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WINES FOR HOLIDAY MEALS AND GIFTS

RIch Mauro The Peoples Palate

RIch Mauro The Peoples PalateAll American Wines For Your Holiday Meal

Every year I spend almost as much time deciding which wines to serve with our holiday dinner, whether it’s Thanksgiving or Christmas, as the rest of my family does preparing the meal. Part of the reason for this is the simple fact that I know good wine dramatically enhances enjoyment of the meal.

The other more practical reason is that most holiday dinners, whether the traditional “turkey with all the fixins” or something more creative, present such a wide variety of flavors that it truly is challenging to pick a wine to drink throughout the dinner. And there usually are a lot of people at the table, so we need multiple bottles anyway.

So, the question is how to match all that variety. My solution? Quite simply, use different wines with each course. Incidentally, I generally prefer all American wines for these holiday meals.

For instance, a Riesling or a Gewürztraminer are great to start, whether as aperitifs or to pair with appetizers and soup, especially one with a vegetable or chicken base. But both wines provide good acidity and lively fruit to accommodate a wide variety of foods.

A good Riesling is enticingly aromatic with bracing acidity and typically green apple, citrus and stone fruit flavors. Most intriguing, there often is a distinctive mineral component. I especially have been enjoying Washington State Riesling these days. All are slightly sweet unless otherwise indicated.

  • 2010 Chateau St. Michelle Dry ($9), Riesling ($9), Harvest Select (sweet, $10)
  • 2010 Snoqualmie Winemaker’s Select (sweet, $10)
  • 2010 Pacific Rim Dry ($10), Riesling ($10), Sweet ($10)
  • 2009 Hogue Cellars Columbia Valley Riesling ($10)
  • 2010 Columbia Crest Grand Estates ($11)

I especially like Gewürztraminer because the grape’s typical spiciness adds complexity that helps the wine match with earthy, autumn flavors. Also look for lychee, grapefruit, apricot, and peach aromas and flavors. The wines below are just slightly sweet and each is an exceptional value.

  • 2009 Hogue Columbia Valley ($10)
  • 2010 Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley ($9)
  • 2010 Snoqualmie “Naked” ($12) organic grapes
  • 2010 Columbia Crest “Two Vines” ($8)

The zesty green fruits and distinctive herbaceousness of Sauvignon Blanc enable this wine to pair with multiple courses. These two are perennial favorites.

  • 2010 Grgich Hills “Fumé Blanc” Napa Valley ($30)
  • 2010 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($20)

For the reds, I like Pinot noir for its versatility. Its most common flavors – cherry, plum, cranberry, blueberry, brown spices, and earthy/mushroom notes – are much like the various flavors on the typical Thanksgiving table. Also, many tend to be on the light side, making them more food friendly. Pinot Noir definitely is pricey but each of these wines delivers fine quality within its price range.

  • 2009 Carmel Road Monterey ($20) smooth texture, firm palate
  • 2009 Alta Maria Santa Maria Valley ($28) elegant, complex
  • 2009 Saintsbury Carneros ($28) bright fruit, nice acidity
  • 2009 La Crema Russian River Valley ($40) dark fruit, structured
  • 2009 Cherry Pie “Stanly Ranch” Carneros ($50) intense fruit, full body

If you prefer more outgoing, strongly flavored reds, I suggest Zinfandel, the so-called All-American wine. It is a European immigrant that has fully adapted to California’s hospitable wine growing regions. The grape’s bright raspberry blackberry, and black cherry fruit, peppery spice and brash, generous character should hold up well to the challenge presented by all those different flavors on the plate.

  • 2009 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($16) excellent quality for the price
  • 2009 Edmeades Mendocino County ($20) a lot of power
  • 2008 Montelena Estate Napa Valley ($30) elegant, Bordeaux-style
  • 2008 Dashe Florence Vineyard ($32) spicy, structured and full flavored
  • 2009 Frank Family Napa Valley ($37) lots of fruit with fine spice
  • 2008 Dutcher Crossing Bernier-Sibary Vineyard ($39) intense and powerful

Holiday Wine Gift Ideas

It is also time to start looking for a special wine to give that wine lover in your life. With ongoing economic uncertainty, it is more important than ever to be extra careful in our purchases, to find those little gems that can make an extra special gift. Well, I’m here to help, suggesting some exciting wines to make your decision easier.

