Tag: Syrah

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HOPE FAMILY SHOWCASES THE BEST OF PASO ROBLES

On a recent press trip to Paso Robles, sponsored by Hope Family Wines, our host Austin Hope set the tone for the visit when he said it was his goal to show us the diversity of the region, not just his wines. I welcomed this, not only because Hope’s wines have long been among my favorites but also because I had been to Paso twice before and was eager to see how the region has developed.

 

Paso Robles is the largest American Viticultural Area (AVA) in California. It is also the name of the main town of about 30,000, whose original name was El Paso del Robles (“Passage of the Oaks”). But, after my visits to the area, I think Paso could just be short for “passion.

Austin Hope oversees Hope Family Wines (www.hopefamilywines.com), a family-owned and -operated enterprise encompassing five brands: Liberty School, Treana, Candor, Austin Hope and Troublemaker wines. Austin’s father, Chuck Hope moved his family from the Central Valley to Paso in 1978 to plant wine grapes pioneering families of the region. After growing grapes and developing vineyards throughout the eighties and early nineties, the family became convinced Paso Robles was capable of producing world-class wines and began producing their own wines.

 

They joined a handful of other pioneering families who helped promote the region, not just as a source of fine quality grapes but also as a complete wine travel destination. Today, Austin and Hope Family Wines also epitomize Paso Robles’ reputation for being on the cutting edge, a reputation Austin has fostered by experimenting with Rhone-style blends and multiple vintage wines.

At a tour of the Huerhuero Vineyard, a longtime source for entry level Liberty School wines, on the Eastside of Paso Robles, and of the nearby Hope Family Wines winemaking facility, we learned from General Manager of Vineyard Operations Suhky Sran, Winemaker J.C. Diefenderfer, and Assistant Winemaker Samantha Taylor about the family’s role in developing vineyards throughout Paso Robles and how they work with over 50 family-owned vineyards to produce fruit for the Liberty School wines. The brand had bee created in the 1970’s by the Wagner family of Napa’s Caymus Vineyards and the Hopes collaborated with the Wagners since the late 1980’s to supply cabernet sauvignon grapes. He Hope’s then took over sole responsibility for the brand in 1996.

 

Today, there is a range of varietals that deliver consistent quality for the money and are regularly recognized as a “Good Values” and “Best Buys.” Look for Cabernet Sauvignon (2010, $14), Chardonnay wines (2011, $14), Pinot Noir ($20), and Liberty School Merlot ($16). The wines are made in a more restrained, food friendly style with forward fruit, good varietal character, and moderate alcohol.

 

The Hopes then established Treana Winery in 1996, to produce high-end Rhone-style blends from Paso Robles and Central Coast fruit. JC explained to us the name Treana symbolizes the trinity of natural elements – sun, soil and ocean – that make Paso Robles and the Central Coast exceptional for growing wine grapes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To give us a flavor for what this means, we toured the Mer Soleil Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands near Salinas (our only stop outside of Paso Robles). This Monterey County-based vineyard is the long-time major source for Treana White, one of the first white Rhone-style blends and still one of the most highly regarded. The current vintage (2011, $23) is a blend of equal parts viognier and marsanne. Floral and tropical aromatics precede ripe pear and honey flavors combined with a lush texture and balancing acidity.

 

The Treana Red (2010, $45), which Austin considers his flagship wine, is a blend of cabernet sauvignon and syrah. It combines the depth and structure of a Cab, with the fullness and class of syrah. It is a perfect example of Austin’s willingness to work outside-the-box. Not many wineries were combining Rhone and Bordeaux blends when he created this wine almost twenty years ago.

The Hopes also own a vineyard on the Westside of Paso Robles planted primarily to syrah and grenache, with some mourvedre. Austin crafts wines inspired by the Northern Rhône Valley from this estate grown fruit. Known as the Hope Family Vineyard, it is located 20 miles east of the Pacific Ocean in the Templeton Gap district of Paso Robles. The site’s rocky soils of clay and limestone make it ideal for the Rhône varietals to which it is planted.

 

At this site, we were given a fascinating overview of the sustainable farming practices – certified by Sustainability in Practice (SIP), www.sipcertified.com – employed in the vineyard. Beth Vukmanic Lopez, Sustainability in Practice Certification Manager explained how for over 15 years, SIP has helped growers, vineyards and consumers rethink their approach to sustainability. As Beth said, SIP Certified sustainable vineyards and wines is about looking at the whole farm and considering “people, planet and profit.” In this sense, SIP is complementary to organic practices, not necessarily a replacement. Of course, a winery needs to make a profit to stay in business but that is closely tied to the quality of the wines, which depends on the quality of the grapes, which is connected to healthy vineyards. But SIP practices also consider the well being of the vineyard and winery workers, an often over looked factor. An important element to the success of the program is the third party certification SIP provides using independent auditors.

 

At the winery and tasting room on site, we enjoyed a barrel tasting of 2012 vintage Austin Hope Syrah and Grenache. Austin told us he uses traditional Côte-Rotie as his benchmark in making his syrah. But, being in California, he added he likes his wines to taste like the old world wines “but with a little bit more.”

This approach showed through the current vintages we tasted. The Syrah (2010, $42) displayed a balance of savory and fruit elements. Aromatic, intense and full-bodied, it also was elegant with pure berry fruit, licorice and earthy complexity. The Grenache (2010, $42) revealed characteristics of dried red fruits, earth and spices with good concentration, firm acidity and soft tannins.

 

The Hopes haven’t stopped to rest on these successful brands. Another label, “Candor” was created in 2008. These multi-vintage wines, a Merlot and Zinfandel, are crafted from specially selected fruit from a variety of Central Coast vineyards. They exhibit excellent varietal flavor at a reasonable price. We tasted the Zinfandel Lot 4 ($20) and Merlot Lot 3 ($20), which I found notable for their true varietal flavor and fresh, bright fruit.

 

Finally, the newest label in the Hope Family stable, “Troublemaker,” places Austin Hope’s creativity and willingness to challenge convention on full display. Troublemaker Blend 6 ($20) is a multi-vintage montage of 50% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Zinfandel and 10% Petite Sirah. Its profile reflected its name with brash fruit and lively texture.

While it was great to learn about all the Hope wines, the trip was made really special by the inclusion of visits to some of Paso Robles most notable artisan producers and restaurants.

 

Villa Creek (www.villacreek.com) has long been a destination restaurant for Paso Robles.

Artisan (www.artisanpasorobles.com) grows some of its ingredients at a local organic farm and showcased a distinctive wine on tap program.

Thomas Hill Organics (www.thomashillorganics.com) is a casual market-bistro that serves spectacularly fresh food, not surprising since most of it comes from their own organic farm.

Il Cortile Ristorante (www.ilcortileristorante.com) features exceptional homemade pastas, fresh seafood, and top-quality meats.

 

All of the restaurants craft dishes as much as possible from seasonal, locally grown ingredients from small producers, much of it organically or sustainably farmed. At these restaurants, farm-to-table is not just a marketing slogan. They live it every day. I will say without hesitation these places are as good as the best restaurants in any city in the nation.

 

And as if that wasn’t enough, to give us a sampling of the top quality artisan products being produced in the area we also toured two special places.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A visit to the Kiler Ridge Olive Farm (http://kilerridge.com) with founders Audrey Burnam & Gregg Bone was eye opening. Although it is just minutes from downtown Paso Robles the hilly, picturesque location transports visitors to another location, specifically Italy. Kiler Ridge uses sustainable farming practices and currently maintains 2,500 olive trees – varieties originating from Italy and Sicily.

 

Gregg and Audrey were gracious hosts. Gregg provided us with an extensive overview of his production process and explained in amazing detail why most of the “extra virgin” olive oil we buy in the supermarket isn’t really, regardless of what’s on the label.

 

It was particularly enlightening to me to actually taste the difference. The Kiler Ridge oils were noticeably fresher and displayed distinct grassy and peppery flavors. Greg explained this is because his oils have much higher polyphenol content – he even said, “I’m a polyphenol producer, not an olive oil producer.” Polyphenols are strong antioxidants with many health benefits. Bottom line, though, the oils were delicious but admittedly might be an acquired taste for some consumers used to blander commercial oils.

 

And they presented us with the most eye opening taste sensation I have hade in years: vanilla ice cream topped with sea salt, my choice of Kiler Ridge olive oil and balsamic syrup. All I can say is “wow!” It was delicious with all the savory and sweet elements melding together beautifully.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also took a refreshing break from winetasting for a tour of the Firestone Walker Brewery (www.firestonebeer.com) with Brewmaster Matt Brynildson. Firestone Walker (named for owners Adam Firestone and David Walker) has been brewing since 1996 but moved from Santa Barbara to Paso Robles in 2001. Firestone Walker and Brewmaster Brynildson are one of the nation’s most awarded breweries and are particularly notable for their use of barrel fermentation for several of their ales.

