Tag: riesling

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WHAT’S COLD, DRY, LIGHT AND WHITE ALL OVER … AND JUST IN TIME FOR JANUARY?

PEOPLE’S PALATE WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR JANUARY 7, 2013

No, it’s not snow. It’s white wine from France, at least for the purposes of this column.

 

I admit I usually prefer red wines (and Port!) during the cold months but recently I suddenly had a hankering for some crisp whites, cold weather be damned. These wines from Alsace and Loire really hit the spot. So, I thought I’d share them with you. And, keeping in mind your post-holiday bank accounts may be somewhat depleted, all are under $20 a bottle.

 

Something like 92 percent of all Alsatian wine is white. Unlike other French regions, the best wines (those whose appellation of origin is controlled by law, known as A.O.C.) are labeled with the name of the grape variety (and the wine inside is 100 percent). Of particular interest to me, the region is the premier home of my two favorite white grape varieties – riesling (although Germany ranks here, too) and gewürztraminer.

At their best, these wines have excellent fruit intensity, intriguing savory notes, and fine balancing acidity. And Pierre Sparr is one of the best producers. The firm’s entry-level wines (all screw capped) are excellent introductions to the region. The 2011 Riesling ($15) is lightly floral with juicy lime and peach fruit, a stony element and firm acidity. The 2011 Gewurztraminer ($17) delights with intense aromas of tangerine, peach and pear and off dry, textbook lychee flavors, with a touch of anise in a rich, oily texture wine. The 2010 Alsace One ($13) is a blend of muscat, riesling and pinot gris. It is fragrant and floral with lively tropical, apple and mineral notes, good acidity and a crisp finish.

 

At the far west end of the Loire Valley within reach of the Atlantic Ocean’s salty breezes lies the Muscadet appellation. There is much unique about the wines here. Melon de Bourgogne is the only grape variety grown and it is virtually unique to this region, even though it originated in Burgundy. These wines are one of the great accompaniments to fish and seafood, and especially oysters.

 

My favorites come from the Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine area, located between the two rivers in the name. The terrior – igneous and metamorphic rock and the influence of the ocean – produces very dry wines but they are light and crisp, with fresh citrus (lemon, lime, grapefruit) aromas that evoke the ocean breeze, brisk acidity offset with minerality, and a tangy, occasionally slightly bitter finish. They are vinified sur lie in which the lees (yeast cells remaining after fermentation) are kept in the wine until bottling to enhance the lively character. The 2009 Andre Michel Bregeon ($16) really evokes the saline spray of the nearby ocean and those oysters you’ll be eating with it. The 2010 Domaine de la Quilla ($13) shows more of the stony minerality. Finally, the 2008 les Clissages D’Or ($16) emphasizes the citrus and herbal qualities.

 

 

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GERMANY’S RIESLINGS ARE “SWEET” EVEN WHEN THEY’RE DRY

 

Normally I would find it a challenge to drink nothing but white wine– and only one type of white wine at that – for and extended period of time.

 

But this was German Riesling (my personal favorite white wine and arguably, at its best, the greatest white wine in the world) and I was in the Rheinhessen, Nahe, and Mosel on a press trip hosted by the German Wine Institute.

 

So, in this case, it was no challenge at all. It always has confounded me that Americans don’t appreciate this wonderful wine more. Interestingly, this was a topic of discussion with every grower we met. The two most common explanations we heard – and they are not exclusive of each other – were Americans assume all

German Riesling (actually all Riesling) is sweet at a time when most Americans prefer dry wine. And, to make matters worse, the traditional labels are complex and confusing to consumers such that most can’t tell what they are buying.

Many German producers have responded by simplifying their front labels, often prominently displaying “Riesling” and using only a brand name or just the name of the village or the single vineyard, then putting all the traditional, still legally required information on the back label (for wine geeks like me who appreciate that sort of thing).

They also are working hard to educate consumers (and trade and press) about the variety and high quality of Riesling, hence a major reason for this trip. The main mission seemed to be to emphasize there actually is a lot of dry German Riesling and it is really good stuff!

Still, the basic marketing approach seems a bit schizophrenic, even though it may just be reflecting the contradictions of the American market. Every producer we met with who makes any sweet or off-dry wine said that’s what they mostly export to the U.S. They said it’s because that’s what most U.S. consumers want. Most of their dry wine goes to other markets but they hope to change that.

I guess economic realities dictate they sell what consumers like. Meanwhile, they pursue a parallel strategy to promote their dry wines, in the hope of (even if gradually) building demand. And quite frankly, I’m happy to help. As much as I love the sweeter wines, I was greatly impressed (quite blown away actually) at just how delicious the dry Rieslings were/are.

Before I get into the specific wines and wineries, a few thoughts. Looking back on the four days of winemaker/grower visits, a number of patterns emerge. Although the fifteen growers we visited aren’t a scientifically randomized sample, I do think they are representative of the trends among the best German producers in the top regions.

The first thing I noticed is they are small, especially compared to, say, most California wineries. The exception to this and all of my subsequent observations is Moselland, the largest winery we visited, making 2 million cases annually. Most of the growers we visited produce fewer than 20,000 cases and for several it’s more like 5000.