As much as I am an advocate for lesser-known wines, you can’t go wrong with California Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. These are still the most popular red and white wines in America, making them reliable choices for a gift. And they also carry a certain cache; that something that says you cared enough to select a special wine.

For Cabernet Lovers:

  • 2007 Stonestreet Monument Ridge ($45) demonstrates why many swear by the quality possible from mountain vineyards; really impressive character and complexity throughout; strong tannins and highly structured; intense blackberry, currant, licorice, and dried herb aromas and flavors; this is one to cellar for at least a decade
  • 2007 Hess Collection Mount Veeder ($48) another impressive mountain vineyard; beautiful blackberry, currant and earthy flavors; dry, yet balanced and complex with cedar, and tobacco notes
  • 2007 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($40) classic Napa Cab; noticeable oak, concentrated dark berries, black currant, chocolate, and spices; somewhat tough tannins right now but lots of potential for development
  • 2007 Jordan Alexander Valley ($52) elegant and dry, with seductive blackberry and black currant fruit offset with herbal, and tobacco notes; dare I say “Bordeaux-like?”
  • 2008 Treana Red Paso Robles ($35) from Paso Robles pioneer Austin Hope; blended with 30% syrah; ripe, juicy dark fruits and black licorice; hints of tobacco and spice; luscious and graceful
  • 2007 J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyard ($40) St. Helena vineyard; admirable depth and complexity; toasty oak, elegant but concentrated blackberry and cherry; firm tannins; immediately enjoyable
  • 2008 Justin Isosceles Paso Robles ($62) all five Bordeaux varietals in this intriguing blend; dried berries with earthy tones; scents of iron and herbs; well structured

For Chardonnay Devotees:

  • 2009 Stonestreet Bear Point ($55) smoky oak and buttery notes overlay complex citrus, peach and tropical fruit with stony notes; creamy texture but very brisk, so much so it is the rare Chardonnay that needs a few years to open up but will reward patience
  • 2009 Alta Maria Santa Maria Valley ($25) just a really delightful wine; juicy tangerine and citrus with a ribbon of lively acidity; honey and cinnamon add complexity
  • 2009 Landmark Overlook Sonoma County ($28) another delightful, great value; fairly full-bodied with a complex of aromas and flavors including honey, citrus, nectarine, and peach
  • 2009 Patz & Hall Chardonnays: This Pinot Noir and Chardonnay specialist produces a wide array of wines from many of the best vineyards in California. Three new releases, though pricey, really deliver the goods:
  • 2009 Sonoma Coast ($35) focused tropical fruit, creamy texture with a mineral edge and a refreshing finish
  • 2009 Russian River Valley Dutton Ranch ($39) rich, oaky style bursting with pineapple, citrus, and pear
  • 2009 Carneros Hudson Vineyard ($55) oaky, buttery, with a lush palate; vibrant pear and tangerine

A final thought. Whichever wines you ultimately choose, and any of these would make a wonderful choice, be sure to take time this holiday season to raise a glass with friends or family and appreciate the goodness in your glass, on the table, and in each other.

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NOTHING PETITE ABOUT PETITE SIRAH

These days I find consumers are more interested in experiencing wines with unfamiliar flavor profiles and more reasonable prices. If you are looking for full flavored wines that provide a lot of wine for the money, consider Petite Sirah. I don’t think you will be disappointed.

The roots of the petite sirah vine can be traced back to the south of France in the 1880s, where Dr. Francois Durif propagated a crossing of syrah and the obscure variety peloursin. The resulting vine naturally was designated “durif.” Although the grape never caught on in France, it was brought to California and became valued as a blending grape to give wines structure, body and color. In fact, many of the generically labeled red wines produced during the following century contained large amounts of petite sirah. Now, DNA testing has proven that the vast majority of what has been known by that name in California is actually durif.

Concannon Vineyard is credited as the first California winery to bottle a varietal Petite Sirah in 1961. Foppiano Vineyards, another Petite Sirah proponent, followed soon after. Interestingly, these prescient families staked their reputations on a grape that had declined (from about 7500 acres in the 1930s to around 4500 during the 1960s). It paid off because acreage subsequently grew to a peak of about 14,000 acres by 1976, as the grape often was used to improve the quality of many generic red wine blends. Then the grape went into decline again during the 1980s and 1990s and acreage dropped to around 2400 in 1995. Since then, though, many vintners again have come to realize the quality possible from the grape and plantings almost tripled by 2005 and reached about 7500 acres in 2010.