 

I wholeheartedly recommend the next time you are considering a vacation to wine country, make Paso Robles your destination. The number of wineries has grown from about forty 25 years ago to over 200 (mostly small and family-owned) today. But that is only the beginning of this region’s story. Passionate, dedicated artisan producers with a commitment to sustainability are to be found everywhere in the region.

 

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FOOD & WINE MAGAZINE BRINGS THE WORLD OF WINE TO ASPEN

While the cooking demonstrations and wine seminars are the foundation of the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, another hallmark of the Classic is all the receptions, parties, and other special events. This year was no exception. I had so many invitations, I just couldn’t make them all … and believe me I tried.

 

But I still had many opportunities to discover new wines and meet new winemakers. For me, one of the best things about the Classic is the opportunity it presents to meet winemakers and winery owners and to taste wines from producers whom I seldom or never get a chance to try.

For instance, I had a chance to sit down with Michael Martini, the third generation winemaker for the Louis M. Martini Winery in the Napa Valley. Michael, who has been the winemaker for this family (a family that has an over 100 year old history of winemaking in California) since 1977, was anxious to tell me about (and have me taste) his wines. Mariola Varona Bayola, the Export Manager for Bodegas Martin Codax, also joined us. Martín Códax is a 27 year old Spanish winery that is best known for its Albariño. Confused that representatives of a California winery and a Spanish winery both were at this meeting? Don’t be, both are now owned by the Gallo family. And both were delightful lunch companions. And their wines – Martini Cabs and Codax Albariño – were equally enjoyable.

 

It was a treat to be able to attend a reserve tasting moderated by Master Sommelier Richard Betts on “The Extraordinary Wines of California’s Sine Qua Non.” Now, if you have never heard of Sine Qua Non, don’t worry. That just means you are not a wine geek. Sine Qua Non is a “cult wine” among the cult wines. You can only buy them if you first get on their mailing list and then wait only God knows how long to get in. Maybe you can find one on a restaurant wine list but it probably will cost hundreds of dollars. This is what is special about these reserve tasting’s. They offer rare opportunities to taste equally rare and extraordinary wines.

All of the wines we tasted reflected differing blends of various Rhone varietals – the reds presented different expressions of syrah and grenache, while the whites showed off combinations of roussanne, viognier, and chardonnay. My key take away from the tasting is that the wines definitely lived up to their hype. First and foremost, all six wines showed off beautiful fruit. The use of oak showed in balance with the depth of fruit and acidity.

 

It’s a ritual every year to wander the Grand Tasting Tent, where producers from all over the world display their wares, in the hopes of making new discoveries. As with previous years, I ended up on a sort of world tour. I don’t have room to list all the wines tasted but here are a few highlights.

Although Australia is best known for many great Shiraz, I’m glad I was persuaded to take the road less traveled and try some really outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. From Penley Estate, a highly regarded winery in the Coonawarra region of South Australia, I enjoyed the “Phoenix” and Reserve Cabs and chatting with Proprietor/Chief Winemaker Kym Tolley. From the Yarra Valley region of Victoria, I really was impressed with Pinot Noirs from Giant Steps and Innocent Bystander, partly because one usually doesn’t think of great Pinot Noir from Australia but also because Owner/Winemaker Phil Sexton was pouring and explaining the wines. Before leaving Australia, I found one more wine I also highly recommend: the Vasse Felix “Heytesbury” Cabernet Sauvignon from the Margaret river region of Southwestern Australia.

 

Representing Portugal, the Esporão Assobio, which is made predominantly from touriga nacional, tinta roriz and touriga franca grapes, is a distinguished single vineyard red worthy of any serious wine drinker. If you think the only Portugal wine worth drinking is Port (and Port is great stuff), think again. There is a lot of great Portuguese dry table wine and Assobio is one of the best.

 

Wines from Spain for many years has hosted a whole tent as a separate location within the Grand Tasting park and it is always a great place to hunt for new wines. This year I was especially impressed with the wines at the “Drink Ribera” (that’s Ribera del Duero, one of Spain’s most important regions). My favorites were the Bodegas Montecastro, from high altitude vineyards, and Alejandro Fernandez Tinto Pesquera, from a pioneer of modern Spanish wine. Both are excellent representations of tempranillo, Spain’s most distinguished grape.

 

I finished my tour in the tent tasting several California wines, with the highlights being the following, all really outstanding, wines:

 

  • 2011 Franciscan Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay
  • 2009 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
  • 2009 Simi Cabernet Sauvignon Landslide Vineyard
  • 2009 Franciscan Magnificat (Bordeaux-style blend)
  • 2009 Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
  • 2010 Ravenswood Zinfandel Belloni Vineyard

As for the receptions, the annual Wines from Spain/Jose Andres Spanish Barbecue was another stunner. Hosted at an amazing trophy home/mansion in the mountains above the Buttermilk ski area, there were again delectable grilled meats and shrimp, tasty charcuterie, and a wonderful array of cheeses. Of course, there also were some excellent wines. I was impressed enough with three wines – Bodegas Roda Rioja  “Roda 1,” Bodegas Muga Rioja “Torre Muga,” and Bodegas Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero “C21 Malabrigo” – to actually write them down amid all the happy chaos.

But I was especially impressed this year with the reception for the “Chef’s Club by Food & Wine” restaurant. This is a special restaurant within the St. Regis hotel that features a rotating lineup of Food & Wine Best New Chefs doing the cooking. What was really cool was the collection of fine Colorado artisan producers presenting their creations in the courtyard. Kudos to Continental Sausage (Denver), Licious Organics (Boulder), Linger restaurant (Denver), Quixotic Tilapia Farm (Canon City), Magpies (Eagle), Aero Farm (Lakewood), Outrageous Gluten-Free Baking (Denver), Jumpin’ Good Goat Dairy (Buena Vista), Etalia Gluten-Free Breads (Boulder), Raquelitas Tortillas (Denver), and

Esoteric Foods “Zuke” Pickled Products (Boulder).

 

Needless to say, it was another year of discovery at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. I already can’t wait for next year.

 

 

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A QUICK TRIP TO SPAIN

When I first got interested in wine (way too long ago to admit) Spanish wine basically was a go-to choice for good values for every day drinking. Even the storied Rioja seemed an afterthought in discussions of the world’s finest wines. That seemed largely true even twenty years ago, when I first started writing about wine.

 

Well, that’s so Twentieth Century. Today, Spanish wines must be included in any serious discussion of the world’s finest wines but what’s really cool is there still are plenty of great everyday values.

 

In the fine wine category, I include two recently tasted wines from two highly respected producers. Bodegas RODA was founded in the late 1980s by Maria Rottlant and Carmen Dauvella. This is a thoroughly modern winery making thoroughly modern wines but wines that pay tribute to the centuries old traditions of the Rioja. Each vintage, the seventeen best vineyards (all vines are 30-100 years old) are selected to ferment separately and then three blends are fashioned to express different styles of tempranillo, Spain’s signature red grape.

 

The 2006 RODA Reserva ($45) is 100 percent tempranillo aged in French oak of which half is new. It shows textbook red berry fruit character, though maybe a bit sweet. That is offset with toasty, earthy, smoky notes and fresh acidity. It finishes with elegant, supple tannins.

 


In nearby Toro, we find more evidence of the modern winemaking renaissance in Spain and Bodegas Farina is one of the leaders, which is interesting in that it also is one of the oldest family wineries in the region, founded in 1942. It wasn’t long ago Toro was virtually unknown outside of Spain.Not so today and wines like the 2006 Gran Dama de Toro ($45) are the reasons why. The wine is full-bodied and intense. It opens with aromas of oak, black fruits, bacon, and toast. It is packed with dense blackberry, cherry, and plum fruit accented with an herbal touch. Highly structured with strong tannins, it finishes surprisingly harmonious.As I mentioned, there are still countless good value, everyday wines from Spain. I found several in my tasting. 

Another region that has witnessed revitalization is the home of the “Man of La Mancha.” While this area is believed to be the largest single winegrowing region in the world, with most of the vineyard land given over to growing grapes for brandy or bulk wine, a number of entrepreneurs have embarked on a seemingly Quixotic quest to grow fine premium table wines. One such winery is Finca Constancia, near Toledo in the La Mancha region of Central Spain southwest of Madrid. It is owned by González Byass, a leading producer (founded in 1835 and still family owned and managed) of Spanish wines, Sherries and liqueurs, with the most notable brand being Tio Pepe. Finca Constancia was created as a single estate property to produce single parcel wines similar to the principles of Bordeaux.

