The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

December 20, 2012December 22, 2012

PEOPLE’S PALATE WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR DECEMBER 19, 2012

SWEETS FOR THE HOLIDAYS

Something about the cold weather and holidays always gets me in the mood for a good dessert wine. I’ve discovered a few that I am looking forward to helping me get through the holidays and the rest of winter.

Port

Although I enjoy Port all year long, there is something about cold weather that gets me thinking about stocking up on this special dessert wine from Portugal’s Douro River Valley. The warming quality of Port’s intensity and high alcohol really hits the spot this time of year. There are many styles and a number of special designations but the wines are so good, the little extra effort it takes to understand them will be greatly rewarded. Actually, there are two basic styles: mostly wood-aged Port, usually classified as Tawny; and mostly bottle-aged Port, including Vintage, Late Bottled Vintage and Ruby.

Vintage Port is made only in exceptional years from the finest grapes in the top vineyards. They are dark, with intense fruit, great depth, and tannic grip. They also are quite expensive. Since I can’t afford Vintage Port often, one of my favorite alternatives is made by Ficklin Vineyards, a family operation that has been producing highly regarded California Port-style wines for three generations. The 1996 Ficklin Vintage Port ($36), though less intense than the Portuguese version, still is impressively rich and ready to enjoy immediately but will develop well.

Late Bottled Vintage Port (or LBV) also is an affordable alternative. It is made from good wines of a single year that didn’t quite make the cut for Vintage Port. Aged four to six years before bottling, it is ready to drink upon release but can last a few years. I enjoyed Dow’s 2007 LBV ($22), from the family’s fourth winemaking generation, for its full body and blackberry fruit balanced with good acidity and soft tannins.

Ruby Port is the youngest and most accessible Port. Aged three years in large vats to retainfreshness, expect straightforward, grapey fruit. Cockburn’s “Special Reserve” ($22), crafted to be more concentrated than a standard Ruby by this 200 year old producer, is a delectable choice with aromas of ripe plums and dark cherries and concentrated flavors to match. Fonseca Bin No. 27 ($21), another nearly two hundred year old family winery is quite intense with lively red fruits and good structure. Here again, Ficklin is a California alternative worth considering. I have been drinking the Old Vine Tinta Port ($18), which is produced using a unique solera blending system, for more than 30 years and it has never disappointed me.

Tawny Port is known less for power and concentration than for complexity, purity of fruit and finesse. Tawnies areblended wines and the best indicate an average age. Expect the balance, elegance and complexity to increase with the older wines. The Taylor Fladgate 20 Year Old ($56) is amazingly pure with vibrant, deep fruit, nutty complexity and great balance. The Fonseca 10 Year Old ($33) is quite fine in its own right and certainly more affordable, though a little sharper and not as complex. And don’t forget Ficklin’s Aged 10 Years ($28), which I enjoyed for its attractive plum and cinnamon and lingering finish.

Some California producers make a Port-style wine often using zinfandel because of itsability to develop naturally high alcohol levels without fortification. The 2009 Dashe Late Harvest Zinfandel (375 ml, $24) certainly conjures the character of a Ruby Port. It has fine structure and acidity, with aromas and flavors of raspberry and black pepper. The 2009 St. Francis Sonoma County Port ($38) is a rich, blend of cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel, merlot, syrah, and alicante bouchet. Aromas of spice and dark fruits lead to exuberant wild berry flavors and a silky texture.

Banyuls

Where the south of France hugs the Mediterranean Sea, the Languedoc and the Roussillon produce a wide variety of sweet wines, mostly from variations of the white grape muscat and occasionally the red grape grenache. Most of these wines (known as Vin Doux Naturel) are made by fortifying the partially fermented wine with grape spirits. This report covers three of the best.

From the terraced vineyards near the seaside town of the same name, Banyuls, (grenache is the dominant grape) is a truly underappreciated sweet red wine. Since it is red and fortified, it is tempting to compare Banyuls to Port. But there are differences, such as lower alcohol and a slightly lighter style. A fine example comes from one of the estates of the Dauré family, one of the Roussillon’s leading producers. The 2009 Les Clos de Paulilles “Rimage” (500 ml, $25) does bear a resemblance to Vintage Port with its blackberry, cherry fruit and chocolate notes.

Muscat de Saint Jean de Minervois

Muscat de Saint Jean de Minervois is one of the most important muscat based Vin Doux Naturel. It comes from high altitude vineyards on an arid plain near the Languedoc community of the same name and north of the historic town of Narbonne. The wine is made with muscat blanc à petit grains, the best of the many muscat varieties. I found the nonvintage Les Petit Grains (375 ml, $14), from Les Vignerons de la Méditerranée (the growers association responsible for the good value Val d’Orbieu wines) to be a fine representative of the appellation. Its dramatic aromatics and fruit forward apricot, citrus and honey qualities are enticingly satisfying.

Muscat de Rivesaltes

In the Rousillon region, neighbor to the Pyrenees Mountains that form the border with Spain, Muscat de Rivesaltes is an appellation that accounts for most of France’s Muscat production. The Dauré family’s other estate, Château de Jau (which dates to 1792) is a standard bearer in the Rousillon and its Muscat de Rivesaltes is a fine example of the type. Although much Rivesaltes is made with the lesser muscat of Alexandria, the 2009 Chateau de Jau Muscat de Rivesaltes (500 ml, $25) is distinguished by the use of muscat blanc à petit grains. It is similar to the Les Petit Grains, though in a lighter, more refreshing style.

Sauternes

Many consider Sauternes the greatest of all sweet wines. The production zone is located just south of Bordeaux. This storied wine results from the marriage of late harvested semillon (with small amounts of sauvignon blanc or occasionally muscadelle), and the amazing “noble rot” known as botrytis cinerea. This leads to deeply concentrated juice that yields luscious nectar of a wine – honeyed, earthy and even a little spicy. For a great introduction to the wonders of Sauternes at a fair price, enjoy the 2008 Château de Cosse (375 ml, $25), This is the second wine of the great Château Rieussec. Yet it carries all of the qualities one would look for in fine Sauternes.

Tokaji Aszu

Although it is largely unknown among American consumers, Tokaji Aszu (pronounced TOE-keye-ee AH-zhu) is one of the greatest sweet wines on the planet. The Tokaj-Hegyalja region is about 150 miles northeast of Budapest, Hungary in the Zemplen Mountains at the confluence of the Tisza and Bodrog rivers. It is here, not France or Germany, where the first discovery of the botrytis cinerea (the “noble rot”) was documented over 400 years ago, when it was realized the juice from rotten grapes could produce an unctuous, sweet wine. Tokaji Aszu is crafted from indigenous grapes – primarily furmint, harslevelu and muscat blanc. Its unique production method involves blending a dry base wine with a sweet paste of aszu (the botrytis-infected grapes) in various proportions. The amount of residual sugar in the wine is ranked in levels ranging from 3 puttonyos up to 6 puttonyos. No surprise Tokaji Aszu became celebrated, favored by royal families throughout Europe. It’s rich, thick and refreshing because of the high acidity, with the flavors of dried apricots and oranges.