All of the wineries on our trip are family owned operations that have been in the family business for generations. Many have at least two generations working at the winery. In almost every case, a father had recently retired from day-to-day operations and a son (no daughters on this trip!) had recently taken over as winemaker. The fathers usually were still involved either in the vineyard or basically in a consultant role in the cellar. It also was common to find grandmothers, mothers and sisters helping out with other aspects of the business.

I think all the growers we met are primarily estate producers, meaning they use only grapes from vineyards they own for most of their wines. In a few cases, they also buy fruit to supplement their own to produce their entry level wine (basically a higher volume introduction to the winery).

Each of these estates had their own family history to recount. In most cases, that family history extends at least 150 years, in some as far back as 500 years!

Of course, there wouldn’t be anything to write about without the amazing vineyards. And each grower showed a certain pride, even reverence for their vineyards. We especially heard a lot about slate – the layered, metamorphic rock of sedimentary, clay and sometimes volcanic origins notable for high mineral and crystalline content. These slate soils are prized for their ability to hold moisture and heat and to impart a distinctive sense of those minerals in the resulting wine.

Something else I found interesting about those families and their vineyards: these vineyards don’t have just one owner, as is the case in most other wine regions around the world. In Germany, especially with the top vineyards, ownership is more like what you will find in Burgundy. As I understood the explanation from our hosts, because of Germany’s inheritance laws (dividing property equally among the heirs) and the hundreds of years properties have been passed down, ownership in these top vineyards commonly is shared among dozens of owners.

One thing this did was provide opportunities to compare wines from the same vineyards made by different growers. I’ll discuss that and more about the specific producers and their wines in my next column.

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WINES FOR HOLIDAY MEALS AND GIFTS

RIch Mauro The Peoples Palate

RIch Mauro The Peoples PalateAll American Wines For Your Holiday Meal

Every year I spend almost as much time deciding which wines to serve with our holiday dinner, whether it’s Thanksgiving or Christmas, as the rest of my family does preparing the meal. Part of the reason for this is the simple fact that I know good wine dramatically enhances enjoyment of the meal.

The other more practical reason is that most holiday dinners, whether the traditional “turkey with all the fixins” or something more creative, present such a wide variety of flavors that it truly is challenging to pick a wine to drink throughout the dinner. And there usually are a lot of people at the table, so we need multiple bottles anyway.

So, the question is how to match all that variety. My solution? Quite simply, use different wines with each course. Incidentally, I generally prefer all American wines for these holiday meals.

For instance, a Riesling or a Gewürztraminer are great to start, whether as aperitifs or to pair with appetizers and soup, especially one with a vegetable or chicken base. But both wines provide good acidity and lively fruit to accommodate a wide variety of foods.

A good Riesling is enticingly aromatic with bracing acidity and typically green apple, citrus and stone fruit flavors. Most intriguing, there often is a distinctive mineral component. I especially have been enjoying Washington State Riesling these days. All are slightly sweet unless otherwise indicated.

  • 2010 Chateau St. Michelle Dry ($9), Riesling ($9), Harvest Select (sweet, $10)
  • 2010 Snoqualmie Winemaker’s Select (sweet, $10)
  • 2010 Pacific Rim Dry ($10), Riesling ($10), Sweet ($10)
  • 2009 Hogue Cellars Columbia Valley Riesling ($10)
  • 2010 Columbia Crest Grand Estates ($11)

I especially like Gewürztraminer because the grape’s typical spiciness adds complexity that helps the wine match with earthy, autumn flavors. Also look for lychee, grapefruit, apricot, and peach aromas and flavors. The wines below are just slightly sweet and each is an exceptional value.

  • 2009 Hogue Columbia Valley ($10)
  • 2010 Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley ($9)
  • 2010 Snoqualmie “Naked” ($12) organic grapes
  • 2010 Columbia Crest “Two Vines” ($8)

The zesty green fruits and distinctive herbaceousness of Sauvignon Blanc enable this wine to pair with multiple courses. These two are perennial favorites.

  • 2010 Grgich Hills “Fumé Blanc” Napa Valley ($30)
  • 2010 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($20)

For the reds, I like Pinot noir for its versatility. Its most common flavors – cherry, plum, cranberry, blueberry, brown spices, and earthy/mushroom notes – are much like the various flavors on the typical Thanksgiving table. Also, many tend to be on the light side, making them more food friendly. Pinot Noir definitely is pricey but each of these wines delivers fine quality within its price range.

  • 2009 Carmel Road Monterey ($20) smooth texture, firm palate
  • 2009 Alta Maria Santa Maria Valley ($28) elegant, complex
  • 2009 Saintsbury Carneros ($28) bright fruit, nice acidity
  • 2009 La Crema Russian River Valley ($40) dark fruit, structured
  • 2009 Cherry Pie “Stanly Ranch” Carneros ($50) intense fruit, full body

If you prefer more outgoing, strongly flavored reds, I suggest Zinfandel, the so-called All-American wine. It is a European immigrant that has fully adapted to California’s hospitable wine growing regions. The grape’s bright raspberry blackberry, and black cherry fruit, peppery spice and brash, generous character should hold up well to the challenge presented by all those different flavors on the plate.