 

The vineyard is planted to numerous international varietals (cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cabernet franc, petit verdot, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay) but also many indigenous varietals (tempranillo, graciano, verdejo and garnacha. With the designation “Vino de la Tierra de Castilla,” the wines below are built upon both new plantings and existing vineyards and take advantage of the more flexible production techniques under the Denomination of Origin laws.

 

  • Finca Constancia Red Blend ($15). A blend of syrah, cabernet franc and garnacha; herbal notes compliment cherry fruit and spice; soft feel but lifted with crisp acidity.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 23 ($20). 100 percent tempranillo, single vineyard; deep, dark fruit, light spice; though a little thin in the middle, it’s concentrated, fresh dark berries and woodsy spices please.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 52 ($20). A 100 percent verdejo, single vineyard white wine ringer; quite aromatic, light and fresh, with brisk limejuice accented with green herb notes and a lively spritz.
  •  2010 Altos de la Finca ($35). From the highest vineyards on the estate, this creative blend of petite verdot and syrah for the extra money adds admirable intensity with deep black fruits, dusty oaky notes followed by a nicely dry finish.
I was quite pleased to find several values from Rioja, the most famous Spanish wine growing region in the southern part of the Basque country. First up are two from Bodegas Bilbainas, which was founded in 1859 and today is the largest estate in the Rioja Alta and fourth largest in all of Rioja.

 

The 2009 Vina Pomal ($12) takes its name from a 108-year-old vineyard, though the grapes are from 10- to 20-year-old vines. It is a fairly traditional Rioja of 100 percent Tempranillo (interestingly aged in 90% American oak). It is designated a Crianza, meaning it has been aged a minimum of one year, with six months in barrel. I liked the earthy red fruits of this straightforward but tasty wine, with its lively palate and lively mouthfeel.

 

Another vineyard lends its name to the 2011 Vina Zaco ($15). Also 100 percent Tempranillo from 10- to 20-year-old vines, it is best understood as a new style Rioja. And it’s an excellent style. Aged equally in American and French oak, it opens with bright cherry and raspberry. The palate has good weight and depth. It is quite full and flavorful, with a juicy finish and aftertaste.

The ancestors of the Bodegas Miguel Ángel Muro have been making wine since 1892 and growing wine grapes even longer. Miguel’s 2008 “Muro Bujanda” Rioja Crianza ($14) is just a fantastic value. Bright cherry and red currant aromas join roasted and lightly creamy notes. Similar flavor profile marks the intense fruit and touches of spice.

 

Founded over a century ago in the Rioja Alavesa by the grandfather of the current owner, Ruiz de Vinaspro makes wines from vines that range from 40-100 years of age. The 2007 Ruiz de Vinaspro Rioja ($15) is 100 percent tempranillo. It sports toasty blueberry and blackberry fruit. The palate is very dry mixing fresh tannins and woodsy herbs with lively wild berry fruit. A little closed at first, it opens up nicely with time.

 

Finally, just in time for summer, the 2010 Bodegas Sumarroca “Temps Flors” ($14) if a delightful, refreshing wine. Sumarroca is located in the Penedes region of Catalonia near Barcelona. The name translates to “time of the flowers” and the unique blend of xarel-lo Muscat and gewürztraminer mirrors that expression in the wine’s aroma (though it’s actually named after a local flower festival). This fruity, off-dry wine sports appealing fruity notes of lychee and tropical fruits balanced with good fruit intensity, perfect for quaffin

Posted on

A QUICK TRIP TO SPAIN

When I first got interested in wine (way too long ago to admit) Spanish wine basically was a go-to choice for good values for every day drinking. Even the storied Rioja seemed an afterthought in discussions of the world’s finest wines. That seemed largely true even twenty years ago, when I first started writing about wine.

 

Well, that’s so Twentieth Century. Today, Spanish wines must be included in any serious discussion of the world’s finest wines but what’s really cool is there still are plenty of great everyday values.

 

In the fine wine category, I include two recently tasted wines from two highly respected producers. Bodegas RODA was founded in the late 1980s by Maria Rottlant and Carmen Dauvella. This is a thoroughly modern winery making thoroughly modern wines but wines that pay tribute to the centuries old traditions of the Rioja. Each vintage, the seventeen best vineyards (all vines are 30-100 years old) are selected to ferment separately and then three blends are fashioned to express different styles of tempranillo, Spain’s signature red grape.

 

The 2006 RODA Reserva ($45) is 100 percent tempranillo aged in French oak of which half is new. It shows textbook red berry fruit character, though maybe a bit sweet. That is offset with toasty, earthy, smoky notes and fresh acidity. It finishes with elegant, supple tannins.

 


In nearby Toro, we find more evidence of the modern winemaking renaissance in Spain and Bodegas Farina is one of the leaders, which is interesting in that it also is one of the oldest family wineries in the region, founded in 1942. It wasn’t long ago Toro was virtually unknown outside of Spain.Not so today and wines like the 2006 Gran Dama de Toro ($45) are the reasons why. The wine is full-bodied and intense. It opens with aromas of oak, black fruits, bacon, and toast. It is packed with dense blackberry, cherry, and plum fruit accented with an herbal touch. Highly structured with strong tannins, it finishes surprisingly harmonious.As I mentioned, there are still countless good value, everyday wines from Spain. I found several in my tasting. 

Another region that has witnessed revitalization is the home of the “Man of La Mancha.” While this area is believed to be the largest single winegrowing region in the world, with most of the vineyard land given over to growing grapes for brandy or bulk wine, a number of entrepreneurs have embarked on a seemingly Quixotic quest to grow fine premium table wines. One such winery is Finca Constancia, near Toledo in the La Mancha region of Central Spain southwest of Madrid. It is owned by González Byass, a leading producer (founded in 1835 and still family owned and managed) of Spanish wines, Sherries and liqueurs, with the most notable brand being Tio Pepe. Finca Constancia was created as a single estate property to produce single parcel wines similar to the principles of Bordeaux.

 

The vineyard is planted to numerous international varietals (cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cabernet franc, petit verdot, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay) but also many indigenous varietals (tempranillo, graciano, verdejo and garnacha. With the designation “Vino de la Tierra de Castilla,” the wines below are built upon both new plantings and existing vineyards and take advantage of the more flexible production techniques under the Denomination of Origin laws.

 

  • Finca Constancia Red Blend ($15). A blend of syrah, cabernet franc and garnacha; herbal notes compliment cherry fruit and spice; soft feel but lifted with crisp acidity.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 23 ($20). 100 percent tempranillo, single vineyard; deep, dark fruit, light spice; though a little thin in the middle, it’s concentrated, fresh dark berries and woodsy spices please.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 52 ($20). A 100 percent verdejo, single vineyard white wine ringer; quite aromatic, light and fresh, with brisk limejuice accented with green herb notes and a lively spritz.
  •  2010 Altos de la Finca ($35). From the highest vineyards on the estate, this creative blend of petite verdot and syrah for the extra money adds admirable intensity with deep black fruits, dusty oaky notes followed by a nicely dry finish.
I was quite pleased to find several values from Rioja, the most famous Spanish wine growing region in the southern part of the Basque country. First up are two from Bodegas Bilbainas, which was founded in 1859 and today is the largest estate in the Rioja Alta and fourth largest in all of Rioja.

 

The 2009 Vina Pomal ($12) takes its name from a 108-year-old vineyard, though the grapes are from 10- to 20-year-old vines. It is a fairly traditional Rioja of 100 percent Tempranillo (interestingly aged in 90% American oak). It is designated a Crianza, meaning it has been aged a minimum of one year, with six months in barrel. I liked the earthy red fruits of this straightforward but tasty wine, with its lively palate and lively mouthfeel.

 

Another vineyard lends its name to the 2011 Vina Zaco ($15). Also 100 percent Tempranillo from 10- to 20-year-old vines, it is best understood as a new style Rioja. And it’s an excellent style. Aged equally in American and French oak, it opens with bright cherry and raspberry. The palate has good weight and depth. It is quite full and flavorful, with a juicy finish and aftertaste.

The ancestors of the Bodegas Miguel Ángel Muro have been making wine since 1892 and growing wine grapes even longer. Miguel’s 2008 “Muro Bujanda” Rioja Crianza ($14) is just a fantastic value. Bright cherry and red currant aromas join roasted and lightly creamy notes. Similar flavor profile marks the intense fruit and touches of spice.

 

Founded over a century ago in the Rioja Alavesa by the grandfather of the current owner, Ruiz de Vinaspro makes wines from vines that range from 40-100 years of age. The 2007 Ruiz de Vinaspro Rioja ($15) is 100 percent tempranillo. It sports toasty blueberry and blackberry fruit. The palate is very dry mixing fresh tannins and woodsy herbs with lively wild berry fruit. A little closed at first, it opens up nicely with time.