Today, the Royal Tokaji Wine Company, founded just in 1990, is the most importantproducer of Tokaji Aszu and lucky for us the most readily available in America. These wines can be ridiculously expensive, so it is a real treat to find such quality at reasonably accessible prices. The 2007 5 Puttonyos “Red Label” (500 ml, $43) is a wine for superlatives. Amazingly luscious but lively, balanced and refreshing, you are likely to discern tropical, apricot, peach, and orange aromas and flavors. Intriguing hints of honey and earth cross the rich palate balanced with firming acidity. The 2009 Mád Cuvée Late Harvest (375 ml, $20) is made from vineyards near the town of Mád not far from Tokaj. It is lighter and fresher but definitely has a sense of richness – an excellent introduction to the style, exhibiting a fine balance between fruity sweetness and taut acidity.

December 10, 2012December 10, 2012

THE PEOPLE’S PALATE WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR DECEMBER 9, 2012

For this People’s Palate Weekly Wine Recommendations, I feature two types of wine that are ideal choices for holiday meals and festivities.

The white is a Vinho Verde from the region of the same name in northwestern Portugal. Vinho Verde translates to “green wine” and for good reason. The cool, wet climate and granite soils here present growers a challenge to harvest ripe grapes. Those that do produce a pleasantly aromatic, light bodied wine that is high in acid, (sometimes with a bit of fizz on the tongue), and brisk apple and citrus fruit, occasionally accented with mineral or savory elements. Low in alcohol, they are perfect as an aperitif and with lighter dishes.

There are about half a dozen key grapes used in varying proportions and many of the finished wines are bottled nonvintage – blended from more than one harvest. Arguably alvarinho is the finest of these. Actually, alvarinho is the Portuguese name for the albarino grape grown in nearby Galicia across the border in Spain. Compared to other Vinho Verde, it yields a more fragrant, full-bodied, wine that is higher in alcohol and can reveal quite a bit of richness and character.

This certainly proved the case with this week’s selection – the 2011 Vera Alvarinho Vinho Verde ($16). The Vera is 100% alvarihno from vineyards in a warmer, drier area. There is a slight tingle on the tongue, followed by rich flavors of ripe apple, lemon and lime. This depth of fruit is balanced with bright acidity and the wine finishes with spice notes. Enticing now, this is a wine with enough character to age and for a few years.

I actually have another fun VV choice for you – the Broadbent Vinho Verde ($10). This delightfulwine (at a great price) opens with the impression of a light sparkling wine and that is confirmed in the mouth with fairly significant spritz. A touch of fresh green apple and a clean finish makes this a great quaffer. This is a nonvintage wine, so look on the back label for the “Seal of Guarantee” (Selo de Garantia) and the “/2011” notation.

My red wine choice this week is Beaujolais. My first offering is the Beaujolais Nouveau from Georges Duboeuf. This time of year, Beaujolais is a choice red wine option and Beaujolais Nouveau is especially fun. Every year, on the third Thursday of November, the Beaujolais Nouveau is released to great fanfare, as it is traditionally the first wine of the new harvest.

Coincidentally available just in time for the holidays, the 2012 Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau ($10) is one of the most widely available and always a good choice. The color is a deep purplish ruby and the wine mimics that impression with vibrant, forward berry fruit, balanced with good structure. It is best served chilled.

But Nouveau isn’t your only Beaujolais option. There are 12 different Beaujolais appellations, 10 of which are associated with a key village and are known as “Crus” to designate the region’s most celebrated and unique wines. Gamay is the primary varietal of Beaujolais, representing 99 percent of the region’s wines. Beyond Beaujolais, cultivation of gamay is rare, making drinking the region’s wines a unique experience.

The Beaujolais region is actually part of the Burgundy region. It is located in the south of Burgundy just north of Lyon in eastern France. Granite soils, some laced with limestone and clay, and abundant sunshine provide an environment in which the grapes develop deep fruit and a solid structure.

From Duboeuf, you can’t go wrong with the 2011 Morgon “Jean Descombes” ($16). The Jean Descombes is a perennial favorite of mine. It has loads of black cherry and plum fruit and finishes with and intriguingly savory element.

My other Beaujolais selection comes from Louis Jadot, the iconic Burgundy producer – 2010 Louis Jadot Moulin-à-Vent “Château des Jacques” ($22). Maison Louis Jadot bought the Château des Jacques in 1996 and produces several Moulin à Vent, Fleurie, Morgon, and Chenas under this label. This wine is quite full-bodied, with deep black cherry fruit and savory brown spices. The plump texture is buttressed with noticeable tannin. If for some reason you don’t drink it up now, this one definitely can develop over the next several years.

December 4, 2012December 4, 2012

HOLIDAY WINE GIFTS 2012 – CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON AND BLENDS

Throughout most of the year I’m pretty much an “ABC” guy (Anything but Cabernet or Chardonnay). I’m not militant about it mind you. I just appreciate diversity, adventure. I find trying different wines from different grapes, from different regions educational … and exciting. And there is so much out there to try.

But, for some reason, when the holidays come around, I turn all traditional and look for a top notch California Cabernet Sauvignon to give as gives to family and friends. If you are at all like me in this regard, you should appreciate the following list. For those of you who are reading this and saying, “What a cop out,” you have to acknowledge that great California Cab’s (and I include in this various blends) are fine wines in their own right and as a bonus carry a certaincaché that carries extra value for special occasion. And maybe next year I’ll be more creative.

The following wines are listed in order of my preference but all are recommended. I also provide information about the wine’s style to help you choose.

2009 Francis Ford Coppola Winery “Eleanor” ($50)

This wine is produced in honor of Coppola’s wife, with the grapes coming from the esttate’s vineyards in Sonoma (72 percent) and Napa (28 percent). Winemaker Corey Beck has blended Syrah (54 percent) and Cabernet Sauvignon (46 percent) into a rich, and luscious but supple wine. It shows ripe, mouthfilling fruit of currants, raspberries and black cherries, all layered with notes of black pepper, earth, and herbs. While it is full flavored and well structured, it also is the essence of balance, finishing with fine-grained tannins. This wine is enjoyable now but should develop for 10-15 years.

2009 Caymus Napa Valley ($68)

Caymus has been one of California’s premier Cabernet producers for nearlyforty years. The Wagnerfamily’s Special Selection is almost always near the top of critic’s lists and the Napa Valley bottling isn’t far behind. This vintage is flashy and opulent, supple and luxurious, with a creamy texture. It exhibits succulent flavors of dark berries, currants and cassis. Yet it has a solid structure that maintains a certain elegance. I sense added complexity in touches of mocha, tobacco, espresso and underbrush. Delicious to drink now and over the next 10 years.

2008 Frank Family Napa Valley ($50)

This winery, founded by long time Hollywood executive Rich Frank and Connie Frank twenty years ago, just seems to get better with each successive vintage. Todd Graff, who has been the winemaker since the beginning, has crafted a big, rich, ripe wine loaded with delectable plum, currant and blackberry fruit accented nicely with oak, herbal and tobacco notes. But the wine harmonizes all this in a supple texture and elegant finish. It can be enjoyed now and for another ten years.