  • 2009 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($16) excellent quality for the price
  • 2009 Edmeades Mendocino County ($20) a lot of power
  • 2008 Montelena Estate Napa Valley ($30) elegant, Bordeaux-style
  • 2008 Dashe Florence Vineyard ($32) spicy, structured and full flavored
  • 2009 Frank Family Napa Valley ($37) lots of fruit with fine spice
  • 2008 Dutcher Crossing Bernier-Sibary Vineyard ($39) intense and powerful

Holiday Wine Gift Ideas

It is also time to start looking for a special wine to give that wine lover in your life. With ongoing economic uncertainty, it is more important than ever to be extra careful in our purchases, to find those little gems that can make an extra special gift. Well, I’m here to help, suggesting some exciting wines to make your decision easier.

As much as I am an advocate for lesser-known wines, you can’t go wrong with California Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. These are still the most popular red and white wines in America, making them reliable choices for a gift. And they also carry a certain cache; that something that says you cared enough to select a special wine.

For Cabernet Lovers:

  • 2007 Stonestreet Monument Ridge ($45) demonstrates why many swear by the quality possible from mountain vineyards; really impressive character and complexity throughout; strong tannins and highly structured; intense blackberry, currant, licorice, and dried herb aromas and flavors; this is one to cellar for at least a decade
  • 2007 Hess Collection Mount Veeder ($48) another impressive mountain vineyard; beautiful blackberry, currant and earthy flavors; dry, yet balanced and complex with cedar, and tobacco notes
  • 2007 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($40) classic Napa Cab; noticeable oak, concentrated dark berries, black currant, chocolate, and spices; somewhat tough tannins right now but lots of potential for development
  • 2007 Jordan Alexander Valley ($52) elegant and dry, with seductive blackberry and black currant fruit offset with herbal, and tobacco notes; dare I say “Bordeaux-like?”
  • 2008 Treana Red Paso Robles ($35) from Paso Robles pioneer Austin Hope; blended with 30% syrah; ripe, juicy dark fruits and black licorice; hints of tobacco and spice; luscious and graceful
  • 2007 J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyard ($40) St. Helena vineyard; admirable depth and complexity; toasty oak, elegant but concentrated blackberry and cherry; firm tannins; immediately enjoyable
  • 2008 Justin Isosceles Paso Robles ($62) all five Bordeaux varietals in this intriguing blend; dried berries with earthy tones; scents of iron and herbs; well structured

For Chardonnay Devotees:

  • 2009 Stonestreet Bear Point ($55) smoky oak and buttery notes overlay complex citrus, peach and tropical fruit with stony notes; creamy texture but very brisk, so much so it is the rare Chardonnay that needs a few years to open up but will reward patience
  • 2009 Alta Maria Santa Maria Valley ($25) just a really delightful wine; juicy tangerine and citrus with a ribbon of lively acidity; honey and cinnamon add complexity
  • 2009 Landmark Overlook Sonoma County ($28) another delightful, great value; fairly full-bodied with a complex of aromas and flavors including honey, citrus, nectarine, and peach
  • 2009 Patz & Hall Chardonnays: This Pinot Noir and Chardonnay specialist produces a wide array of wines from many of the best vineyards in California. Three new releases, though pricey, really deliver the goods:
  • 2009 Sonoma Coast ($35) focused tropical fruit, creamy texture with a mineral edge and a refreshing finish
  • 2009 Russian River Valley Dutton Ranch ($39) rich, oaky style bursting with pineapple, citrus, and pear
  • 2009 Carneros Hudson Vineyard ($55) oaky, buttery, with a lush palate; vibrant pear and tangerine

A final thought. Whichever wines you ultimately choose, and any of these would make a wonderful choice, be sure to take time this holiday season to raise a glass with friends or family and appreciate the goodness in your glass, on the table, and in each other.

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CELEBRATE COLORADO WINES!

It’s been a good year for Colorado Wine.

For the first time since the repeal of Prohibition, Colorado wineries reported more than one million liters of wine to the Colorado Department of Revenue, an increase of 10 percent over the previous year. Over the past five years, production has increased 70 percent and Colorado wines’ market share, though still comparatively small, has grown 30 percent.

Mt. Garfield & the Bookcliffs Overlook the Grand Valley

Doug Caskey, executive director of the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board noted, “In the face of a small, difficult harvest in 2010 [production down one-third from 2009] and ongoing economic uncertainty, our wineries continue to expand.”

There are now 100 licensed wineries (compared to six in 1990 and 64 in 2006) in Colorado.  Front Range wineries contributed 41 percent of the wine volume reported to the Department of Revenue, while the wineries in the Grand Valley American Viticultural Area (along the Colorado River between Palisade and Grand Junction) accounted for 47 percent.  Eighty percent of the grapes grown in Colorado come from the Grand Valley AVA, though grapes also are grown in Delta, Montrose, Montezuma, Fremont, Pueblo, Boulder, Larimer, Weld and Kit Carson counties.