Wineries up and down the state now are making varietal Petite Sirah wines. And a promotional organization, P. S. I Love You (www.psiloveyou.org), which was founded in 2002 with 39 charter members, has more than doubled to 81 winery members in 2011. I think it’s fair to say that organization and its founding director, Jo Diaz deserves much of the credit for the grape’s growing popularity.

Despite its name and origins, petite sirah grape is not a lesser version of syrah. It is a distinct variety that happens to have syrah as one of its parents. Thus, it can display a similar flavor profile to syrah – dark berries, tobacco, leather, earth, mineral and pepper, with an ability to age well. But there are differences – it often produces bigger, denser, more rustic wines that generally age quite well.

Petite Sirah also is a good companion for full flavored foods, including red meats, game, strong cheeses, mushroom dishes, stews and the like. It also would be a fine companion for grilled foods and barbeque. One serving note, though. These wines generally are so full flavored and tannic they will stay fresh for several hours and, in some cases, even a few days after opening a bottle.

I wrote my first review of Petite Sirah in 2003. Although most of the wines were quite good and showed nice dark berry fruit, they also revealed the rough edges and strong tannins of the grape’s rustic nature. I often appreciate rustic wines but many took it too far. With my second tasting report in 2007, I noticed more refinement in the wines but many were still big and tough, a bit exhausting to drink. This time, I was impressed that as a group (20 producers and 24 wines tasted blind), the wines showed more abundant fruit, more complexity, smoother textures, more manageable tannins, and overall better balance. My favorites most clearly reflected these qualities on my palate.

To the extent any of my tastings are representative of California Petite Sirah in general, I perceive this as a positive evolution in style and quality. My favorites most clearly reflected these qualities on my palate. One thing that hasn’t changed, though: Petite Sirah still delivers a lot of character for the money.

I have to say the biggest surprise of my tasting is that Miro Tcholakov made my two favorite wines. His 2008 Miro Cellars ($30) uses fruit from Rockpile, a northern Sonoma County appellation. And tons of fruit there is, along with subtle complexities like licorice and a concentrated, yet elegant impact. The only downside is there are just 50 cases. Miro also is responsible for the 2009 Trentadue Alexander Valley Estate ($18). I really loved this wine’s berry pie fruit, silky texture and powdery tannins. I should add I also liked the reserve style 2009 Trentadue “La Storia” ($28), which showed more woodsy, tobacco notes but also strong acids that suggest a long life.

And there were other good wines from Sonoma. The 2007 Field Stone “Staten Family Reserve” ($35) from and Alexander Valley vineyard planted in 1894 that is now farmed organically and sustainably, was rather brooding and tough at first but eventually yielded to time and revealed deep fruit to go along with the strong tannins. From one of the earliest Petite Sirah advocates, the Foppiano Russian River Valley ($20) had nice blueberry fruit accented with cinnamon and tobacco aromas and toasty, peppery flavors.

And then there was another surprise. Two of my other favorites came from Cabernet country, the Napa Valley: 2008 R & B Cellars “Pizzicato” ($28) and 2008 Ballentine “Fig Tree Vineyard” ($25). Both wines come from single vineyards and both are concentrated, tannic wines that would benefit from cellaring. The R & B adds black licorice, pine and tobacco notes, while the Ballentine goes more to ripe berries and spice.

Other northern California wine regions also were well represented. From El Dorado County in the Sierra Foothills, the 2007 Lava Cap “Granite Hill Vineyard Reserve” ($30) began big and brash with touches of mint and cinnamon but later opened up to reveal lovely sweet fruit. From nearby Lodi, the 2007 McCay ($24) seemed reticent to show its fruit at first. Burnt notes and tight tannins dominated the wine but that dissipated and later the wine showed good rasiny fruit and hints of cinnamon and mint. By contrast, the 2007 Shannon Ridge ($24) from Lake County, although finishing with tough tannins, immediately displayed its intense blueberry fruit. Despite considerable size and weight, it had an enticing texture.

I also enjoyed two wines from Paso Robles. A 2007 Clayhouse Red Cedar Vineyard ($25) offered spice and coffee in the nose but lots of fruit and soft tannins on the palate. The 2007 Vina Robles “Jardine Estate” ($26) was dominated by dry forest and spicy herb notes but presented a nice core of red fruit with black licorice followed by a hint of bitterness.