2008 Rodney Strong “Symmetry” Alexander Valley ($55)

This winery has been a Sonoma County pioneer since 1959 and arguably is making its best wines ever. Tom Klein, whose family has owned the winery since 1989, and Rick Sayre, who has been the winemaker since 1979, have continued this pioneering approach to sustainability, where they have taken these practices farther than almost any winery in California – including solar powered electricity and getting certified carbon neutral. Symmetry is a classic Bordeaux-style blend dominated by 79% cabernet sauvignon. This wine definitely falls into the big, ripe and rich category. It fills the mouth with blackberry, blueberry, plum, cassis, and currant fruit. Layers of complexity emerge from woodsy, meaty, mineral, and cedar notes. The dense fruit and considerable tannins call for lengthy aging (5-15 years) but suggest it will be well worth the wait.

2008 Hess Collection 19 Block Cuvee Mt. Veeder ($36)

This is another in a string of recent successes for what is essentially a Bordeaux-style blend of 69 percent cabernet sauvignon with malbec, syrah, merlot and petit verdot. It is a good example of the owner (Swiss businessman Donald Hess’ (who founded the winery in 1978) commitment to mountain grown fruit and sustainable practices. The wine shows the expected concentrated fruit – in this case blackberry and black currant. However, it also displays a softer texture than expected from high altitude grapes. Herbal, wood and forest notes add complexity, while friendly tannins encourage short-term drinking (bit it will hold for ten plus years.

2008 Rodney Strong Reserve Alexander’s Valley ($45)

This is another Rodney Strong wine packed full of ripe dark fruits. Savory notes add complexity, as do hints of herbs, licorice, chocolate and oak. The wine has such juicy flavors and well-mannered tannins, it seems to beg for early drinking but should reward patience for a good ten years.

2008 Grgich Hills Napa Valley Estate Grown ($60)

Now here’s a wine made in … what shall I call it? The traditional style? The Old World style? It certainly is not what has come to be known as the “fruit bomb” overblown Napa style of recent years. Under the direction of Mike Grgich, who has been making wine in Napa for over fifty years, the winery has seen its estate vineyards certified organic and biodynamic and converted its electricity to solar power. But the wines remain true the higher acid, elegant style. This wine clearly presents strong tannins but they frame deep, pure blackberry, cherry and currant fruit. There also are noticeable woodsy, savory notes of tobacco, spice and licorice. Enjoyable now, I think it will be better in five years and will drink well at least another ten.

2009 Priest Ranch Somerston Vineyards Napa Valley ($48)

Somerston Vineyards in the far eastern reaches of the Napa Valley has been a working ranch since 1847, which has included grape growing for only about the last forty. A few years ago, realizing the quality of the fruit, the current owners decided to make their own wine. With this vintage, winemaker Craig Becker has crafted another fine example of mountain grown fruit. It is a big, rich, powerful style where ripe berries are joined with complex notes of loam, earth, leather, and licorice. It all rides on a plush texture and ends with soft, though firm tannins. It’s friendly enough to drink now but might be even better in five and should evolve for another decade.

2008 Dry Creek Vineyard The Mariner Dry Creek Valley ($40)

In 1972, David Stare was one of the pioneers of the rebirth of winemaking in the Dry Creek Valley. While the valley and Dry Creek Vineyard are best known for Zinfandel, a fair amount of high quality cabernet sauvignon –based wines also are produced. The Mariner is the winery’s Bordeaux-style blend (42% cabernet sauvignon, 35% merlot, with the rest petit verdot, malbec and cabernet franc). This vintage impresses for its solid structure framing rich dark fruits and overlayed with dried herbs, wood and tobacco notes. It is quite dry. Drink over the next decade.

2009 Round Pond Estate Rutherford ($50)

Located in the heart of the coveted cabernet cornucopia that is the Rutherford appellation of the Napa Valley, the MacDonnell family has been growing grapes here since the early 1980’s. Recently, they decided to make their own wine from their highly sought after grapes. This Estate wine is flashy, rich, and supple. Abundant, sweet blackberry and currant fruit is wrapped in generous oak and shows hints of cocoa. The lush palate gains chewy density in the finish. Give it a couple of years to allow the fruit and tannin to meld; then enjoy it over the next decade.

2008 Newton The Puzzle Spring Mountain District ($80)

This winery has occupied the upper echelons of Napa’s elite since it was established 35 years ago. It’s wines are notable for their origins in high altitude vineyards in the Spring Mountain District on the west side of the Napa Valley and the use of indigenous yeast in fermentation and their bottling without filtration. The Puzzle is a blend of 42% merlot and 36% cabernet sauvignon, with cabernet franc, petit verdot and malbec. It is made is a super ripe style with loads of plum, blackberry, currant, and cherry fruit. There is plenty of oak and hints of herbs, cola, and tobacco. With all that fruit and elegant, restrained tannins, one would be tempted understandably to drink it now but it might develop complexity if you cellar it for five or ten years.

2008 Freemark Abbey Napa ($40)

Freemark Abbey is one of Napa Valley’s oldest wine properties, having been established in 1886. It also played an important part in the revival of California wine, as there were two Freemark Abbey wines included in the famous 1976 Paris Tasting. The 2008 Cab emphasizes a fruit-driven, approachable style. Lively red currant and cherry fruit is deepened with spice, tobacco and licorice notes. While there is noticeable oak and fairly firm tannins, the texture is supple making this a wine to enjoy within the next few years.

Below are eight other wines presented without tasting notes because I’m running long. But they still are recommended and I plan to review them in more detail in another column.

2009 Duckhorn Napa ($68)

2008 Jordan Alexander Valley ($52)

2009 J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyard Napa ($40)

2009 Treana Red Paso Robles ($35)

2009 Atalon Napa ($35)

2008 Dry Creek Vineyard Meritage Sonoma County ($28)

2009 Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Sonoma County ($28)

2008 Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Creek Valley ($25)

November 25, 2012November 25, 2012

THE PEOPLES PALATE: WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS

THE PEOPLES PALATE: WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS

(for the week of November 25, 2012)

Tio Pepe “Fino en Rama” ($25)

Tio Pepe is the well-known brand of Sherry produced by Spain’s Gonzalez & Byass, one of the nation’s oldest Sherry producers, having been established in 1835 in Jerez.

Sherry, of course, is the fortified wine produced in the area lying between Jerez de la Frontera, Puerto de Santa María and San Lucar de Barrameda in southern Spain. Fino is the light, dry style of Sherry achieved by vinification of the palomino grapes under a coating of yeast (called “flor”) that forms on the aging wine and prevents it from oxidizing. Then, the use of the solera system to blend different vintages lends complexity to the finished wine.