 

Finally, just in time for summer, the 2010 Bodegas Sumarroca “Temps Flors” ($14) if a delightful, refreshing wine. Sumarroca is located in the Penedes region of Catalonia near Barcelona. The name translates to “time of the flowers” and the unique blend of xarel-lo Muscat and gewürztraminer mirrors that expression in the wine’s aroma (though it’s actually named after a local flower festival). This fruity, off-dry wine sports appealing fruity notes of lychee and tropical fruits balanced with good fruit intensity, perfect for quaffin

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PEOPLE’S PALATE WINERY PROFILE: BONNY DOON VINEYARD

RANDALL GRAHM’S AND BONNY DOON’S QUEST FOR TERROIRISTIC SELF EXPRESSION BEARS FRUIT

 

Over the last few decades, the concept of terroir and its influence on the grapes grown in a given location and ultimately the wine from those grapes has been the subject of an enormous amount of discussion and as much debate. When I first saw mentions of the subject, it was mostly presented in terms of the geography and geology of the soil in which the grapevines are grown. Soon after, conversations incorporated the environmental conditions and climate. Then it was expanded to include factors influenced by humans – particularly the grape growing and winemaking.

 

Nowadays most commentators agree a “terroir driven wine” ultimately reflects the sum of the natural conditions of its place of origin and the human decisions in the vineyard and the cellar that attempt to express the unique characteristics of that location. Actually, beyond that it seems to me the extent to which a wine accomplishes that ideal is a result of a still poorly understood alchemy in which the wine is greater than the sum of its influences.

 

Enter Randall Grahm, a singular winemaking personality known as much for his gift at turning a phrase and clever prose incorporating literary and philosophical references. Mr. Grahm founded Bonny Doon winery thirty years ago and was one of the original “Rhone Rangers” (proponents of California wines made with grapes typical of France’s Rhone Valley). He has long been a proponent of “terroir driven” wines but to many seemed to have lost his way for a period when he focused more on growing his wine business (ultimately to nearly 500,000 cases a year).

 

Now, he has recommitted himself and his operation to making (actually I think he would prefer I say “shepherding” or “facilitating” or maybe “translating”) wines that reflect the vineyard source. A key decision in this regard he says is his decision to only use biodynamically farmed grapes and rely on indigenous yeasts for fermentation. There still are myriad practices employed in the cellar to achieve the style of wine Mr. Grahm prefers (which I would describe as more European – higher acidity, dryer fruit flavors, more earthy and herbal components) but he seems genuinely dedicated to decisions he thinks will produce wines optimally characteristic of their origin.

 

And the quality of the wines, at least based on my recent tasting, more than justify his approach. He still is focusing on Rhone varietals and now also “lesser-known varietals” like the Albarino reviewed below.

 

 

For the whites, the 2011 Albarino ($18) from the Central Coast vineyards Casa Grande near Soledad and Jesperson Ranch in San Louis Obispo is fun to drink. True to its varietal characteristics (the grape is mostly known for its wines from Spain and Portugal), this wine is fairly aromatic and quite lively in the mouth. I enjoyed its peach, melon and lime fruit, and a creamy note that adds weight.

 

The 2010 Le Cigare Blanc Beeswax Vineyard Arroyo Seco ($26) also is quite fragrant with floral, lemon, pear, and spice notes. This Rhône-style blend of roussanne and grenache blanc comes from a shielded from the cool Pacific winds by the Santa Lucia Mountains vineyard is medium-bodied, with a lush texture (possibly from the full malolactic fermentation) and intriguing mineral characteristics.

 

 

On to the reds, the 2010 Contra ($16) is described as an “Old Vine Field Blend” implying the vineyard sources are planted with multiple grapes and all the fruit is harvested and vinified together. About 2/3 carignane (old, nongrafted, dry-farmed, head-trained vines from Contra Costa County’s Gonsalves Vineyard) and 1/3 syrah (from Santa Maria Valley’s Bien Nacido Vineyard) with splashes of grenache, roussanne, grenache blanc, and mourvèdre, this is similar to a wine we might find from the south of France. Regardless, it is a fine value with mushroom aromas and nice ripe red and black fruits, a touch of licorice and spice followed by a medium body, supple texture and fresh acidity.

 

The 2009 Ca’ del Solo Nebbiolo Monterey County ($45) from the biodynamic Ca’ del Solo Estate Vineyard is rather pricey but it does deliver the goods. On the nose, there are pure red cherry, lightly floral and smoke notes, and maybe even a creamy quality. In the mouth, an underlying element of earth with a touch of fennel is the foundation for a juicy, lighter-bodied, brightly fruited wine.

 

The Chateauneuf-du-Pape style 2008 Le Cigare Volant ($38) has become somewhat iconic since its inception 25 years ago. It was one of the first such wines from one of the first Rhone Rangers. This vintage is 45 percent grenache (mostly from Ca’ del Solo estate) and 30 percent syrah (mostly from Bien Nacido vineyard), with smaller proportions of mourvedre, cinsault, and carignane. It shows tangy plum and hints of cherries and anise. I sense lightly dusty, woodsy notes in the nose. There is similar fruit in the broad mouth, while it closes with powdery, gravelly tannins.

The 2008 Le Cigare Volant Reserve en Bonbonne ($65) is a really interesting wine. It is a selection of the Cigare Volant separated to finish aging in 5-gallon glass bottles (called carboys or “bonbonnes”) rather than barrels or foudres. Possibly because of the nature of this container, particularly its reductive (oxygen free) nature, it does seem to have a bit more structure and taste a little fresher. Still, the bouquet presents evolved notes of dried berries and herbs with a pleasant suggestion of gravel. It is nicely concentrated and dry and finishes with noticeable tannic grip.

 

I would say these two wines are of roughly equal quality, although I preferred the Bonbonne. They’re just made in different styles. Maybe they should be thought of as different expressions of the vineyard sources as interpreted by the winemaker.

 

There also were three Syrahs in my tasting. One, the 2009 Le Pousseur Syrah ($25) was the only wine that didn’t impress me much. There was nothing wrong with its earthy, savory qualities and black cherry fruit. It just seemed rather one-dimensional.

 

In contrast, the 2008 Syrah Alamo Creek Vineyard ($35) had a lot going on. It opened with enticing red fruit. Then it followed with smoky dried herbs and a spice note that for some reason made me wonder if they came from the grape, the barrels in which the wine was aged, or the vineyard (which Grahm says is planted in an old riverbed in San Louis Obispo County). It had a similar flavor profile, with deep fruit, a touch of anise and savory, peppery, meaty flavors. This is all packaged in a solid structure, with distinct dryness, finishing with lively tannins.

 

Finally, the 2008 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard ($42) was the star of my tasting. From the cool climate, older vines and calcareous soils of Bien Nacido’s X-block, this is a fantastic wine. It was generous with its tart cherry and juicy berry fruit. Peppery, earthy and meaty elements emerged with time in the glass, all nicely balanced with fresh acidity. As with the best Syrahs, this wine deftly balanced power and elegance.

 

Based on the wines in my tasting, this partnership between the winemakers, wine growers, grapevines, and vineyards is bearing fine fruit and I look forward to following its further development.

 

 

NOTE: All photos obtained from Bonny Doon website.

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ITALY’S TUSCANY DEFINES SANGIOVESE (AND A FEW OTHER VARIETIES, TOO!)

Tuscany is the most recognizable Italian state to American tourists and wine consumers. The picturesque, hilly countryside that attracts throngs of tourists also is a vinous wonderland. Dozens of grape varieties are grown here but it is sangiovese that dominates. The most widely planted grape in Italy, most agree it reaches its pinnacle in Tuscany.

Sangiovese is generally agreed to be native to the Tuscan region. It is difficult to describe its typical characteristics with complete confidence because different clones are grown under different environments subject to different viticultural and winemaking techniques. Still, in general expect signature black cherry fruit (though various dark berries can show up) and vibrant acidity, with varying elements of earth, forest, herbs, smoke, and spice. With a few notable exceptions, most are light- to medium-bodied and very dry, with a lean, structured finishing and fairly strong tannins

Sangiovese’s best-known incarnation is as the most important component of Chianti. Chianti is a large region covering most of northern Tuscany. The traditional recipe proscribed blending with various grapes, including white ones. Nowadays the rules have been relaxed and the best wines will be at least ¾ sangiovese and usually more. Still, these wines – as is the case with most European wines – are subject to stricter rules than most American wines.

Basic Chianti today is much better than the wicker basket stuff that made the wine famous in the 1970 and later infamous. Recent improvements in viticulture and winemaking have improved quality considerably. The 2010 Coltibuono Chianti Cetamura and 2010 Castello di Gabbiano are good examples that provide nice varietal character for a mere $10.

Of the seven Chianti subzones, Chianti Rufina is consistently my favorite and always a good value. This is demonstrated by the 2009 Selvapiana, ($17), a perfumed wine, with tight yet silky tannins by one of the area’s best producers.