"Divinity" by The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey

And you can find wineries located pretty much all over the state. At last count, the Grand Valley on the Western Slope is home to 24 wineries surrounding the cities of Palisade and Grand Junction, while Delta and Montrose counties to the south, including the West Elks AVA, hosts 19 more. Surprisingly, there also are five producers further south in the state’s Four Corners area. And there are even 12 more wineries and tasting rooms scattered throughout our Rocky Mountains. On the Front Range, there are nine more wineries and tasting rooms dotted around Colorado Springs and Cañon City. Finally, in the Denver/Boulder/Ft. Collins region, wine hunters can choose from 38 wineries and tasting rooms.

Around the state there are now several well worth the trip wine festivals that offer fun opportunities to experience Colorado wines throughout the year. In the Grand Valley, the 20th Annual Colorado Mountain Winefest, the state’s premier wine festival, was just completed. And the Mountain Winefest organizers successfully hosted the first annual Colorado Winefest held last June at The Shops at Northfield Stapleton in Denver.

A Celebration of Premier Colorado Wines was an elegant tasting event held two days earlier at the Governor’s Residence. The event featured wines given the awards from the Colorado-only wine competition judged by national and local wine experts under the auspices of the American Wine Society.

There also are two great Colorado wine festivals off the I-25 Corridor south of Denver. The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey in Cañon City just celebrated the 10th Annual Harvest Fest and Winemaker’s Dinner. The Ninth Annual Manitou Springs Colorado Wine Festival was held in June. In addition to excellent wine and food, these are special community events anxiously anticipated each year.

As the Colorado industry has grown into a fine adolescence, as I have heard Caskey describe it, it seems the challenge for its journey to adulthood is to find an identity. One of the most interesting things to me about the Colorado wine

Ag Commissioner John Salazar and Gov. John Hickenlooper Survey the Bounty

industry is that most growers and wineries for a long time focused on the “Big Three” French varietals – cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and chardonnay. Merlot is the most widely planted red grape in the state, with cabernet sauvignon close behind, but plantings of syrah, cabernet franc and pinot noir are increasing, as wines from these varieties show real promise. As for the whites, riesling is now the most widely grown, which makes sense to me, since I’ve long thought it made the state’s best wine. After chardonnay, there are small but significant amounts of gewürztraminer, viognier and pinot gris.

As for the future, with the diversity of soils and climate in Colorado, I expect to see further experimentation. And as vintners learn more about which grapes grow best where and about what has made other wine-producing region successful (maybe a topic for another column), I expect the already improving quality will advance even further. Finally, let’s hope more restaurants will find room on their wine lists for Colorado wines

And you can help promote Colorado wine during the fourth annual Regional Wine Week. The blog DrinkLocalWine is hosting the event from October 9 through October 15. Wine writers, bloggers and consumers are encouraged to share information about wine from what organizers call “The Other 47” states (no California, Washington or Oregon). Share a story or personal anecdote about a Colorado wine, winery, wine region, or wine event. The only catch is you have to do it in 47 words. For more information about Regional Wine Week and the contest, check out www.drinklocalwine.com.

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TRY WASHINGTON RIESLING TO BEAT THE HEAT

rich mauro the peoples palate

rich mauro the peoples palateI’m sitting here writing this column on the seventeenth straight 90°+ day glad that I have a glass of Riesling next to me to keep me refreshed.

I think the riesling grape makes the greatest white wines in the world. Especially in Germany and Alsace, it produces aromatic wines of bracing acidity and potentially long life. Typically, fragrant, floral aromas lead into fresh green apple and stone fruit – pear, peach, or apricot – and occasionally pineapple. Most intriguing, there often is a distinctive mineral component. Cooler climates in Australia, Canada, California and Oregon also produce good examples. But today I’m drinking and writing about Washington State Riesling.

You may be surprised to read that riesling was one of the first varieties grown in Washington and still is one of the state’s favorite wines. St. Michelle Wine Estates is the dominant player in the Washington wine industry. And the company has been in the forefront in establishing Riesling as the state’s premier white wine grape. And with Chateau St. Michelle, Columbia Crest, and Snoqualmie wineries it is the largest Riesling producer in the world.

Chateau St. Michelle, which was established in 1967 and pioneered contemporary fine wine making in Washington, is the state’s largest producer, yet consistently delivers quality at remarkable prices. And there is a style to fit your preference. The 2010 Dry ($9) sports refreshing peach notes. The 2010 Riesling ($9) is just slightly sweet, with juicy apple and pear. The 2010 Harvest Select, ($10) is quite sweet but balanced with crisp pear and apple.

Ever since its opening 35 years ago, it seems Columbia Crest perennially is recognized for providing outstanding value. This certainly true of the 2010 Grand Estates ($11) which impressed me with its juicy apple and pear fruit delivered with lively acidity that balances a slightly honeyed sweetness.

