- to 20-year-old vines, it is best understood as a new style Rioja. And it’s an excellent style. Aged equally in American and French oak, it opens with bright cherry and raspberry. The palate has good weight and depth. It is quite full and flavorful, with a juicy finish and aftertaste.

The ancestors of the Bodegas Miguel Ángel Muro have been making wine since 1892 and growing wine grapes even longer. Miguel’s 2008 “Muro Bujanda” Rioja Crianza ($14) is just a fantastic value. Bright cherry and red currant aromas join roasted and lightly creamy notes. Similar flavor profile marks the intense fruit and touches of spice.

 

Founded over a century ago in the Rioja Alavesa by the grandfather of the current owner, Ruiz de Vinaspro makes wines from vines that range from 40-100 years of age. The 2007 Ruiz de Vinaspro Rioja ($15) is 100 percent tempranillo. It sports toasty blueberry and blackberry fruit. The palate is very dry mixing fresh tannins and woodsy herbs with lively wild berry fruit. A little closed at first, it opens up nicely with time.

 

Finally, just in time for summer, the 2010 Bodegas Sumarroca “Temps Flors” ($14) if a delightful, refreshing wine. Sumarroca is located in the Penedes region of Catalonia near Barcelona. The name translates to “time of the flowers” and the unique blend of xarel-lo Muscat and gewürztraminer mirrors that expression in the wine’s aroma (though it’s actually named after a local flower festival). This fruity, off-dry wine sports appealing fruity notes of lychee and tropical fruits balanced with good fruit intensity, perfect for quaffin

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WHAT’S COLD, DRY, LIGHT AND WHITE ALL OVER … AND JUST IN TIME FOR JANUARY?

PEOPLE’S PALATE WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR JANUARY 7, 2013

No, it’s not snow. It’s white wine from France, at least for the purposes of this column.

 

I admit I usually prefer red wines (and Port!) during the cold months but recently I suddenly had a hankering for some crisp whites, cold weather be damned. These wines from Alsace and Loire really hit the spot. So, I thought I’d share them with you. And, keeping in mind your post-holiday bank accounts may be somewhat depleted, all are under $20 a bottle.

 

Something like 92 percent of all Alsatian wine is white. Unlike other French regions, the best wines (those whose appellation of origin is controlled by law, known as A.O.C.) are labeled with the name of the grape variety (and the wine inside is 100 percent). Of particular interest to me, the region is the premier home of my two favorite white grape varieties – riesling (although Germany ranks here, too) and gewürztraminer.

At their best, these wines have excellent fruit intensity, intriguing savory notes, and fine balancing acidity. And Pierre Sparr is one of the best producers. The firm’s entry-level wines (all screw capped) are excellent introductions to the region. The 2011 Riesling ($15) is lightly floral with juicy lime and peach fruit, a stony element and firm acidity. The 2011 Gewurztraminer ($17) delights with intense aromas of tangerine, peach and pear and off dry, textbook lychee flavors, with a touch of anise in a rich, oily texture wine. The 2010 Alsace One ($13) is a blend of muscat, riesling and pinot gris. It is fragrant and floral with lively tropical, apple and mineral notes, good acidity and a crisp finish.

 

At the far west end of the Loire Valley within reach of the Atlantic Ocean’s salty breezes lies the Muscadet appellation. There is much unique about the wines here. Melon de Bourgogne is the only grape variety grown and it is virtually unique to this region, even though it originated in Burgundy. These wines are one of the great accompaniments to fish and seafood, and especially oysters.

 

My favorites come from the Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine area, located between the two rivers in the name. The terrior – igneous and metamorphic rock and the influence of the ocean – produces very dry wines but they are light and crisp, with fresh citrus (lemon, lime, grapefruit) aromas that evoke the ocean breeze, brisk acidity offset with minerality, and a tangy, occasionally slightly bitter finish. They are vinified sur lie in which the lees (yeast cells remaining after fermentation) are kept in the wine until bottling to enhance the lively character. The 2009 Andre Michel Bregeon ($16) really evokes the saline spray of the nearby ocean and those oysters you’ll be eating with it. The 2010 Domaine de la Quilla ($13) shows more of the stony minerality. Finally, the 2008 les Clissages D’Or ($16) emphasizes the citrus and herbal qualities.