But for a great leap in quality, consumers should turn their attention to Chianti Classico, the specified zone just to the south of Florence stretching to Siena. Wines from this area consistently produce the best Chiantis. Better vineyards, more attention in the vineyard and cellar yield the essence of Chianti. My favorites from recent tastings listed in order:

2006 Castello di Bossi ($20) – an amazing wine for the money; strongly perfumed, tons of beautiful fruit, velvety texture concentrated and quite rich; shows what can be done with 100% Sangiovese.

2008 Badia a Coltibuono Estate ($20) – made with organically grown grapes and vinified using natural yeast; attractive licorice and tobacco notes, pure fruit, linear but polished texture.

2007 Castello di Bossi ($20) – comes up just slightly short of the 2006 but is still a very good wine; overall similar in style, just a bit shy on fruit but more dried herb and spices.

2008 Castello di Volpaia ($24) – there’s an airiness and elegance about this wine’s lively character; though floral and herbal qualities ground the wine.

2008 Castello di Gabbiano Riserva ($23) – all Riserva must be aged two years plus three months in bottle; but this one is still quite assertive, with ripe fruit and a sleek palate, while displaying mineral and earth notes and dry tannins on the finish.

2009 Coltibuono “RS” ($15) – “RS” is for Roberto Stucchi, the proprietor and winemaker at Badia a Coltibuono. This Chianti Classico struck me as a more “modern” style than the others here, meaning softer texture and tannin, with almost sweet fruit and gentler acidity.

But for many connoisseurs it is the area around Montalcino just south of Siena that is the epicenter for production of greatsangiovese wines. Here, Brunello di Montalcino, unlike in Chianti, is made of 100 percent sangiovese (the local clone is brunello) and by law aged two years in oak and an additional three years in bottle. The wines are big, powerful and highly structured, requiring many years to reach their peak. They also are disproportionately priced. Still, the one in my tasting, the 2006 Altesino ($75), did shine. Its complex aromas and flavors – flowers, woods, mint, spice, minerals, and deep fruit – are presented in a graceful, silky, yet firm, fresh frame and noticeable but integrated tannins.

Rosso di Montalcino, typically made of sangiovese from younger vines, tends to be lighter and earlier maturing than Brunello. Maybe this is why it’s often described as a “baby Brunello.” Though not labeled as such, the 2009 San Polo “Rubio” ($16) is basically a Rosso di Montalcino. It is fresh, ripe, and lively with layers intensity fruit. And a great value

In neighboring Montepulciano, wine from sangiovese, particularly a local variant called “prugnolo gentile” traditionally was so prized it was the wine of royalty. Hence, the name “Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.” From one of the best producers in the area, the 2007 Poliziano ($28) is slightly austere with noticeable tannin but offers rich, ripe fruit.

As in Montalcino, Rosso Di Montepulciano is a good affordable alternative to Vino Nobile. And again the 2009 Poliziano ($15) delivers with rich and spicy, this red exudes juicy black cherry, black currant and pepper flavors. It’s juicy and firmly structured, with a lingering tobacco and black tea finish.

As fantastic as these traditional wines are, it is the Maremma that has created most of the modern buzz about Tuscany. The area covers the south and west of Tuscany stretching from Siena to the Mediterranean coast. In the far south of Maremma in the warm environs near Scansano, Morellino di Scansano is generating much attention. With fine values such as the 2009 Le Pupille ($20) it’s not hard to see why.

The wine is made from at least 85% morellino (the local clone of sangiovese). It starts out a little lean but fills out nicely over the palate ending with a soft finish that seems typical of the region.

Finally, no column about Tuscany would be complete without including addressing the “Super Tuscan” phenomena. As the story goes, a handful of Chianti producers in the 1970’s, led by Piero Antinori, concerned with the declining quality of Chianti, decided to make the best wine they could, even if that meant breaking the region’s rules. The “traditional” recipe for Chianti was established in the 1870’s and codified in the 1960’s. It called for a majority sangiovese blended with canaiolo and significant doses of white grapes (up to 30 percent!).

But this plus a few other unfortunate developments, such as overproduction, resulted in increasingly disappointing (mainly tart, diluted) wines. So, Antinori decided to go his own way and in 1971 released a wine he called “Tignanello.” It was 80% sangiovese and 20% cabernet sauvignon and aged in small oak barrels. The consequence was the wine had to be labeled Vino da Tavola (VdT). This is the lowest Italian wine classification. Such wines, which can come from anywhere in Italy and use any combination of grapes, typically were used for common or bulk wines.

Regardless, Tignanello quickly became one of Italy’s most celebrated, and expensive, wines. Needless to say, many others took notice and began making their own versions. The Super Tuscan moniker soon took hold as a descriptor. Nowadays, such wines are labled Indicazione Geografica Tipica (or Indication of Geographic Tipicity). As with VdT, IGT wines are subject to fewer controls over the grapes used and how the wine is produced but they must be from the specific region designated.

Now it seems every Chianti producer also makes a Super Tuscan. The wines can be 100% sangiovese or some blend of sangiovese with grapes like cabernet sauvignon, merlot or syrah. A really good one I recently tried comes from the Chianti estate Castello di Gabbiano. The 2008 “Alleanza” ($35) is comprised of 83% merlot, 12% sangiovese and 5% cabernet sauvignon. Noticeable new oak adds spice and vanilla to its mineral elements. Full fruit stands up nicely to strong tannins.

But it is really the western Tuscany region known as Maremma where the phenomenon has really taken off. And the discussion here must start with Tenuta San Guido. It was in Bolgheri, a mostly undeveloped region just south of Livorno on Tuscany’s hilly Mediterranean coast, where Piero Antinori’s uncle, Mario Incisa della Rocchetta actually made Italy’s first Super Tuscan in the 1940s. This 100% cabernet sauvignon wasn’t released commercially until 1968 but “Sassicaia” quickly reached the heights of Italian wine and now is legendary. It also is what inspired nephews Piero Antinori to make Tignanello and Lodovico Antinori to make “Ornellaia,” another great Bolgheri blend (cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc).

While wines like Sassicaia are now prohibitively expensive but there are accessible introductions to the region and the style. A good place to start is Tenuta San Guido’s 2009 Le Difese ($30). This is a 70-30 cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese blend. It delivers ripe aromas with oak and tobacco, lots of fruit, spice, and hints of licorice and coffee.

I also found two outstanding values well worth your attention. The 2010 Tua Rita “Rosso dei Notri” ($20) – 50% sangiovese and50% “international varieties” – begins with flowers and spices and some tobacco. In the mouth, its delicious fruit comes richly concentrated. This estate, whose vineyards are located near the coast south of Bolgheri has produced a youthful, yet gracious expression of Maremma sangiovese.

The 2008 Aia Vecchia “Lagone” ($17), from an estate situated in the heart of the Bolgheri countryside, is a blend of 60% Merlot, with the remainder split between Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. It offers intense aromas of spice, chocolate, and tobacco. The palate delivers layers of fruit in a velvety texture. It is a fantastic value.

Interestingly, in recent years, the rules for Chianti have been relaxed to the point where many Super Tuscans could qualify as Chianti and many Chianti’s could qualify as a Super Tuscan. But, even though the Super Tuscans tend to be made in a so-called “international” style (more concentrated, powerful and oaky), the best still are unique expressions of Tuscany – more fruit and intensity but still woodsy, smoky notes and firm acidity giving the wines a lively angular presentation.

The emergence of the Super Tuscans forty years ago challenged tradition and led to fundamental changes in Tuscan winemaking culture. Here’s to building on the past, while embracing the future.

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DISCOVER THE WIDE WORLD OF SYRAH (AND SHIRAZ)

rich mauro the people's palate

rich mauro the people's palate

Featured Image courtesy of Niner Wine Estates

Syrah is one of the world’s great red wine grapes but for some reason it has languished in the shadow of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and more recently Pinot Noir. I hope that changes soon; the grape deserves the attention.

At its best, wines made from syrah provide great concentration, complexity and elegance, with an array of aromas and flavors, including berries, cherries, plum, currants, black or white pepper, anise, meat, leather, herbs, chocolate and coffee, and an ability to develop for 10, even 20 years. Even a lower priced syrah will deliver forward fruit and a smooth texture that is just right for everyday drinking.

Syrah also is a good food wine. It matches well with any dish that calls for a full flavored red wine, especially if it’s grilled, roasted, smoked or barbecued. It also stands up well to spicy foods.

Syrah developed its noble reputation as the primary red grape of France‘s northern Rhone Valley, especially the great Hermitage but also Côte-Rôtie, Cornas, Gigondas, St. Joseph, and Crozes-Hermitage. Syrah also can be an important component of the wines of the southern Rhone, including Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Cotes-du-Rhone, as well as many other wines of southern France.