Fino en Rama is a specific version of Fino intended to be as fresh and pure as possible (“en rama” can translate as “raw”). This is achieved by minimal treatment of the wine after it is removed from cask. This year, the Tio Pepe Fino en Rama celebrates the 200^th anniversary of the birth of Manuel Maria Gonzalez, the producer’s founder.

This Tio Pepe comes from the finest four casks selected in the spring, when the flor is at its thickest. And critically, unlike most other Sherry (even some en rama), this wine is unfined and unfiltered. Nothing is added to clarify the juice or to filter dissolved solids; these are achieved mostly with settling. So you get all the natural components of the original wine and more complexity than the typical Fino (which is normally fined and filtered to stabilize it for transport).

The resulting wine opens with hints of butterscotch and caramel aromas accented by lemon, spice, minerals, and that trademark almond character. The palate is fresh, tangy and savory. It shows admirable finesse, even delicacy on the palate but at 15% alcohol, it still finishes with a kick.

Fino en Rama (even more so that a regular Fino) is best drunk shortly after bottling. It should be served chilled, refrigerated after opening and drunk within three months. It makes a fine aperitif. It is perfect for cheese, fish, Asian food, egg dishes, nuts and, what else, tapas.

Only about 200 cases of this special wine is available in the U.S.; so look for it now.

2010 Domaine du Pré Baron Sauvignon Touraine ($12)

For most folks, the Loire Valley probably is mostly associated with the dozens of dramatic medieval chateau dotted along the Loire River. For those of us fascinated with wine, it is more importantly a key wine region in France. Although the Loire often is overshadowed by Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone Valley, the region produces an amazing diversity of wines well worth any wine lover’s investigation.

Take for instance Sauvignon Blanc. Some know it likely originated in Bordeaux where it has achieved acclaim among connoisseurs, especially those from the Graves district, where it is blended with semillon. But I might argue it has achieved a purer expression in the Loire Valley. And certainly Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume, districts located at the eastern end of the valley, have achieved well-deserved recognition for their renditions.

I will be writing more about those wines and others from the Loire Valley in the coming months but here I present an excellent choice for you to experience a fine Loire Sauvignon at an everyday price.

The best source for such value priced Sauvignon is the Touraine district, which lies at the center of the Loire Valley. Named after the city of Tours, it stretches along the Loire River and is the Valley’s largest district. “Touraine” also is the regional appellation (sort of like “Sonoma” on a California label).

Sauvignon Blanc typically is quite aromatic, light, fresh and lively, with invigorating acidity. Its flavor profile includes prominent herbal notes (sometimes even described as grassy) and fruit notes of citrus, grapefruit and sometimes gooseberry (as often seems most pronounced with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc). In the Touraine, the mostly sandy clay, occasionally flinty soils, yield racy wines that can show some minerality.

Touraine de Sauvignon (as it is technically known) may not have quite the complexity or refinement of Sancerre or Pouilly Fumé but from a dedicated grower (like the Mardon family of Pré Baron) it can be eminently satisfying. And with attractive pricing, it is a more than reasonable alternative to its more expensive relatives.

This wine, made without the use of oak, shows really nice spicy herb flecked citrus notes and a touch of flinty, smoky aromas. The palate has a fair amount of weight, which carries nice orange and lemon flavors. It is crisp and lively, perfect for light dishes, including chicken, fish and shellfish, and even salads.

November 10, 2012

GERMAN WINE GROWERS BALANCE TRADITION AND MODERNITY WITH AMAZING RESULTS

Fritz Groebe had that look in his eyes, a look of passion and dedication born of family and tradition, a tradition of family viticulture originating in the Rheinhessen 250 years ago. Mr. Groebe took over responsibility for winemaking at the family estate in Westhofen from his father in 1988. In the ensuing years, Fritz has committed to traditional methods, including organic cultivation.

We heard similar stories of family tradition and viticultural practice at almost every stop on our

four day visit to Germany’s Rhenhessen, Mosel and Nahe. I would say Mr. Groebe was the most traditionalist of all the growers we met. His wines are fermented in old wooden casks. And no screw caps here, he only uses cork (sustainably grown, of course) because it has a smaller carbon footprint. But others we met talked about using “integrated” approaches in the vineyard (spraying sulfur instead of pesticides, using compost instead of fertilizer). They may cut fruit to reduce yields and rely on the naturally occurring wild yeast to ferment the wine, yet use stainless steel tanks for fermentation.In the Rheinhessen, the flatter, rolling landscape is more conducive to organic practices. Many said they’re organic, though some admitted they weren’t certified. Actually, everyone we talked to professed to practice some level of sustainable agriculture.

If the family business is to continue in the family, the younger generation must be prepared to take the reins as the older generation moves on. Another experience with this was when we met with three young Rheinhessen winemakers, part of a group called “Message in a Bottle” – Jochen Dreissigacker, whose family’s vineyards surround the village of Bechtheim and date to 1728; Johannes Becker (of Becker Landgraf in Felsenkeller), whose winery continues the tradition of two winemaking families from the 18^th century; and Stefan Winter in Dittelsheim. Mostly in their twenties and thirties, they have moved confidently to modernize the quality of their families’ wines, while still respecting tradition.

Over in the Mosel, where winemaking dates to the Roman occupation 2000 years ago, I was surprised at first when we were told organic farming is “not possible.” It turns out, with the ridiculously steep slopes of most vineyards and the high natural humidity (promoting fungus), it’s just too difficult or too expensive. Still, everyone we talked to professed sustainability concerns saying, “we work close to the land.”

We spent two days visiting growers who produce wine from many of the valleys best vineyards. Our first stop was Dr. Loosen in Bernkastel. Ernst Loosen has run the family estate, which is about 200 years old, since 1988. Ernst was unable to host us for our tasting and dinner that night but his presence was certainly was felt in the wines. And there is quite an array of wines, as Dr. Loosen arguably is the most recognizable name in premium German Riesling in the U.S.

C.H. Berres, based in the village of Urzig, is much less well known in the U.S. but the wines are well worth seeking out. Markus Berres, who took over winemaking in 2006, is the 21^st generation of the family business dating to 1510! Markus has modernized all facets of the operation, including closing all wines in screw caps.

For the Haag family in nearby Brauneberg, the tradition goes back to 1605. Oliver Haag now cultivates prime real estate on the village’s famed mountainside vineyards. The wines are sold under the “Fritz Haag” label.

One night we shared a tasting and dinner with four growers, all members of the “Bernkastel Ring” organization. Andreas Schmitges hosted us at his winery in Erden. Andreas took over the winery in 1990, continuing a tradition that goes back to 1744. We were joined by three others – Bernhard Werner, who has managed the family estate, which dates to 1650, from Leiwen since 1987; Stephan Pauly, whose family winery (Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler) is based in Wehlen and also dates to 1650; and Ernst Clusserath, who with his wife operates a small but important estate based in Trittenheim.

We finished our trip in the Nahe, maybe the least familiar premium German wine region to American consumers. This is really unfortunate. By comparison to the Mosel and the Rheinhessen, the small Nahe seems secluded, even hidden. Yet, its higher elevation, Nahe River, steep slopes, and varied slate, sedimentary, and volcanic soils yield some of Germany’s most distinctive and dramatic wines.