 

 

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LOTS OF BUBBLES TO MAKE YOUR NEW YEAR SPARKLE

PEOPLE’S PALATE WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR DECEMBER 26, 2012

LOTS OF BUBBLES TO MAKE YOUR NEW YEAR SPARKLE

 

Although sparkling wine is always an appropriate choice for any occasion any time of year, no question the New Year, with all its toasts and “Champagne” brunches, are prime time for indulging a bit of bubbly. And effervescent wine is so popular, there are versions made in virtually every wine region.

 

Champagne

 

The benchmark for sparkling wine is that made in the Champagne region of northwestern France. Cool climate, limestone laced soils, and a nearly 300 year singular focus on the style (the “traditional method” – secondary fermentation in the bottle to capture the ”stars”) means Champagne is the benchmark for all things foamy. It also means the stuff is quite expensive. So, I suspect in most cases you will be looking for a nonvintage Brut. It’ll still set you back a pretty penny but with a top producer (like the two here) you’ll still get something special.

Charles Heidsieck. One of the oldest and most prestigious Champagne houses, established in 1851, the Charles Heidsieck house style typically is one the most complex and bold. Equal parts pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot meunier, with 40 percent reserve wines – some 10-15 years old – the Brut Reserve ($65) packs toasty brioche, pear and tropical fruits, with nutty notes in an amazingly lush frame. Even given the considerable cash commanded by Champagne, the Brut Reserve delivers a lot of wine for the money. 

Lanson. Over 250 years old (the fourth oldest Champagne house), Lanson has been absent from the U.S. market for a while but was recently reintroduced here. Lanson always was one of my favorite Champagnes, so I’m glad they’re back. And the Brut Rosé ($60) doesn’t disappoint. With 53 percent pinot noir, 32 percent chardonnay and 15 percent pinot meunier, the wine is exceedingly fresh and aromatic. This may be because Lanson eschews malolactic fermentation, meaning its wines typically retain more pure fresh fruit character. This one is loaded, with biscuit and floral aromas, red berry and citrus flavors and comes with an elegant texture.

 

Crémant

 

Beyond Champagne, there still are a wide variety of (mostly) more affordable choices for you. In France, Crémant is a term used to designate a high quality sparkling wine made using specified quality control practices including the “methode traditionnelle.”

 

Pierre Sparr Crémant d’Alsace. The Sparr family winery was established an amazingly long time ago in 1680. Pierre Sparr has access to many of the region’s finest vineyards, so maybe it shouldn’t be a surprise this is a highly respected producer. The Brut Reserve ($19) is 80 percent pinot blanc, 20 percent pinot auxerrois. The nose suggests the assertive melon, tropical and citrus fruit that dominates the palate. Fine mousse tickles the palate with minerals and hints of nuts. A fantastic value. The Brut Rosé ($19) is 100 percent pinot noir with fresh aromas of soft red berries and delicate, fruity flavors and lively acidity.

 

Gerard Bertrand Crémant de Limoux. Limoux, a small town and appellation in the Languedoc-Rousillon region of Mediterranean France, lays claim to producing sparkling wine by a second fermentation in the bottle long before Champagne.  Crémant de Limoux traces its history to 1531 and Benedictine monks at the abbey of Saint-Hilaire. Bertrand’s 2010 Crémant de Limoux ($16) is a blend of 70 percent chardonnay, 20 percent chenin blanc and 10 percent mauzac, the indigenous grape which used to dominate all Limoux sparkling wine. There is enticing flowery, citrus and toast on the nose and pleasant pear, apple and lemon flavors. I found the palate to show refined, frothy bubbles.

 

Prosecco

 

Prosecco from the Veneto region of northeastern Italy has become an extremely popular sparkling wine choice in recent years. Prosecco (the name of the production zone, while glera is the dominant grape), unlike the other sparklers in this report is produced using the Charmat Method. In this case, the bubbles are produced by inducing the second fermentation in a pressurized tank. The attraction is in fresh aromas and clean, delicate fruit, frizzante bubbles and low alcohol.