In Hermitage especially the special nature of syrah originates with geography and climate. Steep, terraced vineyards stretch up and down granite hillsides rising above the Rhone River. Over millennia the river has carried alluvial deposits from the Alps laced with calcareous (limestone) and dotted with flint and stones. Cooler Continental influences from the north merge with warmer Mediterranean influences up from the south. The resulting strong winds – known as Mistral – are an ever-present challenge to the vines.

Hermitage, which actually is just a few hilltops, is a tiny appellation – just 320 acres, not much more than many Bordeaux estates. This famous hill got its name from a legend about a knight returning from the Crusades who decided to live out his life in solitude in the chapel on the top of the hill. After his passing, the chapel continued as a home for hermits.

Many believe syrah achieves its noblest expression here, where all the red wines are 100% syrah. M. Chapoutier’s is one of the top producers, along with great names like Chave, Jaboulet and Delas. The Chapoutier family’s history in the Rhône stretches back two centuries. Today they make some of the region’s most prestigious wines and are one of the world’s most highly regarded producers. The 2007 “Monier de la Sizeranne” ($125) is in many ways typical of great Hermitage: deep color, intense aromatics (red and black fruits – raspberry, blackcurrant, blackberry – hints of violets, black pepper and licorice). There also are suggestions of the signature meaty character that should become more pronounced with age. But it is so balanced it actually could be described as elegant. Strong but soft tannins and a lingering finish suggest a long life.

Although France is the benchmark for syrah, Australia deserves a lot of the credit for increasing the grape’s popularity. Australia has over the last 150 years or so developed a special relationship with syrah. Australian Shiraz has become one of the largest selling wines in the U.S. in recent years, popularizing the use of that name on the label. The Aussies produce a lot of good, inexpensive wine but also some of the world’s best wines from the grape.

And not that it necessarily needs it but what better validation of Australia’s success with the grape than for Michel Chapoutier to commit his family to a partnership with the wine importer Anthony Terlato to produce wine here. Their 2007 Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier “lieu dit Malakoff” ($30) single vineyard wine shows its mountain-grown origins in the Pyrenees of Central Victoria. Aromas of black fruits, with touches of chocolate and pepper preview a juicy intensity and solid but silky structure.

The Barossa Valley, just north of Adelaide in South Australia has emerged as arguably the country’s premier Shiraz producer. If you like big, unabashed wines, the 2010 Two Hands “Gnarly Dudes” ($40) is for you. Within little more than a decade, Two Hands has become one of Australia’s most highly praised producers. While they source grapes from various vineyards throughout South Australia, the grapes for Gnarly Dudes come from a number of Barossa parcels, notable for their gnarly old vines. Cocoa, anise and a floral note accent this wine’s dark berries, all delivered with vibrant acidity, with a finish balanced by firm but fine tannins.

I also have identified two good Aussie choices that will take half the bite out of your pocketbook.

The 2010 The Lucky Country McLaren Vale ($19) is from the coastal area south of Adelaide that was first planted in 1838 and still boasts many old vines. The wine is typical Mc Laren Vale with vibrant dark fruits, in this case especially blackberry, hints of mocha, herbal, soil characteristics, and a touch of meat and spice.

Or try another Barossa Shiraz, like the 2009 Peter Lehman ($17). This well regarded winery has been producing for 31 years using mostly fruit purchased from dozens of growers with long-term relationships. The result here is an immediately approachable wine of plum, meat and chocolate aromas followed by a juicy, fresh palate.

Australia’s southern hemisphere neighbor South Africa has emerged in recent years as a fine wine producer well worth attention. And Shiraz definitely is one of the country’s top red wines. The 2006 Rust en Vrede Stellenbosch ($28) would be a great place to start sampling what the country has to offer. The Rust en Vrede estate dates to 1694! And Stellenbosch is the country’s premier winegrowing region. This wine is quite intense, loaded with black fruits, and accented with notes of chocolate, cinnamon, meat and smoke. Round tannins increase its appeal.

Which brings us to California. It seems over the last twenty years or so, Syrah has alternated between being “The Next Big Thing” to being an “also ran.” I say it deserves to be the next big thing. I certainly have had good to excellent Syrah from just about every California growing region.

Terlato shows up again with an impressive Dry Creek Valley Syrah, the 2007 Terlato Block 9 ($48). Block 9 is a section of the Terlato Dry Creek Valley estate vineyard near the confluence of the Dry Creek and Russian Rivers where gravelly soils are particularly hospitable to syrah. They also seem to make for a particularly spicy, full-bodied wine with deep black fruits that linger in the finish.

One development of particular interest that emerged from my tastings is that the grape is doing particularly well in California’s Central Coast.

Paso Robles in particular has emerged as a prime source of syrah and other Rhone varietals. While many of the region’s best wines are blends, there are many fine varietal Syrah wines. For a good introduction, try the 2009 J. Lohr South Ridge Estate ($15). The South Ridge Estate, which sits on a south-facing hillside, hosts sandy and gravelly soils that combine to form conditions conducive to intense fruit. Spiced with touches of petite sirah and zinfandel, this wine shows nice blueberry and chocolate, with good acidity.

Another fine example of Paso Robles Syrah is the 2007 Niner Bootjack Ranch ($20). Niner Wine Estates began in 1999 when entrepreneur Dick Niner recognized Paso’s potential and purchased what is now called Bootjack Ranch. This wine shows black and red fruits, minerals and a smoky character. There are both floral and meaty notes, with good acidity and a finish lifted by noticeable tannins.

Even more impressive is what Zaca Mesa is doing with syrah (not to mention several other Rhône varietals) in Santa Barbara. Located in the heart of what most people know as prime pinot noir country, Zaca Mesa’s wines have introduced whole new possibilities for the region. Located in the Santa Ynez Valley, Zaca Mesa is dedicated to estate grown and bottled wines. All the wines are made from grapes grown on 244 acres of vineyards. Zaca Mesa was the first to plant syrah in Santa Barbara in 1978 and now farms 90 acres of the grape. These three Syrah definitely will grab your attention.

2008 Santa Ynez Valley
($25). This wine is the most typical of Zaca Mesa’s style. It bursts with red and black berries, smoke, mocha and spice. The smooth texture is enlivened by ripe tannins in the finish.

2007 Mesa Reserve ($44). This reserve is crafted from the best barrels of Zaca Mesa’s “Mesa B” block. It is incredibly concentrated with tons of fruit. All the dark berries and smoked meat one would expect, accented with suggestions of mocha, smoke and spice. It will continue to evolve for several years.

2006 Black Bear Block Estate Bottled Santa Ynez Valley
($60). The Black Bear Block is a single 3½-acre block planted with cuttings from (wouldn’t you know it) Chapoutier. This wine is serious stuff. Dense and rich, powerful yet elegant, it bursts with berries, cherries, and currants, all black. Mocha, pepper, oak, meat, and smoke all join the chorus. It finishes with elegant tannins and a touch of chocolate. And will drink well for at least a decade.

Hopefully, if consumers like you try wines like these, Syrah/Shiraz will soon regain its rightful place among the royalty of wines.

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CELEBRATE COLORADO WINES!

It’s been a good year for Colorado Wine.

For the first time since the repeal of Prohibition, Colorado wineries reported more than one million liters of wine to the Colorado Department of Revenue, an increase of 10 percent over the previous year. Over the past five years, production has increased 70 percent and Colorado wines’ market share, though still comparatively small, has grown 30 percent.

Mt. Garfield & the Bookcliffs Overlook the Grand Valley

Doug Caskey, executive director of the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board noted, “In the face of a small, difficult harvest in 2010 [production down one-third from 2009] and ongoing economic uncertainty, our wineries continue to expand.”

There are now 100 licensed wineries (compared to six in 1990 and 64 in 2006) in Colorado.  Front Range wineries contributed 41 percent of the wine volume reported to the Department of Revenue, while the wineries in the Grand Valley American Viticultural Area (along the Colorado River between Palisade and Grand Junction) accounted for 47 percent.  Eighty percent of the grapes grown in Colorado come from the Grand Valley AVA, though grapes also are grown in Delta, Montrose, Montezuma, Fremont, Pueblo, Boulder, Larimer, Weld and Kit Carson counties.

"Divinity" by The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey

And you can find wineries located pretty much all over the state. At last count, the Grand Valley on the Western Slope is home to 24 wineries surrounding the cities of Palisade and Grand Junction, while Delta and Montrose counties to the south, including the West Elks AVA, hosts 19 more. Surprisingly, there also are five producers further south in the state’s Four Corners area. And there are even 12 more wineries and tasting rooms scattered throughout our Rocky Mountains. On the Front Range, there are nine more wineries and tasting rooms dotted around Colorado Springs and Cañon City. Finally, in the Denver/Boulder/Ft. Collins region, wine hunters can choose from 38 wineries and tasting rooms.