I also enjoyed the two Snoqualmie wines I tasted. The 2010 Winemaker’s Select ($10) is fairly sweet but crisp and refreshing and bursting with pear and apricot fruit. Snoqualmie has distinguished itself as a leader in sustainable farming and winemaking in Washington. The 2009 “Naked” Columbia Valley ($12) is made with certified organically grown grapes in a certified organic facility. It’s bright off-dry apricot fruit is off set with mineral and spice.

St. Michelle’s premier Riesling and arguably America’s best Riesling is Eroica, a collaboration with Germany’s renowned Dr. Loosen winery. The 2009 ($24), its tenth vintage, harmonizes succulent peach with crisp citrus, spice and mineral notes. As good as this outstanding wine is now, it will improve in the cellar.

Not far behind St. Michelle in production and influence is Pacific Rim. The brand was created by Randall Grahm of California’s Bonny Doon Vineyard in 1992 using Washington fruit and was sold to new owners who established it as its own winery in Washington in 2006. I believe these folks when they say they are passionate about Riesling, as 90% of their production comes from that grape. They make countless bottlings, including single vineyards, an organic Riesling and the three tasted for this report: a floral, citrus, 2010 Dry; a 2010 Riesling with slightly sweet pear and apple; and a luscious 2010 Sweet that revealed tropical and peach fruit. All are a wallet friendly $10.

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, Hogue Cellars is another large Washington winery that is known for great values. For 30 years, Hogue has made an extensive line of well-priced wines delivering good quality. Their 2009 Columbia Valley Riesling ($10) did not disappoint. Juicy green apple and a touch of orange come through with a nice balance of cleansing acidity and medium sweetness.

Finally, I must emphasize that numerous smaller wineries make excellent Riesling worth seeking out. Such as Seven Hills Winery, where Casey and Vicky McClellan have been making wine from their Walla Walla home since 1988. Casey crafts exceptional merlot, cabernet sauvignon and syrah, often considered at the top of the Washington quality ladder. He also makes excellent Riesling and Pinot Gris. I was extremely impressed with the 2009 Seven Hills Columbia Valley ($14). It was made in a refreshing low alcohol style that is slightly sweet but bursting with juicy apple, citrus and pear with an enticing mineral note.

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RED, WHITE AND SUMMER: WINES FOR WARM WEATHER SIPPING

Fresh, Fragrant Whites Are Perfect For Warm Weather

What I like most about spring and summer is the blossoming of aromas and how that signals the awakening of life after the rest of winter.  And a cool white wine is just the compliment for the warmer weather. But not just any white wine and certainly not Chardonnay, which is fine but I’m looking for alternatives that are generally lighter and more refreshing.

For my purposes here, that mostly means the so-called “aromatic whites” Riesling and Muscat. These delightful wines are crisp, fruity, and fragrant. And they are natural matches for the lighter foods of summer. It also means the white Rhone varietals – Viognier, Roussanne, and Marsanne, which admittedly are more “Chardonnay-like” but offer intriguingly different flavor profiles.

For generally reasonable prices, these wines also provide a refreshing combination of acidity and in many cases moderate alcohol – perfect for warm weather. They are great as aperitifs or with food. They are especially good with Asian food but would work well with spicy foods, picnic fare, salads and even simple grilled foods.

I’m one of those who think that, all things considered, riesling makes the greatest white wines in the world. In Germany and Alsace it produces aromatic wines of high acid and, unusual for a white wine, potentially long life. The fragrant, flowery aromas lead into fresh green apple, pear and occasionally peach, apricot, pineapple, or mineral flavors are delivered with bracing acidity.

No Alsatians in my recent tastings but a tasty 2009 Rudolf Müller Riesling from Germany (2009, $10 or $24 3L Octavin) offers good everyday drinking. From Australia, the 2009 Chateau Tanunda Grand Barossa ($16) from a cool climate estate vineyard is a good example of how well this grape can do down under. In the U.S., Washington State is making world class Riesling. A recent favorite is the 2009 Seven Hills Columbia Valley ($14). It is made in a refreshing low alcohol style that is slightly sweet. From California, the 2009 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($12) and 2009 Carmel Road Monterey ($14) also are tasty options.

Much to my pleasant surprise, a recent market report announced that moscato is the fastest growing varietal with sales last year almost doubling. I have long been a fan of Italy’s Moscato d’Asti. This floral, fruity, slightly effervescent wine from the Piedmont is made from the partially fermented juice of white muscat grapes. It is sweet, delightfully aromatic and delicate on the palate, low alcohol (6%) and equally comfortable as an aperitif or a dessert wine.

The 2010 Paolo Saracco Moscato d’Asti ($16) is exemplary of the style from a favorite producer. Camposaldo makes a similarly enjoyable 2010 Moscato ($14) from grapes grown in Lombardy. And what better proof do I need of the grape’s newfound popularity than the delightful 2010 Moscato ($7) I just tasted from none other than Australia’s [yellow tail]. The mass producer actually has done a decent job of imitating Italy’s signature style.

One of California’s leading producers of Rhone-style wines is Santa Barbara’s Zaca Mesa. Zaca Mesa was one of the first vineyards in the region, having been established in the Santa Ynez Valley in the early 1970’s. They have released a 2009 Viognier ($20) that offers honey and loads of exotic fruits and a silky texture with a vibrant finish. Their 2007 Roussanne ($25) deals in apricots and figs laced with zippy acidity, full body and an intriguing waxy texture.