Again, we found the themes of family tradition and working close to the land. Jakob Schneider’s family has been in the wine trading business since 1575. After taking over winemaking responsibilities, he has really elevated the production of the family’s prime holdings around the villages of Niederhaus and Oberhaus.

Just a short way down the road in Oberhausen,

the Donnhoff estate is in the process of transition

from father Helmut to son Cornelius. The family’s

ancestors came to the area in 1750 to work in the

copper mines. Now, Donnhoff wines are prized

the world over.

In Munster-Sarmsheim, Kruger-Rumpf is another family affair. Georg has assumed responsibility for winemaking, while his father consults and his mother runs the restaurant fronting the property. If you ever get a chance to go to the Nahe, make sure to stop by the restaurant. in the meantime, enjoy the wines here.

Finally, did you know Germany is the world’s largest consumer of sparkling wine? I surely didn’t and never gave it much thought either beyond considering it a pleasant curiosity. That stat came from Volker Raumland, who produces what many consider Germany’s best “sekt.” And which I will assert to be as good as many Champagne.

With that exception, almost all of the wines I tasted with these growers were from one grape, Riesling. If you think that would have gotten boring, not with this noble grape and not with wines from such dedicated talented growers. I suggest you take your own trip to your favorite wine shop or restaurant seek out the wineries mentioned here.

October 30, 2012

LATEST BEER NEWS & REVIEWS: GABF, DESCHUTES & SAM ADAMS NEW RELEASES

The 31st Great American Beer Festival (GABF), held a few weeks ago at the Colorado Convention Center, stands as a testament to the intrinsic appeal of craft brewed beer … and to the vision and hard work of the people at the Brewers Association (which organizes it) and to the craft brewers that have proliferated across the country over these years.

New for 2012, the GABF added a Brewpub Pavilion, with approximately 24 breweries representing all regions of the country. The GABF decided to celebrate Brewpubs this year as they make up about half of U.S. breweries, numbering more than 1,000. There also were 110 more breweries at the festival than last year; and a new competition category (the 84th!) – Fresh Hop Ale. This category was added in recognition of brewers increasingly looking for ways to brew beers in sync with the harvest season. This new category showcases ales, which are hopped exclusively with fresh, undried, “wet” hops.

While most everything else in the American economy is contracting, it seems the craft beer world just keeps expanding. The GABF seems to more popular every year, this year selling out in just 45 minutes during the public ticket sale. The GABF remains the largest commercial beer competition in the world. Here are some stats to make the point:

578 breweries (over 100 more than last year) served over 2,700 beers (over 300 more than last year) and the biggest selection of American beers ever served), to 49,000 attendees (including ticketed attendees, brewers, judges, volunteers and journalists).
The 84 beer categories covered 134 different beer styles.
Winners were chosen from 4,338 entries from 666 breweries, from 48 states, Washington, D.C. and Guam, matching its largest field of entries to date.
The top five entered categories were (theoretically and indication of consumer interest):

v American-Style India Pale Ale, 203 Entries

v Imperial India Pale Ale, 128 entries

v Herb and Spice Beer, 114 entries

v American-Style Strong Pale Ale, 111 entries

v American-Style Pale Ale, 109 entries

The GABF is both a public/member festival and a privately judged competition. And once again Colorado was well represented among the awards. Funkwerks of Fort Collins was named Small Brewing Company and Small Brewing Company Brewer of the Year. By my count, 28 Colorado breweries won 33 awards, as listed below:

Fruit Beer, Gold: Apricot Blonde, Dry Dock Brewing Co., Aurora
Coffee Beer, Bronze: Big Shot Espresso Stout, Twisted Pine Brewing Co., Boulder
Specialty Honey Beer, Gold: West Bound Braggot, Twisted Pine Brewing, Boulder
Fresh Hop Ale, Bronze: Colorado IPA Nouveau, Tommyknocker Brewery, Idaho Springs
Indigenous Beer, Gold: Got Beer, BJ’s Restaurant & Brewery, Boulder
Gluten-Free Beer, Silver: Brown, New Planet Beer Co., Boulder
American-Style Brett Ale, Bronze: TPS Report, Trinity Brewing, Colorado Springs
Wood- and Barrel-Aged Strong Stout, Bronze: Barrel Aged Russian Imperial Stout, AC Golden Brewing, Golden
Wood- and Barrel-Aged Sour Beer, Silver: Sentience, Crooked Stave Artisan Beer Project, Denver
Smoke Beer, Gold: Bambastic, Fort Collins Brewery, Fort Collins
Munich-Style Helles, Gold: 6X Helles, CB & Potts Restaurant & Brewery, Fort Collins
Dortmunder or German-Style Oktoberfest, Gold: Move Back, The SandLot, Denver
American-Style Lager, Light Lager or Premium Lager, Bronze: Keystone Light, Coors Brewing, Golden
European-Style Dunkel, Gold: Knight Ryder Munich Dunkel, Equinox Brewing, Fort Collins
Bock, Gold: Butt Head Bock, Tommyknocker Brewery, Idaho Springs
International-Style Pale Ale, Gold: River Runners Pale Ale, Eddyline Brewing, Buena Vista
English-Style Mild Ale, Bronze: S.S. Minnow Mild Ale, Dry Dock Brewing, Aurora
Ordinary or Special Bitter, Bronze: Sawtooth Ale, Left Hand Brewing, Longmont
Extra Special Bitter, Silver: The Tower E.S.B., Bull & Bush Brewery, Denver
Irish-Style Red Ale, Gold: Irish Red, Glenwood Canyon Brewing, Glenwood Springs and Bronze: Balefire Red, Echo Brewing, Frederick
English-Style Brown Ale, Bronze: Molly’s Titanic Brown Ale, Rock Bottom, Westminster
American-Style Brown Ale, Gold: Face Down Brown, Telluride Brewing, Telluride and Silver: Upslope Brown Ale, Upslope Brewing, Boulder
German-Style Altbier, Silver: Land’s End Amber, Kannah Creek Brewing, Grand Junction and Bronze: Little Red Cap, Grimm Brothers Brewhouse, Loveland
German-Style Sour Ale, Bronze: NBB Love Felix, New Belgium Brewing Co., Fort Collins
German-Style Wheat Ale, Gold: Wildpitch Hefeweizen, The SandLot, Denver
Belgian-Style Witbier, Silver: White Rascal, Avery Brewing Co., Boulder
French- and Belgian-Style Saison, Gold: Saison, Funkwerks, Fort Collins and Silver: Saison, Aspen Brewing Co., Aspen
Belgian-Style Strong Specialty Ale, Gold: Deceit, Funkwerks, Fort Collins
Sweet Stout, Silver: Milk Stout, Rock Bottom Westminster
Barley Wine-Style Ale, Bronze: Dr. StrangeLove, Strange Brewing Co., Denver

I was glad to see the festival continued its emphasis on matching beer with food. This was prominently on display in the more intimate Farm-to-Table Pavilion where chefs created dishes using Colorado products to pair with selected beers from around the country.