 

Valdo. Valdo Spumanti was established in 1926 and has been owned by the Bolla family since 1940. The Valdo Brut DOC ($12) opens with floral aromas and delivers lively, fruity pear and apple flavors. Valdo also has released a new Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut. Designated “Oro Puro” ($16), Prosecco’s fresh, lively style certainly is present but there is evidence of greater complexity and fuller flavors as the grapes are from the finest (usually higher altitude) hillside estate vineyards and the wine undergoes an extended aging period. Also consider Valdo’s Nerello Mascalese Rosé ($14), in which the nerello grape adds color, raspberry and spice to the blend. It’s not Prosecco but is similar in style.

 

Mionetto. Another one of Prosecco’s top producers, Mionetto traces its origin to 1887. They also areone of the zone’s most creative, as evidenced by the lighter, gently-sparkling and lower alcohol style of Mionetto’s “IL” ($13). The fruity aroma of pear and citrus is followed by a fresh and crisp wine with apple and peach flavors. The Mionetto Prosecco Brut DOC Treviso ($15) is a bit floral and more intensely fruity with notes of apple and citrus. It also is drier and pleasantly brisk.

 

Enza. Enza Extra Dry ($15) is a new brand produced for the importer W.J. Deutsch by the Cantina Colli del Soligo, a cooperative of growers throughout the Veneto. The slightly higher residual sugar is nicely balanced with just the right touch of acidity. The delicate bouquet offers with scents of pear and apple with a lightly floral, while the mouth also exhibits citrus and peach.

 

Moscato and Moscato d’Asti

 

You have to give the Italians credit for creativity and their fascination with spumante. As much as they are rightly recognized for their red wines, I have been told the Italians are just as proud of their sparkling wines. In addition to Prosecco and the impressive Franciacorta (none reviewed here), the Piemontese have come up with one of the most delightful of all. Made from the moscato bianco (white Muscat) grape in the vineyards surrounding the town of Asti, moscato d’Asti is enticingly aromatic, delightfully sweet, slightly fizzy (frizzante), and very low alcohol (5.5%), making it perfect as an aperitif or a dessert wine.


Vietti Moscato d’Asti. With a 200 year tradition of winemaking, this highly regarded producer is recognized as one of the first in the Piemonte to bottle single-vineyard wines and for pioneering the resurrection of the indigenous areneis white grape.  They also make one of the best Moscato d’Asti. The 2012 “Cascinetta” ($15) uses only the best moscato grapes with extended maturation. The resulting wine intense aromas of honey, peach and orange, with hints of spice and a suggestion of flowers. On the palate, it is loaded with apple, pear and lemon, while its delicate sweetness is balanced with bracing acidity leading to a fresh finish.

 

 

Caposaldo Moscato. Caposaldo is a brand brought to the U.S. by the importer Kobrand. The Moscato IGT ($10) actually is not a Moscato d’Asti but I include it here for ease of reference. The grapes are grown in the Provincia di Pavia in northern Italy’s Lombardy region. It is a bit less sweet and higher in alcohol (but still very low at 7%). And the price sure is right.

 

Cava

 

Spanish Cava has long been my go-to bubbly for parties and friendly accompaniment for meals. Most Cava is produced by the tradition method in the Penedès valley in Cataluna not far from Barcelona. Most Cava features the indigenous grapes Macabeo, Xarel-lo, Parellada. It’s recently had competition from Prosecco but is still a great choice.

 

Codorníu. Codorníu has been a premier sparkling wine producer since 1872 when the family introduced the traditional method to Spain. The family’s winemaking history actually stretches back more than 450 years to 1551. Anna de Codorníu Brut ($15) celebrates the life of Codorníu’s last heiress and the family she guided. It was the first Cava to use chardonnay in its cuvee, 70 percent in this release with 30 percent parellada. It shows some richness and a little sweetness, with a solid structure and a creamy texture and more fruit than expected – citrus, tropical and strawberry aromas; and apple, citrus, and raspberry flavors.

 

Poema.  Poema is a top-quality, small-production Cava house that emphasizes sustainable practices, suchasorganic fertilizer and no herbicides. The Brut ($13) is notable for its fresh bread, citrus, apple and even mineral notes. Its crisp, fruity and well-balanced profile positions it as a great choice. 