Another fine choice is the 2008 Treana White ($25), from one of the leading Paso Robles grower/winemaking families who here has blended Marsanne and Viognier mostly from Monterey’s esteemed Mer Soleil Vineyard into a juicy wine of honeyed citrus and tropical fruits. Washington also is excelling with Rhine varietals. I was especially impressed with Seven Hills 2009 Viognier Talcott Vineyard ($20). The wine explodes with ripe, juicy peach and honeysuckle, with hints of citrus and stone fruits.

Chenin Blanc, native to the Loire Valley, also is a personal favorite. In California, it is usually produced in a fruity, slightly sweet style, though a few brave souls (like Dry Creek Vineyard) make a dry style inspired by the fine wines of Savennieres. I recently tasted for the first time an innovative chenin blanc blend from Pine Ridge, one of the pioneering wineries in the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley. The winery has a reputation as a master at blending. Its 2009 Chenin Blanc + Viognier ($12) is a unique and uniquely successful combination of Clarksburg chenin blanc and Lodi viognier.

The recommendations above are a good start on the summer white wine search. Next comes a quest for Gewurztraminer, Albarino, Verdejo, Torrontes, Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache Blanc, and Pinot Blanc and other good reasons to look forward to spring and summer.

European (And One South African) Reds For Summer Grilling

Although it’s common to think more about white wines as the weather warms, many of us still enjoy a good red, even in summer. I’ve come across several good candidates to match with the season’s grilled and more casual foods.

A fine place to start, maybe to toast the season, is with a bottle of red bubbly. That’s right, red. I suggest the unique Italian sparkler from the Piedmont region known as Brachetto d’Acqui (signifying first the grape, then the town). The 2010 Rosa Regale ($20) from the highly regarded Banfi family is deeply fruited (cherry, strawberry) and exuberant, with refreshingly low alcohol.

As a wine that is generally best slightly chilled, Beaujolais is the ideal red for warm weather. From the northern French region of the same name, Beaujolais is made using a special whole bunch fermentation process solely with the gamay grape, known for a flavor profile of mostly bright red fruits, floral, herbal and mineral notes, and lively acidity. I’ve recently enjoyed several good ones from the highly touted 2009 vintage. Whichever level you choose, Beaujolais represent s one of the best values around.

For a good introduction to the region sample a wine labeled “Beaujolais-Villages.” These are blended from specifically authorized vineyards in the northern of the region. A reliable option here is the 2009 Louis Jadot ($13), which shows a typically lighter but fleshy character with touches of licorice and lively red fruits.

Next try a wine from one of the ten most important villages (or “cru”). Here, a great place to start is with the “Flower Label” wines of Georges Dubeouf, probably the most respected and widely available producer. A good one is the 2009 Morgon ($14), which has richness and depth not often found with many other crus.

There also are single-vineyard Beaujolais that are a real treat for their distinctiveness. Two more from Duboeuf: 2009 Moulin-a-Vent “Tour du Bief” ($17) – quite full and rich, with many layers – and especially 2009 Fleurie “Domaine des Quatre Vents” ($17) – floral, full of ripe fruit, yet balanced and velvety.

From the southern France region of Rousillon near the border with Spain comes another option, this time a blend of so-called Rhone varietals. The 2008 Chateau de Jau Cotes du Roussillon Villages ($16) combines syrah, mourvedre, carignan, and grenache to produce an easy drinking wine of darker fruits and soft tannins.

This time of year, I’m especially fond of Portuguese table wine. While the region surrounding the Douro River in northern Portugal is famous for Port, table wine from the area has become a go-to choice for excellent value. The wines are made with the same varieties used to make Port and even sourced from the same vineyards as each winery’s Port.

The 2008 Dow’s “Valle do Bomfim” ($12) offers bright mixed berry fruit, spicy intrigue and a balance of structure with mellow tannins. The 2008 Quinta de Roriz “Prazo de Roriz” ($17) delivers deep fruit, mostly black cherry, and an appealing mineral note in a stylish frame that also finishes with soft tannins. It probably shouldn’t be a surprise that the region known for making the great Port wines would emerge as a contender in quality table wines.

Finally, for those of you who insist on a Cabernet Sauvignon, I submit the 2008 Glen Carlou “Grand Classique” ($20). South African wines have improved significantly in recent years and this one, Glen Carlou’s signature red wine, is a really fine example of a Bordeaux-style blend. The addition of merlot, petit verdot, malbec and cabernet franc results in a wine with impressive complexity for the price. Strong black cherry and plum wrapped in an oak blanket are accompanied by touches of tobacco and mint. The velvety texture compliments a tight structure.

Whether it’s a classic cab, a hearty Douro, a bottle of Mediterranean sunshine, a refreshing Beaujolais, or an effervescent Italian, you can’t go wrong with red this summer.

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Riesling’s Much Deserved Comeback.

Share your thoughts here about this unique and complex wine.

