RANDALL GRAHM’S AND BONNY DOON’S QUEST FOR TERROIRISTIC SELF EXPRESSION BEARS FRUIT
Over the last few decades, the concept of terroir and its influence on the grapes grown in a given location and ultimately the wine from those grapes has been the subject of an enormous amount of discussion and as much debate. When I first saw mentions of the subject, it was mostly presented in terms of the geography and geology of the soil in which the grapevines are grown. Soon after, conversations incorporated the environmental conditions and climate. Then it was expanded to include factors influenced by humans – particularly the grape growing and winemaking.
Nowadays most commentators agree a “terroir driven wine” ultimately reflects the sum of the natural conditions of its place of origin and the human decisions in the vineyard and the cellar that attempt to express the unique characteristics of that location. Actually, beyond that it seems to me the extent to which a wine accomplishes that ideal is a result of a still poorly understood alchemy in which the wine is greater than the sum of its influences.
Enter Randall Grahm, a singular winemaking personality known as much for his gift at turning a phrase and clever prose incorporating literary and philosophical references. Mr. Grahm founded Bonny Doon winery thirty years ago and was one of the original “Rhone Rangers” (proponents of California wines made with grapes typical of France’s Rhone Valley). He has long been a proponent of “terroir driven” wines but to many seemed to have lost his way for a period when he focused more on growing his wine business (ultimately to nearly 500,000 cases a year).
Now, he has recommitted himself and his operation to making (actually I think he would prefer I say “shepherding” or “facilitating” or maybe “translating”) wines that reflect the vineyard source. A key decision in this regard he says is his decision to only use biodynamically farmed grapes and rely on indigenous yeasts for fermentation. There still are myriad practices employed in the cellar to achieve the style of wine Mr. Grahm prefers (which I would describe as more European – higher acidity, dryer fruit flavors, more earthy and herbal components) but he seems genuinely dedicated to decisions he thinks will produce wines optimally characteristic of their origin.
And the quality of the wines, at least based on my recent tasting, more than justify his approach. He still is focusing on Rhone varietals and now also “lesser-known varietals” like the Albarino reviewed below.
For the whites, the 2011 Albarino ($18) from the Central Coast vineyards Casa Grande near Soledad and Jesperson Ranch in San Louis Obispo is fun to drink. True to its varietal characteristics (the grape is mostly known for its wines from Spain and Portugal), this wine is fairly aromatic and quite lively in the mouth. I enjoyed its peach, melon and lime fruit, and a creamy note that adds weight.
The 2010 Le Cigare Blanc Beeswax Vineyard Arroyo Seco ($26) also is quite fragrant with floral, lemon, pear, and spice notes. This Rhône-style blend of roussanne and grenache blanc comes from a shielded from the cool Pacific winds by the Santa Lucia Mountains vineyard is medium-bodied, with a lush texture (possibly from the full malolactic fermentation) and intriguing mineral characteristics.
On to the reds, the 2010 Contra ($16) is described as an “Old Vine Field Blend” implying the vineyard sources are planted with multiple grapes and all the fruit is harvested and vinified together. About 2/3 carignane (old, nongrafted, dry-farmed, head-trained vines from Contra Costa County’s Gonsalves Vineyard) and 1/3 syrah (from Santa Maria Valley’s Bien Nacido Vineyard) with splashes of grenache, roussanne, grenache blanc, and mourvèdre, this is similar to a wine we might find from the south of France. Regardless, it is a fine value with mushroom aromas and nice ripe red and black fruits, a touch of licorice and spice followed by a medium body, supple texture and fresh acidity.
The 2009 Ca’ del Solo Nebbiolo Monterey County ($45) from the biodynamic Ca’ del Solo Estate Vineyard is rather pricey but it does deliver the goods. On the nose, there are pure red cherry, lightly floral and smoke notes, and maybe even a creamy quality. In the mouth, an underlying element of earth with a touch of fennel is the foundation for a juicy, lighter-bodied, brightly fruited wine.
The Chateauneuf-du-Pape style 2008 Le Cigare Volant ($38) has become somewhat iconic since its inception 25 years ago. It was one of the first such wines from one of the first Rhone Rangers. This vintage is 45 percent grenache (mostly from Ca’ del Solo estate) and 30 percent syrah (mostly from Bien Nacido vineyard), with smaller proportions of mourvedre, cinsault, and carignane. It shows tangy plum and hints of cherries and anise. I sense lightly dusty, woodsy notes in the nose. There is similar fruit in the broad mouth, while it closes with powdery, gravelly tannins.
The 2008 Le Cigare Volant Reserve en Bonbonne ($65) is a really interesting wine. It is a selection of the Cigare Volant separated to finish aging in 5-gallon glass bottles (called carboys or “bonbonnes”) rather than barrels or foudres. Possibly because of the nature of this container, particularly its reductive (oxygen free) nature, it does seem to have a bit more structure and taste a little fresher. Still, the bouquet presents evolved notes of dried berries and herbs with a pleasant suggestion of gravel. It is nicely concentrated and dry and finishes with noticeable tannic grip.
I would say these two wines are of roughly equal quality, although I preferred the Bonbonne. They’re just made in different styles. Maybe they should be thought of as different expressions of the vineyard sources as interpreted by the winemaker.
There also were three Syrahs in my tasting. One, the 2009 Le Pousseur Syrah ($25) was the only wine that didn’t impress me much. There was nothing wrong with its earthy, savory qualities and black cherry fruit. It just seemed rather one-dimensional.
In contrast, the 2008 Syrah Alamo Creek Vineyard ($35) had a lot going on. It opened with enticing red fruit. Then it followed with smoky dried herbs and a spice note that for some reason made me wonder if they came from the grape, the barrels in which the wine was aged, or the vineyard (which Grahm says is planted in an old riverbed in San Louis Obispo County). It had a similar flavor profile, with deep fruit, a touch of anise and savory, peppery, meaty flavors. This is all packaged in a solid structure, with distinct dryness, finishing with lively tannins.
Finally, the 2008 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard ($42) was the star of my tasting. From the cool climate, older vines and calcareous soils of Bien Nacido’s X-block, this is a fantastic wine. It was generous with its tart cherry and juicy berry fruit. Peppery, earthy and meaty elements emerged with time in the glass, all nicely balanced with fresh acidity. As with the best Syrahs, this wine deftly balanced power and elegance.
Based on the wines in my tasting, this partnership between the winemakers, wine growers, grapevines, and vineyards is bearing fine fruit and I look forward to following its further development.
NOTE: All photos obtained from Bonny Doon website.