California

 

Barefoot Bubbly. For my California selection, I’m recommending a reliable choice in the so-called “value” category – Barefoot Bubbly. Barefoot Cellars has been churning out good value wines since 1986. Today, they produce thirteen still wines and seven sparkling. The mainstays of the Barefoot Bubbly line are the Brut Cuvée and Extra Dry, each ($11). The Brut is not as dry as the term usually indicates. But it is clean and crisp, with nice lemon and apple fruit balanced with creamy notes. The Extra Dry shows nice fresh tropical fruit; it is slightly sweet but finishes with refreshing acidity. These wines are ideal for parties and family gatherings and make a good base for the ever popular mimosa.

 

 

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RED, WHITE AND SUMMER: WINES FOR WARM WEATHER SIPPING

Fresh, Fragrant Whites Are Perfect For Warm Weather

What I like most about spring and summer is the blossoming of aromas and how that signals the awakening of life after the rest of winter.  And a cool white wine is just the compliment for the warmer weather. But not just any white wine and certainly not Chardonnay, which is fine but I’m looking for alternatives that are generally lighter and more refreshing.

For my purposes here, that mostly means the so-called “aromatic whites” Riesling and Muscat. These delightful wines are crisp, fruity, and fragrant. And they are natural matches for the lighter foods of summer. It also means the white Rhone varietals – Viognier, Roussanne, and Marsanne, which admittedly are more “Chardonnay-like” but offer intriguingly different flavor profiles.

For generally reasonable prices, these wines also provide a refreshing combination of acidity and in many cases moderate alcohol – perfect for warm weather. They are great as aperitifs or with food. They are especially good with Asian food but would work well with spicy foods, picnic fare, salads and even simple grilled foods.

I’m one of those who think that, all things considered, riesling makes the greatest white wines in the world. In Germany and Alsace it produces aromatic wines of high acid and, unusual for a white wine, potentially long life. The fragrant, flowery aromas lead into fresh green apple, pear and occasionally peach, apricot, pineapple, or mineral flavors are delivered with bracing acidity.

No Alsatians in my recent tastings but a tasty 2009 Rudolf Müller Riesling from Germany (2009, $10 or $24 3L Octavin) offers good everyday drinking. From Australia, the 2009 Chateau Tanunda Grand Barossa ($16) from a cool climate estate vineyard is a good example of how well this grape can do down under. In the U.S., Washington State is making world class Riesling. A recent favorite is the 2009 Seven Hills Columbia Valley ($14). It is made in a refreshing low alcohol style that is slightly sweet. From California, the 2009 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($12) and 2009 Carmel Road Monterey ($14) also are tasty options.

Much to my pleasant surprise, a recent market report announced that moscato is the fastest growing varietal with sales last year almost doubling. I have long been a fan of Italy’s Moscato d’Asti. This floral, fruity, slightly effervescent wine from the Piedmont is made from the partially fermented juice of white muscat grapes. It is sweet, delightfully aromatic and delicate on the palate, low alcohol (6%) and equally comfortable as an aperitif or a dessert wine.

The 2010 Paolo Saracco Moscato d’Asti ($16) is exemplary of the style from a favorite producer. Camposaldo makes a similarly enjoyable 2010 Moscato ($14) from grapes grown in Lombardy. And what better proof do I need of the grape’s newfound popularity than the delightful 2010 Moscato ($7) I just tasted from none other than Australia’s [yellow tail]. The mass producer actually has done a decent job of imitating Italy’s signature style.

One of California’s leading producers of Rhone-style wines is Santa Barbara’s Zaca Mesa. Zaca Mesa was one of the first vineyards in the region, having been established in the Santa Ynez Valley in the early 1970’s. They have released a 2009 Viognier ($20) that offers honey and loads of exotic fruits and a silky texture with a vibrant finish. Their 2007 Roussanne ($25) deals in apricots and figs laced with zippy acidity, full body and an intriguing waxy texture.

Another fine choice is the 2008 Treana White ($25), from one of the leading Paso Robles grower/winemaking families who here has blended Marsanne and Viognier mostly from Monterey’s esteemed Mer Soleil Vineyard into a juicy wine of honeyed citrus and tropical fruits. Washington also is excelling with Rhine varietals. I was especially impressed with Seven Hills 2009 Viognier Talcott Vineyard ($20). The wine explodes with ripe, juicy peach and honeysuckle, with hints of citrus and stone fruits.