Finally, there also were several notable values.

• 2009 The Crusher “Grower’s Selection” ($14). One of three wines in my tasting from Don Sebastiani & Sons, a company that offers an extensive portfolio of wines made with grapes from numerous regions in the state. This one benefits from Clarksburg fruit that yields tasty currant and raisin fruit balanced with soft tannins. Their 2008 Smoking Loon California ($9) is a bit too syrupy for me but that is offset with tobacco notes and fresh tannins. It should be a crowd pleaser.
• 2008 Bogle ($11). This winery, well known for its value priced wines, has been producing Petite Sirah since 1978. Juicy black fruits are offset with minty peppery notes.
• 2007 Parducci (Mendocino) ($11) is made with organically grown grapes from the oldest winery in Mendocino. Parducci is deeply committed to sustainability from the vineyard to the winery and has produced a juicy wine with fresh fruit and admirable intensity.
• 2008 Concannon “Conservancy” ($15). This winery, founded in the Livermore Valley 1883, has sourced the grapes for this wine only from growers who have placed their land in a legal trust that protects the vineyard from urban develop. That’s especially good for consumers because this wine is full flavored and large scaled.

Although Cabernet Sauvignon is by far still the most popular red wine, producers and consumers alike have become interested in alternatives both for more reasonable prices and to experience different flavor profiles. If you haven’t tried it lately, I suggest you consider Petite Sirah. If you are looking for full flavored wines that generally provide a lot of wine for the money, I don’t think you will be disappointed.

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CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR CONTINUES ITS EVOLUTION

vineyards pinot rich mauro peoples palateThere is something about pinot noir that seems to inspire an almost mad passion about the grape and its wine. It probably has to do with the grape’s notoriously temperamental nature, as well as its legendary ability to reflect the characteristics of the soil, climate and environment in which it is grown (what the French call ”terroir”).

Winemakers seem to be drawn to the dual challenge of making good wine from such a difficult grape that is also a uniquely expressive wine. Unfortunately, most winemakers fail at one or both of these challenges more often than they succeed. But when they do succeed, for winemakers and consumers, it’s like finding the Holy Grail.

The Burgundy region of France has long been prized as the source of the most spectacular Pinot Noir in the world. Pinot Noir from Oregon (which I reviewed in my last post) is now considered by many to be the second best place in the world to grow the grape. However, knowledgeable wine consumers know that California can produce Pinot Noir that rivals and even exceeds that of Burgundy and Oregon.

With producers identifying more appropriate growing sites (namely cooler climates with longer growing seasons that enable the grapes to ripen while retaining good acidity), matching better quality clones to particular sites, cultivating with extra care, and employing improved vinification techniques, there are countless good to outstanding wines now available for consumers. Yet my recent tastings of California pinot noirs from the 2007, 2008 and 2009 vintages demonstrated the quixotic nature of the quest for the Pinot Noir grail.

California Pinot Noir producers still have a challenge in getting the price/quality relationship right. Certainly, California Pinots are good in their own right and are (often significantly) less expensive than Burgundy. It’s just that Pinot Noir generally is not the wine to choose if you are looking for a good price/quality ratio. Still, my tastings did turn up more good values than the last time I did a major review of California Pinot Noir.

Style wise, most California Pinot Noir is vinified darker, fruitier, more concentrated and larger scaled than Burgundy’s reference point. But I think I detected the beginnings of a stylistic shift among winemakers. The best wines in the tasting delivered more elegance, finesse and earthy complexity than I’ve tasted previously, while still containing mouthfilling flavors and intense perfume.

My recent tastings included a representative sampling of California’s major pinot noir growing regions. Recommendations are presented moving from north to south. My favorites are in bold but all wines are recommended in their price range.

First, I found two wines labeled with just a “California” designation. Such wines are most likely to sport an every day price. The 2008 Murphy-Goode ($14) and 2009 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($18) of good varietal character for the money.

Mendocino County is best known to this palate for fine Zinfandel and Gewurztraminer but in recent years has taken its place among the top sources of Pinot Noir, especially from the Anderson Valley. The 2007 Paul Dolan, made from organic grapes, ($30) was the only Mendocino wine in my tastings but it showed admirable depth, richness and balance.