Around the state there are now several well worth the trip wine festivals that offer fun opportunities to experience Colorado wines throughout the year. In the Grand Valley, the 20th Annual Colorado Mountain Winefest, the state’s premier wine festival, was just completed. And the Mountain Winefest organizers successfully hosted the first annual Colorado Winefest held last June at The Shops at Northfield Stapleton in Denver.

A Celebration of Premier Colorado Wines was an elegant tasting event held two days earlier at the Governor’s Residence. The event featured wines given the awards from the Colorado-only wine competition judged by national and local wine experts under the auspices of the American Wine Society.

There also are two great Colorado wine festivals off the I-25 Corridor south of Denver. The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey in Cañon City just celebrated the 10th Annual Harvest Fest and Winemaker’s Dinner. The Ninth Annual Manitou Springs Colorado Wine Festival was held in June. In addition to excellent wine and food, these are special community events anxiously anticipated each year.

As the Colorado industry has grown into a fine adolescence, as I have heard Caskey describe it, it seems the challenge for its journey to adulthood is to find an identity. One of the most interesting things to me about the Colorado wine

Ag Commissioner John Salazar and Gov. John Hickenlooper Survey the Bounty

industry is that most growers and wineries for a long time focused on the “Big Three” French varietals – cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and chardonnay. Merlot is the most widely planted red grape in the state, with cabernet sauvignon close behind, but plantings of syrah, cabernet franc and pinot noir are increasing, as wines from these varieties show real promise. As for the whites, riesling is now the most widely grown, which makes sense to me, since I’ve long thought it made the state’s best wine. After chardonnay, there are small but significant amounts of gewürztraminer, viognier and pinot gris.

As for the future, with the diversity of soils and climate in Colorado, I expect to see further experimentation. And as vintners learn more about which grapes grow best where and about what has made other wine-producing region successful (maybe a topic for another column), I expect the already improving quality will advance even further. Finally, let’s hope more restaurants will find room on their wine lists for Colorado wines

And you can help promote Colorado wine during the fourth annual Regional Wine Week. The blog DrinkLocalWine is hosting the event from October 9 through October 15. Wine writers, bloggers and consumers are encouraged to share information about wine from what organizers call “The Other 47” states (no California, Washington or Oregon). Share a story or personal anecdote about a Colorado wine, winery, wine region, or wine event. The only catch is you have to do it in 47 words. For more information about Regional Wine Week and the contest, check out www.drinklocalwine.com.

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NOTHING PETITE ABOUT PETITE SIRAH

These days I find consumers are more interested in experiencing wines with unfamiliar flavor profiles and more reasonable prices. If you are looking for full flavored wines that provide a lot of wine for the money, consider Petite Sirah. I don’t think you will be disappointed.

The roots of the petite sirah vine can be traced back to the south of France in the 1880s, where Dr. Francois Durif propagated a crossing of syrah and the obscure variety peloursin. The resulting vine naturally was designated “durif.” Although the grape never caught on in France, it was brought to California and became valued as a blending grape to give wines structure, body and color. In fact, many of the generically labeled red wines produced during the following century contained large amounts of petite sirah. Now, DNA testing has proven that the vast majority of what has been known by that name in California is actually durif.

Concannon Vineyard is credited as the first California winery to bottle a varietal Petite Sirah in 1961. Foppiano Vineyards, another Petite Sirah proponent, followed soon after. Interestingly, these prescient families staked their reputations on a grape that had declined (from about 7500 acres in the 1930s to around 4500 during the 1960s). It paid off because acreage subsequently grew to a peak of about 14,000 acres by 1976, as the grape often was used to improve the quality of many generic red wine blends. Then the grape went into decline again during the 1980s and 1990s and acreage dropped to around 2400 in 1995. Since then, though, many vintners again have come to realize the quality possible from the grape and plantings almost tripled by 2005 and reached about 7500 acres in 2010.

Wineries up and down the state now are making varietal Petite Sirah wines. And a promotional organization, P. S. I Love You (www.psiloveyou.org), which was founded in 2002 with 39 charter members, has more than doubled to 81 winery members in 2011. I think it’s fair to say that organization and its founding director, Jo Diaz deserves much of the credit for the grape’s growing popularity.

Despite its name and origins, petite sirah grape is not a lesser version of syrah. It is a distinct variety that happens to have syrah as one of its parents. Thus, it can display a similar flavor profile to syrah – dark berries, tobacco, leather, earth, mineral and pepper, with an ability to age well. But there are differences – it often produces bigger, denser, more rustic wines that generally age quite well.

Petite Sirah also is a good companion for full flavored foods, including red meats, game, strong cheeses, mushroom dishes, stews and the like. It also would be a fine companion for grilled foods and barbeque. One serving note, though. These wines generally are so full flavored and tannic they will stay fresh for several hours and, in some cases, even a few days after opening a bottle.

I wrote my first review of Petite Sirah in 2003. Although most of the wines were quite good and showed nice dark berry fruit, they also revealed the rough edges and strong tannins of the grape’s rustic nature. I often appreciate rustic wines but many took it too far. With my second tasting report in 2007, I noticed more refinement in the wines but many were still big and tough, a bit exhausting to drink. This time, I was impressed that as a group (20 producers and 24 wines tasted blind), the wines showed more abundant fruit, more complexity, smoother textures, more manageable tannins, and overall better balance. My favorites most clearly reflected these qualities on my palate.

To the extent any of my tastings are representative of California Petite Sirah in general, I perceive this as a positive evolution in style and quality. My favorites most clearly reflected these qualities on my palate. One thing that hasn’t changed, though: Petite Sirah still delivers a lot of character for the money.

I have to say the biggest surprise of my tasting is that Miro Tcholakov made my two favorite wines. His 2008 Miro Cellars ($30) uses fruit from Rockpile, a northern Sonoma County appellation. And tons of fruit there is, along with subtle complexities like licorice and a concentrated, yet elegant impact. The only downside is there are just 50 cases. Miro also is responsible for the 2009 Trentadue Alexander Valley Estate ($18). I really loved this wine’s berry pie fruit, silky texture and powdery tannins. I should add I also liked the reserve style 2009 Trentadue “La Storia” ($28), which showed more woodsy, tobacco notes but also strong acids that suggest a long life.

And there were other good wines from Sonoma. The 2007 Field Stone “Staten Family Reserve” ($35) from and Alexander Valley vineyard planted in 1894 that is now farmed organically and sustainably, was rather brooding and tough at first but eventually yielded to time and revealed deep fruit to go along with the strong tannins. From one of the earliest Petite Sirah advocates, the Foppiano Russian River Valley ($20) had nice blueberry fruit accented with cinnamon and tobacco aromas and toasty, peppery flavors.

And then there was another surprise. Two of my other favorites came from Cabernet country, the Napa Valley: 2008 R & B Cellars “Pizzicato” ($28) and 2008 Ballentine “Fig Tree Vineyard” ($25). Both wines come from single vineyards and both are concentrated, tannic wines that would benefit from cellaring. The R & B adds black licorice, pine and tobacco notes, while the Ballentine goes more to ripe berries and spice.

Other northern California wine regions also were well represented. From El Dorado County in the Sierra Foothills, the 2007 Lava Cap “Granite Hill Vineyard Reserve” ($30) began big and brash with touches of mint and cinnamon but later opened up to reveal lovely sweet fruit. From nearby Lodi, the 2007 McCay ($24) seemed reticent to show its fruit at first. Burnt notes and tight tannins dominated the wine but that dissipated and later the wine showed good rasiny fruit and hints of cinnamon and mint. By contrast, the 2007 Shannon Ridge ($24) from Lake County, although finishing with tough tannins, immediately displayed its intense blueberry fruit. Despite considerable size and weight, it had an enticing texture.

I also enjoyed two wines from Paso Robles. A 2007 Clayhouse Red Cedar Vineyard ($25) offered spice and coffee in the nose but lots of fruit and soft tannins on the palate. The 2007 Vina Robles “Jardine Estate” ($26) was dominated by dry forest and spicy herb notes but presented a nice core of red fruit with black licorice followed by a hint of bitterness.

Finally, there also were several notable values.

• 2009 The Crusher “Grower’s Selection” ($14). One of three wines in my tasting from Don Sebastiani & Sons, a company that offers an extensive portfolio of wines made with grapes from numerous regions in the state. This one benefits from Clarksburg fruit that yields tasty currant and raisin fruit balanced with soft tannins. Their 2008 Smoking Loon California ($9) is a bit too syrupy for me but that is offset with tobacco notes and fresh tannins. It should be a crowd pleaser.
• 2008 Bogle ($11). This winery, well known for its value priced wines, has been producing Petite Sirah since 1978. Juicy black fruits are offset with minty peppery notes.
• 2007 Parducci (Mendocino) ($11) is made with organically grown grapes from the oldest winery in Mendocino. Parducci is deeply committed to sustainability from the vineyard to the winery and has produced a juicy wine with fresh fruit and admirable intensity.
• 2008 Concannon “Conservancy” ($15). This winery, founded in the Livermore Valley 1883, has sourced the grapes for this wine only from growers who have placed their land in a legal trust that protects the vineyard from urban develop. That’s especially good for consumers because this wine is full flavored and large scaled.