Chenin Blanc, native to the Loire Valley, also is a personal favorite. In California, it is usually produced in a fruity, slightly sweet style, though a few brave souls (like Dry Creek Vineyard) make a dry style inspired by the fine wines of Savennieres. I recently tasted for the first time an innovative chenin blanc blend from Pine Ridge, one of the pioneering wineries in the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley. The winery has a reputation as a master at blending. Its 2009 Chenin Blanc + Viognier ($12) is a unique and uniquely successful combination of Clarksburg chenin blanc and Lodi viognier.

The recommendations above are a good start on the summer white wine search. Next comes a quest for Gewurztraminer, Albarino, Verdejo, Torrontes, Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache Blanc, and Pinot Blanc and other good reasons to look forward to spring and summer.

European (And One South African) Reds For Summer Grilling

Although it’s common to think more about white wines as the weather warms, many of us still enjoy a good red, even in summer. I’ve come across several good candidates to match with the season’s grilled and more casual foods.

A fine place to start, maybe to toast the season, is with a bottle of red bubbly. That’s right, red. I suggest the unique Italian sparkler from the Piedmont region known as Brachetto d’Acqui (signifying first the grape, then the town). The 2010 Rosa Regale ($20) from the highly regarded Banfi family is deeply fruited (cherry, strawberry) and exuberant, with refreshingly low alcohol.

As a wine that is generally best slightly chilled, Beaujolais is the ideal red for warm weather. From the northern French region of the same name, Beaujolais is made using a special whole bunch fermentation process solely with the gamay grape, known for a flavor profile of mostly bright red fruits, floral, herbal and mineral notes, and lively acidity. I’ve recently enjoyed several good ones from the highly touted 2009 vintage. Whichever level you choose, Beaujolais represent s one of the best values around.

For a good introduction to the region sample a wine labeled “Beaujolais-Villages.” These are blended from specifically authorized vineyards in the northern of the region. A reliable option here is the 2009 Louis Jadot ($13), which shows a typically lighter but fleshy character with touches of licorice and lively red fruits.

Next try a wine from one of the ten most important villages (or “cru”). Here, a great place to start is with the “Flower Label” wines of Georges Dubeouf, probably the most respected and widely available producer. A good one is the 2009 Morgon ($14), which has richness and depth not often found with many other crus.

There also are single-vineyard Beaujolais that are a real treat for their distinctiveness. Two more from Duboeuf: 2009 Moulin-a-Vent “Tour du Bief” ($17) – quite full and rich, with many layers – and especially 2009 Fleurie “Domaine des Quatre Vents” ($17) – floral, full of ripe fruit, yet balanced and velvety.

From the southern France region of Rousillon near the border with Spain comes another option, this time a blend of so-called Rhone varietals. The 2008 Chateau de Jau Cotes du Roussillon Villages ($16) combines syrah, mourvedre, carignan, and grenache to produce an easy drinking wine of darker fruits and soft tannins.

This time of year, I’m especially fond of Portuguese table wine. While the region surrounding the Douro River in northern Portugal is famous for Port, table wine from the area has become a go-to choice for excellent value. The wines are made with the same varieties used to make Port and even sourced from the same vineyards as each winery’s Port.

The 2008 Dow’s “Valle do Bomfim” ($12) offers bright mixed berry fruit, spicy intrigue and a balance of structure with mellow tannins. The 2008 Quinta de Roriz “Prazo de Roriz” ($17) delivers deep fruit, mostly black cherry, and an appealing mineral note in a stylish frame that also finishes with soft tannins. It probably shouldn’t be a surprise that the region known for making the great Port wines would emerge as a contender in quality table wines.

Finally, for those of you who insist on a Cabernet Sauvignon, I submit the 2008 Glen Carlou “Grand Classique” ($20). South African wines have improved significantly in recent years and this one, Glen Carlou’s signature red wine, is a really fine example of a Bordeaux-style blend. The addition of merlot, petit verdot, malbec and cabernet franc results in a wine with impressive complexity for the price. Strong black cherry and plum wrapped in an oak blanket are accompanied by touches of tobacco and mint. The velvety texture compliments a tight structure.

Whether it’s a classic cab, a hearty Douro, a bottle of Mediterranean sunshine, a refreshing Beaujolais, or an effervescent Italian, you can’t go wrong with red this summer.