Every year since my wife and I were married 25 years ago (many of those with Tricia’s parents and the last eleven with our son), we have tried to visit northern New Mexico. We have only missed a few of those years. And, as many great places as there are in this magical area, we have gravitated most often to Santa Fe.
We have enjoyed many fine accommodations over the years and this year we were able to stay at one of our favorites, the Eldorado Hotel. Part of the prestigious international luxury chain, Preferred Hotels & Resorts, the Eldorado is located right downtown about three blocks from the Plaza. As nice as our room was, we especially appreciated the friendly, attentive service from the staff – especially the front desk and the valet. Kudos! Although the Santa Fe International Folk Art Market and the Sculptural Objects & Functional Art (SOFA WEST) exposition were the big attractions for the weekend (not to mention the Santa Fe Opera), we opted for a more leisurely weekend.
That meant one day strolling through the New Mexico Museum of Art. This nearly 100 year-old museum houses a sizable permanent collection of works, most created by New Mexico-based artists. We particularly enjoyed the exhibit “How the West was One: The Art of New Mexico,” which included 70 works by Native American, Hispanic, and European-American artists. It is a fascinating illustration of the intercultural history of New Mexico art over the last 125 years. The next day we made our obligatory visit to the Plaza to shop for Native American art, mostly silver jewelry from Native Americans who sell directly to the public from their places in front of the Palace of the Governors. We always end up buying something and this time was no different.
We also made our fifth journey through the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum (just a few blocks off the Plaza). We always enjoy this iconic artist’s dramatic and evocative works, both in the permanent collection and the changing exhibitions. The current exhibit of her abstract works showed a different, fascinating side of her art. Another day we enjoyed visiting the newly transformed Railyard District one day. It’s really amazing the extent to which recent renovations of this area just outside of downtown has turned it into a destination, with a variety of shops and restaurants and, most importantly, one of the country’s best farmers’ markets.
Our other planned activity for the weekend was a stop at “Body of Santa Fe” for what has become almost a ritual for us in recent years – massages at the Body Spa. And afterwards snacks at the excellent vegetarian café. Which leads me to the main reason I crave an annual Santa Fe fix: the food. As long as we have been coming to this special place, I remain convinced that this is one of the world’s great culinary cities. This is a city with soul. That soul originates from its history and culture and emanates from its food, a synthesis of its native and Spanish heritage with western U.S. influences. Recently, the food community here increasingly has enriched that heritage by celebrating the variety of the world’s cuisines and the importance of the local, organic ethic.
Our strategy on this trip followed that of previous visits: to combine old favorites with new discoveries. Dinner Friday night was at the Chocolate Maven, which qualified in both categories, since it has served breakfast and lunch but only recently opened for dinner. We had loved breakfast here before and the dinner menu posted online looked enticing. We weren’t disappointed. For instance, entrees such as Mushroom Quinoa Chile Relleno (I’m a sucker for a good pepper and Maven’s Chile Relleno was fantastic), Enchiladas Oaxaca, and a great halibut special were most satisfying. I should add that there was a glitch in the kitchen during our meal but the management took care of the problem promptly and without urging from us and did so beyond expectations. Now that’s the way to run a restaurant.
For breakfast Saturday morning, we just wandered downstairs to enjoy a relaxing meal at the Eldorado’s highly regarded Old House restaurant. We had really good pancakes, breakfast burrito, eggs, pastries and strong coffee. Saturday night, we met our friends Gail and Michael (who just happened to be at in Albuquerque for a conference and made a day trip to Santa Fe) for dinner at Restaurant Martin. Tricia and I had enjoyed Chef Martin Rios’ highly acclaimed food before when he was the Executive Chef at the Old House. So, we were excited to see what he would do with his own spot. Located in a cozy house, this is an elegant, yet casual restaurant well worth a visit. Everything we had lived up to expectations but the Wild Mushroom and Nantucket Bay Scallop Risotto and Maine Diver Sea Scallops were the consensus favorites.
Sunday morning, we all went to breakfast at Tune Up Café. From the research I had done before the trip, this sounded like our kind of place. All the reviews said great breakfast (and lunch and dinner), excellent New Mexican plates and even
some Salvadoran dishes. We all enjoyed our food (for instance, another fantastic Chile Relleno) but Tricia couldn’t stop exclaiming about her pancakes, which she said were the best she had ever had. Monday morning before heading on the road home, we stopped by Tune-Up Cafe again. We both had to reprise our dishes from the day before! Dinner Sunday night was super casual as we opted for barbecue and beer at Cowgirl of Santa Fe. And I do mean super casual. I can only describe this sprawling restaurant that originated with the intent of “promoting the culture of the American Cowgirl” as a
kid friendly dive bar. There is even a play area for the little ones in the back. And the BBQ? Fall off the bone good.
Finally, I can’t end a review of our Santa Fe vacation without mentioning our perennial “pilgrimage” to El Santuario de Chimayo. Thanks to Tricia’s parents, who first suggested it, every time we come here, there is one day when we head north the 26 miles to Espanola, then east on the “High Road to Taos” about ten miles to Chimayo. Once there, we follow the footsteps of hundreds of thousands of others to the side room of the small but affecting adobe church where a well is filled with dirt from the surrounding hillsides. Legend says the dirt of this area has healing qualities and we always bring some home with us. But truth be told, another reason why we are anxious to come to Chimayo is that we always have lunch at the Restaurante Ranch de Chimayo before heading back to Santa Fe. The food here is authentic New Mexico and very reasonably priced and they even offer a vegetarian chile. Needless to say, we can’t wait to come back next year!
Check out more pictures from this trip here.