Chefs Kelly Whitaker of Basta Pizzeria, Alex Seidel of Fruition, Duane Walker of Lola, Joe Troupe of Lucky Pie Pizzeria, Kyle Mendenhall of The Kitchen, Lon Symensma of ChoLon Bistro, and Daniel Asher of Root Down and Linger all clearly were having a great time serving their amazing food with great beers from Alaskan Brewing, Arcadia Ales, Avery Brewing, Ballast Point Brewing, Denver Beer Co., Bevils Backbone Brewing, Firestone Walker Brewing, Ghost River Brewing, Jester King Craft Brewery, Saint Arnold Brewing, Smuttynose Brewing, and Sun King Brewing.

As a “wine guy,” I’m well versed in the affinity between wine and food. So, I have been pleased to see craft brewers in recent years put more effort into making beers that are best drunk with food. The Farm-to-Table Pavilion presented a fine opportunity to discover how much local foods rendered by skilled chefs have in common with craft beer from small and independent breweries. This innovative event is destined to become a perennial highlight of the GABF.

Beer and food pairing also was on display at a press lunch where homebrewing was the other focus. We sipped beers from Epic Brewing Company, Telegraph Brewing, 5 Rabbit Brewery, Catawba Valley Brewing, La Cumbre Brewing, Flying Fish Brewing, Maui Brewing, and Founders Brewing as we learned such facts as more than 1,000,000 people in the United States make beer or wine at home; there are 1327 home brew clubs; 761 homebrew retailers; and the average annual growth in homebrewing from 2005-2011 was twenty percent. And each of the guest brewers drew the connection with commercial craft brewing as they talked about how their passion began with home brewing.

New Samuel Adams Beers

The Boston Beer Company, makers of Samuel Adams beers, hosted a brunch during the GABF to announce the winners of its “LongShot American Homebrew Contest.” It’s really cool that Jim Koch, founder of Sam Adams, has been encouraging homebrewers with this competition for over fifteen years now. The winners – Zach Adams’ Magnificent Seven, James Schirmers’ Beerflower Wheat, and Employee Homebrew Winner Dave Anderson’s Strawberry Lager will be bottled and available nationally in the 2013 Samuel Adams LongShot Variety Six-Pack.

Even more exciting was Jim Koch getting together with Jack MAuliffe, a pioneer of the craft brewing industry and founder of the New Albion Brewing Company, which is considered to be the first craft brewery in the U.S. They have collaborated to brew McAuliffe’s original New Albion Ale for the first time in thirty years. It even will be brewed using its original yeast, which they told us has been preserved all these years at the University of California!

Classified as an American Pale Ale, it is brewed with Cascade hops and a 2-row malt blend. The hops contribute a mild bitterness and citrus, while the malt rounds out the palate to finish with a suggestion of sweetness. Remarkably, Koch says all profits from the sale of New Albion Ale will go to Jack McAuliffe.

Deschutes New Releases

Maybe it’s a coincidence the GABF added a new Fresh Hop Ales category and now Deschutes Brewery of Bend, Oregon has released two new examples of the style. As noted above, the style features fresh, recently harvested hops. This brewing technique adds nuances of green, almost chlorophyll-like character. As someone with a wine writing background, I think of fresh hop as the beer version of Beaujolais Nouveau, wines made from grapes harvested, fermented, bottled and released to the market all within about a two month period.

Deschutes “Hop Trip” is made with “Salmon-Safe” Crystal hops from a farm just three hours away from the brewery. Its citrus and spicy herb notes accent a, yes, fresh smelling and tasting brew. Hop Trip is a new addition to Deschutes’ Bond Street Series, experimental beers made as part of an exploration of “the many nuances and endless possibilities of the almighty hop.”

Not satisfied with that, Deschutes also has added “Chasin’ Freshies” to its experimental Bond Street line-up. A reference to the skier’s eternal pursuit of fresh powder, Deschutes presents this beer as a pursuit of the purest of fresh hops. In contrast to “Hop Trip,” this one is brewed using heirloom Cascade hops from a Salmon-Safe farm in the Willamette Valley. It also is brewed more in the style of an IPA. I liked the citrusy, slightly spicy hops and sweet malt in the nose. In the mouth, it opens with that sweet malt, which then is enlivened with those citrusy hops in the finish.

Enjoy!

October 1, 2012October 2, 2012

GERMANY’S RIESLINGS ARE “SWEET” EVEN WHEN THEY’RE DRY

Normally I would find it a challenge to drink nothing but white wine– and only one type of white wine at that – for and extended period of time.

But this was German Riesling (my personal favorite white wine and arguably, at its best, the greatest white wine in the world) and I was in the Rheinhessen, Nahe, and Mosel on a press trip hosted by the German Wine Institute.

So, in this case, it was no challenge at all. It always has confounded me that Americans don’t appreciate this wonderful wine more. Interestingly, this was a topic of discussion with every grower we met. The two most common explanations we heard – and they are not exclusive of each other – were Americans assume all

German Riesling (actually all Riesling) is sweet at a time when most Americans prefer dry wine. And, to make matters worse, the traditional labels are complex and confusing to consumers such that most can’t tell what they are buying.

Many German producers have responded by simplifying their front labels, often prominently displaying “Riesling” and using only a brand name or just the name of the village or the single vineyard, then putting all the traditional, still legally required information on the back label (for wine geeks like me who appreciate that sort of thing).

They also are working hard to educate consumers (and trade and press) about the variety and high quality of Riesling, hence a major reason for this trip. The main mission seemed to be to emphasize there actually is a lot of dry German Riesling and it is really good stuff!

Still, the basic marketing approach seems a bit schizophrenic, even though it may just be reflecting the contradictions of the American market. Every producer we met with who makes any sweet or off-dry wine said that’s what they mostly export to the U.S. They said it’s because that’s what most U.S. consumers want. Most of their dry wine goes to other markets but they hope to change that.

I guess economic realities dictate they sell what consumers like. Meanwhile, they pursue a parallel strategy to promote their dry wines, in the hope of (even if gradually) building demand. And quite frankly, I’m happy to help. As much as I love the sweeter wines, I was greatly impressed (quite blown away actually) at just how delicious the dry Rieslings were/are.

Before I get into the specific wines and wineries, a few thoughts. Looking back on the four days of winemaker/grower visits, a number of patterns emerge. Although the fifteen growers we visited aren’t a scientifically randomized sample, I do think they are representative of the trends among the best German producers in the top regions.

The first thing I noticed is they are small, especially compared to, say, most California wineries. The exception to this and all of my subsequent observations is Moselland, the largest winery we visited, making 2 million cases annually. Most of the growers we visited produce fewer than 20,000 cases and for several it’s more like 5000.

All of the wineries on our trip are family owned operations that have been in the family business for generations. Many have at least two generations working at the winery. In almost every case, a father had recently retired from day-to-day operations and a son (no daughters on this trip!) had recently taken over as winemaker. The fathers usually were still involved either in the vineyard or basically in a consultant role in the cellar. It also was common to find grandmothers, mothers and sisters helping out with other aspects of the business.