Sonoma County contains arguably the most abundant sources for Pinot Noir in the state. Combined, the Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast and western part of Carneros account for probably more outstanding Pinot Noir than anywhere else in the state.

The Russian River Valley, which stretches through central Sonoma County, produces many of California’s most celebrated and expensive Pinot Noirs.

  • 2009 Rodney Strong ($20). This pioneering Sonoma winery is making the best wines in its 40+ year history, up and down its extensive portfolio.
  • 2009 Davis Bynum ($35). Making Pinot in the valley since 1973, now part of the Jess Jackson empire.
  • 2008 Sequana Dutton Ranch ($40). This winery is anther successful venture from the owners of the Hess Collection in Napa Valley.
  • 2007 Patz & Hall Chenoweth ($55) This 20 year-old Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialist sources fruit from around the state to make almost exclusively single-vineyard bottlings.

The Sonoma Coast is California’s newest “hot” region for Pinot Noir. It is a large area but already contains several of the state’s most respected vineyards.

  • 2009 La Crema ($24). This thirty year Pinot and Chardonnay specialist continues to craft fine examples of the grape.
  • 2008 MacRostie ($30)
  • 2007 MacRostie Wildcat Mountain ($40). Winemaker Steve MacRostie, who established his own operation in 1987 in Carneros, now is making impressive wines from this new vineyard.
  • 2007 Patz & Hall ($42)

Carneros straddles southern Napa andSonoma and has become a popular source of chardonnay and pinot noir, thanks to the moderating influence of the San Pablo Bay.

  • 2008 Domaine Carneros ($35). This excellent sparkling wine producer has fashioned this wine from organic grapes.
  • 2007 Patz & Hall Hyde ($60)

California’s Central Coast also has emerged as a wellspring of outstanding, though often outstandingly expensive Pinot Noir. Several regions deserve attention.

Certain microclimates of Monterey County have been cultivated successfully by small, quality minded producers. Two wines crafted from selected vineyards within Monterey – 2009 La Crema ($24) and 2008 Pali “Summit” (Monterey and Santa Barbara blend, $29), from a fairly new negociant and Brian Loring, one of the state’s most respected pinot winemakers – are a good introduction to the region.

The Arroyo Seco region in the southwestern corner of the county has produced some good Pinots, like the 2008 J. Lohr “Fog’s Reach” ($35), a fine single vineyard wine from one of the state’s larger wineries. But its the Santa Lucia Highlands overlooking the Salinas Valley that especially has emerged as prime Pinot country, producing some of the state’s most dramatic and sought after Pinot Noirs.

  • 2008 Kali Hart ($21). This is a second label for Talbott Vineyards, one of the stat’s most prestigious Chardonnay producers. Named after the owner’s youngest daughter, this Pinot is made in an approachable style using estate fruit.
  • 2008 Alta Maria ($25)
  • 2008 Sequana “Sarmento” ($32)
  • 2008 Highflyer “Doctor’s” ($38). This comes from the same group that is producing exciting wines under the Sommerston and Priest Ranch labels.
  • 2008 Talbott “Sleepy Hollow” ($40). The is the signature vineyard from this Monterey winemaking pioneer and fine clothing purveyor.
  • 2007 Patz & Hall “Pisoni” ($80)

Farther south, in San Louis Obispo County, the Arroyo Grande Valley and the Edna Valley often are overlooked but produce some fine Pinot Noir. Unfortunately, none were included in my tasting.

Next to Sonoma, Santa Barbara County has emerged as one of the state’s premier Pinot Noir regions, with two great Pinot Noir AVAs.  The 2009 Byron Santa Barbara County ($17) offers a good preview of the structure concentration, and ripe flavors typical of the area.

At the northern end of the county, the Santa Maria Valley is home to the famous Bien Nacido Vineyard and a growing number of impressive vineyards. The valley also sources a growing number of wineries. My tastings revealed an impressive portfolio from Byron, one of the pioneers of the area. Byron planted the first vineyard to vinifera grapes in Santa Barbara County in 1964 and has been in the forefront of winemaking achievement in the area ever since.

  • 2008 Santa Maria Valley ($26)
  • 2008 Nielson ($34)
  • 2008 Bien Nacido ($40)
  • 2008 Sierra Madre ($40)
  • 2008 Julia’s Vineyard ($40)
  • 2008 Monument ($60)

Santa Barbara County not surprisingly has experienced the Sideways effect more than any other region, not surprising given that the movie was set there. But the Santa Ynez Valley and the Santa Maria Valley in particular had become recognized for some of the state’s best Pinot Noirs long before the movie. Certain growing areas within Santa Barbara County recently have produced such quality that the county can now contend with Sonoma as California’s best Pinot Noir region.