Although Cabernet Sauvignon is by far still the most popular red wine, producers and consumers alike have become interested in alternatives both for more reasonable prices and to experience different flavor profiles. If you haven’t tried it lately, I suggest you consider Petite Sirah. If you are looking for full flavored wines that generally provide a lot of wine for the money, I don’t think you will be disappointed.

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RED, WHITE AND SUMMER: WINES FOR WARM WEATHER SIPPING

Fresh, Fragrant Whites Are Perfect For Warm Weather

What I like most about spring and summer is the blossoming of aromas and how that signals the awakening of life after the rest of winter.  And a cool white wine is just the compliment for the warmer weather. But not just any white wine and certainly not Chardonnay, which is fine but I’m looking for alternatives that are generally lighter and more refreshing.

For my purposes here, that mostly means the so-called “aromatic whites” Riesling and Muscat. These delightful wines are crisp, fruity, and fragrant. And they are natural matches for the lighter foods of summer. It also means the white Rhone varietals – Viognier, Roussanne, and Marsanne, which admittedly are more “Chardonnay-like” but offer intriguingly different flavor profiles.

For generally reasonable prices, these wines also provide a refreshing combination of acidity and in many cases moderate alcohol – perfect for warm weather. They are great as aperitifs or with food. They are especially good with Asian food but would work well with spicy foods, picnic fare, salads and even simple grilled foods.

I’m one of those who think that, all things considered, riesling makes the greatest white wines in the world. In Germany and Alsace it produces aromatic wines of high acid and, unusual for a white wine, potentially long life. The fragrant, flowery aromas lead into fresh green apple, pear and occasionally peach, apricot, pineapple, or mineral flavors are delivered with bracing acidity.

No Alsatians in my recent tastings but a tasty 2009 Rudolf Müller Riesling from Germany (2009, $10 or $24 3L Octavin) offers good everyday drinking. From Australia, the 2009 Chateau Tanunda Grand Barossa ($16) from a cool climate estate vineyard is a good example of how well this grape can do down under. In the U.S., Washington State is making world class Riesling. A recent favorite is the 2009 Seven Hills Columbia Valley ($14). It is made in a refreshing low alcohol style that is slightly sweet. From California, the 2009 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($12) and 2009 Carmel Road Monterey ($14) also are tasty options.

Much to my pleasant surprise, a recent market report announced that moscato is the fastest growing varietal with sales last year almost doubling. I have long been a fan of Italy’s Moscato d’Asti. This floral, fruity, slightly effervescent wine from the Piedmont is made from the partially fermented juice of white muscat grapes. It is sweet, delightfully aromatic and delicate on the palate, low alcohol (6%) and equally comfortable as an aperitif or a dessert wine.

The 2010 Paolo Saracco Moscato d’Asti ($16) is exemplary of the style from a favorite producer. Camposaldo makes a similarly enjoyable 2010 Moscato ($14) from grapes grown in Lombardy. And what better proof do I need of the grape’s newfound popularity than the delightful 2010 Moscato ($7) I just tasted from none other than Australia’s [yellow tail]. The mass producer actually has done a decent job of imitating Italy’s signature style.

One of California’s leading producers of Rhone-style wines is Santa Barbara’s Zaca Mesa. Zaca Mesa was one of the first vineyards in the region, having been established in the Santa Ynez Valley in the early 1970’s. They have released a 2009 Viognier ($20) that offers honey and loads of exotic fruits and a silky texture with a vibrant finish. Their 2007 Roussanne ($25) deals in apricots and figs laced with zippy acidity, full body and an intriguing waxy texture.

Another fine choice is the 2008 Treana White ($25), from one of the leading Paso Robles grower/winemaking families who here has blended Marsanne and Viognier mostly from Monterey’s esteemed Mer Soleil Vineyard into a juicy wine of honeyed citrus and tropical fruits. Washington also is excelling with Rhine varietals. I was especially impressed with Seven Hills 2009 Viognier Talcott Vineyard ($20). The wine explodes with ripe, juicy peach and honeysuckle, with hints of citrus and stone fruits.

Chenin Blanc, native to the Loire Valley, also is a personal favorite. In California, it is usually produced in a fruity, slightly sweet style, though a few brave souls (like Dry Creek Vineyard) make a dry style inspired by the fine wines of Savennieres. I recently tasted for the first time an innovative chenin blanc blend from Pine Ridge, one of the pioneering wineries in the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley. The winery has a reputation as a master at blending. Its 2009 Chenin Blanc + Viognier ($12) is a unique and uniquely successful combination of Clarksburg chenin blanc and Lodi viognier.

The recommendations above are a good start on the summer white wine search. Next comes a quest for Gewurztraminer, Albarino, Verdejo, Torrontes, Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache Blanc, and Pinot Blanc and other good reasons to look forward to spring and summer.

European (And One South African) Reds For Summer Grilling

Although it’s common to think more about white wines as the weather warms, many of us still enjoy a good red, even in summer. I’ve come across several good candidates to match with the season’s grilled and more casual foods.

A fine place to start, maybe to toast the season, is with a bottle of red bubbly. That’s right, red. I suggest the unique Italian sparkler from the Piedmont region known as Brachetto d’Acqui (signifying first the grape, then the town). The 2010 Rosa Regale ($20) from the highly regarded Banfi family is deeply fruited (cherry, strawberry) and exuberant, with refreshingly low alcohol.

As a wine that is generally best slightly chilled, Beaujolais is the ideal red for warm weather. From the northern French region of the same name, Beaujolais is made using a special whole bunch fermentation process solely with the gamay grape, known for a flavor profile of mostly bright red fruits, floral, herbal and mineral notes, and lively acidity. I’ve recently enjoyed several good ones from the highly touted 2009 vintage. Whichever level you choose, Beaujolais represent s one of the best values around.

For a good introduction to the region sample a wine labeled “Beaujolais-Villages.” These are blended from specifically authorized vineyards in the northern of the region. A reliable option here is the 2009 Louis Jadot ($13), which shows a typically lighter but fleshy character with touches of licorice and lively red fruits.

Next try a wine from one of the ten most important villages (or “cru”). Here, a great place to start is with the “Flower Label” wines of Georges Dubeouf, probably the most respected and widely available producer. A good one is the 2009 Morgon ($14), which has richness and depth not often found with many other crus.

There also are single-vineyard Beaujolais that are a real treat for their distinctiveness. Two more from Duboeuf: 2009 Moulin-a-Vent “Tour du Bief” ($17) – quite full and rich, with many layers – and especially 2009 Fleurie “Domaine des Quatre Vents” ($17) – floral, full of ripe fruit, yet balanced and velvety.

From the southern France region of Rousillon near the border with Spain comes another option, this time a blend of so-called Rhone varietals. The 2008 Chateau de Jau Cotes du Roussillon Villages ($16) combines syrah, mourvedre, carignan, and grenache to produce an easy drinking wine of darker fruits and soft tannins.

This time of year, I’m especially fond of Portuguese table wine. While the region surrounding the Douro River in northern Portugal is famous for Port, table wine from the area has become a go-to choice for excellent value. The wines are made with the same varieties used to make Port and even sourced from the same vineyards as each winery’s Port.

The 2008 Dow’s “Valle do Bomfim” ($12) offers bright mixed berry fruit, spicy intrigue and a balance of structure with mellow tannins. The 2008 Quinta de Roriz “Prazo de Roriz” ($17) delivers deep fruit, mostly black cherry, and an appealing mineral note in a stylish frame that also finishes with soft tannins. It probably shouldn’t be a surprise that the region known for making the great Port wines would emerge as a contender in quality table wines.

Finally, for those of you who insist on a Cabernet Sauvignon, I submit the 2008 Glen Carlou “Grand Classique” ($20). South African wines have improved significantly in recent years and this one, Glen Carlou’s signature red wine, is a really fine example of a Bordeaux-style blend. The addition of merlot, petit verdot, malbec and cabernet franc results in a wine with impressive complexity for the price. Strong black cherry and plum wrapped in an oak blanket are accompanied by touches of tobacco and mint. The velvety texture compliments a tight structure.

Whether it’s a classic cab, a hearty Douro, a bottle of Mediterranean sunshine, a refreshing Beaujolais, or an effervescent Italian, you can’t go wrong with red this summer.