I think all the growers we met are primarily estate producers, meaning they use only grapes from vineyards they own for most of their wines. In a few cases, they also buy fruit to supplement their own to produce their entry level wine (basically a higher volume introduction to the winery).

Each of these estates had their own family history to recount. In most cases, that family history extends at least 150 years, in some as far back as 500 years!

Of course, there wouldn’t be anything to write about without the amazing vineyards. And each grower showed a certain pride, even reverence for their vineyards. We especially heard a lot about slate – the layered, metamorphic rock of sedimentary, clay and sometimes volcanic origins notable for high mineral and crystalline content. These slate soils are prized for their ability to hold moisture and heat and to impart a distinctive sense of those minerals in the resulting wine.

Something else I found interesting about those families and their vineyards: these vineyards don’t have just one owner, as is the case in most other wine regions around the world. In Germany, especially with the top vineyards, ownership is more like what you will find in Burgundy. As I understood the explanation from our hosts, because of Germany’s inheritance laws (dividing property equally among the heirs) and the hundreds of years properties have been passed down, ownership in these top vineyards commonly is shared among dozens of owners.

One thing this did was provide opportunities to compare wines from the same vineyards made by different growers. I’ll discuss that and more about the specific producers and their wines in my next column.

September 7, 2012September 25, 2012

DESCHUTES’ NEW RELEASES IDEAL FOR THE CHANGING SEASONS

Deschutes Brewery (www.DeschutesBrewery.com), the nearly 25 year-old brewery named after the adjacent Deschutes River in Bend, Oregon has done it again. They’ve released two new seasonal beers just in time for us to enjoy as the weather cools and the holidays approach.

Black Butte Porter debuted 24 years ago as Deschutes’ first and flagship brand. This new release, actually a Reserve double porter (the fifth such vintage of this anniversary beer lives up to its reputation as a bold brew. It opens with heavy coffee aromas, then follows with citrus and hints of spice. In the mouth, that coffee is evident but given intrigue with cocoa and a touch of sweetness in the finish. A slight hop bitterness emerges and lingers in the finish. I was captivated by its creamy, lush and substantial texture. After tasting it, I wasn’t surprised to find these intense, complex flavors and mouthfeel resulting from the use of Theo cocoa nibs, Mission figs, and Deglet dates in the mix.

The Stats (12 oz serving):
Alc. 5.2% | IBUs 30 | 192 Calories,
Malt: Pale, Carapils, Chocolate,
Crystal, Wheat 
Hops: Cascade, Bravo, Tettnang

And for the 25th year, Deschutes has produced “Jubelale,” a spicy, malty, hoppy winter seasonal. Jubelale was the very first beer to ever be bottled by Deschutes. This version evokes the season with strong aromas of chocolate and warming chocolate notes. Touches of citrus are joined by heady scents of spice. Pouring the beer through its creamy head, those chocolate and coffee elements are evident. A touch of bitterness lifts the profile, while it finishes with creamy smoothness. And I like the citrusy hops that linger in the aftertaste.

The Stats (12 oz serving):
Alc. 6.7% | IBUs 60 | 192 Calories,
Malt: Pale, Carapils, Chocolate,
Crystal, Wheat 
Hops: Cascade, Bravo, Tettnang

Also of note is the 2012 label displaying artwork created by Bend, Oregon artist Kaycee Anseth Townsend. Through a complex collage process comprised entirely from pieces of Jubelale labels from years past, she has created a fitting tribute to the season.

August 14, 2012September 25, 2012

GREAT WINEMAKERS AND FABULOUS WINES CONVERGE ON ASPEN

For me, one of the best things about the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen is the opportunity it presents to meet winemakers and winery owners and to taste wines from producers whom I seldom or never get a chance to try. And this year, the event’s 30th anniversary shined on that score.

For instance, I had a chance to sit down with winemakers for two iconic (an over used word but it applies in this case) California wineries.

Saturday morning over breakfast I met Gina Gallo, the winemaker for Gallo Family Vineyards in Sonoma. Ms. Gallo, who has been a winemaker for the family for more than two decades, was anxious to tell me about (and have me taste) her new portfolio of wines: the Gallo Signature Series. She explained she wanted to make wines that reflected the best of what California’s top growing regions (particularly her family’s estate vineyards)have to offer.

So, signature has a triple meaning: grapes from signature California wine regions, wines made with special care by Gina Gallo, and labels bearing her signature. “I’m excited to have Gallo estate wines back in the market and to be back working with these wines full time after my recent maternity leave [twins!], Gina said while I sipped the three new wines. First, a well-balanced 2010 Chardonnay ($30) from the Laguna Vineyard in Sonoma. Then a full flavored 2010 Pinot Noir ($35) from Olson Ranch in the Santa Lucia Highlands of Monterey. Finally, a bold and structured 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon ($40) from the William Hill Estate in Napa (buttressed with fruit from the famed Monte Rosso Vineyard).

I would say the wines reflected the personality of their maker: reflective of their origins but with their own expression, welcoming but with depth. I look forward to following the evolution of this portfolio.

That afternoon, I joined Corey Beck, the winemaker for Francis Ford Coppola Winery, for snacks andconversation. Corey began with a little history. In 1975, Francis Ford Coppola and his wife Eleanor purchased portions of the historic Inglenook property and renamed it Niebaum-Coppola to honor Gustav Niebaum who founded the winery in 1879. They quickly established the property as a respected producer and as a major destination for tourists. They have now acquired the rest of the property and recently announced the winery henceforth will again be known as Inglenook again.

In 2006, the Coppola’s purchased the Souverain property in northern Sonoma. They renamed it Francis Ford Coppola Winery and moved production of most of their portfolio there. They also put Corey in charge of all winemaking operations.

Corey has a life long connection to California wine, essentially growing up alongside his grandfather who was the vineyard manager for Napa Valley’s renowned Chateau Montelena and later as their Cabernet Sauvignon Cellar Master. Corey joined Coppola in 1998 as the assistant winemaker. He now oversees seven wine brands including Diamond Collection, Rosso & Bianco, Sofia, FC Reserve, Votre Santé, Director’s, and Director’s Cut. It also is worth noting Coppola has turned the winery into a major tourist destination with a gourmet restaurant, a swimming pool, bocce, and a movie gallery.

Circumstances prevented us from tasting any of Corey’s wines but I really enjoyed the conversation and the history. I also have recommended Coppola wines before and look forward to reporting about new releases in the coming months.

I also made numerous discoveries in the Grand Tasting Tent, where producers from all over the world display their wares. This year I ended up on sort of a world tour.

The journey started at the Wines of Germany table. Wines of Germany has hosted tables here for many years and I always make a point to stop by to taste samples of Riesling (my favorite white wine) from the country that does it best.