At the northern end of the county, the Santa Maria Valley benchlands are home to the famous Bien Nacido Vineyard and a growing number of pinot noir vineyards.

From a narrow opening near the Pacific Ocean, the Santa Ynez Valley broadens inland encompassing the vineyards and wineries that inspired the movie “Sideways.” The Santa Rita Hills in the western end of the valley, the home of the celebrated Sanford & Benedict vineyard, has garnered special attention in recent years. The ten-year-old hillside vineyard of Sea Smoke is producing some of the area’s best grapes. Rather than focusing on bottlings of individual blocks, Sea Smoke crafts different expressions of the site. These two new releases, while different (Southing is more elegant and seductive; Ten is more powerful and extracted) are both breathtaking.

  • 2008 Sea Smoke Southing ($52)
  • 2008 Sea Smoke Ten ($80) 
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Winemaker Visits Offer Benefits of First Hand Access

For a wine devotee, Denver is a blessed place. We have always had good distribution of even the most renowned and rare wines. Similarly, we are graced with countless visits from wineries eager to tap into our sophisticated market. Certainly one of the more enjoyable aspects of being a wine writer is the opportunity to meet and taste wines with winery owners and winemakers. Any loss of objectivity is balanced by the opportunity to meet these creative individuals one-on-one. In the latter months of last year, I had the pleasure of visiting with winemakers from all over the world.

Reflecting a growing trend in the wine industry, two of the winemakers emphasized their wineries’ commitment to sustainability. Dave Pearce, winemaker for New Zealand’s Grove Mill in Marlborough, explained the winery’s efforts to achieve carbon neutrality. Established in 1988 by a group of local growers and wine enthusiasts, Grove Mill has become a leader in eco-friendly practices and sustainable winemaking. Over the years, Grove Mill has implemented numerous initiatives and innovations that have helped reduce the carbon dioxide emissions and environmental impacts associated with the growing, production and shipping of its wines, including water conservation, heat recovery, packaging and shipping, and protecting the winery’s neighboring wetlands. As a result, Grove Mill has received numerous green certifications and touts its wines as among the first carbon-neutral products available to consumers worldwide.

In Chile, Emiliana has had sustainability as its primary objective ever since it was founded in 1986. Winemaker Antonio Bravo shared the winery’s commitment to producing wines using integrated vineyard management practices. To that end, they now farm more than 2800 acres in the some of the prime of regions of Casablanca, Maipo and Rapel. This success should be no surprise, as the winery is owned by the Guilisasti family, who also manages the wildly successful Concha y Toro brand. About ten years ago, they began a process of integrating their properties and establishing a network of organic and biodynamic (for the G and Coyam wine) vineyards. Utilizing sustainable agriculture and minimizing the use of synthetic products has garnered Emiliana its own sustainability certification.

With a bit more history behind them, the Boscaini family has been stewards of the vineyards of Masi since the lat 1800s. It seems you can’t last that long without being innovative. And this family, especially over the last fifty years, has been just that. From leading efforts in the 1950’s to identify the historic “cru” vineyard sites for Amarone, to reinventing the traditional technique of double fermentation with the introduction of Campofiorin in 1964, to updating the style of Amarone, using new appassimento and vinification technologies, Masi has been in the forefront of winemaking in the Veneto. Masi wines reflect a commitment to blending tradition with modernity. Masi’s vineyards in northeastern Italy are in the most historic and prestigious viticultural zones and its wines are made with indigenous grapes. But Masi’s winemakers also carefully employ modern techniques to ensure the highest quality.

One of the benefits of these winemaker visits is they offer the chance to learn first hand about new developments at a winery. A good example of this was a meeting with Brian Cosi, assistant winemaker at Freemark Abbey. This winery’s origins can be traced to 1886. The property went through numerous ownership changes in the ensuing decades. And its modern history began in 1966 when it was purchased by three partners who subsequently built it into one of the Napa Valley’s most highly regarded wineries. But it is now part of the seemingly ever-growing Jess Jackson wine empire and the future looks brighter than ever. Brian pointed out that under Jackson Family Farms, Freemark Abbey production has gone from 40,000 cases to 25,000. This is the result of stricter selections in assembly of their Napa Valley Merlot, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon, and particularly the vineyard-designated Bosche and Sycamore Cabernets. The winery still produces admirable Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and their famous late harvest Riesling “Edelwein Gold.”