Riesling (pronounced reez-ling) has a long and noble history, particularly in Germany, Austria, and France. It also has enjoyed popularity in the U.S. but fell out of favor as Chardonnay became the white wine of choice. There is a general perception of Riesling as a sweet wine. And, of course, such mass-market wines as Blue Nun tend to be sweet. But there always has been good dry and off-dry (meaning just a hint of sugar) Riesling and it is these drier styles that seem to be gaining fans. The acid in Riesling is what makes it naturally food-friendly, especially with fish, seafood, Asian foods, poultry, and cheese. For me, German Riesling still is the benchmark. So, my next column will be devoted solely to Germany. This column highlights fine Rieslings from elsewhere around the world.

In Alsace, dry Riesling always has dominated. The wines in my tasting, including three good introductory wines, showed the mineral character that is the hallmark of great Riesling.
• 2005 Hugel (very dry, $20)
• 2005 Marc Kreydenweiss “Au dessus de la loi Andlau” ($27)
• 2005 Schlumberger “Les Prices Abbes” ($17)
• Two biodynamically farmed wines from Marc Kreydenweiss, 2005 “La Dame Wiebelsberg” ($44) and 2005 “La Chateau Kastelberg” ($77), demonstrated the added aromatics, concentration and complexity that can come from Grand Cru vineyards.

Australia has shown a real affinity for Riesling.
• 2006 McWilliams “Hanwood Estate” South East Australia ($12)
• 2007 Penfolds “Thomas Hyland” Adelaide ($15)
• 2006 Wakefield Clare Valley ($17)
• 2006 Lalla Gully Tasmania ($22)

You may be surprised to read that Riesling was one of the first varieties grown in Washington and still is one of the state’s favorite wines.
• 2006 Stonecap Columbia Valley ($11)
• 2006 Pacific Rim Dry ($11)
• 2006 Milbrandt “Traditions” ($13)
• 2005 St. Laurent Columbia Valley ($15)
• 2006 Tsillan Cellars Columbia Valley Estate ($22)

Even California has a history of success with Riesling. Now, production is making a comeback statewide.
• 2006 Beaulieu Vineyard Coastal Estates (California, $9)
• 2006 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve (Monterey, $11)
• 2006 Gainey (Santa Ynez Valley, $13)
• 2007 Chateau St. Jean (Sonoma, $18)
• 2006 Trefethen Dry (Napa, $20)

Finally, you can even find good Riesling from unlikely places. Two surprising hits were a 2007 Cusino-Macul “Dona Isadora” ($15) from Chile and 2003 Chateau Bela ($15) from Slovakia (although, this was less a surprise when I realized it was made by famed German winemaker Egon Muller). Even places like Canada, Idaho and Oregon also produce worthy Rieslings. And don’t forget Colorado. I would argue that Riesling is the state’s best white wine, and one of the finest is made by the Winery at Holy Cross Abbey.

Posted on

Riesling’s Much Deserved Comeback.

Share your thoughts here about this unique and complex wine.

Riesling (pronounced reez-ling) has a long and noble history, particularly in Germany, Austria, and France. It also has enjoyed popularity in the U.S. but fell out of favor as Chardonnay became the white wine of choice. There is a general perception of Riesling as a sweet wine. And, of course, such mass-market wines as Blue Nun tend to be sweet. But there always has been good dry and off-dry (meaning just a hint of sugar) Riesling and it is these drier styles that seem to be gaining fans. The acid in Riesling is what makes it naturally food-friendly, especially with fish, seafood, Asian foods, poultry, and cheese. For me, German Riesling still is the benchmark. So, my next column will be devoted solely to Germany. This column highlights fine Rieslings from elsewhere around the world.

In Alsace, dry Riesling always has dominated. The wines in my tasting, including three good introductory wines, showed the mineral character that is the hallmark of great Riesling.
• 2005 Hugel (very dry, $20)
• 2005 Marc Kreydenweiss “Au dessus de la loi Andlau” ($27)
• 2005 Schlumberger “Les Prices Abbes” ($17)
• Two biodynamically farmed wines from Marc Kreydenweiss, 2005 “La Dame Wiebelsberg” ($44) and 2005 “La Chateau Kastelberg” ($77), demonstrated the added aromatics, concentration and complexity that can come from Grand Cru vineyards.

Australia has shown a real affinity for Riesling.
• 2006 McWilliams “Hanwood Estate” South East Australia ($12)
• 2007 Penfolds “Thomas Hyland” Adelaide ($15)
• 2006 Wakefield Clare Valley ($17)
• 2006 Lalla Gully Tasmania ($22)

You may be surprised to read that Riesling was one of the first varieties grown in Washington and still is one of the state’s favorite wines.
• 2006 Stonecap Columbia Valley ($11)
• 2006 Pacific Rim Dry ($11)
• 2006 Milbrandt “Traditions” ($13)
• 2005 St. Laurent Columbia Valley ($15)
• 2006 Tsillan Cellars Columbia Valley Estate ($22)

Even California has a history of success with Riesling. Now, production is making a comeback statewide.
• 2006 Beaulieu Vineyard Coastal Estates (California, $9)
• 2006 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve (Monterey, $11)
• 2006 Gainey (Santa Ynez Valley, $13)
• 2007 Chateau St. Jean (Sonoma, $18)
• 2006 Trefethen Dry (Napa, $20)

Finally, you can even find good Riesling from unlikely places. Two surprising hits were a 2007 Cusino-Macul “Dona Isadora” ($15) from Chile and 2003 Chateau Bela ($15) from Slovakia (although, this was less a surprise when I realized it was made by famed German winemaker Egon Muller). Even places like Canada, Idaho and Oregon also produce worthy Rieslings. And don’t forget Colorado. I would argue that Riesling is the state’s best white wine, and one of the finest is made by the Winery at Holy Cross Abbey.