With Aldo Sohm, Wine Director of Le Bernadin Restaurant and Michael Schlemmel of Wines of Germany

Next Spain. Wines of Spain for many years has hosted a whole tent as a separate location within the Grand Tasting park and it is always a great place to hunt for new wines. This year I was especially impressed with the wines at the “Drink Ribera” (that’s Ribera del Duero, one of Spain’s most important regions).

From there it was a short walk to the Inter-Rhone table to taste through samples of Cote-Rotie and Chateauneuf-du-Pape and to a nearby table for a taste of Champagne Nocholas Feullate, even their Grand Marque “Palmes d’Or.”

Then it was a visit to the tables of the Instituto del Vino-Grand Marchi. This organization brings together 19 of Italy’s most important wineries, all family owned. I was giddy tasting wines from such producers as Antinori, Donnafugata, Pio Cesare, Michele Chiarlo, and Tasca d’Almerita.

With Allegra Antinori

I finished my tour in California. First I enjoyed tastes of the flagship red of Beaulieu Vineyard, the 2008 Georges de la Tour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, along with the 2008 Tapestry Reserve (Bordeaux-style blend), and 2009 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon.

I concluded with the founder of Buena Vista Winery, Count Agoston Haraszthy. Actually, it was actor George Weber playing the role convincingly (actually how would I know, since Haraszthy is long dead, having founded the winery in 1857). And Buena Vista now is owned by Burgundy-based Boisset Family Estates. But I was happy to have the Count, I mean George, taste me through several wines from Buena Vista (I especially liked the 2008 “The Count” Founder’s Red), and other Boisset-owned California properties: De Loach (2009 Green Valley Pinot Noir), and Raymond (2008 Raymond Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon).

Needless to say, it was another year of discovery at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. I already can’t wait for next year.

August 3, 2012September 25, 2012

Food & Wine Classic in Aspen Celebrates 30th Anniversary, Part 1

It was around Noon Saturday, June 16 when the email came: “Another Kobrand Happy Hour!” It announced a reprise of the importer’s party from the night before.

This sort of thing is fairly routine at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. And this year it was even more so as the Classic celebrated its 30th anniversary. There were so many opportunities to attend receptions, dinners, parties and special tastings, to meet with winemakers, and discover new wines column I had to turn down several invitations and still can only briefly review my itinerary here. And this is what I like most about the Classic: for me at least, it is all about discovery. And this year, we all discovered a new restaurant concept, the Chef’s Club by Food & Wine on Thursday evening at an invitation only event before the official start of the Classic. The restaurant is housed in the St. Regis hotel and will feature menus devised by Food & Wine Best New Chefs. One of the inaugural chefs is Denver’s own Alex Seidel of Fruition. Kudos to Alex!

As always, the official kick off, though, was on Thursday with the Welcome Reception hosted by Trinchero Family Estates. The Trinchero family is one of California’s most influential, producing such highlyregarded brands (in addition to their namesake) as Napa Cellars, Terra d’Oro, Joel Gott, and Montevina.
Next, it was off to Jimmy’s restaurant for a casual dinner hosted by Ferrer Wine Estates and featuringsome of their fine sparklers. While visiting with Eva Bertran, Executive Vice President at Freixenet USA, I enjoyed the Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad ($20) and Freixenet ElyssiaPinotNoir Brut from their extensive line of Cava. I also enjoyed talking and and tasting with Gloria Ferrer (the family’s California winery) winemaker Bob Iantosca. His limited release 2005 Anniversary Cuvee ($45) was especially complex and flavorful.

I concluded this first night at the annual Wines from Spain barbecue hosted by chef Jose Andres. Besidesgreat food, the event featured too many Spanish wines to taste them all or even keep tasting notes but I was impressed enough with the 2006 Bodegas Muga Reserva Seleccion ($40) to write it down in my notesand recommend it here. And that was just the first night! Friday night upped the ante.

At a reception hosted by importer Wilson Daniels, the array of fine winesfrom their international portfolio was truly impressive. I felt like a kid in a candy store, as there were numerous wines that impacted me, from white Burgundy (Leflaive 2008 Pulighy-Montrachet, Laroche 2009 Reserve de l’Obedience Chablis Grand Cru and 2009 Petite Chablis) and Rhone Valley whites (Tardieu Laurent 2007 Hermitage, 2009 Condrieu and 2007 Chateauneuf-du-Pape) to Barbaresco (2005 Ceretto Bricco Asili), Tokaji Aszu (1999 Royal Tokaji 6 Puttanyos), and California Cabernet Sauvignion (2008 Lancaster Estate). Whew!

From there it was a short walk to Mezzaluna restaurant where I enjoyed several delectables with fine wines from Portuguese winery Esporao. My favorite at thistasting was the 2009 Esporao Reserva ($20), an enticing blend of indigenous and international varieties.

Next, it was just across the street to the first Kobrand “happy hour” where I was greeted with a flute of Champagne Laurent-Perrier Brut. I sipped the refreshing bubbly as I chatted with Jacques Lardiere, the great (though now retiring) winemaker of Louis Jadot, the famed Burgundy producer. Then I got myself a taste of his fine 2006 Louis Jadot Pommard “Clos de la Commaraine.)

Saturday night was even more packed. It began with a tasting hosted by the importer Moet Hennessy USA.This tasting featured just one wine, and an Argentinean wine at that: the 2007 Cheval des Andes ($80). This wine, a joint venture between Terrazas de Los Andes and Chateau Cheval Blanc, blends cabernet sauvignon, malbec and petite verdot into a wine that rivals the best of Bordeaux. It was so special it seemed perfectly appropriate that it was the only one at the tasting.

Then it was to the reprise of the Kobrand happy hour. And what a treat it was to have a chance to taste many of the great Lousi Jadot Burgundies, wines even wine writers seldom get to taste. Just look at this line up! 1978 Chevalier Montrachet les Demoiselles1978 Bonnes Mares 1985 Gevrey Chambertin Clos St. Jacques 1986 Batard Montrachet 1989 Vosne Romanee Suchots 1990 Chambertin Clos de Beze 1991 Corton Charlemagne 1996 Beaune Greves 1996 Corton Pougets 1999 Meursault Genevrieres.

After that, I hopped in my car and made my way to the Old Smuggler Mine on the outskirts of the town for the “S’wine at the Mine” festivities hosted by Denver’s Infinite Monkey Theorem (IMT) winery. Paired with multiple preparations of pork products, IMT poured its Blind Watchmaker Red Blend, Sauvignon Blanc, and sparkling wines packaged in cans!

But, quite frankly themost incredible event of the evening (at least for the wine hedonist in me) was the importer Old Bridge Cellars’ gathering of Australia’s d’Arenberg wines hosted by Winemaker Chester Osborn. In celebration of d”Arenberg’s 100th anniversary, they offered library wines and a chance to taste through the new “Amazing Sites” Collection (14 single site Shiraz and Grenache wines). There’s just too much to go into here. Suffice it to say I was blown away by the breadth and depth of quality on display. I hope to write more about these amazing wines later.

The Classic provided me many other prospects for discovery available at the Classic. Next week I will share more incredible tasting experiences in Aspen, this time outside of the Grand Tasting Tent.