There also are exciting developments at J Vineyards & Winery in the Russian River Valley. For the winery’s first two decades, owner Judy Jordan focused on establishing the winery as one of California’s premier sparkling wine producers. She had established the winery in 1986, creating her own path to continuing her family’s winemaking tradition (Her father owns Jordan Vineyard & Winery). Although those years saw production of some pretty good Chardonnay and Pinot Gris, over the last decade, Judy has pursued a vision of establishing J Vineyards as a leader in California Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. Here’s where winemaker George Bursick comes in. A thirty-year veteran of the wine industry, George is the ideal winemaker to work with J’s prime Russian River Valley fruit. He was in town recently to showcase an impressing range of newly released single vineyard Pinot Noir. Look for “J” to become a highly sought after purveyor of this enticing wine.

The wines:

Grove Mill

2007 Riesling ($15)
2008 Sauvignon Blanc ($15)
2007 Chardonnay ($16)
2006 Pinot Gris ($20)
2008 Pinot Noir ($22)

Emiliana

Natura Label ($11)
2008 Sauvignon Blanc
2008 Gewurztraminer
2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
2006 Carmenere

Novus Label ($17)
2005 Cabernet-Merlot
2006 Carmenere-Cabernet

2006 Coyam ($30)
2005 G ($90)

Masi

2007 Masianco (pinot grigio, $16)
2005 Serego Alighieri “Bello Ovile” (Tuscan sangiovese, $19)
2005 CampoFiorin “Ripasso” ($20)
2005 Amarone Classico “Costasera” ($33)
2001 Serego Alighieri Amarone Classico “Vaio Armaron” ($36)
2003 Recioto Valpolicella Classico “Casal dei Ronchi Sergio Alighieri”
(500 ml, $60)

Freemark Abbey

2007 Sauvignon Blanc ($24)
2007 Chardonnay ($22)
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon ($35)
2005 Merlot ($25)
2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Bosche ($70)
2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Sycamore Vineyard ($70)

J Vineyards & Winery

2008 Pinot Gris ($16)
2007 Chardonnay ($28)
2007 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley ($35)
2007 Pinot Noir Robert Thomas ($50)
2007 Pinot Noir Nicole’s ($50)
2007 Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast ($50)

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California Pinot Noir Hits Its Stride

It was not all that long ago that most California Pinot Noir was just pleasant at best, while much of it didn’t even rise to that level. Thankfully, that is no longer true. With producers identifying more appropriate growing sites (mostly cooler climates), there are countless good to outstanding wines now available for consumers.

My biggest concern is that most Pinot Noir is pretty expensive, as you will see. Although I have resigned myself to this problem with Burgundy, these California Pinots are good in their own right and are (often significantly) less expensive. In the column, I’ve categorized my recommendations by the state’s main Pinot Noir regions and highlight the best values in bold.

Mendocino County is best known for fine Zinfandel and Gewurztraminer but in recent years especially the Anderson Valley has taken its place among the top sources of Pinot Noir.

2006 Goldeneye Anderson Valley ($55). This is the tenth vintage from this Duckhorn owned Pinot specialist and it continues a string of quality wines.

2007 Migration Anderson Valley ($34). This is the seventh vintage and a solid effort from the Goldeneye folks in a more immediately drinkable style.

Sonoma County contains arguably the most abundant sources for Pinot Noir in the state. Combined, the Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast and western part of Carneros account for probably more outstanding Pinot Noir than anywhere else in the state.

Russian River Valley

2007 Pali Bluffs ($19). This young Pinot specialist was formed in 2005 by a group of friends and coworkers. Brian Loring, one of the state’s most respected pinot winemakers, makes the wines.

2006 Freeman ($44). Founded in 2001 by Ken and Akiko Freeman, this winery works with several highly regarded growers to source top quality fruit.

2007 Sequana Dutton Ranch ($40). Sequana is the promising first venture into Pinot Noir for Hess Family Estates (owners of the Hess Collection in Napa Valley).