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Summer Pairings for Picnics

rich mauroThis summer when you prepare for a picnic, don’t forget the wine. While most people still turn to beer or margaritas to beat the heat, to my palate, there is no better environment for wine than a leisurely picnic or a backyard barbecue. One general guideline I follow is to match modest wine with modest foods. And I extend that to include modest circumstances, like picnics. Most picnics feature an eclectic variety of appetizers and snacks. Consequently the wine choices are myriad. Given the warmer weather and lighter foods, my thoughts turn to crisp, fruity, aromatic whites, such as these:

– 2006 Newhaven Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough ($12)

– 2006 Hogue Pinot Grigio Columbia Valley ($11)

– 2006 Chateau St. Jean Riesling Sonoma County ($15)

– 2006 Chateau St. Jean Gewürztraminer Sonoma County ($15)

A full-flavored rosé, such as the cabernet sauvignon-based 2006 Rosé Napa Valley ($13) from the Michael Mondavi family, also will do the trick.

Spicy appetizers like salsas and buffalo wings are a pairing challenge, to say the least, but wines with higher acid or some sweetness, including those just listed, can hold up to the heat. Other good choices include:

– 2006 Hogue Late Harvest Riesling (screw cap, $12)

– 2006 Kenwood Gewurztraminer Sonoma County ($14)

– 2006 The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey Sauvignon Blanc Reserv ($19)

If you insist on red wine, try the vibrant fruit of an Australian shiraz, like the 2005 Rosemount Diamond label ($10).

If cheese is being served, especially fresh and tangy cheese like goat’s milk, a brisk white, such as the 2006 Hogue Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley ($10), is my first choice. The Dry Creek Vineyards Dry Chenin Blanc ($12), 2005 Covey Run Pinot Grigio Columbia Valley ($9) or a Rhone varietal like the 2004 Marc Kreydenweiss “Perrieres” (biodynamic, $14) also would do nicely, especially with moderately aged cheeses.

Salads may present the toughest challenge for pairing, mainly because of the presence of vinegar. But it’s not impossible. Again, the acidity of a sauvignon blanc — say the 2006 Rosemount Diamond Label ($10) — or pinot grigio, such as a 2005 Tamas Monterey County (screw cap, $12), are most likely to stand up. The 2006 Martin Codax Albarino Rias Baixas ($15) from Spain world be an intriguing alternative.

The options for sandwiches are similar to those for appetizers. Just about any snappy, fruit-forward wine (red, white or pink) should do nicely. But this is where dry rosés really shine. I suggest looking to southern France, where rosé never went out of style. I recently tasted four excellent ones from Provence.

– Domaine Houchart 2006 ($10)

– Château de Pourcieux 2006 ($11)

– Commanderie de la Bargemone 2006 ($13)

– Domaine de la Sauveuse 2006 (organic, $18)

Of course, grilled and barbecued meats and fish often are the centerpieces of a picnic. Here is where the red wines take center stage. For beef or lamb, cabernet sauvignon is a classic choice but I suggest a Bordeaux-style blend: 2003 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve “Meritage” ($12) and 2005 Robert Mondavi Private Selection “Vinetta” ($11). More interesting would be a Sangiovese-based wine like Gabbiano’s 2005 Chianti ($10) and 2004 Chianti Classico ($13) or the 2005 Col d’Orcia “Spezieri” ($13).

Actually, my favorite wines for grilled foods (especially chicken and sausages) and barbecue are zinfandel and syrah. Their jammy fruit, good structure and spice form a beautiful chorus with the smoky, juicy flavors of the grill. These will get you started:

– 2005 Dry Creek Heritage Zinfandel Sonoma County ($16)

– 2005 Rosenblum Zinfandel North Coast ($18)

– 2005 Covey Run “winemaker’s Collection” Syrah ($9)

– 2005 Kendall-Jackson Syrah “Vintner’s Reserve” ($12)

– 2005 Archetype Shiraz Barossa Valley ($15)

– 2004 Marr Syrah Tehama Hills ($19)

Finally, grilled seafood always seems to be less delicate than when cooked in the oven. White wines still work fine, Rosés even better. Best would be Pinot Noir like the 2005 B & G “Bistro Wine” ($9), 2005 Kali Hart Monterey County ($18) or 2005 Tolosa Central Coast ($18) for their earthy, low-tannin character. What are your favorite pairings and suggestions for summer fare? I would welcome your comments and thoughts!