2007 Sequana Sundawg Ridge Vineyard ($50)

2006 Patz & Hall Chenoweth ($55). This 20 year-old Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialist sources fruit from around the state to make almost exclusively single-vineyard bottlings.

Sonoma Coast

2007 La Crema ($25). La Crema was founded in 1979 and quickly established a reputation for good value Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It is now part of the Jess Jackson empire.

2006 MacRostie Wildcat Mountain ($40). Winemaker Steve MacRostie, who established his own operation in 1987 in Carneros, now is making impressive wines from this new vineyard.

2007 Patz & Hall ($42)

2006 Freeman ($44)

2006 Freeman Akiko’s Cuvee ($54)

Carneros

2007 Chateau St. Jean Sonoma County ($20). One of the benchmark wineries of Sonoma County now part of the Fosters/Beringer conglomerate, this wine contains mostly fruit from the Benoist Ranch in Carneros, with some Russian River Valley fruit from the famed Durell Vineyard.

2007 Sebastiani ($28). Founded in 1904, this historic winery is now owned by Robert Foley who also owns such Central Coast wineries as Foley, Curtis and Firestone and Napa Valley’s Kuleto.

2007 Clos du Val ($30). This winery with a distinctively French heritage was founded in the Napa Valley in 1972 with a focus on Bordeaux varietals. It since has established a strong presence in Carneros.

2007 Etude ($42). Another highly regarded producer in the Fosters/Beringer stable.

2007 MacRostie Carneros ($30)

Although large swaths of Monterey County have been given over to large corporate vineyards, certain microclimates have been cultivated successfully by small, quality minded producers. The Santa Lucia Highlands overlooking the Salinas Valley especially has emerged as prime Pinot country.

Santa Lucia Highlands

2007 Paraiso ($25). Growers in Monterey since 1978 began bottling their own wines about 20 years ago with notable results.

2007 Pessagno Lucia Highland Vineyard ($28). Steve Pessagno, a longtime winemaker and grower in the area, now is making waves with his eponymous winery.

2007 Sequana Sarmento Vineyard ($32)

Other Monterey recommendations:

2006 Irony Monterey ($16). Originally conceived of as a Napa Valley brand by Delicato Family Vineyards, they found Monterey, where the family owns San Bernabe Vineyard, a more suitable place for Pinot Noir.

2007 Kali Hart Monterey ($19). This is a second label for Talbott Vineyards, one of the stat’s most prestigious Chardonnay producers. Named after the owner’s youngest daughter, this Pinot is made in an approachable style using estate fruit.

Next to Sonoma, Santa Barbara County has emerged in recent years as the state’s premier Pinot Noir region, with two great Pinot Noir AVAs. At the northern end of the county, the Santa Maria Valley is home to the famous Bien Nacido Vineyard and a growing number of impressive vineyards.

From a narrow opening near the Pacific Ocean, the Santa Ynez Valley broadens inland encompassing the vineyards and wineries that inspired the movie “Sideways.” The Santa Rita Hills in the western end of the valley, the home of the celebrated Sanford & Benedict vineyard, has garnered special attention in recent years.

Santa Maria Valley

2007 Cambria Julia’s Vineyard ($21). Cambria is a twenty year-old estate owned by Jackson Family Estates and a reliable source of good values.

2006 Byron Nielson ($28). This was the first vineyard planted to vinifera grapes in Santa Barbara County in 1964. Since then Byron has been in the forefront of winemaking achievement in the area.

2007 Cambria Bench Break Vineyard ($30)

2006 Byron Bien Nacido ($39)

2006 Byron Sierra Madre ($40)

2007 Fess Parker Bien Nacido Santa Barbara ($50). The well-known actor planted a vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley in 1989 and now has extensive holdings, as well as an inn and spa. They also source fruit from top vineyards in the county, as in this wine.

2007 Fess Parker Pommard Clone Bien Nacido ($50)

2006 Byron Monument ($60)

Santa Ynez Valley Santa Rita Hills

2007 Sea Smoke Southing ($50). This ten-year-old hillside vineyard has quickly established itself as a producer of some of the area’s best grapes. They focus on bottling different expressions of the site. These two new releases, while different (Southing is more elegant; Ten is more powerful) are both breathtaking.

2007 Sea Smoke Ten ($80)

2007 Fess Parker Ashley’s ($50)

2007 Fess Parker Clone 115 ($50)

Other Santa Barbara County:

2007 Pali Huntington ($19)